Quentin Jarrell

Here's the motor in case people missed it. I wasn't happy with the durability of the black paint so I'll be going with black chrome or regular chrome dependant on price. I will also be adding a 10mm high chamfer and putting in (4) 10mm x 10mm cooling vents down the pole similar to what JBL started doing a few decades ago. I'm still gathering final prices but the 18" will be at or right under $390 ON A 18 BASKET ON A 10 BASKET PURE COPPER FLATWIND COILS

Standard overhung. I will not be offering any MMAG with standard baskets and softparts. The geometry is not good enough for a ultra high xmax or SQ sub. In my opinion anyway. The problem is the clearance between the spiders and body. Because the spider pack is so thick the cone body rides on it causing the coil to offset. This sub for example sees an offset of 6mm. In order to correct it I'll be offseting the coil 6mm. You notice this a lot on big 10'' subs Not a big deal and no one one would even know if I didn't say anything but I don't thing it's acceptable on a "high end" line like the MMAG will be. Also I don't want to design a motor around a cone or basket. Nor do I want to stick the same motor on a 12 as a 10 or a 15. The MMAG will be done right. I have set goals. For example (numbers are rhetorical) I want a 12" sub to handle 2,500 rms, with 70mm one way xmax that will have an f3 of 27hertz in c4 enclosure of 1.5 cubic feet. So every part for that particular sub in mind from the motor to handle the moving mass down to the correct geometry and weight of the dust cap.

Current small signal parameters are as followed. I plan on doing a little modifications on the motor's internals that will decrease BL a tad. I got a 70% bl xmax of 27.8 so I'll be making the coil a few mm longer to get it to 32 mm xmax. So finial parameters will change but I really just wanted to see how close SpeaD was to Klippel and to verify that the Magnitizer used was fully charging the magnets. For right now I'm happy with the motor and will order the production run tomorrow. RE 1.5 FS 34.36 HZ MMS 347.36 G MMD 341.503 G CMS .044 MM/N KMS 22.69 N/MM BL 16.96 MOTOR FORCE FACTOR 191.76 QMS 7.439 QES .463 QTS .436 VAS 15.03 L SD 490.87 CM^2 XMAX 27.8MM LE 1.79 MH SPL 85.3 DB

Build a platform that will fit fully and snuggly between the rear wall and the box. Remove the four or six bolts that hold the bed and slide it back. Predrill the truck rear wall for 8 or 10 3/8" bolts. Use lag bolts and flat washers to secure the platform to the truck. Pre drill 8 or 10 holes in the back of the box. Slide the box in and use lag bolts and flat washers to secure the box to the panel. This way you don't have to worry about getting behind the box to tighten a nut.

In laymans terms it will give you better output o over a broader range.

Im not exactly sure how much as far as port acceleration. (I will be doing Klippel work with different sized ports on high output sub's next spring). But for example my spider pack is roughly 750 grams at one mm. 18,000 grams at 15mm. And about 60,000 grams at 30 mm. So in terms of the amount of force to accelerate the airspring to xmax it increased greatly when compared to small signal parameters.

There is one problem with calculating port Mach with power input like WinIsd does. Nearly all subs now a days use progressive spiders.

Been in the hospital from Monday till Thursday due to some complications from complex Migraines and some other stuff they are still looking at. The doctors said I can't drive for another two weeks and I'm getting a little bored laying in the bed so if you need any help with a box, drawing a sketch-up, a cut list, ect let me know.

K, I gotta see an oncologist and an optimologist today so I'll work on it tonight.

I ain't gonna be responsible for it sounding like shit. (especially since I'm doing it for free). Figure that out and I'll work it up and sketch it fir you.

I'd contact Kevin S. I don't even want to understand the thought process behind manufacture's specs. I do however have a firm grasp on enclosure design and cabin gain. And if those sub's were in my car I'd rather the the 1db gain from 34-50 hertz with an f3 of 29hz versus a loss of 1db gain in the playable range and a f3 of 27hz. Which you will more than likely have your subsonic filter set no lower than 30 hertz anyhow.

Give me all the details.

Yes sir ran in pairs. No sadly I've used up all my vacation time for the year. I already scheduled a week off of the 15th to go to my cabin in gatlinburg before all this mess happened. I even had to cash in a little short term disability. Good news is doctors say I can go back to work on Monday.

Not a problem.

two pieces of 3/4 mdf 4 to 6 inches wide directly between the left sub and the middle sub and between the right sub and the middle sub. run the braces from the top to the bottom to keep the baffle from flexing. If you PM me your email address I can email the sketch up so you can get the measurements off all of the parts of the box.

1.8 cubic feet tuned to 35 hertz 37.5 square inches of port. id put two braces between the subs which i did not put in these drawings.

I'm still confused on what was being tested.

How's ur buddy's building skills? Do you want to 45 the corners and port angles. Or do you just want everything with straight corners so it's easy to build.

They are dc with a built in inverter. At least the 4 that I have that are about 15 years old.

The bit one would a hell of a lot easier to install

http://www.rane.com/me30s.html

Dsp?

Nonlinearities are caused from a tweeter placed infront of a midrange but tons of manufactures still make coaxials. I guess u just gotta pick ur pickle.

Ok repost ur max deminsions. And tell me how much room is between your max depth and the rear hatch. If it's a hatchback you will want to face the port rearward and the subs up.

You'd be in the 250 range. But you'd bet my quality is gonna be hard to beat as most anyone here would agree. But anywho, if it's a trunk car I'd put the port and subs on the same side.