Quentin Jarrell

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500-1-500-Watt-Amplifier/dp/B001P86SMK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1359234465&sr=8-1&keywords=3%2C500+watt+amp 6 of these would be a good buy if you had the room.

I'm in the middle of doing a wall with 6 li 15's D2. They will be going on two 20.1's at 1.33 final load on each amp. If you can find one large amp you can wire all 6 subs down to 1.33

Measuring tape ends are supposed to have slack to compensate for thickness so you can either hook or but the tape to what you are measuring. Verify that the t square is square. Most of the cheap ones that are riveted together aren't.

Toyota Celica 6th gen Ignition wire is blue with an orange stripe in the ignition harness

Yea, but before the amp. Between the headunit and sub amp. Verify with ddm but should be less than ~6 volts

You don't need a LOC. the signal from the head unit to the sub is small signal. But if you really want one PAC SNI-15 is the best cheap non adjustable ones around.

And on another note some smart ass at dodge decided to make the rear speakers wires and the airbag wires the same colors. I had an installer snip a pair in the kick panel of a brand new caravan because he was too lazy to pull the rear quarter panel to bypass the amp. Let out every damn airbag on the passenger side. dash, roof, and seats. Brand new dealership vehicle was totaled with 5 mile on it.

pucking chevy, they don't know how to correctly name an accessory wire. Gotta watch that test light too. I've personally seen a data bus system fry.

I don't mean wires in the ignition harness. I mean the actual "ignition" wire.

Of course it cuts off when cranking. it's attached to an accessory wire. As already stated the only wire besides constant that remained powered when cranking is an ignition wire. what vehicle is it.

got a few supplies in

Damn near everyone

Got the box in. Seats are in their complete rear position.

Even better. Go there with a certified check and tell them you want to test drive it for the weekend. This is the purpose of program cars. I have never purchased a new car without testing a program vehicle for a few days.

Money and credit talks. Go down to the dealership with the intent to buy and tell them you want to test drive for the weekend. If the dealers wants your business they'll give it to you.

Google ohm's law.

<--- has never met a redneck with a $1200 coffee grinder or a $600 juicer who eats miso soup. <--- also currently lives deep in redneck territory. What about a redneck with a $1200 grill and a $600 AK? Wait, shit. Hell with the AR. It's the redneck with the MCMillan 50 cal that you have to worry about.

A literal drive through liquor store.

Picked up the batteries and got a little work done on the box.

Persistence, hard work, and determination always pays off

Download WinIsd to model your box. It comes with a tutorial. And they have a forum. Use the calculators on the12volt.com For port area and length.

You DO NOT want a bandpass box. You will be 1/4 to 1/2 octave lower f3 with a ported box.

No, if the car has an external factory amp then the factory output wires are low level. If not then they are high level. He didn't mean that it actually would have RCA ends. The loc basicall turns a high level (50 watts) signal to low level (5 watts). So if the car has an external amp all you would have to due is solder rca's to your headunit outputs and go directly to the amp.

I hope that was sarcasm.