imhungnurnot

hell yea.. it looks like a freakin mushroom when i play hoods run down by lil wyte!!

Ha by the way the front of this box looks like a DA*M headboard off a bed!!!! With that said. It also follows the contour of the dash beautifully!!!!!!!

I have a Fi Q 15 with BP power in about a 5 cuft box. 3.5 for the sub and the rest is displacements for sub and port. I have the box tuned to 31hz. I read the recommendations for the sub off of this forum and it says about 12-16 square inches of port area per cubic foot of volume. So that would translate from 42in-56in squared of port cross section and i have about 48 inches squared (its 13.75in W x 3.5in H x 36in L) and not very much air is moving through the port and it is not very loud. Maybe it needs more break in time? Thanks

I tore it down and re ported it to be at about 33Hz with 3.5 net volume with 14.75 cubic inches of port area per cubic foot of net volume. Sounds beautiful on the low end but a little harsh on the higher side. Tearing the face of that box off was rather interesting!!! ha By the way the white line of caulk was where the first port was and i took off a little bit of air space due to the smaller port.

A buddy of mine has a Bl 12 in his C/K single cab as a console box. The sub is acutally a SX/BL hybrid but it still knocks. Ha it makes his speedometer jump to about 15 mph when its in park! ha. Hope you have the same success!

A good calculator is a free download called Winisd Pro Alpha. http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?download=winisd I only use it to get a port length though. You have to lay out your box and calculate everything else like sub/port/bracing displacement. It was explained to me that subtracting or adding port length for "end correction" doesn't make any difference because you're also subtracting or adding to your internal volume by changing the overall volume of the port. Check your PM To tell the truth when i was thinking about it in my head i realized that about the end correction. I don't have any new messages. What do you mean?

Alright. But what formula did you use to get that length? Is there a good online calculator where you can plug in the variables and will be acurate or am i better off using my graphing calculator with the formula that i've been using? Well BKOLFO4 seems to believe in it. Maybe this is true when one wall of the port is actually a wall of the box? I mean if JL has it on their site i would think it has some truth to it. I mean if you don't take it into acount it'll only throw off your tuning by about .5 hz. So maybe that why people say it is BS. Well i'm going to see if i can get the top of that box off without damaging it too much and take the port out and cut it to length. So this should make it move more air throughout the port? Thanks

I'm still learning how to use Google Sketch Up but i have a basic model of the box on there and im trying to figure out how to "take a picture" of the box so i can put it up here. But I wasn't sure about the end correction wether i was suppose to add or subtract that. Thanks, i'm gonna try to figure out that program and get a pic up here!

no, that would translate to 60-80 sq. in. of port area and your problem is probably going to be the length of the port....seems a little long for 31hz tuning? what formula did you use for calculating port length? How? 13.75 x 3.5 = 48.125 I used the formula off of JL's website. Where Av is the cross-sectional area of the port (in square inches), Lv is the length of the port (in inches) and Vb is the enlcosure's net volume (in cubic inches). I ended up with about 34.25 port length.. Then on jl's site it talks about end correction and it says that if you use a side of the actual box as a side of the port like most people do you are supposed to half of the Height to the Length. My height in this case was 3.5 and i added 1.75 (half of 3.5) to 34.25 equaling 36 inch length..... so im not sure.. Im pretty good with math so i don't think i made a math error.. double check if you think i did. Thanks

I read somewhere in the forum that the Fi X would be rolled on to another company for production and i am just curious where they are because i think that i'm gonna have to replace one of my own soon. Thanks!

Sorry for the noob question. But can any mono amp be strapped? and if so does that cut the stable ohm load in half? Thanks

Hey, i have two autotek mm amps. Both of them have "balanced line inputs." The plug in for this looks similar to a s-video plug. In my manuals it says that the balanced inputs accept line level balanced from 0.4v to 18 volts. Also that the XX-BLD can be used as a line driver. I cannot find the "XX-BLD." And also every line driver that i view only has rca outputs and not the plug that is similar to the s-video plug. I've never used a line driver before but i'd like to. And i have an Alpine 9855 2004 model with 4V pre-outs. Can anyone help? Thanks!

Its all in the title.. How do the mean machines run at 0.67ohms if they can at all? THANKS

I'm looking for a 12'' subwoofer to work well in a .7 to 1 cuft enclosure before speaker displacements. Getting about 1000RMS. I listen to a lot of 80% rap and 20% rock and possibly some techno here and there. I was aiming for a Fi Q 12 but i was told that there are subs around that work really well in small sealed enclosures. I want it to be as loud as possible. I also have had a RE SX 12 in a .6 sealed box after displacements. It did really well and sounded clean but it got pretty warm. I'm just exploring my options. Any feedback on woofers is greatly appreciated! Thanks

Well im in a single cab with a bench seat. I'd like to pull the bench out and replace them with bucket seats. Then build a ported box for one 12 from the back wall to the dash but im having trouble getting hold of a set that will match my dark red/maroon interior. I can build a box to put behind the seat but then i have issuses with sub depth and sub excursion because i don't want to ride on the steering wheel. The depth of 5.75 of my Fi X 12's work out nice but they aren't as loud as i'd like. I know i could fit a deeper 10 inch woofer behind the seat because of being able to position the sub lower on a wedge box. Only thing with this is that im concerned with the sound of a 10 inch woofer. To say that you're concerned with the sound of a 10" woofer... is well wrong. Please tell me what difference a 10 vs a 12 will be. basically what I'm getting at is, as long as you build a proper box, a 10" woofer will have just as much output as any other size woofer. Enclosure is KEY to getting excellant sound and volume from your woofer. Build the box wrong and I'll beat it with a chitty ebay 8" in a correct box. I see... thanks for your input. I'm new at all of this!

Well im in a single cab with a bench seat. I'd like to pull the bench out and replace them with bucket seats. Then build a ported box for one 12 from the back wall to the dash but im having trouble getting hold of a set that will match my dark red/maroon interior. I can build a box to put behind the seat but then i have issuses with sub depth and sub excursion because i don't want to ride on the steering wheel. The depth of 5.75 of my Fi X 12's work out nice but they aren't as loud as i'd like. I know i could fit a deeper 10 inch woofer behind the seat because of being able to position the sub lower on a wedge box. Only thing with this is that im concerned with the sound of a 10 inch woofer.

Simply as the title has stated. Scott do you have enough parts to build another X 12 for me? or a recone for my current sub? or possibly just a dustcap and some tensil so i could fix the sub myself? What would be the cost of these different things if they are even available? Thankss!

I have two Fi X 12's and the tensil leads slap really bad. I have about 450watts on each.. i know the RMS is 300 watts.. but the sub is still putting out clean sound other than the leads... i noticed that the tensil's aren't aligned with the pad on the back of the cone. if i were to relocate the pads do you think this would solve the problem? THANKS

I looked into it further with free air testing.. the actual pads are loose and are making the noise. I superguled them back on. What would be the best? a type of epoxy? or supergule?

Each on is sealed in a 1.23cuft after displacements. They are being powered by an autotek mm1000.1. They are dual 4 ohm subs ran into 1 ohm. If you believe moving the pads will help, then i'd be more than happy to try it because they get pretty loud for 300rms. I much rather its frequency response over Fosgate P2 12's. I out beat one of them in a ported box from Fosgate against one of my X's in a sealed box!!!!

I have an alpine cda-9855 and i has the option to use a 7 band graphic or a 5 band parametric.. what is the difference between the graphic and parametric??

I cannot port the middle because this is in a single cab truck with a bench seat.. but that would be the best way

Hey, i recently built a box for my 2 Fi X 12's, it is a ported wedge box 4.37 cuft after port and sub displacements. I have a 4 inch ,"precision port", flare port and is 6 inches deep. The problem is that the sub closer to the port moves more and im thinking that i could get more out of the subs if they both had the same movement. A little confused.. i was told that it would be louder if i would have divided the box and but two separate ports, one on each side rather than one on the passenger side. By the way i have them on a Autotek MM1000.1D

13 inches from end of port to edge of basket.. i'd like to take a picture to show you the shape of the box.. but i currently do not have my camera with me.. but its a wedge box the subs are on the front and the port is in the side

Is there any way to fix this? i was thinking about fitting a baffle between the port and the sub closer to the port? think this will be affective?