shizzzon

This is in the pre-stages... about 75% of everything i need is being sent from everywhere and will be arriving next week... This build might\will progress til the mid to more likely the end of MAY before it's completed. For a teaser pic, this is to keep the voltage up in the back-

if i'm understanding this right- This guy assumes the more a speaker moves, the louder it is and hitting xmax or xmech, whatever is it's loudest point possible... If that's true, hahahahahahahaha. The end. No but really, in spl competitions, subs do not move no where near as much as they do when playing music but "burps" are louder than music... Maybe he should figure out why that is.

you can charge them at 24v if you want.. but from assuming the experience in this thread.. i wouldn't suggest going beyond XS's recommendations. however, for normal type charging, if you ever want\need to purchase a battery charger, Sears' Die Hard charger is awesome They sell it for $90 2A trickle 15A slow 40A fast 125A engine start Can charge virtually all battery technologies except Li type batteries. Charges at a constant 14.7v once it's done exciting the battery. Load tests the battery to make sure it can accept an initial charge. Will auto trickle + shut off when not needed to run if you are away.

and there's a lot to learn then if you think that's the limit... Just like anything else, it's how you charge them, there is no one specific limit.

i guess good news is you didn't download my music, lol...

here is the problem- the 8s never gave any Ts parameters... the dayton 12s gave me something and honestly. if it was ONLY between the 2 choices, i'd go with the 12s. But remember- both choices(assuming the 8s aren't epic based, lol), aren't comparable to car audio choices out there.... Of course, for the money, i know why you are eyeing these. Keep the power around 1000w or less for either option and be good to go.

lol... i guess i can..

loos like he was running.... away..

ok, well looks like charging voltage isn't an issue.. but i'm tellin you, i know some people personally and have read many many times where optimas are not very reliable. And performance wise.. optima isn't top notch but that wouldn't mean anything to you in your scenario. So i guess i can say this.. Keep the optima but have some spare money set aside for when you need a new battery.

I am curious as to what causes you to say that. I have yet to see or hear where optima actually lasts in someone's vehicle that is into car audio. Also, I believe the charging requirements for optima is stricter than xs so if he ever got a high output alt that charged closed to 15v, that could be another problem.

optima is in it's own class really... Optima eh... the end.

lol, dont ever just throw away an alt. IF the case is good.. it can ALWAYS be rebuilt...

hmm.. i'm gonna go out on a limb and say deka, kinetik, power surge, odyssey, xs power and any other 12v agm battery that is built for car audio use "MIGHT" be ok to run together.... the problem is using different technologies and capacity in the mix. Now, all the batts above may use the same technology, but in tests, they are far different in performance! And even then.. different capacities play a part too... I wouldn't do it personally ever.. If there would be a problem, it would take a couple years or more to see it arise unless you are very careless and never check your voltage every once in a while.

but a user shouldn't have to do that.... I know one alternator may work for many vehicles but perhaps some vehicles need different size pulleys? This is the thing with DC- DC actually tests their alts on the vehicle so they know what pulley goes on there. I'm not saying Mechman doesn't... But on my car.. i put a hellafied load on it one time (over 1000A) and it only did 79A HOT at idle when it was rated to do 150A COLD at idle) After looking at the spec sheet they used to supply with their alts, i noticed the crank to alternator pulley ratio was NOT the same as my idle rating! Their idle rating assumed i would be idling at 800rpm.. I idle at ~650rpm... It's peak was rated at 258A cold and i was able to get 220 somethin amps at 4,000rpm Engine, clearily high enough for max output. Now, that 220 somethin sounds right for HOT rating but idle rating was way off.. hence, wrong pulley for me too. My alt ended up burning out the rectifier because i had to charge 3 near dead batts or else i wasnt gettin home... then a week later the alt smoked out... Clearily, my fault, but.. there are some other alts out there that have temp sensing in them that prevent such things from failing... And the fact they are built with dual rectifiers.... Think overbuilt out your ass.. If a user was purchasing an alt JUST to supply power for what they already have.. then Mechman would be fine... But somebody like me running over 20kw and can only fit 1 alt in the car and lots of batts.. i need something that can take abuse without failure.... Different applications call for different equipment.. Hence i pay lots more for something else because i have no other choice.

honestly, i would do the following- Get rid of the capacitor. Sell your optima and replace it with that XS batt. Then.. purchase another xs batt, let's say D1200 and put that in the back, or a Deka 9A31, or a Kinetik HC1800 or higher. Do not mix optima and xs together..

Just made a Caribou Lou... it's chat time.

stefanhinote and shogen... Are we all seein the same thing as to how you all came up with that magical guess? PS - along with a followup box design?

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/930653-truck-wont-go-into-park-help.html

here's a tip- The whole country is in the process of recovering from a heat wave... I would wait and see how your setup does at the end of the week. Every summer, i have to open my car up for a couple minutes and let the car cool down before i start it so my amps aren't in protect. That's typical 140F in the car trapped. so.. if it's still going in protect this weekend AFTER letting your car vent out from being in the sun, take a pic of where the amp(s) are so we can get a visual on some recommendations...

first off, contact alt specialist about if u can put a smaller pulley on it. IF that doesn't work, rebuilding internals of another's alt is limited to the case volume internally and how things are setup in there.

if u want higher voltage than 14.2, then yes it should, but if 14.2v isn't normal range for that alt, i wouldnt use the vcm. assuming u are using the correct pulley and belt is tight, vcm would help.

try this- Run speaker wire to ONLY one terminal set on sub, not both. Don't ask me why right now.. just try it, doesn't matter which terminal set, just choose one side and run it. Play something at a moderate volume, just nothing full blast. Put your hand on the subs cone. Be looking for bass or movement from the cone. Make sure the amp is not in protect when doing this.

ok, let's go over everything here... Your sub doesn't play but both coils read fine and they both pop on battery so sub works... Your rcas have been tested by different cable and source altogether and still no sound. Your amp has been swapped out with another amp and same thing... HOWEVER... you have been stating that ur sundown amp has been going into protect... When you did amp swap, did the other amp go into protect any?

yes, that's to prevent turn-on pop.