shizzzon

i use general purpose aluminum, 6063. I've built several distro blocks out of it using 3\8" bolts fine threaded and torqued down til the allen wrench started twisting and never had a problem.

I believe i have your answer! You know that in a vehicle you have cabin gain. Many vehicles may have more than 1 peak, but that doesn't mean each peak is just as strong as the next.. Anyways, when you had it in series, let's assume the playable range was wide open from 30-70hz. Your vehicle, for example, peaks at 50hz... Well, you then wire to 1ohm and set crossover points to control mechanical movement.. here is where it gets interesting- For one, we do not know how the box is tuned in correlation with "if" it's even intended to peak with vehicle! Anything above and below tuning is going to make the speaker move more... hint hint.... So, assumingly, you have narrowed down it's mechanical range to really only play around tuning OR just in a range where it doesn't move as much period. This would never imply this is at or near peak output for your setup so can only assume the narrowed bandwidth that is set now is centered in an area that is not loud for your vehicle and you have cut out the area(s) that will get very loud.

so in terms of mpg to cost, is ethanol saving you money over just regular gas?

i'm a noob at air anything suspension. IS that safe or just as reliable as a full air strut? There has to be some sort of disadvantage of doing this or else we'd all do it for only $150 per wheel, lol. Is the impact this bag holds put any strain on the stock strut?

negative.. can you remove the meter off the cap? AQ2200d @1ohm on 70a alt is bad enough.. adding an extra batt in the back is like a bandaid to a problem... You install that cap in there.. you might as well just add some more amps too because that's the route you are headed down.

And make sure you guys watch this video... This will explain why or at least how i will be able to go about building a lot of this wall using only 1 layer of wood successfully.. Of course, not all sides will be one layer but most will when i have the opportunity to save on weight and bracing techniques. http://s303.photobucket.com/albums/nn147/shizzzon/?action=view&current=video-2011-06-12-17-07-18.mp4

The main point is this- I like a challenge... because it's never been done before... And no.. i'm not gonna try and put 8 18s in there, lol.. IT's gotta be within reason.

ok man.. i'm gonna need that rear suspension kit ordered asap... Air Lift Part #- 75687 Let me know if you can get an entire kit too... Entire kit is under name Easystreet. It's for Scion tC.

the interior is\will be covered with plastic sheeting.. There is no covering yet because there isn't a mess yet, hehe. It's funny.. I just got done measuring the vertical clearance to see if 2 18s stacked on top of each other will clear the transmission hump because 2 of the 4 18s will be directly above the hump.... From outer rim to outer rim... I have exactly 0" left over to work with, lol.... so i gotta do some sorta trickery to get those 2 to fit just right.

i had started on it a while back then stopped for quite a while because of the heat.. I got all my equipment in now except for air suspension but i can order that whenever.... I'm outside right now measuring some things on the headliner so i can stay within rules for a wall in most competitions. you wanna see crammed to the max.. tight as hell fitting.. you'll see it for sure in this build.

I'll try to keep you in mind. I go to Ohio every now and then. I usually go to florida too. I think, depending on time and route, i might stop off and meet bassahaulic and definitely JBLcamry since he stays 10min from where i go in FL, hehe.

ok, lol.. i'll go ahead and tell you no i wont..lol so go ahead and get that expectation out of your head right now, hehe. This isn't the vehicle for that accomplishment.. some people on this forum know what i have planned in the future but that's another build...

I had to cut back on weight by a few hundred pounds.. There is one other person in FL that has more weight than i have and is doing fine in his tC with LESS mods than i will have so i'm good to go.

i have done the research on this for quite a while in the past.. 12v batts are cheaper and stronger than 16v. It's really that simple. IF XS could sell the XP1000 for $169 per batt.. well, hehe, then we'd be onto something. Look at it from this point- D3400 vs D1600 again. IF you really think the D1600 is stronger, look as to why? You think because it rests at 17.3v that it's god? Because it's ampacity is smaller, it will drop voltage a LOT lower than the D3400 will. How low? I don't know exactly, BUT, you also got to remember this- The D1600 would drop lower %-wise but still output less current at the same time. What if we had 10 D3400s and 1 D1600 The D1600 is still exhibiting higher voltage.. but way less current. This is how i compare batts of different voltages... I take the rest voltage(2.16v x cell quantity) and multiply by the MA. So, here is the following on that- D3400= 43230 (13.1x3300) D1600= 41520 )17.3x2400)

i do not personally know anyone who has damage but have been warned that many vehicles do not want any charge above 16v, that's why i had always been leary.

Gonna see if I can ask this right. No matter the 12v battery, why are the cells in side of a battery typically rest at 2.17v? What is so special to make this common, yet generic at the same time? Why do we not increase these just a hair, like 2.3v per cell? Why has something like this not been done? I do not understand the build of a battery obviously. @2.3v per cell, we would have a 13.8v battery capable of safely charging around 15.3v. Reason i bring this up is the 14v battery seems like a trial and error install in terms of it "may" work but if it doesn't.. your electronics will get damaged. That's not acceptable so why hasn't\wasn't a less severe approach going from 13v to 15.2v at rest created yet.. by anybody? IT's not about just XS Power but the entire battery business as a whole... Why are all agm cells stuck at 2.17v for? (for the most part)

I have noticed the weather has finally decided to start cooling down some here so the build will resume very soon!

using a cap is like playing football without any gear on. Sure it works as in it's still alive but unless your system is strong enough without it, something will die from lack of gear.

you know for n64 games, you should just use n64 emulator Project 64 and record thru pc that way. million times better quality.

yep.. those instructions are for those who don't understand how it works so they don't kill the battery. If you know what the limitations are physically... then like i said, you cna charge WAY higher.. but i wouldn't recommend you doing it because you do not understand. It would involve tampering with a charger, not something you could just buy off the shelf and charge higher... If you are wondering, it's training a battery. It's complicated, but not hard and will kill the battery if not done properly.

sounds like a loose wire was arcing.. that's why it's burnt to shit. Hopefully you cut that part off and secured it very well this time.

Blame it on me.....lol IF you have a dmm go measure the coils. If you do not, now is the time to go buy one.

because most amps nowadays are non-regulated, that means the amp will make more power with higher voltage... And that's why... The amp has some basic limits- AC voltage output can only go so high before it clips... AC current will output the same as AC voltage if outputting at a real 1 ohm load. The amp will draw what it needs to current-wise to produce a certain amount of power... But nothing changes here, if the actual load is below 1 ohm, current output will be at a dangerous level. Risk frying things from moving too much current inside the amp. So.. from what i'm getting at is- Running a higher DC voltage input at your amp will make it more efficient, but doesn't make it magically stronger over a 14v system. Now, if we were comparing daily driving at 10v vs 16v.. then yea, that's different. However, blabbing about all that.. a good electrical system can run many of today's amps at 0.5ohms. Not saying you will be ok because i don't know how you will monitor your setup.. But sundowns, AQs, Crescendos, DCs, American Bass VFLs- they all are built strong enough to withstand that stress... BUT it depends on how you stress it! Take me for example. I run at 0.5ohms but i do not crank it for more than a few seconds at that level. I don't want the actual load to be pegging at or below 1ohm for any measurable length of time. So.. if you want to wire below the stable load- I only do it for competition and loud demoing. For only daily driving, it's pointless. Wiring low is for numbers. Wiring normal is for enjoyment.

technically they are already grounded together so i wouldnt see how you would get ground loop. Doing this only greatly helps sustain voltage in the rear.

The new build log thread will be made either end of this weekend or early next week.... The subs are on their way!