shizzzon

yea but honestly.. out of all the limited help that some of us is actually providing, i see no evidence of him actually taking our advice. So i'm done with this thread.. I can only offer advice, it's up to those to use it.

according to Solidworks' website it passes.. and not the minimum requirements either.. the recommended requirements.

Neither of those have a dedicated graphics card = fail. You need a dedicated card to do gaming. No.. not if you do Cloud Gaming which is what i was talking about earlier. It is a very nice technology that allows a user to save money on the requirement of upgrading hardware over time to keep up with gaming technology. You could a laptop purchased 5 years ago with this service and 10 years from now, it would still be plenty fast.. Minus the requirement for Solidworks... I'm money conscious, just trying to find the best deal for the price.

uh yea... especially if they will let you have it tested imo, if it passes AZ's test and when charged up can rest at no lower than 12.9v, then that's pretty good.

This computer passes all requirements for Solidworks 2012- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834214412 If it runs glitchy, be sure to upgrade video driver to newest version when using Solidworks. if you want a little more speed and still under $800, check this out- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834214415 Core i7 line, pretty nice!

I had not given any advice, so what advice is there to take? I simply stated I had a similar problem with a similar Head unit, I had taken it out inspected it, re grounded it and made sure my connections were secure and nothing changed so I moved to a different head unit which solved my problem. I had called Kenwood and they said they couldn't do anything for me to help to solve the issue. Kenwood had suggested sending it to an authorized repairer, I declined seeing how I received the head unit for free. I wasn't referring you to, i was referring to the installer. That was taken WAY out of context.

did buying a new unit fix your problem? im contemplating bringing it back to where i bought it and trying to get a different/new one Yeah that's what I ended up doing, Mine would do it randomly just shut off then come back on a few seconds later. haha you got owned shizzzon. How did i get "owned" since you quoted someone else's problem and assumed that's the end all answer to the OP's problem. Common sense would say to inspect and attempt a fix rather than speculate and sit on your ass looking for a solution that people will spoon-feed it to you so you do not have to do nothing... I think from your own in-experience, your first post on SSA was owned.. By yourself.

yea, he's the one doin em, hehe.

whos that one guy on here? Bamf101 isn't it? Don't let him do it.. he freakin sucks at sketchup, lmao..

he suggested a new head unit just because you have symptoms of a bad ground connection? I wouldn't assume correct advice from him anymore.

i am familiar with Alpines as they also have a range of 0-35. When i set my Alpine up, it's set on volume 31 -3db test tones. Not until i reach volume ~23-25 does it really start to show signs of life... So it may be normal. The volume control may not be linear.

New suction cups - 15 Days left until group buy is over!

i would be checking the ground connection for the headunit.

Last year at Carl Casper 2010, after i did my run i had to replace my fusing.. In MECA, you run your class mostly with small fuses so it's normal to blow them. I ran ~1100A through 320A of fusing.. so they blew pretty quick. Well, in Carl Casper, you are not allowed to have your car on at anytime of the show! So after i did my run, i pushed my car back to it's parking spot.. Everything was quiet at this point... My dumbass completely forgot to turn the stereo off after i blew the fuses... It will still maxed out on a 50hz test tone on REPEAT... So.. i pop the hatch and prepare to put my daily driving fuses back on the block, one at a time. While holding the first fuse with set of pliers, i waited for it to spark.. It sparked, then i pulled back... thinking, huh, that was a pretty big spark... I put the fuse back on again, BIG ass spark.. I didn't know why it sparked again so i thought i was just being a pussy so the third time i laid the fuse on there and when i did.. big mistake! Keep in mind it's dead quiet in the building right now.. When i lay the fuse on the fuse block, the fuse literally started to melt in front of my face when all of a sudden.. BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM! Filled the whole west wing of the expo center with 150+ before the fuse melted completely... Everybody turned around like.. wtf was that?

Anybody want a Sheenis? Come in the chat and get roasted

i got it now, kept screwin with me

And now a joke... How much blow can charlie sheen do? Enough to kill Two and a Half Men!

OK guys.. We have a minimum of 7 more Group buyers left before the Group buy expands... Hurry up and get in on this!

well, i can tell you this- if the meter was reading around 90db with ease then to 170, it has to be an off the shelf meter like a broadband rta with loose accuracy. There has never in the history of car audio been a setup capable of breaking a 170 with a street box, lol.... Not only that, but stock? No concrete.. no sealing of the doors(they wouldn't fall off for sure!)....

Ever sinced I changed my stock battery to a XS D1200, after a few days of the initial installation, been noticing the car is starting to take a hair longer to start... While working on the car today, i noticed right after i got done driving it.. it was reading 12.6v.. that's pretty low from just turning the car off. So i clamped the battery cable, reading 0.4A draw... hmmm... Pulling fuses under the hood and came up with this- AM2 fuse - (according to forums, controls Starter, fuel injectors, etc....) this fuse is pulling 0.15A DCC fuse - I do not know what this is but it is said dealers pull this fuse to prevent battery discharge if car is left unnattended for days. This fuse under the hood is rated for 30A, It is pulling 0.25A .... why? I then recharged the battery to 13.1v rest. I reconnected ground, remeasured power cable, still pulling 0.4A. I went and clamped every cable i could find under the hood and inside the car under the dash and couldnt find ANY draw... I then went back under the hood to reclamp battery power cable... and there now there is NO draw, wtf? So lets recap- Got home at noon, measuring voltage drop on starting battery from noon to 5pm and constantly reading 0.4A draw. Charged battery back up at 830pm. Clamped and still reading 0.4A draw. About 10min later, reclamped and there is no draw.... So it went from 5hrs of draw before i disconnected it to 10min of draw and stopped... I'm very curious as to why i have a draw. I have a remote start\alarm installed by shop. I couldn't get to the power cable of the brain or else i would have clamped it. Only thing i can find out online is typical parastic draw on chryslers is 0.035A.. So either my car is very inefficient electronically or both fuses are drawing more than normal. Anything else i can look for or do before i just throw in some more batts to compensate?

OK, i'm going to be the first one to say this so i don't feel retarded.... First off- I FOUND THE PROBLEM... Second- I'm somewhat stupid.. but not completely.. i have excuse! It's clowning time.. School me on my unawareness of stupidity 101. The reason the car is pulling 0.4A is.......... Drum roll... I had the doors open...... Now, before you start laughing, have excuse- I removed every light in the headliner and I figured it wouldnt pull any current... Well, apparently this is what's going on - This part is interesting to know- The computer takes about 5-10minutes to shut off after car has been shut off. If the door is opened when car is off, the AM2 fuse AND DCC fuse will both start moving a total of 0.4A through the fuse panel... The AM2 fuse is more than likely controlling the light around the ignition module letting me know where the keyhole is and any relays that may get turned on by having the door open. The DCC fuse is still a mystery to me as to what exactly it controls but because it's 30A, i'm sure it controls a lot but since this fuse becomes active when door is open.. it's doing something. When i shut the door, it takes ~25 seconds for the DCC fuse to disable current draw. After ~25seconds, the current draw is back to 0.15A (AM2 fuse). After about another 5-10seconds (total of 30-35seconds from time door is shut) all current that is measurable through an Ammeter has disappeared. So, i figured it wouldnt draw that much current when i work on my car with the doors open if i didnt have any lights on but i guess sensors\relays and dash lights alone are enough to effect battery! So from now on, i'll be pulling these fuses out when i work on my car so i don't have to disconnect the battery when what i'm working on is not electrical anyways. So, interesting lesson about newer cars.

The Android application is ready for download! This is the link for the APK file for android use- SPL-Lab Android Software v1.0 Currently supports Bluetooth Wireless Meter Up to 2 Bluetooth Wireless Meters capable in Realtime\peak hold or 30sec averaging. You will need at least one of these meters to proceed into the software beyond the main menu. Only 21 days left before Group Buy is over!

for the price, get the Audiopipe 1000w mini amp for ~$100. it's called somethin like ASM1300 or somethin like that. Better than what you are looking at.

i'm in the chatroom with no internet access.. help!