shizzzon

maybe you should find out what part of the amp is blowing... IF it's the input side, i would be either getting a new headunit or grounding the rcas on the back of your headunit.

Ya heard.... Ya heard... Ya heard... Naw what i mean? Shit son.. Ya Heard... Ya Heard.. Naw whut i'm sayin? NO! That's what im sayin....

FLMAO!! that girl judge is like AHHHHHHH EWWWWWW!

man.. i dont know man.. That's why i'm a member and not a master of wisdom... Luckily bromo came in here and gave me some wisdom to get me back on track.

i'm assuming u are going to clamp the jumper cable end onto the existing cable that is still ran into the amp?

no because if there is a short after the fuse block, using jumper cables with BYPASS the empty fuse holder and run a direct short to the battery

damnit.. Ok, well pull the fuse , measure resistance. IF it reads near 0, then u still have that problem..

are we talking about the same thing? We are measuring DC, not AC.

because if the break is before the fuse, then measuring with the fuse out would read right.... Putting fuse in allows the whole length of power cable to be measured. and u say power applied to circuit.... We already know the amp is not comming on... so nothing to worry about on top of proper fusing is being used at the same time.

so you put the probes on the power \ ground terminal on the amp... and you got 0.6 ohms? YOU HAVE A SHORT IN YOUR POWER WIRE! You may have already fried it... It won't come on because your power wire is grounding out somewhere. You need NOT replace the amp with anything until you find the problem.

i will help you. What web browser are you using and what version is it?(go to help, hit About...)

take a multimeter, connect probe to power and ground terminal on amp. Put the fuse back in the power line or switch the circuit breaker on, whatever u have in there now and measure OHM value set to DC. If you get a near 0ohm reading once the power line is activated to the battery again.. STOP and remove fusing or shut off circuit breaker.

Here it is- THE BIG SECRET... You think there are people building your equipment? You think CNC machines have anything to do with the build process? Think again.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6CnQsSPOgg

simple- find the size of your crank... Whatever that size is, then it's common sense to know the pulley ratio size of Crank to Pulley on the alternator... IE- if the alt pulley was 44mm and the crank was 176mm, then you would have a 4:1 ratio. That would mean your engine could be revved up to 6,000rpm before problems could occur.. not will, but possible.

well, most alts can handle up to 24,000rpm so i guess rule of thumb is do not exceed that.. ever.

"next week" can be up to nov. 26th.. just be patient again, lol

Yea but not for 30 seconds! User just has a window of 30seconds to post their best score... On a meter, 2-3 full seconds is PLENTY to get maximum pressure reading. When running a lot more power than recommended, the shorter the better.. but that's trial and error to figure out yourself. There are only 2 things a user needs to control when burping- Mechanical movement and Thermal environment. Thermal is easy, do a burp, should be fine as long as it's 2-3 seconds only (let cool down after the burp) Mechanical- do not let the sub bottom out, do not let it leave the gap, if your motor doesn't have a pole vent, you may blow your dustcap off(if this happens, replace dustcap and drill small holes in it next time) I know you probably haven't heard about hardly any of this.. welcome to competing,

I hope so, lol.. that would be so ass-backwards, lol.. Might as well have some TSNS subs in there, haha...

not if each is reading 1.5 YOU ARE MEASURING DC, NOT AC! If both coils read 1.5, then series would be 3.0, parallel would be 0.75 You cannot measure impedance like you can resistance, it has to be calculated.

your measuring DC which is resistance... DCR is what you are measuring. The rating of the coil is rated as impedance, which is AC. AC fluctuates, DC is constant. Impedance=AC Resistance=DC

only because you have it tuned to 40hz is the only reason why i will say it will "work"... Although.. i do not know if you are aware of how it will sound tuned like that though? You want a high tuning like that? You could always back it down to 3 drivers or hell, even 2 and tune lower and keep the same size box. You would lose a little in the high end above 50hz for the "SPL" you mention but for music, i believe it would be more appealing. Of course if you back it down to only 2 drivers, power needs to be attenuated.

OK! just makin sure for both you and others who know nothing about turbos.... Didn't want somebody seein your pics and go, Hey, i'm gonna go get a Turbo and some downpipes, etc.. and an intercooler and that's it, lol....

i hope u installed a LOT more with that turbo than what u r showing us.... Although u did say u have an intercooler and never showed us that, hehe. piggyback at least?, wideband O2?, A/F Gauge?, upgraded injectors?, using the right octane fuel?, wastegate?, BOV?, How much HP increase? safe on tranny? internal engine?

sounds like you've got the remote line connected to constant on and possibly rcas have a problem..

Well, from past experiences, video cameras suck at picture quality compared to dedicated picture cameras. Picture cameras are skilled enough now to take adequate video without problem.