shizzzon

All Your Bass Are Belong To TeamRamRod. He'll tell you

because clamped test do not consider how much distortion is in the signal. It is a LOT. And also, you will never get rated power from your amp when wired to it's lowest stable load rating.. I just made it more complicated for ya, Point is do not worry about power output, just worry about the effects of the power you are using.

how long do you play? if it's more than a burp off 20A fuse then u do NOT need a large motored sub for constant playback. Also, a small batt.. is this for space saving, weight, cost? XStatic makes small batts for high output but are very pricey. XS power comes next in line if u can fit little bit bigger batt in there.

me? i like terminals because it guarantees a solid connection for speaker wire.

the less breaks in a connection, the less resistance. the less resistance, the more potential power that can make it to the coil from the amp. Impossible to hear and damn lucky if ever picked up on a meter.

lmao stefan.. I should get direct lead horn tweeters and put them in a 4th order...

Better? eh.. I tell you what.. Stop putting the tech details up on a pedestal and just jump the gun and get somethin.. Theoretically, a 4" coil could handle more current than 3" coil which means more power, BUT.. the larger coil also requires more space in the motor.. and even better cooling based on potential current.. Look at how i'm stating this.. I make it sound like a 4" coiled sub has never been made.. but plenty have.. and it's capability is derived from it's tech specs... So to answer your question.. look for yourself... The N3 is a 3" coil and is rated for more than the SP4 !!! Uh oh.. violation of physics! Don't dig too deep into it..

These last several statements are too speculatory. If you want loud, durable, well built, etc... You can jump directly into the SSA Xcon or Zcon. They both are high quality, strong subs. You can also get some Fi SP4s.. DC's m2 line is great as well.. I do not touch PSI regardless of what i would want or need done... You have Fi and Mach5 that can do recones for many different brands and many internet brands offer their own recones as well.. So, you should be in good hands with all of the above choices I mentioned.

Does it have to be solid? I may know a few liquid amps.

i wouldnt use hurricane or tnuts when so clase to the mounting hole.. This is what i would do- And i've done this before.. and it is very strong! IF this doesn't work.. then you are doing it wrong... Take the sub out and seal all the holes are are not going to be using. Next, get some bolts. If you used single layer 3\4", i'd get 2" bolts and normal nuts are fine. Dump some Epoxy Resin into each bolt hole. Drive each bolt through the hole. Let bolts sit for 24hrs to cure. MAKE SURE all bolts are properly sticking up at the right angle or you'll never get your sub remounted! After 24hrs, drop sub over bolts very slowly. The resin will prohibit the bolts from ever turning while tightening the nuts up.

IT's workin fine over here. Try it now, everything should be fixed.

yep, couple yrs ago, my buddy broke a 150 in his truck with 2 on 6kw(i'm pretty sure he was still using 6kw at the time, do not know wiring load though)

for pure spl... type Rs are beast for the price

not computer literate(caps lock retard) doesnt speak english well.. can tell by his typing skills goes into 3rd person near the end and starts narrating mechanic POV Like alan said on Hangover 2, he's a Re-tard

I know it Man! I'm Smoke, bish!

measure voltage after playing for a while.. If your voltage is still consistent, then you are GOOD!

honestly, you did the measurements wrong... For one, you can't measure ground resistance the way you did.. You measured the resistance of the WIRE! How do you think you got a reading at all? 2nd, voltage at batt and amp will be consistent until you put a heavy load on electrical system for 10-60seconds. Once you do that, then measure voltage at batt then at amp... Without running dedicated grounds from front batt to rear, voltage drop potential is always high.. Unfortunately, you cannot run extra grounds without either a rear batt or some ground Point like a distribution block or something.

the best person to talk to about PCM controlled eletrical system is DC Power. They have helped out on many vehicles like this and can give advice on what you can do or can't do and why.

um... measure voltage when stereo isn't on for a while and see if it stays stationary for a decent amount of time. Damaged rectifier, damaged regulator is normal causes for increase in voltage.. Measure this with a DMM directly at the alternator's post, use alt casing, bracket, etc.. for ground. Monitor to see if your voltage is going up any just sitting there with truck on.

realy? i do not know anything about buying a warranty through them.. If you can, they better not charge anything if it needs service.

If you got the electrical it'll be fine, you can buy a 2 yr .5 ohm warranty from crescendo so I don't think it would hurt it. As of the BC line, Crescendo doesn't warrant below 1ohm.

This is because the XP line is more geared toward averaged consistent output vs the D line is more focused on preventing voltage from dropping as much as possible on large, quick current draw. IE- this is not to scale nor tested but just for your reference of illustration- Lets say we were burping a test tone for 2 second intervals. XP3000 vs D3100.. The D3100 would hold a slightly higher voltage.. how high? I do not know.. maybe 0.2-0.3v.. maybe, just a guess. However, if you were jamming all the time, the XP3000 would offer more consistent power output from the batt(s) because of it's higher aH value. But both batteries can be used in both scenarios, burps and daily driving.. The point of the two lines is to get the customer the best battery for the purpose being used.

if u do that.. u better bolt the shit out of it.. epoxy resin it in place as well..

because his sub is 500ft away from his amp...