shizzzon

if you set your gains with dmm with sub attached, you will probably get less power. If you set gains with dmm with no sub attached, depending on your electrical system, can cause your amp to clip due to low dc voltage.. It's complicated.. basically, i hate dmm tuning gains. Unless the manufacturer specifically told you what voltage to aim at, i dont trust it. Too many other variables at play.

setting your gains with a dmm is actually gonna cause you to get less than ideal power out of your amp. For the budget minded, get an APSM-1500. The best bang for your buck, 1500w amp for under $150 shipped at many places. AP has stepped up their game some recently and their amps are not overrated.

Sorry, i forgot to add this too- For processing, i'll be using a Memphis Audio 16-XO3 3way bandpassable crossover. I'm also going to be using the Soundstream XBP-10. This processor works wonders with people who use walls with a load of drivers on it. It's interesting that some company's such as Soundstream actually manufactured a device like this. They know what we need

Product list update- Got into a wall the other day with deciding on what to run and where to fit it before i accidentally build the wrong thing in the back.. Well, i now have the full equipment list taken care of. I will be posting pics up here tomorrow of what i've done recently... Equipment list- 4 CA 5500ds 4 DC XL 18s (0.5 2ohm) Front stage- 3 AP APSM-2125s (2 for midrange, 1 for tweeters) 4 8" PA mids. Brand is unknown at this time but not important right now. APSM amps will supply up to 800w for midrange. 3rd APSM amp will run 125wx2 to a pair of CA FT1 tweeters. I do not have pics of this yet because i need to order the motherload of aluminum but due to space constraints, i will need to reinforce the back of my wall in Aluminum. The back wall will then be anchored to my battery bank. The aluminum will be anchored to some steel runs on the battery bank to help hold it together. the battery bank area is a perfect fit for my 8 D1200s which allow no "wiggle" room, perfect for helping brace some massive amount of potential flex. the sides of the back part of the wall will be braced in 2x4s because i have the space for that. Pics to come tomorrow..

when u say amp wires.. i'm assuming you are measuring this directly at the amp. So, stock batt = 14.8v other front batt(d3400)= 13.8v amp in the back= 14.8v Your amp is grounded to frame of vehicle. Your amp's power cable is in a circuit with the alternator, the D3400 and the stock batt. this allows your amp to see 14.8v. For your D3400 not to see 14.8v, it must not be grounded to the frame at all... this is NOT ideal. I would ground the D3400 to the frame, possibly to the same point the alt's Big 3 ground point is for best location.

check fuse(s) on your front to rear power wire run. If it's not that, then it's this- You have what i try and preach to people 10,000x is we, car audio community, cannot just rely on the framework of a vehicle as the "perfect" ground. You are experiencing a full 1 volt drop from front to rear. You want to test this for free without installing anything? Get you a set of jumper cables. You need only use the ground side. Attach the ground clamp to ground post on D3400. Attach other end to ground post on stock battery, alt casingbracket or as close to the battery or alt ground as possible. Your voltage should instantly skyrocket. Ifwhen it does, you need to run a ground cable from front to rear of the stock batt to rear batt ground.

if each sub plays fine separately then there is a wiring issue

just dont go slammin on bass on 1 sub. Twice the volume, lot less power needed to move

i'd say unhook one sub altogether and troubleshoot them separately.

Well, that guy is retarded because 14v batts need over 16.0v for proper operation. Also, i'm curious about your vehicle charging so high in general.. Does it only do it at first start or does it also jump over 15.0v under load? I'd be curious to know because if it likes to jump over 15v during play, it can cause longterm damage to AGM batteries when large current is tied together with that voltage.

Just looking over the manual. The BC2000D can safely accept DC voltage up to 18v. It's making me wonder, if it were voltage related, if Tirefryr is right in that the buildhouse may have accidentally put a safety protect threshold set for 12v amps instead of 18v amps... 12v amps can go in protect between 15.5-16.0v. I would honestly just contact CA and see if they can get you a fixreplacement. You'll be out $~20 in shipping but at least you should get a full working amp back.

We are in the testing for a solution right now, nothing permanent. If everything we said were to be taken permanent, you'd be having one sloppy looking install, hehe.

just for kicks, remove some things that benefit maintaining voltage in the rear to get your voltage down some and see if it helps. If you need help doing that, hehe.. there are many things to create resistance.

where is your stinger meter measuring voltage at? If it's not directly at the amp.. then measure at the amp what dc voltage is. If it comes to be the amp doesn't like 15.1v+, there are ways to positively incorporate safe shitty wiring methods

drain batts? I'm suggesting unplug rcas and speaker wire. With amp on, it will only draw idle current, which is typically less than 3A. With vehicle on, that's nothing.

ok, this is no good! unplug all speaker wires from amp and let it come on and see if it ever protects. this means no rcas and no speaker wires. I would suggest letting it rest overnight(in case thermal problem is an issue too) if it still protects after doing this.

OK.. nobody let Chop know but yesterday we threw a surprise for him! If he finds out.. then we are screwed! lol.. it was great randomly goin up there and hangin out with the IAK crew once again. I don't like to wait for Slamology every year...

i'm assuming you have no bench tester power supply available? We can only narrow down to a certain extent until it looks like you are going to have to start borrowingpurchasing things to test with further assuming this cannot be sent off for warranty service inspection just yet. different RCA cable different amp different headunit I believe we are down to these 3 things right now.

i dont know. u said longest time u've played the amp is 45min.. I'd shoot for 1-2hrs.

Fearz, this won't happen when vol is low, disconnect RCAs and just let amp run for a long time and see if it ever goes into protect. If it doesnt, run a new set of RCAs to headunit.

We are exactly 2 weeks away before all Group Buy orders are final!

ok, 30sec to 45min and not always loud. Do this- Play sound at vol.2, very low volume and see if it ever goes in protect. If it DOES, unplug RCAs and leave amp on and see if it ever goes into protect.

what are you using to read voltage? How long has the amp ever played before protect? when it goes in protect, is it always playing loud? Check ohm load at speaker terminal. Does amp go in protect if headunit is put on pause after a period of time?

typically, this is caused from a disconnected wire so pull the subs and inspect. This is also why i never suggest using terminals on boxes.. Just do passthrough right out the box. Eliminates many problems that have happened to people in the past.

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