shizzzon

9 batts where over half of them are G31s on single alt... If you do not constantly check and perform maintenance on your electrical system about 2-3x Per Week, i give you less than 12 months before either your batts or alternator dies. You are going way overboard on requirement and then at the same time you may be using the wrong type of battery too. If it's not Maintenance free, I wouldn't use it. that alternator is going to be under some bad abuse... i'd invest in an ammeter and DMM and check it under all usable conditions.

Numerical.

10,000 18s on 240 Stetsom 45ks. Lol.. 8 18" Icons 4th order on currently 1 SS XXX 6500d

look at the box i built for Sencheezy a while back. he used an 8" form tube about ~24in long. Most of it was internal, only a few in external. I added 3 extra layers of wood inside the box around the exit hole(3" thick) to secure the form tube. It doesnt move, trust me. Add some glue or silicone or duct tape, lol, anything internally and it will stay still. It will not deform under pressure whatsoever.

Looks like you did a Kid Trick too! Look in the top left corner close to 30seconds.. Comes out of nowhere.. Is that hair i hear moving? I must go see!

if u built it in the trunk.. that wouldnt be possible.. IF you really can't get any more space.. What i would do is find a single 12 that would love that space!

if u serious which isn't insane.. you can always build the box IN THE TRUNK. That will allow you to get bigger volume and be theft proof

Here is another video showing how our Wireless meter is not inferior with wired competition. @37 seconds is when the solid sine wave starts to show actual comparison. SPL-Lab equipment is on the right running on an Android Tablet.

I decided to reread everything you posted, OP, since you are running out of ideas here... First off, if the clipping light is coming on, then rest assured without other tools present, it appears you are applying expected power to them, especially at the same time they are getting hot. Now, one thing has really got me interested- Final load reading- 1.3ohms. This is incorrect.. The Sundown SA 12's in Dual 4ohm have an RE of 3.55ohms per coil. Wire one D4 in parallel and you will get 1.77ohms. Wire two D4s in parallel and you will get 0.89ohms. I would unscrew the subs out of the box, remove EVERY SINGLE wire coming off of the subs and measure with DMM each coil individually. That means you will have 4 different readings here. Another note- Your actual NET volume is about 3.0cuft because you need to factor in sub displacement too and i came up with roughly 3.0 on the dot. 3.0 for these 12s is small for tuning low therefore your box's peak potential will not be in the lower end of the play range but possible in the mid40s to mid 50s Hz range. This is quite possible why they are not moving so much on the low end. Another note- No 2 12s can compare to a single 18 via cone area. Your BTL also is probably more efficient than both of these 12s which results in greater SPL when comparing same amp. Another note- Firing forward out of a trunk limits some of the low end anyways as you have lower cabin gain with that firing direction for lower notes. Firing to the rear can increase cabin gain ASSUMING there is enough room around the box for the sound to come into the cabin easily. However, based on other likely events, this would only be a bandaid for getting you better low end.

oh i know why you are making me elaborate.. Down here, we build daily street boxes the same way we would competition boxes. (here comes the jokes, lol) I'm just used to it now seein it for so long.

lol, i'm just sayin if u need to bend a port.. it's better just to use a slot. Bending aeros is never a good idea because it canwill cause turbulence so it defeats the purpose. So, a user can use a slot port, preferably with slightly more port area to make up for the potential loss due to turbulence when the port is bent.

If you have a soldering gun, you could attempt to fix it yourself real quick. Of course if u mess up, u would probably damage the remote lead permanently leading to a repair anyway.. If it were me, i'd try n pull that solder out but if you've never done it before, see if you can find someone who has.

Because the people who compete and choose to use form tubes do it purely because they have the depth and room for port area externally to run an external port using one of these. If competitors need to bend the port, slot port is far less work to achieve equal tuning. I built a test box one time for a single 15 and used a 30 somethin inch long 12" tube, lol. It made it peak LOW, in the low 30s. It was awesome.. but impractical install. It took up the entire rear of the car from the front seat to the back bumper in the scion tc. But, form tubes are also typically used externally in competition. Sometimes not completely external but some, nonetheless. The goal here is to get the port out of the box as much as possible. I had seen a 0.9db-1.7db gain from pulling my port out of the box when i built that test box while back. dB gain has a range because it was based on tuning changes but it was always a gain from 35-42hz.

Specifically ABS plastic- http://www.mcmaster.com/#abs-plastic/=hma1gf Choose thickness and width and there you go.

Pm me, I'll get you taken care of

Group buy has started. It will end MAY 5th at 11:59pm EST. To be a part of the group buy, please Paypal $165 to the following address(do not send as a gift or payment will be refunded)- [email protected] You can either send this amount or full amount. Remainder amount needs to be paid within 60 days from now. All Group buy orders are expected to ship by the end of May. Below is all pricing for what we have to offer. We also offer custom calibrations listed below. If you do not need anything changed, you will receive a normal built meter. NOTE- when paying, please let us know what you are purchasing. Below is what we offer- For information on our meters, please visit our website at- www.spllabusa.com USB Meter- Stock specs - 120-179dB 10hz-120hz Price - $349 Group buy Options- 110-169dB, 115-174dB LCD Meter- Stock specs - 120-180dB 20hz-120hz Price - $399 Group Buy Options- 10-120hz 115-175dB, 125-185dB, 130-190dB, 135-195dB USB Pro Meter- Stock specs - 120-179dB 10hz-120hz Price - $499 Group Buy Options- 110-169dB, 115-174dB Wireless Bluetooth Meter- Stock specs - 130-180dB 20hz-120hz Price - $419 Group Buy Options- 10-120hz 125-175dB, 135-185dB, 140-190dB, 145-195dB USB Noise Meter-(RTA) Stock specs - 80-140dB 20hz-20000hz Price - $259 Group Buy RTA Pro Meter-(RTA) Stock specs - 90-130dB 20hz-20000hz Price - $359 Group Buy Both above RTAs can be adjusted to 10-20000hz for free or up to 22000hz for a $15 fee. Any questions or anything, please ask.

Exactly, that's why you wouldnt know unless u rebuild like i mentioned. But from the years of experience and being around the scene.. that's just how it is. It's common knowledge.

You wouldnt know unless u rebuilt. Most to all Draggers run a 70/30 on the driver side because high pressure(port) moves to low pressure areas(opposite of port). IE- port horizontally up top, you would do awesome in the kick. Less restrictions are seen when porting on driver side as there is a steering wheel on the driver side. There are less restrictions on the passenger side therefore, driver side port it is.

yep, the official method of obtaining loudest pressure in a USA vehicle.

Ok.. well.. found out i'm not the first person to do 4 18s in a 2door hatch.. BUT.. i am the first person to do it in a scion tC...hehe. Anyways, more pics-

Cactus Sounds MKII SP audio SP15X Am I going to extreme here?

u need a battery charger. 12.7v isnt bad but they can be slightly topped off to 12.9-13.1v Once all batts are fully charged separately, then put em back on an alt. an alt is a maintainer, not a charger. If you got discharged batts, an alt will supply massive current compared to a charger. What happens is this- Open a can of coke and pour it in a glass. the fizz will reach the top... wait.. then when it settles down, the glass is only 70% full.. that's how an alt would maintain batteries that are discharged. It cant fully charge a batt when discharged, but a charger can. Once the batts are charged, the alternator can maintain maximum charge capacity. Even people who have a lot of alts n batteries still need to manually charge their batts every once in a while to keep the batts in top notch performance.

well.. if the specs were right for the sub then that's fine.. Nothing massive needs to be built for a W6 anyway.. I'm curious on what the specs are from the prefab vs what you built.. facts will allow us to actually analyze something.

if it was a box built from JL audio, then i wouldnt consider that prefab. Prefab in my book means generic built boxes with average volumes, but lacking in port tuning. Most prefab boxes use ~40hz or higher tuning which may be great if you love punchy bass but will exhibit terrible low end. Also, most prefab boxes are not internally braced which can lead to problems for those running some heavy duty subs with a lot of power on hand.