shizzzon

you seem to have enough batt.. but .5ohm strapped is your call, i highly do not recommend it. Testing shows wired at 0.5ohm per amp, they pulled 596A rising to just a hair under 1ohm. You are theoretically going to attempt to double that or in reality maybe increase current draw by 20-50%... That's somewhere between 1440 - 1800A of draw in reality. Just be careful. The low voltage dip alone may cause problems if the protection circuit does not react fast enough.

uh oh.. it's not a good idea to put "steal me" badges on your vehicle... I hope no one thinks you got an iron man in there...

hmm.. bustin balls in this thread... threatening to show dick pics in my build log... Team IAK is about to go balls deep on really exposing themselves soon.

WTF? I can't even have my own build log.. Damnit... When the shit hits the fan, better be ready for the result. I'm aimin for a 175 daily driver now.. Nah, lol.. i am not that stupid, hehe. It will be couple more days before i can get started on it again... Got to get a box design done, one more computer done, some advertising done, THEN.. i can begin again.

lol.. then you get a notice, this violates our policy.. this is who complained- Sencheezy, lmao....

I have nothing to hide.. Maybe i should take some pics of senchez and bury them in my build log for him to find...

whichever way is easier for you. If you are going to jump over the starting batt's post first, like most people do, just make sure if using a high output alt that the terminal or custom block mounted on the starting batt post is of adequate amperage to prevent resistance from building up at the starting battery. You can tell quite easily if this is happening by placing your hand on the positive post of the starting battery. If it's quite hot, you need better conductive postblock on the battery.

if you got noise coming through your sub, never crank the stereo up. It can easily take out both the sub and amp(fry the input stage).

I do not have updates pics but it's on the driver side. the opening that's left is the port.

hardcore anal bass, lmao... Yea, there are some more pics i need to take of the inside but thanks, Senchez. Also, a video will be posted here shortly explaining what all has happened and will be happening Epic Style like always.

Here are pics and vid to post shortly...

coincidence

next year, we begin R&D to protect RCA signal.. That will the last of our protection project. Sucks to have to go through all of this.

and not enough money for a meter.. shakin head at u senchez.... i guess if u do get an spl meter and it ever gets stolen, u can claim it for $1000 wont you? Oh PS- all extra money rewarded goes back to my battery fund, back on topic- Hell, my wife doesnt even know who i am yet so i guess she could care less what i spend money on and how much at this time.

good news.. They have now figured out which slam bag fits.. Now they are in a rush to get everything put back together by today so i can get my car back. Specs still remain the same- 2500lb rated per rear wheel.

Car is in shop for Suspension install #4. At this current time, all Slam bags that have been attempted to install on this car have failed because they are too wide.... They have a few hours left today to find one before we find out there isn't one in existence.

i am seeing 55x4 @4ohms.

i gave you a real world scenario... The more batts you add, the more current that will be supplied from the alt to the batts to keep them maintained... I would not suggest dumping more than several batts onto a stock alt but you are referring to just one extra. I do not believe you will be full tilting the stereo every second the car is on.... Therefore, when you are not, the alt will be attempting to charge batts. In this instance, you would benefit from a remote voltmeter. Speculation discussions won't get you a definite answer. Time to get some experience yourself as every install is different.

batteries are more used than alts in car audio. Stock alt should last you quite a long time. If the stock alt burns out and you do not think you were abusing it, then you need either a DC XP alt or no high output alt would suffice. I have ran 6 3500w amps on stock alt before for several months. I monitor very closely what was going on to ensure the safety of the stock alt. And that was 2 yrs ago. Stock alt still works fine today. I used stock alt because high output alt burned up.... I have an XP alt sitting here to be installed but will do it once my build is complete. XP alts have temp sensing in them to prevent the rectifier from burning out.

u should hate on phi the most... He has gotten some deals that piss me off... Some people out there are so stupid.. and he finds em all...

here is a scenario i had in my car so you be the judge of 4 15s vs 4 18s. Remember, i only had 2 batteries and stock alt so my db numbers are low because of that. 4 15s 1082A of current draw 144sqin of port(very small) 13.5cuft NET volume 153.4db at headrest 3 15s 781A of current draw 280sqin of port 12.5cuft NET volume 153.4db at headrest So let's evaluate- both setups equal same score, exactly.. So, i dropped 1 sub (177sqin of cone area) and increased port area by 135sqin = 280sqin of port. I then also increased volume per driver from 3.375 to 4.16cuft BUT.. i cut output power from 1082A to only 781A. Summary- more cone area, less volume, more power = less cone area, bigger volume, less power. In your situation, your power will be the same. In my 4 15 install, i was only using 11sqin of port per cube in a sense. the 3 15 install was using 22.4sqin of port per cube. Doubling the port area and decreasing power usage by only 28% and decreasing cone area by 25% netted same output. You be the judge.

put a form tube in front of a sub in a wall design and watch the numbers on the meter drop and drop... Narrowing the front wave direction causes cancellation like crazy! So, same thing may apply here.

Estimate pricing shows it's not cheap but can take the place of a DMM, Ammeter, O-scope(for those that just have to have one for one purpose, hehe), and the device is portable. Portable meaning it can be used by shop owners to quickly access an entire install without permanently installing it if that is not the purpose. It also has on-board flashable ROM on it too that we are looking to incorporate some nifty things for future use. Anything is possible with a ROM chip.

Honestly sounds like a waste of engineering. Only stupid people would really benefit, but they'll still find a way to fuck shit up. Safety scissors suck. It's active monitoring and protection... Think of a DMM... Ok, you just got everything wired up and you test it and everything is good.. That was passive checking. You then have a remote voltmeter so you can keep an eye out in case something "odd" happens like alternator goes out or batteries are acting like they are dead, etc.. With the active monitor, you would know immediately to stop what you are doing and inspect possible problem but only if you were looking at the voltmeter. With this device, it will go one step further and protect against faults by shutting down the source of the problem but on a much higher level of course... Now, you know most of us on here do not need "supervised" machines to keep our equipment safe, BUT sometimes something may happen that was completely unexpected and damage something.. That is what we are trying to prevent. We will also be working on a device next year that will monitor and protect signal input sections of both single AND strapped amps in realtime! Signal input sections are a big common problem of failure from many SPL type installs. And many amps that get strapped fail when the slave amp goes into protect and doesn't take the master with it...