shizzzon

i think i am interested man. Let me do some light research and i'll get back to you.

that i cannot answer 100% I have a Windows 7 test machine here... When i try to Virtualize MAC OS X Snow Leopard, then use WINE to run our software, the hardware support does not tag along with our software.... In the MAC Environment, we can see our hardware in the Sound devices, we can execute our software, but the software does not see the hardware... It may be an issue with running a virtualization inside virtualization (Windows Inception, hehe) so i cannot guarantee it would work with a MAC host or not.

Unfortunately, we do not have Apple software at this time. We do have instructions to get our USB meter to work on an iPad, but it requires about ~$65 of 3rd party hardsoftware and will only do realtime and peakhold only. Within all 50 states, we charge the same.

12.6v is LOW for an agm battery. For the size you are running, they should be at LEAST at 12.9v or better. You need an AGM battery charger and they need to be put on charge before placing a new alt in the car. Whether this resolves the issue or not, this is crucial. I use a Diehard battery charger for around ~$90 at Sears. Next, You can also pick up a decent Load tester that is not electronic to save money. For testing cell damage, most cheap load testers are 100-150A. That's plenty for quick testing batts that exhibit high voltage at rest.

how long does the battery last on a full charge? Does it last longer than your 12v?

maybe you should have paid them in gum?

Yep, same here.. You lose that same center mounting point and #$^^$#$^#^.. that isn't good, hehe. Also, edouble101.. DAMNIT! Routers always cause me to go near deaf from using them and now they're doing it on a damn video. It never fails.... Routers are like bullet tweeters out of control.

well, you could probably put a layer of wood on the bottom and run 4 2x4s up to prevent the sub from shifting during movement. I've seen this done before from companies. Just make sure the 2x4s are braced in such a way so it's impossible for them to break loose from the bottom wood. That shouldnt add too much extra weight to the box.. OR.. do what alternator companies like DC Power does.. Cover the sub in a thick bag and blow foam the whole inside of the box... That'll protect it assuming the box is stout enough to not fall apart.

Julian is mostly right.. I have done the calculations on this. IT is cheaper to get 16v AND be able to put out more VA on 16v than 12v, but requires a lot of weight and space. Big vehicles do not have this problem so it's ideal in this situation.

In the next few days, Mega Car Audio at 611 Shorter Avenue SW Rome, GA will be an authorized location to order SPL-Lab products. They will have all information on hand for customers to read about our products and our company. Information of our company and products and ordering ability will start sometime at the end of next week. For quick assistance, ask for Wesley Harris.

another league that takes the fun out of competing....

Opinion is that it would be no way in hell that the amp is going into protect due to a low ohm configuration UNLESS one of the coils are bad.

Let me rephrase that because you are right, you did purchase a used one. What we were prepared to do was send you a new charging adapter as it appeared that was the problem at present. That never happened... I would have then offered to replace it(which would be either with another used one or a refund) but we never got to that stage of troubleshooting. I did not post this to push your buttons whatsoever... I posted the initial comment to let anyone else who reads this know that we do not just watch problems go unanswered as it could be interpreted that way. We are always prepared to exchange possible damaged unit with a brand new one. That's why I said what i said initially but then realized you didn't purchase a new one so I was a little off there on my statement. Sorry Steve!

We did offer a while back for you to send it back to us and we'd ship you out a new one but it wasn't that much of a concern at the time as ccnncc was using it more than anyone else and was fine with it. Inaccuracy isn't normal and therefore is warrantied.

All products include everything you need physically. All you need to do is download our software from our website and you are good to go. Our software is updated frequently so we tend to just keep it available online instead of on disc.

The following is Maximum suggested price. USB Meter - $409 USB Pro Meter - $609 LCD Meter - $464 Bluetooth Wireless Meter - $469 USB Noise Meter - $309 USB SQL Meter - $499 RTA Pro Meter - $419 Combo Packages- Combo packages can only be purchased directly through SPL-Lab USA. Contact the following for information- Sean Madison 502-471-0002 [email protected] Skype- shizzzon-spl-lab_usa1 USB Meter + USB Noise Meter This will give you a 120-179db bass meter and a beginner's RTA of 20-15000Hz meter with 80-140dB range. Normal cost - $718 Combo cost - $669 USB Meter + RTA Pro Meter This will give you a 120-179db bass meter and a professional RTA meter of 20-20000Hz with 90-130db range. Normal cost - $828 Combo cost - $739 2 Bluetooth Wireless Meters Normal cost - $938 Combo cost - $879 To purchase or to learn more about our products, please visit www.spllabusa.com You can also register on our forum there as well.

Regardless of subject... what you "experienced", "thought", "appeared", etc.. is pointless.... Besides, several years ago, Termlab measurements were a good 2-4db higher than what they are today. Even today, what you seen or heard is pointless to me...

what's better? 6 18s or 74.5 5.25" co-axials?

I do not have permission to access the new, old forum, lol. Please Obi Wan Kinobe, you're my only hope.

You wanna see pics of the new suspension, chuck? Have Senchez take a pic of his hair. The cushion was enough to get this build back on top... If you wanted to know his part in the build.. well, that was it. This is what drives us. Between me, david and jason.. i don't know who can crack on who harder... Although, I can say David is pretty damn good at it at any given time.

Like i tell other new customers- We wouldn't exist if the Termlab didn't. We are the competition to that meter. Our SPL based meters are calibrated to be within 0.1db of the Termlab measuring sine waves. Think of it like this- Take 100 Termlabs and 100 SPL-Lab meters.... Go out and burp all day long. What is the result? the same.. You wouldn't be able to tell which company's product you were using in terms of resulting score. I would also not add more G31s if they are not same makemodel as current ones being used.

good thing you posted! I thought he was running 5500s, then yes, your battery bank will suffice. the amps themselves will perform more stable if you burp at or very close to tuning as i mentioned earlier.

You do not need a ton of money to invest in an SPL meter. www.spllabusa.com You have been talking to the National Director of Sales.

i will tell you this- if your box is large enough for the 2 subs which it seems to be, your peak(not considering cabin gain) is usually only a couple Hz higher than your tuning... So, since you know where you peak at in the vehicle.... This is something that will interest you- The impedance curve will spike at tuning, it always will. What i would do is tune to 46-48hz. Keep it wired at 2ohms and do testing to MAKE SURE you are tuned right! Then, you should safely be able to strap at 0.5ohm for a burp without failure.