shizzzon

You can't just use winisd and you can't just use what happens when you install it and turn it on. If you truly want to be able to at least forsee or expect some sort of response, you must do both and overlap their results together. 98% of us on here would probably careless about taking the time to do this.. but i guarantee you if you did it just one time, you will enjoy learning what is happening by actually being able to mix experience with what's on a computer program.

This technique also comes in handy when you are burping for competition too. Let me explain- Let's say someone told you to find your car's peak by using a sealed box, etc.. bla bla bla. So you do and it's 47hz. So, you think for the rest of your life in this car, 47hz is the only frequency to aim for.... WRONG. It was only the PEAK for 2 given reasons- 1- it was the peak found out of a whole array of frequencies.. But what were the DB values of all the other frequencies? 2- it was the peak found based on the displacement of the enclosure used and the remaining cabin volume at play... So lets say you go and build a wall now.. Well, hehe, the remaining cabin volume will be a LOT smaller so the peak resonance in the vehicle will go UP. So, let's say it went up to 51hz and you know it will go up.. So you measure with the wall sealed and sure enough, it went up.. in this example, it went up to 51hz. So now you think every wall build needs to peak at 51hz... Lol.. no. If you take a cabin gain graph of the vehicle....You may see other frequencies compared to 51hz only lower in amplitude by less than 0.1-3.0db. What's interesting about this is this- Even though 51hz is the most EFFICIENT peak, it can be overcome by forcing the enclosure to peak somewhere else and developing enough amplitude to overcome the efficient peak of 51hz in this example. Why would one do this? What if you didn't have the depth to tune low enough to get to your efficient tuning? You can only do large port area, but not depth? Large port area = higher tuning = less depth of port. Just some things for you to think about.

In actuality, if you do model a 4th order in winisd, you will NOT want your response to be flat... If you wanna get super crucial about it, it's still highly advised to model in winisd to get a base. THEN.. with an already active setup in the vehicle(sealed, no influence with vent allowed), measure cabin gain in vehicle. This requires an spl meter and patience. It takes a couple hrs of measuring and writing everything down. Then based on info you obtained, make a graph of your cabin gain. Then you can use that graph on top of what Winisd says and blend the two together to attempt a theoretical actual response curve where Winisd will then more accurate than just using it by itself.

no not yet. thanks though! i'll probably mess around with it in the next 0-3 weeks.

if the sole purpose is to see if part of the 3 sets of diodes have burnt out of the rectifier, then that's easy.. Get a clamp meter(ammeter), clamp it around your charging cable at the alternator. Now would be a good time to know what your alternator's rated specs are. I would primarily test maximum output potential. Most alts, unless otherwise stated, are rated COLD and most alts will reach peak at engine rpm of 1800-2500. So.. just to make sure you get there, rev to about 3000rpm, put an ENORMOUS load on the vehicle. Something you know the alt just can't handle. Obtain reading... if an alt is rated for 250A cold, it's hot reading could be anywhere typically between 195-230A due to variables(belt, engineering, resistance, wiring configuration, etc) If one set of diodes go out, 13 of the output would be lost so it should be quite noticeable.

Got some new pics. I had to modify the wall to prepare for MORE batt installation! The batteries are also going to be helping brace the flex of the back wall. What you seen inside is Thermal Insulation. Help keeps batts warm in the winter for better scores on the meter. In the summer, user MUST regulate charge voltage to compensate for ambient temperature around batteries. I have a chart here to compensate for charge voltages from -20F to 145F.

We have already talked about this before in another community and would require a whole new schematic and engineering for such. In the future, that "may", a big maybe, as an option but not for this device. The parts and engineering involved in this device are definitely not cheap mainly because it's something that is not readily available to the market in this form. We are trying to keep cost down as much as possible without sacrificing what we strive for= Accuracy. Other cosmetics, while do matter, would generally be disregarded to prevent huge cost increase. I have personally seen "other" screens with other colors available and, in my own opinion, does not look professional I guess you can say. It's slightly harder to read presented information in a quick, timely manner.

We at SPL-Lab strive to bring the customer new, innovative products to the market. Some of these products are more improved over what's currently out there and others just plain do not exist. But, SPL-Lab is not just a company aimed at marketing sound measurement devices. We are here to bring the customer, the market, what it needs, what it wants and what it's been begging for. What does the market want? Something to fill the gap. Something that just doesn't exist. Something that when you see it and use it will you see how unique such a product is that you possibly cannot function without it. A piece of mind you could say. Coming soon in 2012- SPL-Lab Smart Monitor This device monitors ACTIVELY within an automotive environment four key points in the customer's vehicle. AC Voltage AC Amperage DC Voltage DC Amperage Ranges- AC Voltage - 0-300v AC Amperage - 0-100A using TRUE RMS technology! DC Voltage - 0-30v(capable of 6v, 8v, 12v, 14v, 16v, 18v and 24v systems) DC Current - 0-100A using TRUE RMS technology! This device can be mounted in the driver's view to see AC and DC V\A in realtime. Ps- This will be fully enclosed and engineered to withstand the sound pressure abuse our meters withstand which is levels that can exceed 180dB! And do not worry about heat. This device will stay cool under normal operation. So, that looks cool and all but that's it? Just active monitoring? Doesn't seem so "awesome" to me? You are right! That is not everything! The device features Threshold Levels for ALL FOUR monitoring points. What does this mean? Example- Let's say a user has a 5,000w bass amp, a sub and some batteries in the back. Let's say this user has no idea what he\she is doing. That is ok! With basic knowledge, our device will help prevent catastrophic failure and even prevent unforeseen failure for those users that had no control over potential issues that can arise in car audio. So, the user hooks everything up.. User starts to adjust Threshold Levels. AC- Voltage - Do not Exceed 70v (5kw @1ohm ~70v\70A) This can prevent clipping if wanted. Amperage - Do not Exceed 40a (this is to help protect tinsel leads or coil). DC- Voltage - Do not Drop Below 12.0v (this is to protect overworking alternator and excessive discharge levels from your battery(ies). Amperage - Do not Exceed 100a (this is to prevent excessive cyclic current draw from low DC current devices such as an alternator). You do not have to use Threshold levels if you do not want to either! We have a Defeat option for those who compete to prevent our device from interfering! Amazed yet? There's more... The device will come Fully Portable! We had both customers and shop owners in mind when we engineered this. Fully portable means user can either permanently install it in vehicle or plug it right up via 12v cigarette socket and fine tune and monitor system and unplug it and pack it away. This device will be able to monitor your amp's voltage output and current draw from subwoofers to determine safe range playback when not installed actively. Shop owners can also monitor dc voltage drop during test run to ensure adequate electrical system before leaving. This device when used for the car audio market is comparable to take the place of a DMM for measuring ac\dc voltage, an Ammeter for measuring subwoofers current draw and a remote display allowing the user to monitor not just realtime DC voltage like other voltmeters but ALL 4 points- DC voltage and current, AC voltage and current ALL on the same screen! In the event any of your thresholds are tripped, the SMART Monitor will immediately kill the signal to all equipment it is monitoring. It will immediately re-engage once the signal is back within safe ranges which usually is 1 second after trip. This will let you know and see why it tripped and to let you know that something needs attention before catastrophic failure occurs in the near future! Here are pics of the sensors- If anyone is wondering how these sensors plug up to the Main block, it is simple. All sensors plug up using standard USB Cable. We wanted to use a cable that is very popular so if the cable ever gets damaged, the user can easily replace it without trying to locate a "specialty cable." And one last thing.. If you are not convinced enough yet, here is something else to think of- Ever wanted to know what your "impedance rise" or "wattage output" is at a certain single sine wave? With our SMART Monitor, you will, in realtime, be able to calculate the AC Voltage and Amperage numbers to give you the answer you are looking for. If our SMART Monitor says AC1: 46A 110V Then that means your Impedance was 2.39Ω Your wattage output was 5,060w. Active Monitoring and protection gives a lot more peace of mind that your investment is easily more protected than even before! For fun sessions and for personal test n tune, you are now able to measure actual impedance when testing with single sine waves for "burping" and measuring actual wattage output. Shop owners can now have a tool that they can feel more comfortable with using to know that the whole vehicle from front to rear is within a safe operating zone rather than relying on the customer to know exactly what he\she needs to do if they do not have our device installed. Our device comes bundled with the Mainblock with display module and 1 AC v\a sensor and 1 DC v\a sensor with USB cables and power adapter for car. RETAIL Pricing for this entire bundle will be less than our USB Meter. This is major news to be able to bring so many features for such a new device at such a price! You do not have to purchase both sensors if you do not want\need them! If you only need 1 of the 2 sensors, that will save you $50 per sensor. Do not fear though. We will gladly sell additional sensor to those who need replacements or add-ons to meet the 1 AC 1 DC sensor bundle. Mass Production begins at the end of next month... Do I dare ask? Who is ready for a Group buy? Any questions or comments, post them in this thread. We will create a new thread with Group buy pricing and Group buy dates when the time comes.

Of course, correct again. We will list recommendations and things to do to ensure your values are set properly. We can explain why such values would be ideal, etc...

You are correct! The sensor pictured above is what the DC and AC sensor look like. There 2 of them per package. When the wire goes through the sensor, it's monitoringprotecting current and voltage. It's kinda pointless to protect too much DC current so we focus on low dc voltage protection, ac high voltage protection and ac high current protection. You would wire the DC sensor in with an amp's power line or charging cable. Most people will run it in line with an amp of their choice. The Ac sensor will run in line with 1 speaker terminal output. This will measure AC current and voltage. With it setup like this, the user would then set thresholds that the system is not to surpass. IF ti surpasses any, the unit will flash the value it was at which broke the threshold and will trip the entire system to alert the user of such problem. AC high voltage protection can protect from excessive clipping, dirty output, etc... AC high current protection can protect from excessive current being dumped into your speaker(s) causing the tinsel leads, coil, etc.. to overheat. There are other factors involved which can cause these things to burn up without excessive power being the answer here... but i can assure you that if the current isn't tripped under those under conditions, the voltage sure will be. We will have more info soon publicly. We are in the middle of revising the DC sensors to 200A standard and preparing mass production and then we can get more elaborate on the details.

We will be manufacturing these devices with 200A DC sensors as a standard. 200A DC rms 300A DC peak. 1/0 cable capable. Prices will NOT change to our customers. Group Buy pricing will be posted before the end of the month.

it's on a sunday so i'm out 100%.. until i can compete that is.

This is what i do- First decide how far forward you want it, that's first! After that, decide on whether you want to leave any paneling including headliner in place or not.. The more you REMOVE, the more you can structurally brace it externally and give it more strength. Once you decide this, then first goal is to remove paneling and THEN figure out how you are going to level out the floor. IF you need to weld, weld. IF you need to attach wood to any steel structure in your car, purchase Fasco 110. Use Titebond II on wood in areas where it will NOT run down. If it runs, use Fasco 110 instead. Use screws where needed. Try and use as much external bracing as possible and as little internal bracing as possible. Int volume and tuning is not important right now. The baffle and port should be about the last thing you install before the wall is pretty much done. Get an estimate as to how much space you have to work with. Use the most possible in a sense. Don't try and get 20cuft for 2 15s, for example unless you have very specific goals...

No offense, and i know u know i'm not trying to, but if i cancould, i'd really wish i was there pretty much pre-testing the install and monitoring you during such event. I'd rather support you in person with what you are about to do because if a problem arises, you need to disconnect immediately and safely or your sub or amp(s) can go pretty quick in something bad happens. you need a 2nd pair of eyes on your amps and voltage at all times when doin something like that. You do have a mega batt bank which is good for voltage.. i'm just advising caution because i know u can't test the way you would need to before doing this burp and "guessing" what happens.

We were requested to post up Wattage calculations for those who do not want to do the math. This is a guide to let you know what our DC 100A sensor is capable of handling to allow you to better choose which sensor is more appropriate for the average user. The following is wattage calculations based on "paper calculations." That means without ANY OTHER variable effecting the result. Also, the following is actual current draw, not output power from your amp. To compensate for this, I will post theoretical wattage output capabilities next to it. (class d eff- 82%, class ab eff- 67%. This is used for following calculations) DC Sensor 100A- Class D amps continuous- 10.0v - 1000w pull, 820w output 11.0v - 1100w pull, 902w output 12.0v - 1200w pull, 984w output 13.0v - 1300w pull, 1066w output 14.0v - 1400w pull, 1148w output 15.0v - 1500w pull, 1230w output 16.0v - 1600w pull, 1312w output 17.0v - 1700w pull, 1394w output 18.0v - 1800w pull, 1476w output 19.0v - 1900w pull, 1558w output SURGE(quick spikes, amp watt rating)- 10.0v - 1500w pull, 1230w output 11.0v - 1650w pull, 1353w output 12.0v - 1800w pull, 1476w output 13.0v - 1950w pull, 1599w output 14.0v - 2100w pull, 1722w output 15.0v - 2250w pull, 1845w output 16.0v - 2400w pull, 1968w output 17.0v - 2550w pull, 2091w output 18.0v - 2700w pull, 2214w output 19.0v - 2850w pull, 2337w output Class AB amps continuous- 10.0v - 1000w pull, 670w output 11.0v - 1100w pull, 737w output 12.0v - 1200w pull, 804w output 13.0v - 1300w pull, 871w output 14.0v - 1400w pull, 938w output 15.0v - 1500w pull, 1005w output 16.0v - 1600w pull, 1072w output 17.0v - 1700w pull, 1139w output 18.0v - 1800w pull, 1206w output 19.0v - 1900w pull, 1273w output SURGE(quick spikes, amp watt rating)- 10.0v - 1500w pull, 1005w output 11.0v - 1650w pull, 1106w output 12.0v - 1800w pull, 1206w output 13.0v - 1950w pull, 1307w output 14.0v - 2100w pull, 1407w output 15.0v - 2250w pull, 1508w output 16.0v - 2400w pull, 1608w output 17.0v - 2550w pull, 1709w output 18.0v - 2700w pull, 1809w output 19.0v - 2850w pull, 1910w output To understand what was just posted above, Look at SURGE ratings! If you are hooking up this sensor to an amp, make sure your amp is NOT RATED higher than what the surge rating is listed for based on the voltage. Otherwise, you may want to opt for our 200A sensor being the primary sensor. If hooking up to an alternator charge cable, divide the number the cables being used by the maximum current output of the alternator. Only one of these cables run through the sensor. This number along with voltage listed above should be used for the CONTINUOUS chart. Alt = continuous, Amp = surge.

Ah,,,, i was comparing apples to apple sauce. Close... I wasn't referring to flexible..The kinda cable where you gotta warm up for 25 minutes with P90X before installing it.

We have a question for everyone. The current DC Sensor side is setup to accept up to 100A of continuous current flow through a power cable that would run through this device. Would it be more sufficient for us to upgrade the DC sensor to a permanent 200A continuous sensor(1/0 cable fitting) or as an upgraded option? FYI - 200A continuous will be safe for the following scenarios- In-line with an amp's power line where the driver configuration is wired no lower than recommended allowing normal current draw. If a customer's sensor were to burn up, we willcan supply another sensor as we will keep these in stock so no worries there. We are just stating that under normal operations, for example, an amp that has dual inputs. Using only one of the 2 inputs for the DC sensor is all that is required. Surges up to 300A are fine as long as the continuous current flow through the sensor is not over 200A which in normal conditions should never be. So, let us know... We are trying to find out if the public wantsneeds 100A continuous DC Sensor or 200A continuous DC Sensor. It doesn't matter what power cable the DC Sensor is monitoring to properly protect against voltage drop! This is important to know. So let us know what you think.

My name is Dr. Sean. "Now, you're gonna have to ask yur-say-elf...." Oops, that's Dr. Phil.

that's VERY $$$ for 2.0 cable man.. Hell, Lowes sells 2/0 cable for less than that. Also, www.wireandsupply.com sells 4/0 cable cheaper than that.

if u have pneumonia, you would have sharp chest pains as well. Also, if that what you have, taking cough medicine will only prolong the problem as it prevents your body from coughing and breaking up the infection... Read about it.

About ready to start putting batteries in this compartment in my car and need to line the wall with some sort of padding so the batts are not just wedged in there around wood. I figure I might as well go ahead and get something that can keep this compartment somewhat warm so i can have the edge in better performance during the cold season for when I compete. So, any thoughts? For the side walls, i have about 1\4" gap on each side of the batts for reference sake. Front and rear, I have 1 1\8" gap in front and behind batt bank. I also have room to put something under them as well but if i do , it must be severely thin, like 1\8" thick, no thicker.

I picked up some Thinsulate from Phi on here. He was hoardin the shit.. I should call the audio police! But seriously, anyone know which way this stuff should be facing? It has 2 sides, one side looks to be some sort of vinyl coating and the other side is packed full of cotton.

<Maury> In the case of T3. Nick, you are NOT a T3 employee <Nick talk>And I never will be</Nick talk> </Maury>

He got a job offer at T3

I was assaulted today.. by myself 2x4 slipped out of my hand on the table saw and wacked the hell out of my forearm... It still hurts like hell 2hrs later.. Feels like i just got done doing 300 forearm exercises too many..