shizzzon

ok then.. Assuming it's Gluten-free, don't forget about me when i make my way down to Louisiana in early 2013...

I heard flux capacitors are pointless in car audio too. You must be doing 88mph to get any juice out of the alternator.

Going fast my ass! You get to hear subs everyday at work, I've been baseless in the car for like 2 months. Try 2 years... But then again, i do travel to shows few hours from home so i don't actually miss the sound, just MY SOUND, hehe.

Visit our website at www.spllabusa.com If you need further assistance, just let me know.

damn.. i thought it was MMAG juice..

WAY overcomplicating everything. Just go get a PAC Audio LC2 as Julian mentioned earlier and 1 extra run of RCA cables. This is the safest way. If you insist on strapping which is not safe, run all negatives to each other on the amps leaving only positive terminals open. There HAS to be some sort of bridging signal module on these amps whether it be via rca or some other cable. Once that's run, the Master amp is determined to be the one that has the Source RCAs ran into it.

Clipping lights are only accurate on test tones so if Maxxsonics is suggesting the above information while playing music, sell the amp and get something else as they do not even understand their own product's capability.

Yay! but i still cant hear mine yet I'm gettin there! Shouldn't be too much longer before i get to here some massive front stage power! 1,800w of deafness, lol.

If the fuse blew, then no current would have been traveling through the wire anymore. For the fuse holder to melt, you would have had to had too large a fuse for that cable in the fuse holder causing the wire to heat, melt the terminal to the fuse holder, etc... or a loose connection at the fuse holder or the fuse holder itself andor along with the terminal to be made of a material not conductive enough for such current transfer(which i doubt in this case). Look for any other signs of melting or burn marks at every end of the power cable all the way to battery and amp, check ground connections and speaker outputs on amp. Also check fusing on amp and see if they blew too.

Well, i got all 10 runs of remote wire fished through the wall now. And dbsupra, yes, it's for 5 switches. 1 switch for each bass amp and the 5th switch for all front stage amps. Now, it's time to order my switches, RCAs and material for a certain project i'm doing that will help both spl-lab and termlab meters.. Interesting isn't it? Can we say no more meter fall off windshield.... EVER EVER.. unless windshield physically disappears, lol.

Got baffles cut for both 8s for passenger door. All i have to do now is copy them for the driver door... Today, i have successfully ran required speaker wire into the passenger door for both 8s and tweeter! Tested continuity, everything is connected properly. Next, trying to find my wire for the driver side under all this damn power cable... Once i find em, i will need to lengthen them and run them through the driver door. Then, duplicate baffles for driver side, then run TEN damn remote wires through driver door.. ugh.. oh the progress.

Yea, they offer vendors the ability to purchase words that couldwould help advertise the vendor's company. I HATE that crap. No words for me.

Without a doubt pure bullshit. Website claims 3500w output with tested THD at 0.01% at under $300 shipped DIRECT SALE... Yea right.. If that were true, then the entire car audio industry would be flocking to PA, lmao.. what a joke. It may produce 3500w when wired down enough, but the signal will be so clipped that you might as well purposely wire the amp with ground noise to get used to the horror.

the surround is so deep, it looks like the front wave is being loaded off the surround, lmao.. What is the goal with these upgrades? What driver line and expected goals to reach vs earlier version?

I have dealt with debating this device on another forum before... We, not just I, do not see the point in a user wanting to watch hisher actual power output, impedance rise, etc.. For one, it's not True RMS.. and if it is, why do they not advertise it? Seems fishy... also, the biggest issue, why would one want to watch these values? Those values are something you measure when you have a problem, not for fun. And that is what many didn't understand about our new device. It doesn't just allow a user to monitor(for those that like to do so), but protects against faults, not just, hey.. this is failing.. oh well... At least our product takes action against faults. But back on topic.. my point is if you want to claim one sub is better than another, then put same equipment in multiple vehicles and tell us how old the drivers are being used and their life history of how they have been used.

To point out the purpose of measuring output power.. that's not correct. I've said this many of times on forums, you cannot get near accurate results by using peak hold. The peaks will be taken at different times of the measurement. So throw the power output out. 2nd, regardless if the sundown andor the aa sub is new or suspension is loose, unless the test can be duplicated in multiple vehicles, there is only 1 direct comparison which is not enough to go off of. Nobody ever does this accurately because of how much it takes to prove... But if you want to, put the same box and same sub swap in at least 2-4 other vehicles and see what the conclusions are. Also, take into account the suspensions of each sub and their current lifespan.

nope, discussed this earlier in the thread. All links have been disabled. To get music, it will be stored on flash drives and all new music in bulk will be uploaded to various rapidshare links for only hours at a time. Hell, YOU need to get out more. You just need to swing by and update your list of songs here.

Happy birthday! I would come down to celebrate but my drinks are far too potent for such quick events... I need to back it off to just some Pucker, lmao.. Nah, Go get drunk! But not too drunk!

lol, love, haha.. rick, just give me the name of the song and artist. Let me listen to it for a little bit so i can answer your question.

come on guys... what else is there to make?

Some more made same as above for same folder mod- Black Eyed Peas - Let's Get it Started Digital Underground - Freaks of the Industry House of Pain - Jump Around Outkast - Hey Ya! Bee Gees - Stayin Alive Vanilla Ice - Ice Ice Baby Sir Mixalot - Baby Got Back Blackstreet - No Diggity Cyndi Lauper - Girls Just Wanna Have Fun Miley Cyrus - Party in the USA 3 6 Mafia - Now I'm High Really High Billy Squier - The Stroke

We now have detailed information about the SMART Monitor(Protection Device). Only 2 weeks left before SMART Monitor Group Buy is over. New product from Spl-Lab, the Smart Monitor, will protect your car audio devices from damage; will help with tuning sound in the car, as well as measure power and acoustics characteristics of your sound system. Actually, the Smart Monitor replaces an ammeter(clamp meter), True RMS digital voltmeter and Oscilloscope and in addition to this, provides protecting functions. Application: Smart monitor takes measurements of DC voltage and amperage used by car amplifiers, as well as AC voltage and amperage delivered by the amplifiers to a subwoofer or other acoustic components. If the current, voltage or power consumption exceeds the set values, Smart Monitor breaks the controlling circuit of Remote amplifiers, thereby switching them off and protecting the acoustic system before user's interference. IE- With the device, it is possible to define the lower limit of voltage, feeding an amplifier, to 10 volt, which will protect it from slump and set the upper limit to 15 volt. Then if voltage will be within the limit of 10-15 volt, Smart Monitor will work as a digital voltmeter, displaying current values, but if the voltage exceeds these limits, the device will detect it and cut off the Remote circuit. The same way it works with exceeding the set limits of AC or current. As another example we can give is setting a power-handling capacity for a subwoofer at 4000 watt, then in case of exceeding the power delivered by the amplifier to subwoofer, the Remote circuit will be also cut off protecting the speaker. Usage for protection: 1. Protection of car amplifiers caused by under voltage or excess input voltage. 2. Protection of car subwoofers and acoustics from overheating and damage caused by uprating the allowed current and voltage (power) of input signal. 3. Protection of the acoustic systems from overheating and damage caused by playing back the corrupt (cut, clipped) input signal. 4. Protecting the electrical wiring of a car and other components from a burn-out at rapid increase of current and voltage (power) consumption by the car audio system. (This does not mean to stop using fuses. Basic protection is still mandatory when using ANY aftermarket protection device. This is an advanced protection device that fusing alone does not suffice in full protection.) Usage for measurements: 1. Monitoring in real time mode of direct voltage and current (power) consumed by your amplifiers and, thereafter, delivered by your alternator and battery. This is an ammeter and digital voltmeter at the dashboard of your car. 2. Displaying voltage and current (power), delivered by the amplifier to the subwoofer or other acoustics according to TRUE RMS algorithm. Devices that measure using this algorithm are rare and not all that cheap, but if you have the Smart Monitor you won't need them. You will be able to compare manufacturer specified amplifier characteristics with actual ones easily. 3. Monitoring readings from two sensors simultaneously (AC and DC, voltage or power). 4. Matching levels (Gain) of different channels of your amplifiers by measuring the amplitude of variable signal, delivered by the amplifier using specialized set-up CD, which is included with every order. Tuning of your car amplifier will become easier and more demonstrable for you. 5. Monitoring the coefficient of harmonic distortion of signal, played back for tuning your car audio equipment with the aid of distortion (“clip”) detection using fast Fourier transformation method. Your components will be protected from overheating and sound will be clear. This feature is available as separate “firmware” with limited functionality. 6. Monitoring current impedance of your acoustics. The device automatically displays impedance along with the signal power delivered by the amplifier. Ergonomics: Smart Monitor consists of the main unit with an aid of which controls major features of the device and displaying data about the state of the system. The unit can be provided in plastic case or without it for hidden installation (for example into the dashboard). Apart from the main unit, there are two detachable sensors of AC and DC, and voltage, which are seated directly into the measured circuits of the car audio system. If the limiting value of measured current of 200 ampere is lower than permitted, there is an option of protection only by voltage. Sensors are connected to the main unit using specialized wires that are up to 5 meters long. The DC and voltage sensor usually should be seated under the hood of the car next to the fuse, and the AC and voltage sensor should be seated in the boot, where amplifiers and subwoofers are usually placed. The power for the device is supplied from car network, 12 volt through the cigarette lighter adapter. Simultaneous connection of one DC and voltage sensor and one AC and voltage sensor is possible. Specifications- Measured value of DC - from 0 to 200 ampere. Measured value of DC voltage - from 0 to 30 volt. Measured value of AC- from 0 to 100 ampere. Measured value of AC voltage - from 10 to 300 volt. Maximum diameter of electric conductor for measuring a current - Standard 1/0 AWG.**** Maximum Remote circuit current - 1 ampere. AC and voltage measuring algorithm – True RMS. Measured values: voltage, current, power, impedance. The algorithm of the system distortion defining - the fast Fourier transformation method. Display - two-line LCD with backlight Sockets/connectors: Power, USB, sockets for two sensors, Remote circuit. Firmware upgrade - Possible through USB and PC. Dimensions: (W*H*D) 2.56" x 4.92" x 1.57" (main unit), 2.09" x 3.23" x 1.18" (sensors) ****- If you have an application where the wire being used exceeds 1/0 standard size, you can use the DC sensor on a smaller amp such as a front stage amp. Measuring voltage drop on this amp is still effective to measure voltage drop across entire vehicle as the source of the voltage drop effects the entire vehicle. You can also put this in line with a cable that is connecting front battery or alternator to rear but only if the values of the alternator do not exceed 200A. Remember, 200A rating is an RMS rating, not peak rating. Example- Crescendo BC5500D requires ~500A of fusing total, 250A per power run. It is completely safe to put this DC sensor on one of the 2 power lines without worrying about the current being too much for the sensor.

for SPL, you'd want that to happen though. If you want it to stay peaking lower, sealed up will typically make your vehicle peak lower.

Dave, if his peak did go up, it's because he has displaced more volume in the cabin area. Though, if his peak went down, it's because the way how is box is tuned is effectively overcoming cabin gain at whatever frequency in that truck is most efficient.

Well, people have said things at shows as to why but i did not post it here because it's not proven. I sometimes do not want to know the reasoning even if it were true because then it would be forced upon everything one designs for and if the reason is actually lowering the score, it's caused by another random variable. Instead, i only use very basic principles on designing and everything else be optionally used but never forced regardless of outcome before testing. I could say, 6th order is always louder than ported enclosure.. So, without testing anything, i build a wall with a general ratio and assume that the score i'm getting is always better than ported.. No! Instead, i'd rather build a 6th order with the ability to adjust both ports and volumes independently to test for months to see what the meter is showing. How what effects what on the meter. The best thing i can say is this- There is and will always be unforseen variables in SPL whether it's environmental or user error but the point is this- No matter how much one knows on paper, it will never translate into the real world 100%. This is why many suggestions, rules of thumb, etc tend to be ignored for SPL only because of random outcomes. So, even by me saying less cone area is better for burps, i will elaborate and say that's a general rule of thumb for burping scenarios. It is not an end all solution to all competitors. These rules of thumb have been duplicated numerous times, but how they are duplicated should be past on with it. Example- the wall ratio i mentioned earlier. If it were true 100% of the time, then here is the problem- The suggestion has been taken for those who meter sealed on the dash. If I open a door, the conclusion may suffer and hurt the score bad. So, if a rule of thumb canis able to be duplicated, information about the environment it is duplicated in and how it's metered should be a part of that suggestion to give it just a little bit more acceptance as a possible norm for SPL.