shizzzon

Ok then.. i'll tell you this as this is what started everything- I have 12 batteries- They are separated in sets of three by using fuse blocks. So batt 1-3 is paralleled, 4-6 is paralleled, etc... Batt 3 runs to a fuse block then out to batt 4 and so on. There are NO fuses in these blocks right now. Why is it when i probe the First block, i get 65ohms. (batt 3-4) When i probe Second block, i get 95ohms (batt 6-7) I havent connected fuse block 3 yet(batt 9-10). So.. why would that ohm value be present without a fuse? That is what has got be concerned.

No, i am checking from POSITIVE TO POSITIVE. It's getting a reading of 0.0ohms when they are NOT connected. No material is touching either terminal, no insulator, nothing, nada.. Only AIR is touching them

so you are saying because the ground is paralleled, it's influencing the power terminals being connected together without being connected?

They don't need more people, they need to prebuild a lot of typical orders. If they can OEM for so many brands and lines of each brand, i'm sure that can set aside 30-70 hard parts prebuilt minus soft parts for all typical orders from the entire FI product line. And you can't say "Oh that's so much money, how will they know they will sell them all?" Because it's FI and they WILL sell them all. They OEM so the FI customers traffic is far less than the quota they must meet for all other orders. I wouldn't want to see them hire more people either, maybe some more machines at the most if something is to be added but prebuild 100%.

I seriously do not believe you cannot find a good ground in this vehicle. That means that you have virtually no stock electronics in the cab area? Yea right... Sanding paint off the inside takes all but 15seconds to do and Wala! For a SMALL amp, the BEST framed ground isn't no where near as crucial. Hell, you could almost ground it to the frame with about 30 paper clips.. Point being, if you've really tried several ground points inside and none work, i doubt it's the ground locations. Take the amp out, pop your hood, set amp somewhere safe. Run amp power to batt, ground to batt. Make sure power is FUSED. Take remote wire and jump it over to the power cable side and hold it there. Does your amp stay on or go off? If it stays on this time.. then i'd try disconnecting all speaker wire and RCAs from your amp FIRST where u got the amp right now in the truck and see if it comes and stays on. I

Yea, De-ionized water is non-conductive enough. Mineral Oil is non-conductive as well.

It is my understanding that you either need to measure using TRUE RMS everything or measure voltagecurrent AND the phase of each.

This thread is not to be used as a request for music, just as enjoyment for what i have made... This thread can be used as a medium to express the creation and lack of knowledge on perfection of creating listed music. I have been told that many songs i have done from scratch have dangerous clipped mixes and pops, etc... This is true.. However, i was also told that it would be too dangerous to listen to it on any setup.... This is not true! All songs i create, i sit hear and listen to them and test them on various setups. Also, almost all music is either dynamically compressed or restricted to allow clipping in the source file. (this does not mean distortion is inaudible if it exists) Very few songs i have done may allow clipping in the source but does not show any sign of added wear\tear in equipment. I am not a professional audio editor, therefore do not expect the unholyness of edited music to come upon you in the form of gold. What you can\will expect and the medium of music offered in the following format- Practically all songs are geared toward the low end fanatic. Almost all songs are geared toward those who can drop below 30hz or those who own a home theater system capable of dropping to the low and under 20hz sometimes. Because of the low end emphasis, unless you own some very nice low end-capable headphones, do NOT try previewing the music! It will sound terrible! All songs need to be played on a very loud low tuned or extremely low tuned setup. I do this for fun therefore i ask nothing in return. For those that have known i do this for fun, some songs listed below have been revised if you have already heard them before... I will keep this up to date. Listed by each song is the peak or range the song peaks at so you can choose which songs fit your install! The Lento 1992 32,29,23 Hz 3 6 Mafia - Funky TowN 54,45,34 Hz AMB - Brace Yo'self 30-34 Hz MMFCL! Pink Floyd Another Brick in the Wall (all 3 parts) over 15min! Warning.. frequency range from 1hz-50hz 0db amplitude (my first one ever.. and the longest) Tech N9ne No Can Do 36 Hz Notorious BIG - Hypnotize 30-42 Hz Master P - Pass Me Da Green 32-43 Hz Busta Rhymes - Match the Name with the Voice 37-51 Hz Lil Jon - Pitbulls Cuban Rideout 52,44,35 Hz Lil Jon - Keep Yo Chullin Out the Street 27-42 Hz 3 6 Mafia - ?unknown? 30-43 Hz Jamie Madrox - Get Em 29-47 Hz Shinedown - Left Out 35 Hz / 32-47Hz near the end Agnus Dei 1992 16-41 Hz Oxide and Neutrino - Shoot to Kill 31-44 Hz Daft Punk - End of Line 19-38 Hz Daft Punk - The Game Has Changed 20-36 Hz 3 6 Mafia - Sippin On Some Sizzurp 31-48 Hz 3 6 Mafia - Hit A MuthaFucka 32-49 Hz 3 6 Maifa - National Theme (Mafia) 39 Hz / 32-44 Hz towards the end 3 6 Mafia - Beat Down 26-37 Hz / 50Hz 3 6 Mafia - Blow A Nigga's Ass Off 30-37 Hz / 66 Hz 3 6 Mafia - No I'm Not Dat Nigga 29-47 Hz Bassment Jaxx - Where's Yo Head At 30-48 Hz 50 Cent - Candy Shop 19,37 Hz Michael Jackson - Smooth Criminal 21-48 Hz Eric Sierra - Korben Dallas 30-45 Hz Pink Floyd - Don't Leave Me Now 15-35 Hz Geto Boys - Still (Die MotherFucka, Die MotherFucka, Die!) 21-47 Hz Ice Cube - Down for Whatever 32,48 Hz Technotronic - Pump Up the Jam 27-43 Hz Technoir - Liar (Bitter Truth Remix) 27-40 Hz Be Careful! This song is not for the faint hearted! Aerosmith - Rag Doll 29-41 Hz Aerosmith - Dream On 21-38 Hz 3 6 Mafia - Shake My Ass (Harian Pepper & AG3 Remix) 31-55 Hz / 65 Hz 3 6 Mafia vs Tiesto - Feel It 28-43 Hz Beach Boys - Good Vibrations 24-35 Hz George Thorogood - Bad to the Bone 28-41 Hz (Listen to this.. it took some talent to get this right!) Queen - We Will Rock You 21-41 Hz House of Krazees - Haunted House 50 Hz E-40 - Yee 31-36 Hz Wu-Tang - Triumph 47-55 Hz Marilyn Manson - Dope Show No specific peak, works in all setups. Lil Wyte - Get High to This 32-36 Hz DJ Paul - DJ Paul 31-38 Hz/ 69 Hz Bone Crusher - It's Me 26-34 Hz The ROC - My Click 31-43 Hz RARE! Low Quality source, it's because it's so rare.. MMFCL! David Banner - Get Down Like a Pimp 27-47 Hz / 53,63 Hz Crucial Conflict - Desperado 29-40 Hz Insane Clown Posse - Skitzofrantic 35 Hz Twista - Get it Wet 31-40 Hz Prodigy - Mindfields 32 Hz Master P - Burbons and Lacs 32-46 Hz Lil Jon - Bia Bia 60,50 Hz / 34-41 Hz near the end Doomsday Productions - Nightstalka 30-40 Hz (when the bass cuts off.. that's normal so don't think your equipment failed, hehe) Tupac - Violent 31-54 Hz Yea Baby! Get Down and Slam! C-Murda - Lil nigga 32-44 Hz Blaze Ya Dead Homie - What My Name Is 32-44 Hz MMFCL! Gangsta Blac - Beat Da Breakz 25-41 Hz KR - Absolute Zero 32-43 Hz Busta Rhymes - Dangerous 32-50 Hz / 71 Hz Bone Thugs n Harmony - Resurrection 28-49 Hz 3 6 Mafia - Ridin in Da Chevy 45 Hz Gorilla Zoe - Juice Box 33-41 Hz (Peak @ 37Hz) Bone Thugs n Harmony - Look Into My Eyes 20-59 Hz La Chat - Luv 2 Get High 31-39 Hz Anybody Killa - Come Out to Play 30-45 Hz MMFCL! KR - Level 2 30-40 Hz KR - Slaughter No Peaks, can be played in any setup E-40 - I'm Da Man 34 Hz Westside Connection - Hoo Bangin 25-38 Hz Sir Mixalot - My Posse's On Broadway 33 Hz Westside Connection - Bow Down 42 Hz Beastie Boys - Brass Monkey 34 Hz Axe Murda BoyZ - Zoned 25-52 Hz MMFCL! Axe Murda BoyZ - Threat 31 Hz MMFCL! Bone Thugs n Harmony - Body Rott 37-53 Hz T-Rock - Nigga Yeen Know 22-32 Hz HOLY #$^{:content:}amp; !! Quake 2 1-41 Hz That is not a typo! 3 6 Mafia - Tear Da Club Up (original) 50,84 Hz Lil Wyte - Oxy Cotton 30-47 Hz Lil Wyte - My Smokin Song 36-47 Hz Lil Jon - Whatcha Gonna Do 35, 53 Hz Insane Clown Posse - Rebel Flag 31-47 Hz MMFCL! Bone Crusher - Grippin the Grain 29-43 Hz Insane Clown Posse - Murder Murder Murder 31-51 Hz MMFCL! Bone Crusher - Never Scared 31-56 Hz Monoxide Child - That's Real 31-47 Hz MMFCL! Jamie Madrox - Take It 4 What It Is 36 Hz MMFCL! Gangsta Blac - Fly and Blac 31-49 Hz Twiztid - We Don't Die 35 Hz MMFCL! Twiztid - BagZ 32-49 Hz MMFCL! Twiztid - Nikateen 34 Hz MMFCL! Violent J - Let It Rain 12 Hz / 28-47 Hz MMFCL! Insane Clown Posse - Confessions 26-47 Hz MMFCL! Twiztid - Welcome 35 Hz MMFCL! Dark Lotus - Fire Rain 34 Hz MMFCL! Dark Lotus - Mah Jeh Mah 18,37 Hz MMFCL! Axe Murda Boyz - War Angels 28-48 Hz MMFCL! Bass Patrol - Twenty 15s 25-61 Hz Dr Crankenstein - 3 Beats 34,47 Hz DJ Magic Mike - Do You Like Bass 26-58 Hz L'Trimm - Cars That Go Boom 28,56 Hz Rob Gee - Let Da Bass Boom! 35 Hz Portishead - Machine Gun 32,42,69 Hz Twiztid - Fuck U 29-50 Hz MMFCL! EshaM - Helter Skkkelter 33 Hz MMFCL! Insane Clown Posse - Follow the Leader 35,45 Hz MMFCL! Native Funk - State of Mind 39 Hz MMFCL! (This is ABK, Anybody Killa when he was new to the game. People who know ABK will greatly appreciate this.. Listen to the song.. it's not about the bass, just a good song.) Anybody Killa - Gimme ah Beat 32-50 Hz MMFCL! House of Krazees - Fillin Dead 24,40Hz MMFCL! Mondoshawan 28Hz Plavalaguna 20Hz ICP - Murder Go Round 24,31,41Hz MMFCL! ICP - My Fun House 29-60Hz MMFCL!

i got 20 more handy.. and LOTS more songs U need to let everyone know if they want more songs, to let me know so i can host them somewhere so they can update them their-selves.

Each port is NOT tuned to 32hz. The combined port area is tuned to 32hz. If you were to plug one, your tuning would go DOWN, not stay the same. "Taking away from the pressure levels" is too vague of a statement to comment on. Narrow down your question so it can be answered better.

SPL-Lab SMART Monitor can do this but i prefer you do not purchase this device solely for this purpose. Setting your amp to put out exactly on average what the subwoofer is rated at will more than likely destroy the subwoofer. This isn't a numbers game. It's a nose, ear and smell game. Now, if you want the simplicity of preventing your equipment from getting damaged at all, you can use the SMART Monitor and it will trip the entire car audio setup before trouble increases but purely just to set the output of the amp, pointless.

Steve, hehe, that is tricky. Not being able to brace the windshield and able to do a mid 160....That's a tough one. I know you're a music guy so i can't tell you to tune way high.. The lower the frequency, the more likely the windshield will crack from pressure. Only immediate thing i can think of is if it does, let the windshield break, then replace with Poly and an excessive amount of resin or CA glue as well. That should prevent releasing the windshield and cracking under pressure. At that point, just find out how to make it appear street legal and it should be good. Unless the rules specifically say no Poly windshields, i'd do it if it can be looked at as an original. Push the rules to their limits. Again, i haven't found a way to have them look street legal so this limitation is a tough one.

Ah, now there you go... narrowin it down to USACi legal, lol.. I do not know their rules but you would of course. Sounds like you already know about alot of this which is good. The key thing to remember in the vehicle is to reinforce everything that you normally never see reinforced. Or, reinforce everything that has resonance or vibration... everything. Some things are impractical though per rules.

You do not need concrete to do a 160+ off 1 woofer, lol. All you need is very rigid bracing. Us competitors here did a 156.x few yrs ago at the headrest, MECA Street Legal with a single 15" sub on 5,000w. Everything in the SUV was stock install, 1 rear batt, 180A alt. Nothing modded to vehicle at all. Enclosure was braced with Marble from Finland. That's just the enclosure. If we were in a wall class, we would of had fun. Concrete is just too messy and too permanent. Research the specs of concrete and compare it to other alternatives that can be used and yes, you will spend a lot more money vs concrete but the material will be adjustable, unlike concrete. In the distant future, i've been toying with a near 170 daily driver idea i've had for a while but would take a LOT of money to pull off. This may help your 165 idea. I have an equipment and mod list i keep here for future projects. It would have to be a truck, welded topper, Under-carriage plated steel for weight reinforcement. Upgrade suspension as best as possible. Install 14.4K Slam Bags on the truck. Install approx 85-125Kw of power for daily and flood the cargo with cone area. About 16-24 18s. Estimate added weight- 7,000lbs. Roll cage windshield bracing with triple vertical anchors. I've researched going Poly-C Windshields but have not been able to figure out a sneaky way to prevent from being ticketed for it.

My brother is there mostly for moral support. haha. I built this enclosure all by my lonesome except for the paint. You don't build paint? Who does?

i've messed with sealed enclosures before and i've never gotten one to extend the low end like a low tuned ported enclosure. And the excursion levels for the sealed enclosures weren't all that great either.

It goes against what the Q is made for, SQ. I would not get the Q with the extra spider, if you are looking at a Q with the extra spider you would most likely be better off with a bl. If he were planning on tuning it WAY LOW, i would opt for another spider or if increasing power.

because you do not have enough power and you are going to run a sealed enclosure which controls excursion better over the playable range vs a ported enclosure below tuning.

If it's who i'm thinkin you are thinkin about, there is no color pink on the dustcap

Hey Steve, i was readin back about when Julian was talkin about air ride shockwaves. Find a local air suspension shop in your area and tell them you want Slam Bags put on your car, just for the rear because of the weight. That is what i have on my car. They are the most durable AND one the cheapest air solutions out there. They are also sold practically EVERYWHERE in storefronts. Mine costs about $90 per Bag. They are rated at 2,500lbs per bag. Specs are- 400PSI Maximum fill capacity. 750PSI Surge capacity. I have about 2,600lbs of weight total in the back of my car and i still have not broke 100PSI yet and my ride height is VERY close to stock height. I got them installed(they are a pure custom installation so welding is mandatory), lines ran, schrader valves installed all for $600. You can use a portable maintenance air compressor(the ones with the flashlight on them) as they can handle up to ~110-120PSI safely and have a cutoff sensor on them that can be set manually. Portable compressors go for $40 or less. They just run off 12v cig socket. No tank, no additional hardware period. Good thing is less places for a leak to pop up. With this setup, the only areas a leak can form is under the schrader valve, inside the valve stem itself(unlikely), fitting between the line and bag, the line itself(if it were cut or ruptured), or the bag itself(defect, noticeable immediately or massive accident).

Better as in slow blowing? From what i've "heard", certain brands of AGU fuses are the best at moving the most current before blowing. I hate AGU fuses so do not use them. I personally use MIDIs because they are very cheap and now even come up to 300A per fuse. Big ANLs are about $3-5 a piece, ridiculously priced compared to MIDIs. If you are wondering why the price difference, i guess because there is more material in the ANLs. More surface area on the blades themselves but there is still plenty of surface area on MIDIs so no worries there.

For electrical in the future- if you keep the same vehicle, use battery(ies) instead of upgraded alt and purchase a new VCM when it comes out. It will have some features that will benefit your situation.

Like i said, if same efficiency, then same current draw, same output. That's how it could be same efficiency. lets take 800w. 800w @1ohm = 28.3v 28.3a 800w @4ohm = 56.6v 14.15a Both at ~84% efficiency, then same current draw, same output, The End.

well, when you say same efficiency, then it would draw the same, but you are wrong. Efficiency is NOT the same at 1ohm vs 4 ohm. Efficiency levels on Class D amps at 4ohms is around 86-88%. 1ohm, around 78-82%

You need 6,000 AA batteries. take 10 in series = 15.0v and parallel then in sets of 10. Bad thing is this is a one time battery bank, play it while it lasts!