shizzzon

starting the upload process to photobucket

I will be uploading more pics soon. Let's say tonight. After tonight's pics, i wont be able to work on it again pretty much til after christmas. Christmas, 3 computers i need to work on, SPL-Lab needs a bunch of updating, etc...

Did you not order your 4/0 from www.wireandsupply.com ? $3/ft for poor flexibility and $4/ft for superior flexibility. And that other site i listed that sold 4/0 lugs for like $1.35 a piece.

They should never ban weapons.. What they should do is get this country innovative again... Sadly, we have these issues, but they need to install a scanner at every possible entrance at EVERY school in this country. If it triggers something, alarms go off throughout entire building and the halls are locked down. There should be a 3rd party monitoring company that would intercept video surveillance once building was locked down(trapped all suspects). They would contact the school to see if police need to be called, etc... Or if it's obvious, they'll do it themselves. That's how i see it.

Lol.. Ok, no booty pics.. but at least put it on a scale! Assuming it's not a neo motor, showtell us how heavy these beasts are.

Go back and look. I took the time to lay out an entire example for you in the best lamens terms i could possibly think of at the moment. If you understand it, then you will see why we keep saying no.

i know belt slip definitely influences the output potential of an alt but to not come on at all while driving, that should be definitely noticeable under the hood. And yea, i'm not too too familiar with single wire alts so that suggestion does sound stupid now, lol. Now, i see why the regulator was suggested.. what the hell else is left? My vote is the regulator now too, hehe.

ok, so there is ever only 1 alt in the vehicle but both alts do this... And for it to take so long, i'm assuming you are driving with RPMs over 1-2,000 easy.. It couldn't be your belt. Check and see if it kicks on at the Same Time every morning after starting vehicle or after putting it in gear. If it's time related, may be a computer issue with self-exciting alt. I want to say regulator issue possibly but weird the regulator would work normal after coming on and staying on.

Well, let's cover the basics first. Explain how you know it's running off battery only for 5 minutes before the alts kicks on. Also explain how you know the alts kick on AND how you know both of them are kicking on together.

I'm not a mechanic hobbyist but when does Lean not kill an automobile when in motion over a prolong period?

I can answer you further Swift- Since this question has to do with a previous thread i was answering earlier, lol.. Don't focus on the final ohm load, which would be 4 ohm, focus on the SOURCE. The Source is single 8ohm per driver. Therefore, you would obey it's TS parameters regardless of wiring configuration. The imaging and tuning technique will by far exceed the ability of the TS parameters to throw off the quality of sound you assume to get at any point during or after installation when comparing the same driver, just different coil preference.

I am Dr. Inventory.

He's not talking about what it does at the amp but at each sub and each coil. Ok, this is as easy as it gets- The perfect example- 1089w @1ohm This is 33v 33a Let's take 2 DVC 1 ohm coiled subs. Our final load will be wired to 1ohm to the amp. Both subs series'd first (2ohm per sub) then paralleled to amp(1ohm) Each sub would see- 33v 16.5a (this is 2ohm which equals-544.5w Each coil will see- 16.5v 16.5a (this is 1ohm which is per coil which equals- 272.25w) Notice how both individual coils will read 16.5v 16.5a but as a whole, each sub would be 33v, 16.5a Why? Series... Remember when strapping amps(in series), voltage doubles, current stays the same. Now, let's reverse it- Let's parallel each sub first then series at amp. Both subs paralleled first(0.5ohm per sub) then series'd to amp(1ohm) Each sub would see- 16.5v 33a (this is 0.5ohm which equals-544.5w) Each coil would see- 16.5v 16.5a (this is 1ohm which is per coil which equals- 272.25w) So when you get down to it, comparing coil to coil, they will both receive the exact same voltage and current. I say your D9 is clipping or putting out more power.

look below.. my phone typo-ed some stuff way off, lol

I did. They sell Zinc plated bolts. Not as corrosion resistant as i'd like but better than nothing.

Looking for something other than plain or Black Oxide coated M8-M10s Class 12.9 that are available up to 110-120mm long. These will be used for Alternator mounting and it's not direct bolt-on so highest strength possible is being applied here.

I've posted this same idea before and Nick helped me out on understanding it. There is no advantage to wiring in series first or parallel first or strapping vs not strapping, it's all the same power in the end. If we were to magically get less current by doing some exotic wiring, then ohms law would need to be revised.

unless you wanna run them in about 1.3-1.5cuft per sub, it's not ideal.

I hope that's 4 10s because anything bigger, it won't sound good at all with 4 installed.

the whole reason there is a Fi brand is to allow customization per order. If they allowed the US to stock what they offer now, then it wouldn't be customized anymore. And if all that were true, then that would mean that would be their answer to moving product out quicker. And if that's true, that's not a good idea.

So, I figured this should be in the Advanced topic section because unless i'm the first with XS Wireless batteries, something abnormal is happening here. I've been testing and noticing some odd readings last night but i'll leave that aside for now... The new reading i got today was just flat out impossible- I have 1 12v battery sitting here. IT HAS NOTHING connected to it's positive terminal! Nothing is touching it, ran to it, etc. The ground terminal is paralleled with 11 other batteries. I set meter to Ohms. Probe the Positive terminal to the battery that has nothing on it. The other probe is ran to the Positive terminal to the next closest battery that is paralleled via Ground. Ohm reading- 0.0 ohms! Explain how this is possible. Again, i am getting a dead short reading from probing 2 positive terminals on 2 different batteries but there is NOTHING connecting the two together. In hopes that this is figured out may lead to other things in the setup being resolved.

Well, this has made a good convo for future reference. Thanks, man.

Well, that's sounds true. Backfeeding through the meter. I can say i have no continuity from any power to ground sources yet, lol. so far so good.

And this has nothing to do with troubleshooting, i was talking with someone about this last night and did it again this morning to confirm what i was seeing was true- When using the Ohm setting, polarity is pointless unlike when testing for voltage, etc.. Well, i do not know if my meter is Super smart or coincidentally downright stupid, but this is something else i've noticed- For kicks- I probe the power and ground terminal of an amp that is not connected to a battery yet. I put pos probe in power, neg probe in ground, it reads 0L like it should. If i put pos probe in Ground terminal and neg probe in Power terminal, it reads -0.00ohms This reading is lower than touching probes together, BUT, what's interesting is the - sign next to it. I didn't know meters knew polarity differences when using ohm setting.