shizzzon

that is the 2nd time you said USP batteries. Do Not tell him about the United States Parcel batteries! They are in constant transit and never get delivered.

UPS batts do not last as long as car audio AGM batteries do or automotive AGM batteries. For any rechargeable battery, the more cycles they go through, the less it can hold a charge at a specified voltage that it once was able to. that means eventually, if it rests at 13.1v, it will start resting at 13.0, 12.9v and so on and be considered fully charged. ALL UPS batteries i have ever done research on are always the same thing... They may share the same aH as the competition but they do not have as much MA(SCA) or PHCA unless they are much heavier in comparison to automotive AGM batteries. Now, some people need not care about an extra ~20lbs for burst equivalent performance but the cycle life of these batteries is about 30 to sometimes over 50% LESS than automotive AGM batts. the money you save now will be spent again in a couplefew years on replacing them due to deterioration and they are already 2.5yrs old. That's even worse.

Editing ability is very important! I use DxO Optics Pro for RAW editing. I have Lightroom too, just never used it yet.

Yea man when i was working on my battery bank back in the summer, i had a bunch of 2x4s all cut up in weird shapes i was going to use for something in the build. I had them all around the car and i just got done using one and laid it across both terminals of the same battery. Now, we know wood is not conductive but it cannot be considered an insulator(now i know) because it can retain and absorb liquid. When i laid that 2x4 down, i was bent over too, when it happened... Large ass arc manifested right at the power terminal and shot the 2x4 right off. I took my hand and felt all over that 2x4. I couldn't feel nothing wet or anything else for that matter on the 2x4 but for safety sake, i consider all wood and metallic objects in the vehicle as a ground source so all power cables are protected from possibly getting cut around wood and all power blocks were raised above the wood with insulators because ground blocks rest on the same wooden panels as the power blocks do.. Hehe, 31,000MA of power is something i do not want to see in my car.

Hey man, your install is lookin great but i NEED to tell you this ASAP before something bad happens. Your copper buss bar fusing system is a fire hazard. Long story short from experience building mine, if and when that wood absorbs moisture in the air, it will conduct electricity. It looks like you have the wood screwed into Ground. If that's true, i strongly suggest you remove the fusing and buss bar ASAP and put an insulator under the mounting area where the buss bars screw into the wood. I use GPO3 Fiberglass Insulation. There are many insulators out there.. Many glass sheeting Lowes sells can be considered an electrical insulator.

i guess we can say this is the FIRST symptom from a Scion Tc with excessive car audio install. Brake light indicator malfunction... Check. Pretty good if that's all there is considering 1200lbs of epicness waiting to be turned on.

your right, i got hawks on the front now and are way better. I'll be gettin new slotted rotors and new hawks pads and new SS brake lines(comes with it all) For the rear.. i'll probably opt for something better than stock just because of the weight i have right now. I may or may not replace the rear rotors. If they are in pretty good shape, then i'll leave em alone. I cant take hard corners anymore because of the weight but as of right now.. now it's doing it everytime i let off the brake... It only comes on when i let off the brake.. but my braking performance has not changed so i'm just going to wait another month and get all the new brake stuff put on and if it still does it then.. then we know it's an internal issue somewhere.

if u did then i wouldnt have built it, lol.. Just messin with ya, haha. I am motivated more than i can ever be..

As long as your worst voltage drop is above 12.0v, then you should have nothing to worry about for the long run. IF you are dipping below that, i would work with what ya got(different topic) in making sure everything is in top notch shape and install before adding another battery. Another battery is never going to negatively effect something if nothing is damaged or malfunctioned right now, but the cost of a battery to only give minute gain in performance is a waste of money. And personally, while i love XS, any type of AGM battery would work in your situation assuming it's for automotive use. Whether it be high rate or deep cycle, you do not have enough current demand for it to matter all that much. But i WOULD like to say again as long as it's for automotive use. Other uses, from my own research, will only lead to low cycle life compared to automotive batts. UPS batts are what i'm referring to. They will not last as long as an auto AGM batt canwill. The length of life is determined by the application and user preference but i like my equipment to last as long as possible.

Wow! Awesome! I wouldn't have thought i would be visited but thanks for saying that! Anyways, this build is a learning experience not just for me but for many... We'll all have fun with this build. Able to run a single speaker in as large as 20+cuft at a time or smaller with a flip of a switch... Able to add on excessive amounts of wire, etc.. measure realtime data during demos, competing, etc.. 2013 will definitely be a year we don't want to forget.

Well.. i have 2 issues with the car right now that need to be addressed while i am building this beast of an install. Problem one- Wheel alignment test failed all 4 wheels. Now, that doesn't come to a surprise, but an alignment will be done days after christmas. Problem two- Brake light likes to come on everytime i take off from a stopped position. Dealership at this time does not know why... The pads, rotors and fluid all check good enough to not trip the sensor. The light only comes on when i take off at a decent pace. If i take off super slow, it will never come on but if i take off faster than anyone else, then it will come on and go off few seconds later. No, i'm far from burning rubber, lol. I keep reading on other forums that even though the dealership is saying the brake system is within spec.. it really isnt. I'm being advised to force the dealership to top off the brake fluid reservoir damn near and then drive it around. The dealership told me that when the car is at rest, that they do not allow the reservoir to go past half or just barely past half. I'm being told that that's too low for USED brake pads. They said i'm below halfway mark on pads which is fine, i'm gettin new everything soon anyways but because of the loss of padrotor, the distance for the pads to reach requires more fluid which dumps the reservoir tripping the sensor. I do not know how the sensor works.. but it only come on when i accelerate fast from a stopped position.. It NEVER comes on when i stop fast then go fast again without completely stopping so i dont know.. It's been doing it for a while but the brakes still work fine so who knows... I guess i'll just not worry about it and get the new brake system in a month or so then when it's installed, if it's still doing it.. THEN we will see what's up. Oh.. and progress is going nicely with the build. One major thing left to do somewhat soon.. and if it goes well.. expect an ETA of the build to be in working order. As bigjon said, this will move into early 2013 before it's ready.

You never need high excursion for SPL oriented subs. So these are the Beasts, the Ultimate in Low end reproduction. The Devil of Silence, The Conqueror of destruction, the Wrath of Single Digit frequencies, The Wave of Terror, Basically, when you mount these, you will need to put a seatbelt around them because they will move.

oh ok, that's fine then. But then my next question is.. how was the template made? Is it basically done by freehand?

quick question. IF you ever do go oval shaped, how do you cut an oval with a router? Do you set 2 center points vs 1?

Quentin is actually thinking ahead which is good. It's not the point that people don't need the large wire size due to current, it's the point that people will use it to PREVENT VOLTAGE DROP. With all the runs people do for power and ground.. yet no one thinks about multi runs for speaker wire. Here's your chance.

From what I understand, only meca requires fusing as of right now. Dbdrag, iasca, usaci... all I hear from people is- u run fuses?

lol, yea i remember that video. The cool thing about that install is everything works.. As remarkably crazy as it looks. The over-excessive voltmeters is redundant but he had an idea and he did it and it's functional and wala.. Plan on buying a tablet next year to be used as a server for audio and video distribution and while i'm on the road, i can use it to surf the net instead of my phone. But the tablet install will need to look somewhat professional because i want it out of sight when not in use and in the perfect position when in use.

I wont take a pic of that until it's about done because i still need to rebrace the wall, finish building the port, seal off all leaks in the wall and pull out all 4 subs and resin steel plating behind the baffle for mounting reinforcement.

I'm workin on it.. Cosmetically, the back can't be covered up.. there is too many things back there that need access at all times and too much cabling to hide... I wish i could make it look better but that was the sacrifice i had to choose. Hopefully by next summer when i attempt to glass the doors, i'll try and make the roof and baffle look good with it.

Lol, you are right! time is moving too fast.

Just wait til i get it done.. I wont be scaring people from the bass, i'll just pop the back open and film their reactions.. AHHHHHHHHHHHHH! It will be priceless, hehe. You know.. i should take my car to Autozone and have them wheel out their battery machine. I'll tell them i have a battery in the back that needs to be tested.. Wonder what they would say, lol.

Tell me about it man.. It is the worst cosmetic install anyone can possibly do without options... The goal is to have the most conductivity(multi runs of cable and custom blocks) and the most equipment installed in this car.. Well, like chicagofan tells me.... Like puttin 100lbs in a 5lb bag, lol. But i do operate on safety first. With as "dangerous" as it looks, i use THREE different methods of securing all LIVE blocks and cabling. They are epoxied down, bolted down and zip tied down to prevent movement and failure of any one fastening method.

0.35, 1.4 or 5.6 ohms

Ya! caps hold charge for quite a while.. I bought a refurb'd sundown 100.4 from DB-r one time and when i was tightening one of the speaker wires, the screw driver shaft touched both the speaker wire terminal and heatsink at the same time and SHOCK, POP, ARC all in my face. Keep in mind the inline fuse on the power wire wasn't even in yet. So i called up DB-r and told him what happened and asked if i could have damaged something.. He said not likely, laughing while telling me, these sundown amps have a lot of capacitance inside and that's what you seen discharge when the driver hit the heatsink. Of course i can touch it all i want to now(at that time) because i just discharged em all, hehe.

This is the MASTER Remote wire that will control the ability to run Any of 4 subs at a time or in combinations of 2, 3 or 4 at a time. This master terminal wire also allows me to disable all mids and highs when doing burps to save on power. That's it for now.