shizzzon

Oh.. so you are creating 3 different driver lines? This one, the beast one i was referring to and the ~$300 line just under 2krms line? i think that's the mmag? So, if there are three lines, then what's the goal differences between the Trident and the "beast" version i was referring to? I wasn't aware you were designing two lines capable of being slapped in the back of the head using a wall at the B pillar.

u know, lol.. a vision just popped in my head... lmao.. If someone had 2 of those, turn each of them over on their side with the magnets facing each other. then get you like a 4ft non-magnetic rodpole and anchor both subs at each end. That alone would be some serious SMD bench pressing.

i'm not tech savvy when it comes to sub design but i have a question. Can you elaborate on somethings so i know what i'm reading vs what i heard from you in the past syncs up with my mind, hehe. Xmax, 62mm @10% and 70mm at 70% BL. Projected xmax is 75mm. Is this still a goal or not possible? PE max- over 6krms. What does that mean exactly? There must be a time frame for that measurement. Is it a burst of that power for a second or a near constant value for a certain amount of time? Cooling- well.. hehe, with 75 motors on this thing, is it's cooling ability going to be better than most to all things on the market or is it not all that necessary to be concerned about it? And BL- ~15 T/M When I understood that this beast would have more motor force than anything i've ever seen before, i was under impression the BL would be ungodly high? Why is it not? And lastly.. SPL- 91db @2.83v Now, i know many high powered subs do not have this published at all but from what you may know, is this value greater than other high powered speakers they tested? I know the SPL graph is a peak reading of efficiency. What did the graph look like for this design (just a modeling of it if it's all you have) compared to others you may have seen?

I have changed the topic of the thread for optimistic purposes. I GUARANTEE i will get this build done before the deadline this time!

Yea.. how does $19 sound for 2 bolts... must be extreme low demand. They are- M10 1.25 pitch 100mm length Class 12.9 Zinc plated hex head. M8 1.25 pitch 60mm length Class 12.9 Zinc plated Allen head. There is a reason why I chose allen head for smaller one.. it will make install 55x easier, lol

That means they'll only fit the speakers on the right, Now we have to wait for the left recones...

Well.. another delay again.. I had to special order some rare bolts because all of our local Fastenal and fastener specialists do not stock certain ultra fine thread metric bolts... Ugh.... guess i'll work on something else while i wait.

yea.. but i cant say exactly what the current should be.. but current is in correlation with voltage too.. You can have 30v on a 12v batt but the current would need to be extremely minute. But in reality, the higher in voltage you exceed past the marginal range of operation, the more and more that current needs to be greatly reduced and i mean greatly. But current alone isn't the killer.. it's in conjunction with the voltage level that determines how much current is too much. That means, if 20A of current is perfectly fine at this voltage level.. but at this level it's disastrous.

The VCM Revision is coming man.. Not tomorrow but it is coming and will be ready for MANY vehicles.

it's not an opinion, it's Battery fact. IF you choose to ignore it, then it's only hurting yourself. Knowing how equipment works will far excel your install and knowledge on doing custom integration with things. I have explained how it works in an automotive environment how there can be a window of leniency with charging recommendations but it's still not wise to assume such case to be fine. Suggestions given from the manufacturer's themselves.. East-Penn, Enersys, etc.. are all derived for one main purpose- getting the life out of your AGM batteries based on the rating they are given. Failure to abide by these recommendations will reduce the life expectancy of such equipment. Same thing goes for anything.. Play at the edge of disaster and life expectancy is greatly reduced.

it's like owning a vehicle.. you trade it in for something better.. The only problem with vehicles is, we never get to the most $$$ ones out there because there is not enough time to gain that much money. Now, in the car audio world, just how far are you willing to go to reach the pinnacle of equipment for your goals? There is always things being made so there's no telling what the best is for anyone's particular install. It just keeps getting more and more expensive.

Just FYI, there is a customer who has a DC 9.0k @1ohm on each of his DC level6s for daily without thermal issues. It's possible. The drivers are there.. The new subs made by.. can't remember buildhouse name are being made for Cadence and some other companies. They are rated at 6,000wrms.

Just like with 12v, buy some, test, buy more if necessary. XS' wattage suggestions state (this is for 16v batts so i'll assume the same for 14v)- 3000w for daily per batt 1500w for burps per batt

Point out one thing that's contradicting. Then you will realize that after you can't you need to re-read everything i've explained and comprehend it better.

Ok, i'm not mobile anymore so no more typos, lol. What i want to say also is AGM is AGM. The charging requirement for ALL AGMs are the same even though some state generalizations and others are very specific. For automotive, XS has it dead on. 14.0-14.4v is the sweet spot for extreme longevity use out of batteries. Each cell at full charge is normally around 2.17v which equals 13.0v. Each cell's sweet spot charge range is 2.33-2.4v So, take this into account for 14v- Rest voltage should be 15.2v Charge voltage should be between 16.3-16.8v with a maximum AGM standard of 17.15v and NEVER prolonged periods over 17.4v When a user increases voltage over the safe margin, current must be decreased greatly. Otherwise, the life of the battery will be severely reduced and eventually, if always charging higher than normal, within 0-3yrs likely, the battery will vent and die. AGMs should last a decade when treated properly with about 20-40% loss of capacity. Just because going beyond all safety margins of both voltage and current doesn't immediately kill the batt, doesn't mean nothing bad is happening.

Is that the voltage you maintain while burping or doing averaging? If its not, then that's why you are fine. It won't dump a load in the batts if there is no deman. Also, once the load is over, d you rev and keep the vehicle revved above 2krpm? If not then that's why you do not have a problem either. Idle output on a bank is minute current per battery which is not dangerous.

In automotive, do not ever charge an agm higher Than 14.9. The alternator's charging current is not suppressable Nor regulated so its highly likely it would vent. You can charge an agm on a charger way higher than 15v As long as the current is controlled/monitored and turned way down. That method is called training once you dump the reserve out of A battery a few times.

The super cop story was goin really well

well, actually, i'm sure major brands of Enersys such as Odyssey have an enormous bulk order that surpasses any popular car audio branded agm batt recommmended on the forums. I dont know kinetik specs by heart but compare the HC2400 to this. That batt is the G31.

What he means is he has 5 chances of setting to any of those center frequencies. He has a 5 band "variable" (parametric) EQ. Once he choose any of those 5 center frequencies, he's maxed out. Parametric is usually more requested than graphic which is a forced set of center frequencies. Reason being is it's highly unlikely that every center frequency is wrong in the vehicle. So, to save money and time, parametric EQ is more ideal.

That circuit design is the exact same design back when cell phones were pretty much new on the market. For THOSE phones, yea they worked for them. Now, for the seller selling them on ebay, he should be sued or reported to ebay for false advertising because NO smartphone on this planet would benefit from those whatsoever. It's a different ball game with different technology now. IT's the provider's fault for not having a tower or enough trafficked bandwidth capable in certain areas. I have plenty of issues with trafficked areas where i live and it irritates the hell out of me.

I had the privilege of hearing a new Q along with Swift's SP4s quite a few times. And we've all seen the Q vs BL threads.. And no disrespect to the redundancy answers given to those threads = BL.... But, I have to publicly say this to express my audible opinion. I have always been an SPL guy. I'm no where near the best at burping in competition but i've always liked it loud. I never wanted to jump into SQ because SQ is many times more complicated than SPL is. But, after hearing the Q and SP4.. i'm dumbfounded. The Q is basically the son of the SP4. Insanely quality sounding drivers at a level unknown to those who haven't experienced it. We all have that feeling of, we like it loud but if it sounds perfect.. Then it's heaven.. I'm telling anyone, the Q or SP4 isshould be the foundation of what represents the Fi name because after hearing them, it almost makes one rethink their audio goals for any type of installation. When I heard the Q recently, it was reproducing frequency peaks in music in the low to mid 20Hz range! Now, how many drivers specifically excel in that range? Not many..... And I listen to it with such perfection. In the perfect sized enclosure tuned below 30hz, it is just what i needed to hear. But back on topic.... I'm surprised the original Qs were only ~30lbs compared to now. That's like night and day difference there.

My opinion.. We do not need anymore battery brands unless something new in science were discovered and implemented into this hobby... Crescendo brand does price their equipment very competitively but something has me concerned here- their G31 batt is $279 with FREE shipping. That means the money they receive is actually lower than any other G31 car audio AGM batt out there which raises performance questions... Most batteries are always built by the same source, just slight changes and that's it.. Same casing, same charge requirements, same cycle life practically, noticed they are using pure virgin lead like many others too, same wattage recommendations as XS.. but their aH is higher than XS..but without the added weight of it.. That is assumed that either the wattage recommendation or specs are inflated. Simply put, your aH or reserve cannot increase without weight over another brand as battery manufacturing is all almost the same practically. XS G31s are 77lbs, same as odyssey.. oops.. Dekas and kinetiks are just under 70lbs. UPS batts and other cheaper batts require heavier weight, IE, larger aH ratings to reach the burst potential of XS, Odyssey, Stinger, Batcap, etc.. But since their batts defy battery logic.. i would say that i see no dieing need to use these when Diehard platinums are available with immediate warranty replacement. And i have a funny feeling the Diehard's, despite published specs between the two, can probably sustain higher voltage on a burp. But.. prove my thinking wrong.. i have done lots of research on batts and talked to several companies.. nothing extremely different changes from one brand to another.

Well, put the dmm on the speaker outputs on the amp set to AC voltage with range limited to triple digits. IE- 200 for example. Play a test tone, single frequency. Peak hold the meter as well when doing this. See what voltage you get. Assuming you are trying to drive this amp well, i would assume the amp is operating normally (wired at 1 ohm) with a voltage output range between 55-80v. Clipping the signal or not, if your voltage does not reach at least 55, then either it's not turned up enough, your crossover's are too narrow, your gain is too low, your sub is wired wrong(possibly blown coil), or something is very wrong... When the amp is COMPLETELY off, set dmm to ohms and measure value at speaker terminal. If value is greater than 1.2ohms, then either you have a damaged coil or something has came loose inside the box.

try running just the master amp by itself then again with it strapped. If it only protects when strapped, then make the master the slave and the slave the master. If it still does it, then something is damaged or incompatible with each other. Gain matching would be more ideal if you have to do it.