shizzzon

i'm doin all the work so it should be ready by 2017. Nah, lol.. i'm not building it, lol.

Conspiracy theorists prey on misinformation. Why do you think it's so popular among this story and 9/11? If the media gets immediate access to it while it is or just happened, there will be tons of misinformation said because nothing can be proven as fact when it's live and stated from those in shock and still putting pieces together. Now, what if a massive tragedy happened but the media had to wait 30days before ever letting the public know anything about it.. No more conspiracy issues to feed off of.

unhook rcas from amp, power back on. measure dc voltage at amp and see what it says. If your lights are dimming and that's the only amp you have pulling aftermarket current, then sounds like your altbattery(ies) are dying as well if you do not inspect and fix immediately.

Hey swift, hehe, where in the hell did you find a product that can highpass 12-15khz and up? I didn't know there were processors out there that went that high unless it's completely computer controlled and i've just never read specs.

i am about to start testing where the wall is peaking at with no port and then take a cabin gain response graph of the vehicle soon to find out how this new wall will effect response. As of right now, it sounds audibly around 57-65hz peaking with no port. Also audibly, with 2 subs playing on ~6400w wired, it doesnt sound deafening at all.. but now have all 4 subs playing(all tuned differently, lol) so the measured peak spl numbers will be of the worst capability but response graphs do not need total tuning for accuracy.

new update- Head Unit Operations- PASS Bass amp 1- PASS Bass amp 2- PASS Bass amp 3- PASS Bass amp 4- PASS Highs amp 1- PASS, but requires turn off pop eliminator.= getting better without it. Highs amp 2- PASS Processor 1- PASS, induces Signal distortion only at or below vol. 1! Processor 2- FAIL, Output 4 of 4 is dead. Induced signal distortion has been eliminated.. Fusing throughout- PASS RCA signal detection- PASS Voltage stability- PASS Current stability- Not tested yet Subwoofer 1- PASS Subwoofer 2- PASS Subwoofer 3- PASS Subwoofer 4- PASS 8" 1- PASS 8" 2- PASS 8" 3- PASS 8" 4- PASS Tweeter 1- PASS Tweeter 2- PASS Master Relay switch- PASS Ground Loop Detected? NEGATIVE. PASS AC Signal Distortion? YES but inaudible during playback above vol. 1

Here is the newest update- Head Unit Operations- PASS Bass amp 1- PASS Bass amp 2- PASS Bass amp 3- PASS Bass amp 4- PASS Highs amp 1- PASS, but requires turn off pop eliminator. Highs amp 2- PASS Processor 1- PASS, induces Signal distortion that will be investigated later at low volume (1-6 out of 35) Processor 2- FAIL, Output 4 of 4 is dead. Also induces signal distortion which attributes to volume range 1-6 of 35. Fusing throughout- PASS RCA signal detection- PASS Voltage stability- PASS Current stability- Not tested yet Subwoofer 1- PASS Subwoofer 2- PASS Subwoofer 3- PASS Subwoofer 4- PASS 8" 1- PASS 8" 2- PASS 8" 3- PASS 8" 4- PASS Tweeter 1- PASS Tweeter 2- PASS Master Relay switch- PASS Ground Loop Detected? NEGATIVE. PASS AC Signal Distortion? YES but inaudible during playback. Will investigate later.

The following will be updated once i get to that stage today... Currently having to re-wire some tweeters.... i forgot too, lol. Once that's done, i have to repair one wire run then go over everything very carefully then prepare to check the following with status- Checklist of functionality- Head Unit Operations- Bass amp 1 Bass amp 2 Bass amp 3 Bass amp 4 Highs amp 1 Highs amp 2 Processor 1 Processor 2 Fusing throughout- RCA signal detection- Voltage stability- Current stability- Subwoofer 1 Subwoofer 2 Subwoofer 3 Subwoofer 4 8" 1 8" 2 8" 3 8" 4 Tweeter 1 Tweeter 2 Master Relay switch Ground Loop Detected? AC Signal Distortion? I will post with results once i have them...

hehe, no, i do not plan on showing it's potential off until it's tuned, tweaked and i am fully aware of what i just accomplished.

Now, for some reason.. the battery charger is now complete and un-needed for probably quite a long time now, This week will be interesting...

JL Audio subs do pretty well in sealed enclosures loud-wise if you can get any used. Referencing the W6 and W7s.

When they say "they'll be over..." that's just to be expected because they have or have read what normally happens when measuring it. Again, if this is for daily driving, do not attempt or expect to wire below the minimum advertised ohm load. Doing so will require far more knowledge than just knowing what this topic is about.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10092_EFX-RLC-by-Scosche.html

it's impedance curve, not rise and i guarantee you it exists. There is the estimates way of measuring it- Multimeter and Ammeter via AC obtains impedance minus phasingTrue RMS/ Vital Power and SPL-Lab both make devices used to measure these values if you want to keep them installed in your vehicle. The SPL-Lab measures using TRUE RMS method. But all in all, for daily driving, it's nothing to worry about.

Clipping lights work on solid sine wave test tones accurately only. When using them to detect clipping with a dynamic signal, they will be less accurate.

Huh... for some reason, my battery charger is being used excessively today...

I responded.... As far as i know, i have nothing to worry about.. The only thing that has changed since then is the extreme slow pace of my build log but i do not think the doctor could help fix that.

alternator should be working fine based on info given. High voltage and he hasn't gotten stranded anywhere from not charging.. 2 things you should really own in car audio- dmm and ammeter. You can clamp the alt to see what the max current it's putting out but it will be a waste of money. I can tell you 100% it's not the alternator. The problem is this- Vehicles who do not have a dedicated ground run from front to rear will experience up to a FULL 1 volt drop in voltage during max load or after a load has been presented on the cable itself. Once this happens, a user can measure voltage differences and see the problem. You have never told us where you are measuring your voltage drop at so i can only assume at the amp itself, correct? Try measuring voltage drop DIRECTLY on the alternator. If it's a lot better like in the high 12s at least, then that's your problem. You would need to do what was suggested earlier- Small batt up front, D3400 in the rear. And take it from someone who tests these things- if you got more than 1 battery in the car, the front battery will not help hardly at all unless you run enough cables to compensate for the potential voltage drop from front to rear VS amp to rear batt.. Imagine how many cables that will take By the time you figure out the cost, you could have bought another battery,

yea, this happened a while back. Turns out, wasn't a lymph node, just a small cyst. They decided not to cut it out because by the time i had an appointment, it had already started to go back down. Now, the weird thing is how far back that was, it's still there. It's barely there but it's just being stationary.

i dont want to see homemade porno

u missed my joke.. i should have typed more. You like "tight bass" hehe..

lol i like the tight bass sound that ported just dont have Yea cuz you still a car audio virgin. Once you get in, you don't leave, then come back then leave then come back. Sounds like a bad relationship. I'd take something low dollar and turn it into an extreme low end design if you like that style of music or should i say sound effects, lol.

Yea, i'll try n get more soon. I'm just tryin to get this build at least to the point of working without error so i can get a LOT more free time back for myself.

So, if someone built a sub that could handle 30,000w for 3 hrs.. they would win.. It could be extremely in-efficient but that doesn't matter because this test is just testing the thermal and mechanical limitations ONLY. So.. while it has it's own meaning for certain people.. i was under the impression if someone were to compare their speakers with another, it would be to show who has the loudest, cleanest, durable, performance to ratio, etc... Not, who can take a beating the longest without any knowledge of how it sounds, is sealed enclosure THE recommended style?, improper power measurements and no dB reading.. At the very least, one factor that impresses most is how loud one speaker is over another regardless if 15 variables are being overlooked intentionally or not and that wasn't done either.. Maybe SSA should "independently" do a test. We'll just get all of our vendors together and go crazy.

Interesting question! I'll answer it as many probably wonder the same thing.. I work 1st shift 6 days a week. I also work with SPL-Lab 247 nearly and are working on some new things right now that have me tied up. I also do audio editing as you may see with the music i mod. I also do video editing for custom requests. I also am a Beta tester. I signed an NDA so I cannot tell you who i Beta test for. I also repair and build computers too. I currently am booked up on repairing laptops right now. I am also in the middle of recoding our website. We have a new software engineer with a whole new template and i have been working on it for weeks now. And i work on my build.. Probably 3hrs during the week and about 14hrs on the weekend. Many things require special order because the likes of my build is rare and parts are scarce. Also, you have to see it in person, because i have literally installed more things into a small car than you can possibly imagine and i am STILL thinking of more to add and mod once it comes in. There has been a period of about 1.5months of failure that had be delayed in summer of 2012 due to 3 blown suspensions. This isn't a typical wall build. I did the typical wall build in 2009.. this is something bizarre.