shizzzon

Lol, well, i would have posted it but since i haven't looked at it in like 5 months, i forgot the name.. let me find it. I know all the specs so hopefully wont take too long to find. IT's basically considered the best AGM charger possible on this planet.

I think i know what shizzz's post is saying, let me explain- In my vehicle, i have 12 batts in the back. They are divided in 4 sets of 3. Instead of trying to charge all 12 separate, I have the ability to separate them when troubleshooting and charging 3 at a time. Normally, I WOULD charge all 12 at a time because they are all the same make, model and age and it's power distribution is completely uniform. For batteries that are not all the same, previous posts have explained it well. It will "work" to charge em all together but i'm after longevity and if i can get an extra 1-3yrs out of my batts after 5yrs of use, then i will follow recommendations. to PROPERLY charge a bank regardless of model, etc.. is to use a charger with an equalizer function on it. As long as all the batts are of the same technology, this shouldnt be an issue. I'll be buying a charger like this soon. Cheapest good one i found is around $220 but well worth it.

Might want to recheck the pricing on the 3500d in that pic.. unless you guys are just giving away power,

Let me tell you i'm completely new and amateurish to active front stage but i'm running 2way active now with generic x-over points before i have time to RTA them and see what needs to be addressed but for first time,2way is PLENTY for active response. I would hate to imagine what 3way would add to a headache of a mess to processing it would take.

the only way a sub cannot move down manually is if it's FIXED in the UPWARD motion. This would prevent the former from falling back in the gap. And trust me, anyone would know what that would look like and be extremely abnormal looking.

i'm not an alt build guy so i do not know what causes this or that.. etc.. So i'll try and get you to understand what i said unless i am clueless and you know more about it, which is highly possible too, hehe. Take 2 alts rated at 250A Brand A is rewound Brand B is reputable High Output. For both brands, they will only do 210A max HOT, that's just how it is. Now, Brand B si rated to do 180A idle(650rpm), but that's cold, Hot rating is 140A Brand A(rewound) only does ~40A at idle. So at idle, you have power fluctuation in your lighting. Whether this is caused from too large a pulley or something else, i do not know. I just know that rewound alts always have extremely poor idle output and when questioned about it, the answer is always.. it's impossible to get such high output at idle(IE over 100A which we ALL know is possible).. so then they are dumbfounded when shown proof.

When in a wreck, assume, because you have a problem, that literally everything is wired wrong. So, i'd literally start from scratch all the way to the headunit(minus the wire harness(we hope)).

One more day! Due to upcoming changes, our group buys are going to start happening extremely seldom from now on so do not miss out on these savings!

This will be the last group buy from SPL-Lab before we re-design our website and publicize our rep and retailer base more effectively. We have some new revisions of our products to go over, cheaper group buy prices, combo deals and SMART Monitor all tied in on this one! Group buy starts NOW and ends Feb 17th, 11:59pm EST We will not be offering custom calibrations with this group buy because of some new revisions to our products You will see the specs listed below. To be a part of the group buy, please PM me your email address and we will send you an invoice to be paid for $165 via Paypal or using Paypal processing. You can either pay that amount or pay in full by letting us know to invoice for full amount. Remainder amount needs to be paid within 60 days from now. All Group buy orders are expected to ship right around the time the group buy is over and quite possibly sooner! NOTE- when paying, please let us know what you are purchasing. Below is what we offer- For information on our meters, please visit our website at- SPL LAB USA USB Meter- 110-183dB 10hz-120hz NEW for 2013 Price - $319 Group buy LCD Meter- 120-180dB 20hz-120hz Price - $379 Group Buy USB Pro Meter- 110-183dB 10hz-120hz NEW for 2013 Price - $499 Group Buy Wireless Bluetooth Meter- 120-180dB 20hz-120hz Price - $379 Group Buy USB Noise Meter-(RTA)- 80-140dB 10hz-15000hz NEW for 2013 Price - $229 Group Buy RTA Pro Meter-(RTA)- 90-130dB 10hz-20000hz NEW for 2013 Price - $339 Group Buy SMART Monitor- Protect and measure AC and DC voltage and current DC- 0-200A protection and measuring. 0-30V protection and measuring. AC- 0-100A protection and measuring. 10-300V protection and measuring. Uses TRUE RMS measuring algorithm. Onboard Flashable Rom to allow measuring in realtime the following- Clipping AC Wattage output Impedance "Rise" User can easily flash back to use for protection of circuits and drivers in vehicle. Full Group Buy Price- $329 Group Buy Price with only 1 DC or 1 AC sensor- $284 User can purchase additional sensor anytime in the future if need be for $55. Combo Group Buy Pricing- Purchase any SPL Meter (usb, usb pro, lcd, wireless) and the RTA Pro and receive $50 discount. Purchase any SPL Meter (usb, usb pro, lcd, wireless) and the USB Noise Meter and receive $30 discount. Purchase any meter and the SMART Monitor and receive a $40 discount. Purchase 2 Wireless Meters and receive a $40 discount NOTE: Wireless Meters are on a delay. We are estimating ETA to be 5-6 weeks from now before we get them in. Cases- The Cases are here! Here is what they would look like- Examples of USB Meter and LCD Meter- LCD Meter- USB Meter- Both cases- All cases except for LCD and USB PRO are $30 added to order. LCD and USB PRO Meter cases are $50 added to order.

The pod race in Star Wars Episode 1 is awesome. I can only imagine the last hr of inception would be good.x You could try Tron too.

edouble101, why are you attacking DC Power for?

if anything, a relay, not an isolator. A relay, also called a solenoid. They are fine, but in my experience if the output side is going to a crucial battery, they still have ~0.1-0.2v drop due to limitation of being able to overkill on the wiring.

I have ~1300lbs extra in the vehicle on just 161hp stock. No, tranny issues whatsoever. All i need is new brakes at this point and it's fine. The added weight requires a different approach on taking off without squealing tires but i'm used to it now.

Don t use metric.. I used 38-24 on all my custom blocks.

if after charging them up, they rested differently, then they would effect each other all the time even during driving. All a battery is is cells. It's just a box of 6cells. Now you have 2 boxes of 6 cells. When 1 box of cells rest higher than the other, the alternator will STOP charging(maintaining) them once the level of one of the two batteries reaches full charge. Because they are paralleled together, they will share a common voltage. That means, in this scenario, one of the two may always be at 93% charged and the other at 100%. Eventually, that will deteriorate the better battery by discharging more to equalize the voltage and then kill both equally. This won't happen in 1-2 weeks, it would take time. this is also why it's not wise to charge "banks" of batteries without an equalization ability on the charger.

Well, an ammeter would definitely show you that. In my experience, correct me if i'm wrong, but rewound, to me, means substantial higher output at whatever engine rpm is required but the idle is reduced compared to STOCK or of equal value to stock. High outputs bought from reputable companies like DC, Mechman(when they use the right pulleys) and Singer, have large idle outputs like it should be. IE rewound- Saying you have a 250A alt cold, 210A hot but only 60A idle COLD, maybe 30A hot.

Gotta go to doctor sometime this coming week... Been noticing the last few days my Lymph Node on left side of face is swollen and has slightly gotten bigger today. It's about the size of a dime and ~1\4" bulging. After reading online.. It's commonly caused a past(but not cured) infection or present infection with cold\flu like symptoms... Well, I have 0 symptoms. Other possibilities is cancerous and since I do have Celiac disease, it is possible.. But I do not believe that to be the case here... Doing more reading, I share the same thing as people who have West Nile Virus... I have mosquito bites all over me from working on my car all the time. 80% of people with WNV have no symptoms except for .. wait for it.. swollen lymph node(s). So, hopefully it's something as simple as that. Probably get blood work done this week and see what my Doctor says. PS- Celiac = Gluten disease. Cannot eat anything with Gluten or i'll turn into a Funky Pup and pop.

Well, for one, you'd have to drive about 1.5miles to the GATE to do that.. And two, i believe they punch your pass too, can't remember 100%

they told me i wasnt allowed m5 for something that i AM allowed but instead of arguing, i could care less right now. I'm there to have fun, hence Bad to the Bone, lol. Winning is not a goal in Rad class, but the goal of a 160 is. And my car is daily driver so if i can do a 160 at a show, i can do it in demos... Please give me time.. I will say this- For slamology, assuming nothing bad happens by then, i WILL be doing at LEAST 154-155db at the windshield, assuming it doesnt crack.

MECA will not see what i can actually do until it really counts at the end of the year.. Next month, i begin tuning. And since i'm in X class, i can do some bizarre things to increase my score... which means even longer tuning sessions to get to that 160.

Another thing too- Even it the alt is on and outputting current, if it's "rewound" all shitty, then it will exhibit idle output worse or equal to your stock alternator. And if so, that would mean normal to average current draw for daily driving would bog it down at idle rpm causing the voltage to sag because it's at maximum potential at idle rpm. Getting a smaller pulley would, if needed, fix the turn on output of the alternator by spinning faster at lower engine rpm but if it's rewound, then nothing will fix that except for throwing it in the trash.

lol, yea.. Then the judge says he wants a copy of that modded song.. then i go do Park n pound and steve told me my modded song was too perfect and wanted me to add some extra peaks in it... So only some modded songs are allowed now.. I guess i'll just play pink noise with lyrics and see what happens next time.

God, me too. I stopped off and ate and just got home, eating again, lol.

No, hehe. I am not in the burp class to try and go all out for quite a while. I just played George Thorogood's Bad to the Bone. Sealed on the dash, it peaked at 35hz at 150.0 My rise at burp goes from 1.8 to 6.8ohms and i am wired at 2ohms per sub. I keep it like this so i can do testing and have consistent results because of large battery bank. I can say officially though that i am now louder sealed on the dash than i am outlaw at the headrest.. It took a long time to accomplish that but now i'm there. Now i gotta try and break a 160 seriously but that may or may not happen publicly

Mother of God! The LARGE cable is POWER. The ground is the case itself. While not great, you can effectively get better voltage by running a cable somewhere as close to the case or on it as possible to ground of the battery.