shizzzon

Do not run .33 man. Not worth it... now that gives u an excuse to add a couple more d4s to the box

in my opinion.. it goes both ways.. Unless it's been tested, resin coating makes the inside non-porous and smooth which excels on the meter but at the same time, has damped the material since mdf is not liquid resistant and a material like Birch is far more resistant to let's say water than MDF is.

it works fine here even when i'm logged out of the hosting site.. Maybe you need to be on a computer, i dont know?

Supposedly i did something right this time... Since i got some really sensitive tweeters, i have started lowering the amplitude of my music. No need to have it at max potential since the user can just turn the volume up more if need be. I want you guys to check this out... The Harlem Shake.. LOW LOW Style https://www.box.com/s/6s0lgnm7rssf08dyf71h Shake the car apart!

I vote Fi hault all non-contracted business for a period long enough to evaluate their business position and change what can be changed so the conclusion is what customers are looking for. I believe we've all had to do this in life before on things and the only way to truly fix the problem is just to step back and start over. When we get in a groove, no matter how much chaos is caused, we still think we can control it. I'm speaking from my experience and it's night and day when you just drop what you are doing and leave. Come back with new eyes.

Www.youtube.com/ then add this at end - watch?v=dgwYQtaYjqg

...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgwYQtaYjqg... Remove the dots at beginning and end and paste link and load it

Hold on.. I removed the mobile link and it removed the video completely... let me fix it

I found the power threshold of the ft1s and im not pleases with them and also have a weak tolerance to abuse too. Thats why I want lots of cone area

I am looking at ditching the ft1s and doing an array of a pillar tweets. Still keeping same amp, just lots of cone area but sending low power to each. Still thinking about maintaining around 100db/1w sensitivity.

While i haven't done research yet, i'd look at your minimal requirements- Must have a data account so 4g capable via Verizon. The rest is up to you.. screen size, Android OS version(doesnt matter how old it is, software will work regardless, this may save some money there) small internal memory may help save money. Just purchase sd card later, you know..

go to splbassx.com as they are a vendor there.

IF we are taking song demo requests.. we pray that Justin doesn't get ahold of any music i modded.. Lord help us.. Some of the music i've done goes below 20hz and I do not want to see the structural failure of a design caused by inaudible music.. unless i was there, hehe.

what hotel you staying at? Whats the address and price

This is because Mechman only tailors themselves to V8s mainly. IF you do not have a big engine, they will use the largest pulley they can get just so you have terrible idle output. I know this because i have been a customer of Mechman and DC and in between, had DC inspect a bad Mechman alt because Mechman literally lied over the phone telling me that their alts can't fail, impossible.. Well, since Mechman was claiming to be omnipotent, i sent their alt to DC for inspection and they laughed saying they see these problems all the time and had a pallet of them in their shop just going to waste. When i had my mechman, it was a 250. Spec sheet said- 156A at idle and 258A max. These are cold ratings. Literal clamped- 74A at idle, 202A max(3000rpm tested) I now have DC and just to let you guys know, from what i am reading here, DC must be the ONLY alt company to offer a 390A alt which will produce 160A Cold, 140A hot at IDLE on a 4cylinder. And i know this too because they tried to get me to get one but my application doesn't need it. The 390A rated to do 350A hot. So, i have the indestructable 270XP which features dual rectifiers and a temp sensing module to prevent the bridge rectifier from EVER melting and they use OE Denso regulators for your own specific vehicle so there is no mismatch in swapping.

oh that was you? No biggy... I can tell he is new to all this so i didn't want him researching these terms to find out this means AC and that means DC and get even more confused... While he should eventually know this stuff, well, i quit, lol. I'm going to sleep.

Soundqubed does not list their RE so i cannot help you.

what is the model of the 15s?

just measure each of your speakers separately except for ch1 and 2 as they are wired together.

Take Dmm, set to ohms. If not auto-ranging meter, then set to 20 ohms. Make sure the stereo is off(i am assuming if stereo is off, amp is off too). Unhook EACH pair of speaker wires(+ and -) and measure the reading on the DMM. Before doing that, touch the probes together for a few seconds to get a consistent reading of.. whatever. If it's anything other than 0.0000ohms, then take this number and SUBTRACT it from your actual reading when measuring resistance on these wires. So, do this with left channel 1, right channel 2, and then the sub wires. You MUST disconnect them from the amp or you will be reading the internal resistance of the output section of the amp which will give us erroneous results.

That is what we are all waiting on is the DC Resistance reading of the sub. Impedance kept being used in this thread and do NOT try and measure impedance as you could kill a DMM. But i also think he said he doesn't have one. Rule #1- don't get into the automotive hobby without a DMM.

Those arent the screws. The screws i'm talking about are stainless steel. And they are only threaded about 50-70% so make sure the threading still stays in the wood.

This will be interesting- Tell us why we are wrong? I stated i have over 22,000w of power in my car. I have 4 5500ds, a Lanzar 1,500w amp and a Lanzar 200w amp. That's over 22,000w of power. I also stated about 80% of my wire is CCA. I have 4 5500ds, each has 2 sets of power and ground. Single CCA is ran from ALL 4 outputs from EACH amp to a custom block,. Then, from the custom block, DUAL CCA from EACH SINGLE CABLE is then ran to it's own designated battery. So that's 12 CCA cables per 5500d = 48 runs for just those 4 amps. All 12 of my batts are paralleled together. About 60% of all the wiring to do so is CCA. I have a custom High Amperage block under my wall capable of handling up to 500A of continuous current. It's ran with dual CCA power and dual CCA ground. I have a HO alt under the hood. It's ran via dual CCA power separately fused and then ran to front battery. The HO alt is also grounded with 1 OFC cable, but the grounding point is dispersed with CCA to two different locations. The only cables in the car considered power and ground that's not CCA is the master dual power and single ground run from front to rear, some paralleling battery cables and a couple fuse blocks. So, I do not see how you can prove me wrong. I built it, i designed it, i created it, i visioned it, i am the ONLY one who can troubleshoot it and i am the only one who knows how to work on it.

About 80% of all my wiring is CCA and I have over 22,000w of power in the car.