shizzzon

oh shit... how many NS-1s can u fit jon? lol

someone in ur town just won the powerball so go borrow some money and come out and meet us all,

well, at the end, i did suggest struts over air because of the cheap cost of strut replacements.. but for total cost.. I had new mounting plates welded in place, 2 brand new air bags installed, new lines, schrader valves and stems installed and extra fitting in case of leaks for $650 installed from one of the largest shops in the US who competes in many hydraulic shows around this country. Their labor charge was $55 per hr. And for tools.. all you need for my car is a hydraulic jack, 1 socket wrench and 2 smaller wrenches to replace both bags and valves and stems on the side of the road.

well, you do not need compressor, tank and all that if it's just to support weight. I have mine setup to just manually air if i have to and carry around a typical 12v air compressor for emergencies. You do not look for bags for your car, hehe. You look at custom installation because.. this is custom. Firestone makes bags that will work fine for your car for around $85 per bag. If you wanted to go crazy, you could get some Slam Specialties but that's like saying you are putting in around 2000lbs of extra weight for daily driving, lol and they are still around $100 per bag. I just looked up your car and see several strut replacement systems for only about $100 per wheel too. So, imo, i would not go with air and stick with good o struts.

Ok.. this is the part that i do not understand... You cannot afford air? Air cost less than springs do... or should i say when comparing lowering springs. Over 90% of all air bags cost under $100 per wheel.

i wouldnt get lowering springs.. that would be counter productive. IF your stock suspension is bad, then replacing with new stock replacement would help. How would a mechanic not know? seriously.. Take it to a suspension or chassis shop. They would be the ones to talk to. I had 560lbs of extra weight in my car for my first wall on stock suspension and the fenderwell just started covering the top of the tire but i never bottomed out, i had mcpherson struts. Now, i have bottomed out in this car with leaking air about 45times so far but talking with shop, it's nothing to worry. The exhaust has taken the hit everytime but is still fully functional. I like going air because it's more DIY and you can replace the entire suspension on site without any special tools. The way i had the shop install mine is i can remove and replace my entire air suspension from the outside of the vehicle so i could build my wall as wide and deep as i wanted to coverting the strut towers all i wanted to without worry.

install costs should be no higher than 180-300. Springs would lower labor cost. if using a HD spring, they need to make sure your strut has a base strong and large enough to support a beefier spring. Air is typically what will fix it everytime. Lowering springs will, lol, lower it. Coil-overs will.. lower ir. You need either some sort of fully air supported air suspension or part air, part spring.

yep, here's another twist to that argument too.. There are many high efficient drivers that are rated for low rms and lower efficient drivers rated for high rms.

The larger enclosure you go, the less power you would want to send. The enclosure you have is a general area for all 18s. Using the same power, cone area, tuning and volume for 18s that are all designed to play music and be ground pounders is only going to be a possible upgrade to what you have now... possible, but to compare all your choices together, i do not think it really matters which one you go with because you will be limiting the maximum potential the subwoofer can produce so any of the choices are fine.

a sweep will only get you in the general area. Sweeps play too fast and if you are running a lot of power per driver, slow producing sweeps will produce poor results due to power compression. You can do a sweep at moderate volume but you still need to go back and play single frequency tones +/- 5hz or so from what the sweep said at full tilt.

your frequency peak changes from sealed to outlaw so that may be why it appears to be the same score. your 154 in port wars... I'm assuming your port is just straight right? no bends? In port wars, those who have bends in their port will always generate a LOT MORE pressure in the corner of the port. My last street box in my car was doing a ~147 at the headrest with the door open but in port wars because of how i designed the L shape of the port, it registered a 166.8db. In KY and especially in TN as well, we have many competitors and judges who have and still compete that can provide MANY tips from experience on things to do to get louder.

i've messed with high powered subs on low power and even under 100w actual, output is surprising.

thought u might like to see this- http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2265171/

last time i hung out with him, things went nuts. I can only imagine what happened last night.

I always fail at doing those... About 40% i do decent but the rest.. there is always that one little spot that forms a bubble.. I slide them out with a card and everything slowly but never fails.

Hate to tell ya but i doubt it man.. I'm in KY, lot further south than you and winter isn't almost done here... When it starts getting into the solid 70s here, you still got about a month to go, hehe.

Are you looking to be a retailer for SPL-Lab? We offer national and international positions for retailer support. We do not want\need reps as we have plenty advertising support from them. Contact us for information. Must have an active store or storefront.

There was a reason why we were re-evaluating our sales status with our reps recently.... guess i should spill the beans... SPL-Lab is about to start offering extended warranties on ALL of our devices. SPL-Lab is about to initiate Team member buy-in Pricing soon(hopefully before the end of April). Team Pricing incentives are as follows- Being on the team gives you the ability to purchase up to a 3yr warranty vs 2yr as a non member. Cheaper warranty costs Cheaper service fees when warranty expires Cheaper full product replacement costs when repairs are impossible Able to buy direct once you have completed our buy-in Pricing for being on Team SPL-Lab. When buying direct, you will have access to cheaper pricing for ALL of our products compared to MAP. When being on the Team, you will be a member for life. We value Team members as a way to help us advertise and in return, we will honor our appreciation to keep your cost down. We will also be allowing customers to conduct their own group buys soon so people can always get group discounts whenever they wish. The discount control will be done with a new rep in South Florida. She is already on our website but contact information will not be activated until we are ready to start it. MECA Event Directors, we will be dropping a decent amount of money to supply about 85% of all ED's with an advertising banner from us. We are already a part of MECA and have no intentions of leaving for a LONG TIME. We are updating our reps information now with email, phone number contacts and extra services they can provide for you(our customers) so you can get the most\best possible support from us even if you may not purchase a product immediately. Reps will be starting to offer warranty extensions within the next ~2 weeks. Retailers will be between 2-4 weeks. Team Pricing is still about 4-6 weeks away. Stay tuned! We have lots to offer.

SSF settings are set according to application, not a rule of thumb via a few hz below tuning. Get a test tone a lot lower than your tuning. If you are tuned to 32hz, lets say get a 20-24hz test tone. Turn your SSF ALL THE WAY UP. Turn your stereo to it's max playable volume. Gradually turn the SSf back down until you either do not want the sub to move any more or it starts bottoming out which you would then turn it back up slightly and stop. You may need 2-3 people since it looks like yours is in the trunk and i strongly suggest not to be playing solid test tones at full output for more than a few seconds once excursion is near peaked out.

Today's alarms have built in GSM modems they use in cell phones so practically impossible to cut the communication line..

weldingsupply.com is TOO expensive.. Go to www.wireandsupply.com Here, i'll even link you to Royal Excelene 2/0 - http://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/58.htm $2.55 a foot.

i guess u havent heard of that one device used to measure REAL output power of any amp up to something like 20-30kw but it costs around $5,000. Now.. before u go crazy on the price, let's assume, for $5k, the thing is hella-legit... No... You have to MANUALLY program what impedance your subs are wired at..... WTF.. really.. Then it will not accurately read real power due to.. guess what.. impedance curve.. I could go on and on but.. hey.. i'm still waiting for the BB-1 to come out. That way i can set my bass boosts properly without issue.

I don't think it gets any better than this... I was looking over SMD a while ago to see if i could see any pointless threads today and came across this that is just terrible.. We all know the CC-1 is completely pointless.. A $10 DMM can do the exact same thing it can do so here we go.. Someone's CC-1 is not "lighting up" at all, lol. so the user is lost.. Following comments to troubleshoot- Do you have a DMM? Yes. Use it to start probing this and that to locate the problem.. So, if the user is intelligent enough(like in elementary school) to know how to use a DMM to probe things.. then why is the CC-1 being used? I just can't take it anymore.. Just hilarious.

leakin or blown? Get some Slam Bag Specialties. Guaranteed not to blow out seriously. As long as you are using the proper weight rated bags. Slambags use TWICE as much PSI capacity fill rate as any other bags out there except for Airlift's xtreme series, whatever the name of it is, cant remember.