shizzzon

Instead of speculating, find someone or a video of induction heating happening to speakers that can be a direct result of unintentional failure.

it's the same problem man. How much have you done since the last time i posted.

Maybe it was too early to publicly announce this, HOWEVER, another forum had already started doing it so what the heck.. This is why i do not like hyping up product. Yea, i posted it but i did not know it was far from ready. When knew things come out under our name, we aren't showing off anything until right before it hits the market. Only info i can ever find is on facebook and i HATE facebook's organization. It's like looking through search results in xml only.

i would go into control panel and uninstall chrome and run a scan too. You may have large amounts of registry corruption as well(sucks if you do because without a backup, impossible to fix if caused by virus). Chrome will launch other things too like Flash player.. Flash is tied to many virii in how they come in via web pages. Try to launch IE or firefox if you have that instead. If they do not cause a crash, then it's not the extensions used in chrome.

hmm. 1E, that's typical of hardware issue. Well, when booting in safe mode, does it ever crash in there? If you do not know, bot into it and immediately start running a whole system virus scan. IF you do not have one, boot info safe mode with networking, download AVG 2013 FREE and keep choosing FREE basic version every time it suggests something else. Run it until it's done scanning. If it crashes before u get done, then it's probably hardware related. is this blue screen caused from doing certain things or just random? Also, now would be a good time to burn that mem cd, stick it back into cd rom drive, set laptop up in bios to boot off the drive first then it will run the test. Let it run until one full pass has been completed(about 30minutes or so). A single error is failure.

damn... maybe i should buy about 40 of them and get my own underbody kit and massive soundstage all at once

YES! i fixed it, lmao.. . just post the STOP error code and, if present, system file(s) that caused the error.

yea but that's several steps away. I need error codes first.

that diagnostics is pointless. I'll get to that later if need be. But if you want to prepare now, go to www.memtest.org and download mem tester image. make sure u get the 64bit version if there is one. you can prepare it later by burning it to disc if we need to get to that stage.

Yes, that's the screen ricksi30! Uncheck auto restart, apply and ok everything, then restart and wait for it to do it again.. then give me the info, hehe.

Did u do the big 3 yet? Lol.. Boot into safe mode, right click computer.. properties. Im mobile now but somewhere in advanced settings. Set it To NOT restart on blue screen, then restart to save changes. Then tell me stop error code next time it comes up with any files It may lisr with error

If i'm not mistaken, preorder is $165, normal is $225. With that much potential.. why use small cone area.. that's what i do not understand.

I will say this.. For the price, it will sell because it's priced the same as all other beefy 8s out there. If will be a showdown for competition comparison. For daily, i'd be really interested if it's capable of sounding good on music smoothly.

the big 3- alt to battery batt ground to frame engine ground The key here is engine ground. The purpose of engine ground is ALT ground. If you can get the alt ground(the closest point to the alt casing) grounded to the battery as best as possible, it will maintain the highest voltage capable. I dont recommend doing this unless it's fully possible but i recently ran ground from the actual mounting bolt to the alt itself to a ground point on the frame which then runs directly to the front battery. I say unless possible because you must make sure the cable is not in the way of the belt and the bolt is fully tightened having a terminal on it now. In other typical scenarios, i would attach a bracket to the casing that would allow me to run ground off it. If i couldnt, i would run multi ground cables from the nearest point of the alt.. which is.. Engine ground.

Wow, lol.. this email is unique.

No. IT's still suggested to run to stock first, then to rear second because the starting battery still needs to be charged. Doing this method still requires less cabling. Any battery will only pull what it needs so if you had 10,000A worth of alternator and 50 D3100s in the rear, and you passed 100 1/0 cables over the starting battery, it would still only pull 3-8A of current while driving when fully charged.

You add it, don't remove the factory charge cable. Add your 1/0 cable and fuse it with 250-300A fuse. Make sure you add 1-2 ground cables as close to the alt as possible. I've shown this a million times but if you have extra batteries in the rear to be used for your audio system, it is unecessary to add ground cable to your starting battery. In the testing i've done, less than 10% of battery capacity comes from the front when the aH capacity in the rear compared to the front was only 300% greater. The ground cable upgrade to the front battery should only be necessary if it were the only battery in the install. It's to keep the voltage up on the starting battery but since it's not the primary source of power anymore, it's discharged loads will be small and stock cabling is plenty sufficient.

When you receive a call from the Head Engineer of a buildhouse(non-disclosed information) out of the blue because of the popularity of what you have in this hobby.

haha, glad it made it to you safe brother. I notice the same thing actually, swapping from the zcon to the evil. Was quite a big difference in voltage lol. Yeah I actually met up with him in BG when he went with his buddy to pick up the truck. Since it was in driving distance I chose that route instead of shipping. word. sentence.

If they don't want to be losing money.. they should spend some more money and go digital. Think oldschool, get paid oldschool, simple as that.

Try ARC .

I would say it's shot. Either(assuming) too much current shot through the amp or too low voltage was present. Or.. the input section is toast which may be the reason why you can't visibly see anything.

DO NOT TRY AND DISCHARGE THE AMP WHILE ITS HOOKED TO THE BATTERY! REMOVE THE AMP COMPLETELY FROM THE CAR WITH NO WIRES ATTACHED! Then, take a wire and connect it to the power and ground, wait for it to spark, when its done sparking, it's complete. Then reinstall\rewire the amp back in the car and test again.

The picture quality is too poor to see anything. also, short out the caps and see if that fixes the problem.

lol.. i been playin it more and more regardless of what the jackpot is.