shizzzon

That definitely sounds like you have resistance build up somewhere if only 1 of 2 amps can stay on on same power line. Low voltage is what it sounds like.

At this point, i'd run a new temp line straight from battery to amp(fused of course).

I think i have found my wheels! I have to upgrade my wheels to a larger wheel to support the Payload capacity i am about to dump into this vehicle. Note- Stock 16" wheels are amateur in terms of the payload i require, and that's a physical fact.. Looks like i'll be gettin some Enkei 18s on 235/45s. They are blacked out with red accents on the outer part of the wheel. They also come with chrome inserts if you didn't like red.

Good to see you guys made it back ok. I made it back fine. Left around 530pm back home. Me and Dave(dbsupra) is gettin my alarm system installed tomorrow and removing his headliner at my place so we can locate and fix ALL roof brace detachments from the roof itself while the alarm gets installed. He/We will be formulating a plan to completely redesign the roof interior customly so it can be used for anything he wants to do.

In my experience with their tech support.. they don't or can't really help you troubleshoot installation products and can only speculate on possibilities. If they said anything worthwhile to this case, it would be to send in the unit, lol. I would personally call them once all easy troubleshooting has been done that way you can help them deduce what is going on with your installation. I believe it's a pinched\loose wire somewhere that is interrupting the BT and\or other external equipment.

You gotta blame that on the manufacturer and not the outlet. A smart manufacturer would have a good rep firm to dictate who gets to carry product without watering down the brand.They don't have a rep firm, those sites are approaching them directly.I understand your plight, but if they have the resources to do so in our capitalist economy, then what is the problem. I have to agree with Quentin. Rep firm or no, it's the manufacturer's responsibility. If Zed or Sundown don't want their products sold on other sites, it's up to them. Unfortunately for SSA, you're too small to matter in the grand scheme and we all know how people love a cheaper price. Oh yeah, I fully understand... whore it out is always > loyalty I don't understand this comment on all. Please expand. That's better discussed over drinks. Do those drinks have to be person to person or chat to chat? hehe Only thing i purchase from SE is random accessories and i have a key reason to.. Their warehouse is 7minutes away from my house.

Unplug mic from headunit and see if amp goes into protect. If it does, then unplug remote wire going into all your amps and jump them directly to your power line for testing and see if they ever go into protect while wired liked that.

What are you using for bluetooth? Headunit with built-in capability or add-on module? How did you disable BT when suggested to earlier? I would unplug the BT mic from wherever it's plugged up to and see if the amp still goes into protect.

Ok guys.. I have it.. How about an oscope where its probes are in the shape of ears? Everybody wins!!!!!

That's cuz u ain't got no loud wufferlers i now demo 40 hz test tones from youtube in my car.... i took a tip from the pros over at skar, then used the DD1 and now im SMDSKARD PSsh.. if u used a dd-1, then u gonna need twice as much junk in the trunk to do 40hz demos now.

Another thing too as what Impious said.. If your subs get hot, it's not clipping all that much, it's the power you are driving to them. But more importantly what you said about clipping effects- Amp creates heat regardless but a shit ton on the sub(s) when their thermal rating is way far off from your amplifier's ability. Efficiency DOES NOT DROP WHEN CLIPPING. IT GOES UP(in one of two reasons.. I do not know 100% but someone else here may) I've measured output from amps before to see effects of different scenarios. When full-blown clipping was induced- after a couple seconds(test tone), the output(wattage) would lower. What was happening was the voltage would slightly lower by a couple volts due to load sagging the rails but the current would start to go way down resulting in increased impedance. Now, this is a prime example of power compression which is probably what is going on here but can this be caused by clipping alone? Or does it just look like this because most stressed installs that clip induce power compression resulting in this scenario?

You could always see if you can find a device in the car audio world that incorporates a clipping suppressor like what many PA amps use to limit dirty signals but i will tell you now, it really limits the ability of an amp to go balls to the wall if you like to do that from time to time. Clipping like most other things aren't bad by themselves, it's the duration it's in that state that can cause problems.

What do you mean by better? Technically a larger alternator is always better even if stock appears to be sufficient. Alternators are to be used in cyclic usage, not 100% duty. The rectifier is what normally gets damaged when abusing an alternator. Using a larger rectifier(larger alt or dual rectifier) will decrease the amount of heat that is being generated around the rectifier. It takes time. Not 1 second, but time for heat to kill the alt. I ran 21,000w of power on a stock alt for 3 months fine. IT takes TIME to heat the rectifier up and kill it. Because i have always been limited to fitting multi alts in my vehicles, i choose to run a temp-monitored alt so i can have the peace of mind that at any time i can pull more current that the alt can handle for as long as i wish without worrying about the alternator failing.

No, i mean they oversized their CCA to be "safe" to use without researching their wire.. When someone sees 1/0.. they expect 1/0 performance.. That's what i mean. If i see 1/0 with the ability of only supporting a portion of what i was expecting, i wouldn't probably buy it for a single run because of the voltage drop potential.

God dammit again.. This chart i had.. i have been mis-interpreting it.. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! After doing some research.. YES! CCA's conductivity % to pure copper is almost the same % as pure aluminum which Gauge for Gauge is pathetic unless you are getting it for EXTREMELY EXTREMELY CHEAP. Well.. looks like i won't be using any of this left over CCA then, hehe. I need 200ft of 4/0.. looks like copper it is.. Dual 4/0 runs everywhere. I have had plenty of success with knukonceptz wire but I know there are cheaper options than that but still they give you a bargain for how thick their wire is. God dammit again.. This chart i had.. i have been mis-interpreting it.. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! After doing some research.. YES! CCA's conductivity % to pure copper is almost the same % as pure aluminum which Gauge for Gauge is pathetic unless you are getting it for EXTREMELY EXTREMELY CHEAP. Well.. looks like i won't be using any of this left over CCA then, hehe. I need 200ft of 4/0.. looks like copper it is.. Dual 4/0 runs everywhere. I have had plenty of success with knukonceptz wire but I know there are cheaper options than that but still they give you a bargain for how thick their wire is. Yes, i didn't want to say that but yes, Knu's CCA is oversized and says so on their website to alert you not to use their rating specifications to compare to other CCA.

God dammit again.. This chart i had.. i have been mis-interpreting it.. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! After doing some research.. YES! CCA's conductivity % to pure copper is almost the same % as pure aluminum which Gauge for Gauge is pathetic unless you are getting it for EXTREMELY EXTREMELY CHEAP. Well.. looks like i won't be using any of this left over CCA then, hehe. I need 200ft of 4/0.. looks like copper it is.. Dual 4/0 runs everywhere.

No problem.. I figured you misread that because i was about to go into beast mode with examples, lol. I make them for myself only. I offer no cosmetics like what toolmaker or projectdb can do.

This is what i did with my last build. When 1 run of copper cost as much as 2 runs of CCA, i go CCA. It can handle more current and less voltage drop. I make my own fuse blocks, termination points, etc so it's well worth it in my case. Copper handles more current and has less voltage drop. You have the terminology backwards my friend. No, you are not understanding this thread. Copper vs CCA or aluminum is better but not 2x CCA vs 1x copper, lol. 2x 1/0 CCA has the capability of being just as strong if not stronger than 4/0-300MCM Copper.

This is what i did with my last build. When 1 run of copper cost as much as 2 runs of CCA, i go CCA. It can handle more current and less voltage drop. I make my own fuse blocks, termination points, etc so it's well worth it in my case.

Bump.. I do not know what it is but it sounds awesome!

CCA is not just aluminum. This has nothing to do with car audio installation wire but pure aluminum cable is very cheap compared to copper alternative in MCM. I can get 690A capable aluminum cable for less than it costs to purchase 4/0 super-flex welding cable which is only capable of slightly more than half that ampacity. But, it will not bend hardly at all. The diameter of the aluminum i believe is around 1.125", very large and very not-flexible, hehe. Point is- if there were some super-flex lower gauge aluminum only wire, i would probably purchase it simply because the cost is so cheap and can easily compensate for the appropriate size of amp requirement while still being cheaper than copper.

Yea.. the guy who's doing it has absolutely no clue on how to design\build for car audio. Do some research on this bus because with 30 18s and 1 6kw amp, the bus still can't break a 148db yet. Those who do compete or for fun have about 5% of that equipment and can do sustainable equivalent scores. This goes to show it pays off on learning and knowing how to do proper installations in a vehicle.

That does look good man. Some of my meters started chirpin today by themselves.. now i see why.. it's pickin up Indy noise.