shizzzon

you gonna have to wait for JimJ, Dave Brooks, ///M5, Johnecon2001 to come on here to answer the "imaging" part of horns. They recommended them to me for my upcoming install as i have never owned them before. I do know that they are specifically designed to be mounted under the dash on each side so the sound rolls up, contours with the dash. The CD2s are going for $470 plus shipping. They are 109Db efficient at 1w. They only handle 30w so that saves you a lot of money on amps. But just the efficiency part of it, horns are the loudest they get from my research. You can go find you some 200w tweeters but their efficiency isnt as high so not as loud. Oh and those HLTs that some companies make, they(the guys i mentioned above) told me not to use those as they peak like crazy so sound quality is gonna be up and down up and down in their playable frequency range.

I'm just curious, hehe, none of us here could afford something like this, like bigjon said, it would be a dream system for his lincoln, hehe. Anyway, when realistically planning a setup like this for daily, safety and reliable decisions must be made and somethings make me curious as to what needs to be done to a vehicle for prepping since it will be driven. First off, Air ride suspension. Is this the only type of suspension capable of holding all this weight? I ask because when i was researching for my car, not only is it required to get Coil overs for increased weight up to a certain point but also different type of tires for the added weight as well. I do not know the weight rating for upgraded coil overs from any brand but is Air Ride the last resort when it comes to this type of install and how would one know it's weight threshold rating? Does a vehicle suffer from extreme loss of MPG or horsepower? I've always feared this when thinking about extreme designs.... but your designs are far greater then my ideas, lol. You've came a long way, I remember you before SMD's website was even created and it's amazing what you've done. You're not even a dedicated competitor yet you are probably more popular than many competitors are, that's priceless.

well, i see your 6x9s are behind your seat so they gotta go since ur getting a blow through or they'll be in the way. Here are some ideas\options- Install horns by Image Dynamics under your dash on each side. These are for your higher frequencies. The better ones you get by them, the louder they will be, simply put. The CD2s are.... according to specs, hella loud. The only thing else you would need is midbass drivers. You can install a couple, one in each door then possibly add more behind the seats in the corners of the truck, mounted up high... wherever you want to back there really. Also, since you own a truck, it doesn't take as much power to get loud compared to a car or SUV because your cabin area is a lot smaller.

Also, it wouldnt hurt to research this- www.aceorangecounty.com That's who i went through when i got my security film. Especially if you got a pager on your alarm, you can feel safe that the potential of actual theft decreases dramatically. Vandalism is the only thing that would really happen at this point.

yep, a few yrs ago when i was researching batteries, i came across AGM technology. I said to myself then, there would be no other battery i would put inside my vehicle other than an AGM battery because of safety reasons. It's funny that the car i bought new a couple yrs ago has a factory AGM sealed battery. There's a reason. Besides, they have good specs other than safety. Sure they cost more but are worth it, every bit of it.

measure it and see. However it's still not going to be completely accurate because they are flexible and probably move while drawing. They can slightly stretch as well so you wouldnt really know if it's a perfect circle either.

Oh guess what, Guess What!!!! I left a message for them to call me yesterday... well, - I called them again today and no answer... and they Never called me back today either!!! Isn't that wonderful?!?! Good thing i didnt order from them and ordered from somewhere else. Hopefully he doesnt go directly through them to get it after i ordered it since it takes him 2 weeks to ship out AFTER payment clears.

the last Alpine i had, it wouldnt except discs burned higher than 24x. I always burn at 16x because some home stereos i have came across do not like speeds above 16x. 16x is only 5 minutes and some seconds for a whole disc. I would use nero over winamp to burn discs any day. I do not trust burning drivers for software that was originally never wrote for burning. You don't go to Auto Zone to get the best performance parts there is to get... Same thing as you don't use an audio player to burn discs, especially if you are troubleshooting here.

Try ebay, then Squaretrade the warranty if they accept it. HC1400 for $188 http://cgi.ebay.com/KINETIK-HC1400-KHC1400...7QQcmdZViewItem HC1800 for $206 http://cgi.ebay.com/KINETIK-HC1800-KHC1800...7QQcmdZViewItem

well, with only 3000w total, that was another problem. about 3 yrs ago, one of my buddies had, and this is budget funny but true, 2 12" Power Acoustik MoFos off of a Cadence amp, it was Cadence's longest orange plated one with Heatsinks on the side. I think it was a 9000 model or that number was in there. Capable of doing somewhere between 1000-1800w of power. He hit a 150.1 on an AC, i know it's not accurate but giving you something to compare to.

if you are going to install a battery, get one that Kinetik recommends. Either get 2 HC800s in parallel or 1 HC1400 or 1 HC1800. You'd be discharging those small batts a lot faster then the other options listed. If you get that amp, make sure that you get the right batt setup. Their model numbers correspond to total wattage output. If you get a 1000w amp, are you gonna power your door speakers off of an amp? If you are calculate that into the equation as well. So far, you need at least an hc1000 which doesnt exist, hehe. An HC800 would be at the MINIMUM i would recommend, especially if you choose not to upgrade your alt... which honestly you probably don't need to unless you have some pretty bad voltage drop.

You say 6 ohms... that doesnt sound like a Dual 2 ohm sub. Put both probes together on your DMM and make sure it reads 0.0 ohms before testing. A lot of D4 coils read 2.8-3.2 ohms, which translates into 5.6 - 6.4 ohms which is what you are getting unless your DMM is not calibrated right. This wont fix your sound problem but i'd still check into that as well. If it's not you reading the DMM wrong, then you got Dual 4s and not Dual 2s.

well go ahead and sell em all then but what WE were saying was to just rebuild a ported enclosure for 1 and power all that sub with only that amp because- That amp is just right for 1 L7 Your current enclosure was way to small for the power you had.

Bass MekaniK is mostly always good, almost like the best if that's possible... Also try the following- Bass 305 Bass Outlaw Bass Patrol Dr. Crankenstein Quad Maximus

burn slower too. try 16x

I always use Titebond glue to glue the pieces together and Liquid Nails as the sealer around all adjacent pieces. When using a jigsaw, just drill a hole somewhere to get the Jigsaw started. if you don't have a compass large enough to draw the circle cutout diameter, then do the following- Take a flat, narrow straight piece of wood and measure the radius out on this piece of wood from point A(which is 0) to point B(which is the radius of your circle). Then take and drill 2 small holes at point A and point B. Take a pencil and run it through point B, take something sharp and run it through point A. That way it is now a 1 size compass specifically just for your project. If you do it right, the pencil and the sharp item that you choose to run through the drilled holes should fit in there pretty tight so it doesn't change angle while drawing. I've had to do this many times with 15s. And depending on how much pressure and care you put into the box depends on what else to do to it. You may want to put resin everywhere on the inside to seal up the MDF. When securing the subwoofer to the box, you may want to use Hurricane Nuts and bolts to hold the sub down. You may need to brace your box every 12-16" if there is no brace present. When bracing, you may want to use bracing to join ALL adjacent pieces together on top and\or bottom and bracing 12-16" on every wall including Baffle near the middle of the walls. All-thread works great. If you can join all the Allthread runs in all directions in one central point, that's a tight brace. You may want to have all corners in your box rounded or cut some scrap pieces and make all corners 45 degrees. Same goes with port if using slot port. If more serious, you may want to use 2-8 sheets of MDF for your baffle depending on pressure and competition you plan on doing. You may also want to, for the walls, use 2 sheets and leave a 1-2" gap in the middle and fill the gap with Sand or more extreme, with concrete. Do this for all walls, top and bottom. Choose your goal and go for it.

I own this exact setup. Email me at [email protected] to get ahold of me faster to resolve this issue if we don't here. Make sure that u are using alpine's ipod cable. If u are, u may need another one. Bluetooth- make sure ur volune is up, at least around 17 or so. I'll check out my settings to see if I can find anything else. My problem was backwards when I got mine. I could hear but nbody could hear me. That was because the mic was in wrong port.

Ok, i've been seein this everywhere, who is Sean?

here is their info - www.makeitlouder.com Mr. William Hamby 1394 Del Sol Lane San Diego CA 92154 U.S.A. 1 619 662 3551 [email protected]

wow, L7s love ported box's but L7s also only shine in LARGE ported boxes too. You should try to build an enclosure for just 1 of those L7s ported with that amp. I'm sure it will be a lot louder, trust me. Since you have, you say, 6 cubes to work with...about that, build the largest ported box you can as long as it's under 6cubes ported NET and you should be very impressed. Try to get it as close to 6 as possible though. IF you can't, don't worry because you will need a decent size port which would take up some room.

he's right. You would get the same output power either way but strapping is safer because there is less chance of an error during setting up an amp per coil.

I'm expanding my research here so i can get the pros and cons of different equipment. In an earlier thread, Dave Brooks and other suggested i use HLCDs with 4Kw of bass so i don't drown out the stock tweeters that wouldnt be there by that time anyway. Anyway, i came across another gadget, a Horn Loaded tweeter with specs as good, if not Better than Image Dynamics HLCDs. These tweeters cost a little less, but i have questions on the technology in general, not really the product itself. Here is info - http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc...p;idproduct=363 Efficiency - 107Db @1W/1M 50wrms I tried to find some research on them and i found a little but do not know if it pertains to these type of tweeters. Are these type of tweeters solely dependent on the direction they are faced? Meaning, they do not cover a wide range, just a narrow range, whatever is in it's playing path? Even if that's true, what affect would it have if i had them facing me but from the same distance as the subwoofers were from my head? The only place i'd have room for them is right above the back seat. That wouldnt cause music to sound.... very "off" would it? Never used em before... And if that didnt work, what about these- http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc...p;idproduct=364 Those are 1" HLTs so they might be able to fit in my factory tweeter location. If they can mount-wise, they can handle some power! Efficiency - 102Db @1W/1M 75wrms

So what you are saying is.... Even though they have a frequency response from 3.5khz - 20khz, there's going to be that very narrow range of frequencies that when played back are extremely louder than the rest of the playable frequency range? Is that correct?

well, anything can be attenuated so i do not really understand the general statement of they are loud? If HLTs are overriding anything, they can be attenuated... So, if they are, what is the problem? Do they resonate? Do they distort?

well thats what i'm saying. IF it will sound REAL "off", then i won't even consider it. But, like u say, if it will make the stage terrible, then what are they suppose to be used for?