shizzzon

how long do you think it's gonne be before we see a MTX 9500 recone thread on here somewhere?

i havent even looked at the link but if it says that it needs 0.50 cubes ported at 33hz, with 0.05 displacement, then you need a box that WILL BE 0.50 cubes AFTER the sub and port are installed in the box. Now, you can port outside the box but it will look extremely goofy. We are talkin about a 3-4" port diameter running between 36"-65" long... I don't forsee this happening.

haha, well, i guess we'll just leave it at that until i get it in, build a test box then give my review of it.

hey ///M5, were you actually going to go there and see for yourself or just goin to the city?

well, the best port would be flanged at both ends and that's typically circular ports. If this is for daily driver, it really doesnt matter. You apparently have enough space to do a slot port so buying parts for flanged ports may be a waste of money.

Iraggi - 615-287-7991 Call him early in the day, like around noon or so. He is a 1 man company but very good. Ask him about his lifetime warranty. He makes a LOT more alts than what's on ebay.

it's possible that you might not tell that much difference when switching amps... or you might because you are getting a proper enclosure for your sub. It really depends on how good your hearing is really, you'll find out soon, hehe. and about the "new" rms rating - i'm not really for sure. I know fully loaded with cooling, it should be around 1500w. With what you want, maybe 1100-1200. Not to say that 1500w amp isnt a good idea. It is, just don't clip and you're fine.

all i know is it's very consistent according to what he was saying and will never not be consistent unless damaged by extreme pressure. I told him i was planning on reaching 150 someway or another. He said 150 is like babying this meter. I still expect about 2 more weeks before i see anything.

i have done some research over on CA.com and one person actually posted results. They showed that this meter was actually reading lower than the Tlab pro meter by about 1-1.5db! It was actually right on with the tlab meter when the same peak frequency of their car was measured... odd but true. I think their Tlab sensor needs to be recalibrated, i think that right there is pretty sweet.

in his auction, it states he will not email anyone unless there is a very necessary reason too. I'm just gonna wait til the end of the month. If you look at his feedback, everybody is happy. Only 1 negative and that happened over 6 months ago.

how strong is the silicon holding up? With "900w of kenwood" with bass boost, it's possible to not only have clipped but there may be a leak in your box from that silicon resulting in bottoming out the sub. Hey bigjon, you better go over to buying a meter thread when u get a chance!

his is $249 before any discount. Go to ebay and get one for $80, i know he cant compete with that price. I dont know what price he was gonna quote but that's what i payed.

Somebody called me today.... It was MakeitLouder.com that called me. The guy was talking in XML so i had them transfer me to English, hehe. Well, got some answers but ///M5, you can still go over there and check it out yourself. He made references to another mic costing $1999 that is exactly the same as theirs, just not the same model number. MakeitLouder(i'll just call it mil from now on) states that they also manufacturer meters that go over 220Db for bomb testing. Go on their website to see! They have a couple of NASA members who use their meters for bomb testing he said. The meter that he was talkin about.. something 2510 i think he said was the name of it(the $1999 meter), reads both low and over 200db whereas theirs comes in seperate packages. One that goes up to 186 and the other used for bomb testing. Does mil's need to be recalibrated? No, unless hit with something hard like a bat, dumped in water over 400ft below level or some other catastrophic event. He says even then, it may only be off by 0.5-1.0 db. He said they are a small company trying to go big, big big... So, how exactly does this thing work? Well, he told me! Here is the answer- Inside of the black box is a Termlab sensor... NO, just playin, haha, ok here it is- Inside of the black box is a chunk of metal basically. Not just a box with metal obviously but basically it is. He said it's a Zirconium Metal Alloy. This metal is not affected by sea levels or anything else that other meters may be affected by however your stereo equipment is affected so a change in Db will be seen if it happens when tested at different sea levels. When air pressure reaches this metal, the alloy gives off a quick spurt of electricity which is how a DMM can measure voltage. He said the refresh time is solely dependent upon the equipment used. Typical DMMs refresh 3 times a second, Oscilloscopes refresh instantly which are preferred. My Velleman, he said, is perfect for this meter. He said this meter is hella accurate all the way up to 179Db. After 179, Pressures 179.1 - 182.0 were calibrated under a small frequency range and so were 182.1 - 186.0. He started to compare their's with Termpro's Meter- He states that any Db comparison to their's that is under 175Db should be exactly the same if not lower. Their meter(mil) is a LOT more strict when it comes to measuring pressure. After 175Db, he said Tlab's meter tend sto read about 1db higher than theirs. Anything read over 180Db(tlab meter) he states the meter starts to become very inaccurate(thats a fact according to termpro). He also states that these competitions where people are doing over 180db has got to be inaccurate as well. He said due to the pressure involved, he believes his meter wouldnt even see 171 or close to that range in the loudest of vehicles. The meter NEVER needs to be recalibrated regardless of how long you use it due to the metal alloy's aging characteristics lasting longer than humans themselves unless you severely damage it. he said i can hold the meter in my hand when setting up daily driver to be loudest at driver's head rest and it will not affect the reading at all. He says manufacturers buy these exact meters to test their proto guns on to print out Db curves to determine strength's of discharge. He offered me a discount but as you know i already bought one so yea!, let's Git R Dun!

when i get my install done...whenever that is... i will have everything installed and keep the electrical system completely stock. I will have more power than you 418Fis! I will attenuate the preout voltage on the stereo until voltage drop is unnoticeable. I will then replace my alt with Iraggi 300A alt. I will then increase the preout voltage from my head unit until voltage drop picks back up. Then i will add batts. I keep logs when i do this so i know what works and what doesnt.

I use Cadence FH-8 SMART Fused Blocks. I "think" Rockford makes\made one but an unfamiliar with product and model number. here is a link directly from Cadence to purchase - Cadence FH-8 SMART Fuse Block

it's the only 2 places worth going, i've been to both and live in the best- Louisville. Used to be Lexington was better but Louisville is gettin more and more popular.

no, i'm in KY. I plan on taking a trip down to FL if my setup gets complete by no later than the beginning of May. I went down there last year to Cape Coral and stayed with my cousin for a week. It's real hot here during the summer but you guys got it a lot warmer than we do year round. I'm lucky i dont live in warm climate year round... if i did, I'd be building different setups all the time, hehe.

Your welcome, hehe Actually part of the time i was signed in here.... i had to leave for a few minutes but i was still double checkin my math while i was away in my head. I don't know, i just like to deal with numbers. I do a lot of video editing as well and gotta do lots of math when calculating how much information can fit on one disc for every project i do so calculating speaker boxes is just the same i guess... Well again, good luck and let er wang. We got hit...again with a lot of snow so it has...again for the 3rd time held me up on sound deadening. Now some of my wheel well lights aren't working for some unknown reason so i gotta wait and diagnose them as well. I think i stretched the wires on them too tight because when i go to grab them, hehe, it's VERY tight wiring. Well, i'm gonna go play on the Wii some so i can get all these numbers out of my head before i think it's for my setup, hehe.

i just did some research and was told to let the admins know to go here - IPSBeyond.com That is all. I went there but am lost and dont wanna register so there ya go.

oh yes, i know what you are talking about! This site would save money in bandwidth if it had that. Wouldnt have to load every single page to check on things. Just mouse over threads and it would display the first line of the first post in the topic so you can see what it's about.

i dont know what the lowest is before danger but my personal preference is to stay higher than the threshold, hehe. I believe most class d amps will fail or partially get damaged below 10.5 or 10v. Some may even get damaged at 11 depending on other variables such as current resistance. Anyways, i would try and stay above 12v at all times. Now, if you are dipping to like 11.8, then no biggy but i'd still try to stay above 12v. If you ever dip below 11.8, for example, i'd either upgrade your electrical or if you dont want to, install a Smart block in your car so that if it does drop below 12v, the block will instantly shut off power going to amps until voltage rises above 12v. If voltage dips below 12v only because of certain hard hitting bass notes then the block will make the song sound like it's skipping if it is doing it constantly. I use these blocks for all installs including class a\b amps just to be safe regardless of how strong my electrical is. Something can go wrong while driving and not know it. Doesn't matter if you got 30 300a alts and 1,000 group 8d batts for a 500w stereo system. If they all failed.... so will your amps if they arent turned off in time. I love my analogies,

Well, here's the thing- You have 4.03 cubes of internal space before any displacement... thats the main problem! 15" BTL has 0.21 cuft displacement leaving us at - 3.82 cubes internal I'm not going to factor in any internal bracing because it will be SO small that it will not audibly change anything. Ok, here is what i got- I plotted this design using a 35hz tuning. If you make the port exactly as said, it may be 34.5hz, which isn't audibly noticeable. Ok, as follows- port dimensions- 13" high 3.25" wide 25.5" long (suppose to be 26.25" but since you use 3\4" wood, 0.75" of length will be used as the thickness of wood when air rolls out of port.) So, YOU are making 25.5" long, hehe Ok, this is how it is to be made- Remember - keep the port 3.25" wide internally at all times! 13" high port. Run the port depth to the back of the box and stop 3.25" before you hit the back wall. Turn 90 degrees and run the port another 9" long(do not count length of the port after this turn as part of the width of the previous port!) That's it. You say sub up port back, try and put the port facing back exiting out of the passenger's side. This should make it louder for the driver. If you have it exit out of the driver's side, the passenger will probably hear the bass as being louder. That should do it. The lowest possible recommendations but still able to fit. Hope it sounds great. This tuning is for 35hz. Anything lower, a lot more complicated. Oh, and this port, this is just 1 port. I couldnt do dual vents so this post is good for 1 slot port.

34" x 18" x 14.5" = 5.1354 cubic ft EXTERNAL 32.5" x 16.5" x 13" = 4.0343 cubic ft INTERNAL Single Baffle 32.5" x 16.5" x 12.25" = 3.8015 cubic ft INTERNAL Double Baffle 3 2x2s (if they are really 2", most are 1.5") - 0.1053 cubic ft Since you need all the space you can get, I would use All thread and L brackets for bracing to save on displacement space. I would also use circle ports to save on port displacement. 32hz tuning is gonna get you the LOWZ that you are not aiming for... The lower you tune, the longer you the port and the more space it takes up! You can tune at 35-37hz to get louder in the punchier bass while still retaining low end, just not Brutal low end. Port length is going to be crazy, even at 35hz. You are looking in the area of mid to high 20" lengths per port, either 6 3" or 3-4 4" circle ports flanged at both ends. Now, i looked up on going dual vents and here is what i got - the port displacement for using 3\4" wood would put the NET volume under the recommended volume. Now, you can use smaller port area but then you sacrifice potential high output and more turbulence. All of the calculations were done assuming double baffle install. If there is anything else you might be able to do to squeeze that little bit more, let me know.

if you have calculated all displacements properly including port displacement and wood thickness of port displacement, a port of- 18.5" wide 10" tall 26.4" long would work for 34hz. The dimensions are for a slot port(one that shares walls of the enclosure). It is important to know this because if you make a port where the port doesn't share the walls of the enclosure then the beginning acoustical length will be shorter resulting in a slightly higher tuning, probably no more than 1-2hz though if you are inaccurate.

i posted this somewhere else on this forum too - When you get your radius, take something sharp, like a nail and a piece of short, narrow flat wood and run it into one part of the wood. Measure out the radius on this piece of wood. Drill a hole that a pencil can fit through tightly as point B. Then run the pencil through and there is no way it will get away from ya. You have to make a perfect circle with that.