shizzzon

thats the only amp i can find to fit that budget. Here is an example- I used to have a 1500w amp @1ohm. wired at 0.7 ohms(1 ohm nominal), my peak specs were- 31hz 4.3ohms 667w That's 6x the resistance. What if i only wanted a 600w amp?, i would have needed a 1500w amp to do that... Resistance is high right after tuning. Have you personally experienced a real 2000w at a peak note? so far, i've only experienced about 1,400w at a peak note off of that same visonik as a matter of fact, back when snoopdan first moved to my area of town. that 667w got me a 144.3db reading on AC mic. If you are trying to get a certain wattage rating after rise to match subs thermal handling, make sure the subs you are comparing are rated that way! Most subs are rated by amplifier power BEFORE rise, not after rise. If you are looking for subs rated AFTER rise, look into Audioque. I have personal experience with their equipment and know that's how they rate them. Oh... and DD as well since they are built by the same place.

i think u mean something before impedance rise, hehe If you wanted an amp to do 2500w after rise, depending on what load it currently sees, you would need an amp around 3,000-8,000w, so i know that's not what u want. For under $500... hmm, lets see- Visonik 4000xd 4,000w @2ohm - $429 http://cgi.ebay.com/New-4000-Watt-RMS-Viso...1QQcmdZViewItem I do not think this amp does a full 4kw so for clean power, it probably does in the high 2ks off of 13v or lower, my assumption.

2 Opti2000ds strapped can do ~3,200w@2ohms. $680 2 AQ2200ds strapped can do ~4,400w @2ohms, $780 For price to performance, this would be better then going with an amp that outputs it's best power @1ohm. Those options will give you plenty of headroom for the money.

the best score Jake got at 0.35 ohms is 2,245w. You say you had the clamp set to max hold, that's not a good way to do it. When both meters are hooked up(try and get em right next to each other), let it burp. While it's burping, wait for the DMM AND Ammeter to stop moving so much. When the numbers stay stationary, then record those numbers. This may take 2-3 full seconds.

If you want to find out what songs in your collection are best for your setup, go to www.yahoo.com , search for audacity and download it. This program can analyze a selected part of a song and show you exactly which frequency peaks the loudest!

i have never done testing in sealed enclosures but do they have lower overall impedance rise compared to ported?

trying to decide on 2 different setups and basically, if you like loud (40hz area) but also don't wanna lose that low rumble in the 29-32hz area, what setup would be ideal? all ran off of a 5,000w amp 3 12" Fi Qs(BP option mandatory) Sealed in 4 cubes. 3 10" AQ-HDC3s ported at 37hz. I know that the 10s are louder but i have never done a setup of this magnitude and am wanting to know really, for someone who may have done something this loud before, what is your opinion on this? I know the sealed setup, i can get my lows just fine, will not be as loud as the 10s but is it gonna be very noticeable? Basically, i can give you a scenario- If i set SSF to let's say to start rolling off at 34hz, you think with this much power that i'll still be able to pull out some major lows with songs such as Late Nite tip, lil jon songs, bass tracks down to 30hz... If you think i can, then i'll just stick with ported. I really want the ported design because a lot of songs i listen to peak in the 40hz range so this would be beneficial but some songs that are also very loud are low hitting in the 32hz range. Just wanna make sure i win both ways.

It was just the right post too, hehe

Tip- At 32hz, ALL tests in different position(well over 10) except for 2 did the Db level drop 0.8-1.0Db depending on power output then picked back up at 34hz and on both ported and sealed. So, if you want dominating ultra low bass, try and get your box to peak at this area to help yourself out.

All windows up doors shut- Sealed, passenger side firing forward right behind back seat- 111.2Db 56.3 watts Sealed, passenger side firing up right behind back seat- 114.7Db 74.9 watts Sealed, passenger side firing up right behind back seat, windows rolled down to maximize output- 116.3Db 56.3 watts The only test left is to build my last test box but cant until weather gets warmer.

thanks. will do research

What is the power rating on these and what si2s do they come in?

Well back on topic- I KNOW AUDIOBAHN! I've ran the original immortal, the new eternal series, ultra excursion and flame compression. Results- Eternal series- Rated for 900wrms. Gave metered power of 334w clean power verified by o-scope and after 47 seconds, the sub severely heated up and something got damaged inside. Brand new at the time! Due to its thermal limit being reached that early... Lied about power handling. Flame compression- Lasted 3 weeks. Spider came unglued, sub shot forward and slammed back down, damaged coil big time. Only thing holdin it down was rubber surround. Ultra excursion- Distributing roughly 400wrms with a clipped signal. After 13 seconds, both coils caught on fire. Had to pry the sub out of box and throw it on ground. The box prevented any flames from occurring visibly but smoke was everywhere. Immortal- This sub was the best but still severely overrated. rated for 2000wrms. Damaged both coils one after another thermally after running about 1100w max clipping for about 6 minutes. I did the same test with an Audioque HD315 which is what I replaced the immortal with and the AQ never ever got warm. That's why I bought another one and they still work no problems.

stop using graphing software. This is a real world discussion forum with real installs. Stop going virtual because those software progs are WAY off. I can prove it to you with a few pics if i have too if ur not wanting that info because of that, then i'm curious as well as why need it?

if you know to setup your amps and build your box right and know what type of stress to look out for on your sub, then it's fine. Meade is running 4kwrms per btl tuned at 30hz so it's not impossible.

there is no such thing as peak or you cant rate an amp by peak. And any amp's rms rating will vary on output. AQ's 1200d has the capability of outputting 1470w @1ohm at 14.4v There are things you have to consider- 14.4v rated, you must have the best electrical system to be able to sustain 14.4 in the back. 1ohm, you wont see 1ohm unless you wire at a DCR of around 0.35-0.5 which isn't safe for daily. Again, this is with any typical amp. Resistance varies, voltage varies. But that amp is the best price to performance for under $300 that i know of. Now, if you stepped up another $45, you could get the opti2000d which does 1,940w @0.5ohms and 1,600w at 1ohm. That amp is one of few that is 0.5 ohm stable.

That's cool Of coursei'm talkin to u, hehe, nobody else on this thread knows where dixie is, hehe

Tell u what, pick a place out on dixie highway next week and I'll meet u there.

i don't see why you couldnt. What dual 3 ohm sub is it? resistance rise should be high enough at all times. Gotta make sure your electrical system is beefed up for it. The closer you get to the lowest ohm load the more potential for damage to occur if your electrical system is dipping too low.

i shouldnt have to because there are more than one topic about this on other forums about comparisons. I've already posted it here before in this thread and just like the manufacturer states, this meter reads LOWER than the termlab because (this is their brief summery of it) the termlab mic still isn't as accurate as their mic and has a lot of trouble staying consistent past 170db. It was noted that when a competitor metered a 179.1 Db on the termlab mic that this meter metered an exact 170db. I'm gonna be using this meter tomorrow to start positioning speaker box to see which type of install will work best in my car.

What you said.... made absolutely no sense whatsoever. At No Point did you make a complete thought. Everyone in this thread is now dumber having read what you posted... You receive no points...and we move on.. Hehe, i just had to do it. That's on some movie, can't remember. Ok, for someone to tell you that about 10s is, to bluntly put in, ghetto knowledge. ghetto knowledge= very basic knowledge but cannot explain why anything works the way it does. When you say 10s can be used to do all those things, you are probably referring to putting 10(s) in a ported enclosure(one with at least 1 opening). Ported enclosures can and are tuned to sound basically however you want them to, high, low, accurate, etc... This is not driver size relevant! But on a side note, people do tend to refer to 10s as having that more punchy bass sound. but that also has to do with other things. 12s can be punchy sounding too and so can 15s. Everything is in the install.

if u really want to LOL, i'll make you ROFLMAOFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFL, hehe- the chart only, hehe only, gives readouts to a millionth of a Db, which is one unit greater than i gave. If you need something more...(because there are probably some no-brainer morons out there) the software it comes with can get even more precise... down to the trillionth! Yea.. because a couple yrs from now, we are gonna be braggin because the record that was set(for example) with a 181.3 was recently broken with a 181.300000012802 Db !!! yah!!!

i'm bout to go to bed so no replyin to this topic til the next day or 2(no i'm not sleepin that long, hehe) but was foolin around with my meter today!!! I hooked it up to my oscope to read live Dbs measurements but my oscope doesnt read them like i was thinkin so i set the o-scope up to read in millivolts like it suppose to and here is what i did- I didn't feel like draggin all this audio equipment to my car so i kept it in the house just to make sure it works! NOTE BEFORE I CONTINUE - you MUST have a meter capable of reading millivolts specifically! I tried testing it on 2 different meters that only read down to a tenth of a volt and it wouldnt work efficiently unless you were going from 140 to 180db which is unrealistic. Ok, so i got my o-scope set to read millivolts. I put the meter right up to the port on my computer speaker setup- Klipsch surround with dual 8" power subwoofer drivers. (i think one may be a PR) but anyways onto results- set volume to a certain level, played 0db generated tone at 37hz. Set bass (goes from -15 to +15) to -15 and gradually recorded what i was seeing. o-scope rests at 0.0000 mV (pretty accurate) Every time i increased the bass by 1, the millivolt reading increased! Every time i decreased bass by one, millivolt reading decreased instantly so meter does work. The following Db results are pointless due to unknown port tuning, power applied, might be clipped, etc... But results show that i went from 115.77507 Db - 133.95041 Db So, at least we know it works. Now, just in time, the weather is getting warm enough to continue sound deadening for the rest of the week so gonna start doing that and at some point i will throw meter in the car and do about 45 minutes worth of box maneuvering to see which direction to face sub\port as a general idea and to obtain Fs currently from sealed box and start to build a test box soon(maybe if still undecided)

Ok, website was down, here are your specs- You gave me internal dimensions of 40" wide by 25" Deep by 24" high. Using double baffle, sub up port up, external dimensions are- 41.5" wide x 26.5" deep x 26.25" high. Sub cutout diameter - 16.75" Outer sub diameter - 18.5" Tuning 32.8-33hz! (AA doesn't recommend tuning above 33) Net volume - 12.1 cubes ported @32.8hz Port specs - 4" back by 28" wide by 15.75" long. PLEASE CLICK TO ENLARGE THIS IMAGE TO BETTER SEE THE IMAGE IF ANYTHING BELOW IS CONFUSING!!! Detail is missing in this image if not enlarged! picture - Specs for what u are seeing- Drilling points for both subs are as follows- (these specs are taken from measuring FULL external dimensions. It is assumed that when laying baffle down that you have a 41.5" wide by 26.5" deep sheet! drill point 1- 10.375" (horizontally) x 15.625" (vertically) drill point 2- 31.125" (horizontally) x 15.625" (vertically) measure these from left to right and bottom to top according to picture above. Port- Also assuming using a 41.5" wide x 26.5" deep sheet- port is 4x28 so here are cutting points- 6.75" horizontally and cut over to 34.75" horizontally. 4" deep on port. Port runs down front wall, port uses this wall as part of port. Port ends 15.75" down Tuning 32.8hz(very close) Note again, the image above is showing the external dimensions. You should lay the baffle on top of all side walls for best support anyway which i'm sure you will so these dimensions will match up perfectly for you. You owe me so much...... buy my next setup for me, hehe

i dont know exactly... if you don't get any options then 2.5 -3.0 may be best. if you don't like the results, then make it bigger. Can't really just know when you reach mechanical limits without trial and error.