shizzzon

Perfect explanation. The lower the load, the lower the efficiency which causes a need to draw more power just to output the same power. The only good thing I know about having an amp with same efficiency as another that can output let's say 2kw @4ohm vs 2kw @1ohm is - Less current output from amps speaker leads so u could use smaller speaker wire but that's only thing I see.

is the 15 dual 1 or dual 2?

Watch that, i am angry at Cadence for what they did. When they first released the ZRS-8, 9 and 10, i bought the ZRS-10 rwated at 2,500wrms @1ohm monsterous lookin amp. I got it in and nothin told me what size fuse to use so i called up Cadence and asked them what to use... They told me the ZRS-10 is required to never use a fuse larger than 130A. I asked them again because i thought they misunderstood and they persisted in telling me again. I was somewhat angry with them and asked them how i was gonna get that kind of power out of the amp and they said i would... full of crap power... the best testing i ever got out of that amp was 1,300w full clipping. Just a hair over 1,000w no clipping at 1.6 ohms. Rated at 1,500w @2ohms..... I no longer trust them anymore and they pulled that line quick i seen.

oh, i remember that event, never been there but fairly active from what i've heard. Someone got a noise violation citation over there last year maybe, year before that... sometime not long ago. They said was tuning system right outside of the property or something like that, PURE BS but place should be great.

well i know power doesnt reference how much specifically but i assume he told me that in regards to an average daily setup. You can always go back over specific areas with spectrum or sludge.

ur runnin the Saz-3000D? I was told by SecondSkin that with that much power to use 3 layers of Damp Pro. So... I would advise goin that route by means of probably just ordering a bulk package. I own a 2door coupe and i'm installin 260sqft minimal until i get my setup in to see what else i'll need.

shhh..... i can do that with my Ipod.... May have happened at SBN?

sounds good

HA! If it's at Audio2Go, meterin my stocks might win me somethin, seriously. I've been there before and while i did see a couple of big timers there, there were a lot of questionable installs as well. To tell you the truth, i'd like to go, but if the weather is great next saturday then i'll just stay here and work on the car. That's what's holdin me back so much is this weather.

when is it? I won't even have a setup til another month to month and a half from now. So... unless you want me to meter my stock speakers....

r u talkin about "THE Lil Jon" or someone else that goes by that name?

I'm not surprised. IF you bring something to a local shop that they do not sell, expect to start hearing BS. In my experience, the only time you won't hear all that crap is when you take equipment to a shop that does more than just audio\video such as performance installation as well. Since those shops do anything custom, they seem to like whatever comes their way.

hehe, you let me know if you have problems at that WC, I work with all regional and district managers in this area as their offices are in the same building. But it better be a big problem, hehe, otherwise, just report it to the working supervisor.

look in this message board , there is a topic about loud songs for SPL. Just about every car audio forum has their own section as well of this topic. If you have a lot of music and want to know exactly where it hits best at, download Audacity. It's freeware. It's helped me out a lot in finding good songs to use for a particular setup.

is your sub wired in parallel? If it is, try wiring it in series and see if it gets louder, those amps like higher loads, just like the highend JBLs. Also gotta realize that you just went from ported to sealed so when you say it isn't loud, it's obvious as to why. Ported is more efficient than sealed.

JoshHD6 - you in the same city i'm in, gotta hear it when you get it all setup. refurb saz-3000d 2 opti2000ds strapped @1ohm 4 refurb opti1400ds you can get all that for under $800

measure the subs with the stereo off, measuring with them on will give you off the wall results. IF you are wondering if you got them wired right, always measure with stereo off. IF you are wondering why resistance is so high when playing something, that's rise.

I've owned a couple of vid cams within the past few yrs all in the $700 range. I need to buy another one somewhat soon so when i install my new setup i can get vids up. One thing that has got me wondering is- is there anyway of finding a camcorder or external mic suitable for recording car audio vids? When looking at mic specs, i know one requirement is to be able to record the frequencies that will be playing but is there any input on choosing a mic that will not sound distorted because of the pressure inside?

well, one thing i hate is sub vids with distortion so loud that it makes you just stop the vid because the sound is so annoying. I am referring to external mics being used for the vid cam.

he has the room. he has over 8 cubes gross internal using double baffle. You should be able to tune down to 30-33hz easily with that space available.

u r right.

Welcome!! PS- have you gone to the new White Castle in that area since it's new out there? I help keep that place runnin. Just wonderin if you ever go there...

i'm gonna see if i can learn something here. This new build i plan on doing, which is the largest i've done so far for me is approx. the following- 42" wide, 13" high, 18" deep. This is a close example. Let's say i run 3 10s in this box for example. What i would do is double baffle the top since subs would face up for this example. Pre-drill, countersink all drywall screws (1.5" - 2" long), Titebond II or III all wood pieces. Liquid nails all internal adjacent corners and finish it off with a sealer. Use L brackets all around the inside of the box, sealant inside all screw holes and countersink screws holding all L brackets inside box. use 3\4" all-thread spanning the width of the box and the depth of the box. Thinking about using some sort of anchor on the inside box floor for all-thread running vertically. Secure all all-thread runs with large washers inside and outside of the box and, of course, use nuts on both inside and outside of box. While running all-thread, allow the all-thread to join horizontally and vertically using "4-way connectors" as i've heard joining bracing to a central spot makes bracing a LOT stronger. When mounting subs on baffle, use some sort of sealer around the subs that PartsExpress sells. I'm assuming it works since i've seen it before and has good reviews. When mounting subs on baffle(using 2 3\4" thick sheets of MDF), use 3" bolts inverted(thread sticking out of baffle) with thread-locking glue on the bolts them self. Place the subs through all bolts. Secure them with nuts ..... or use hurricane nuts inside the box and run bolts in them. this box i'm gonna be building is going to be built with a 5,000w amp next to it. So... if there is any extra necessity for me to make this box stronger, if what i am doing above is not enough, then let me know.

in terms of power? DD, the DD Z to be more specific

if you have 75,000 group 8d batts, it's not gonna matter. you will be hitting below 1ohm after rise a lot by doing that and do not expect your amp to last too long for music. Keeping the voltage up is just to prevent it from going into protect immediately. What's going to protect the components from over-stressing themselves when distributing power in a manner that the amp was not meant to do? Let alone when the Orion first came out, it was around the hype age of the 2500w era in car audio. A lot of companies were bringing amps out around that range. I remember tons and tons of stories of Orions getting damaged. I still hear of current incidents of them still. I had bought the Cadence instead which was like 1,000w overrated but over 90% efficient tested. I don't suggest anyone run an amp lower than rated regardless of electrical system. why overwork something on a daily basis when you can just get a recone to fit the amp at hand... if your sub company does that...