shizzzon

get a screen, once u get one, you will never go back. I and others on this board have the IVA-W205 and it is great. They also make a single din version that flips out.

Laminate sheets I just use 3 layers of paint when i build them. The last layer, i use custom stencils and draw images with flourescent paint so they glow at night if you have a UV light close by.

koopsta knicca, lil wyte? We can go forever on this one.

i'm just brainstorming here but can you try downfiring the subs, trying this at different heights from the floor to see if it emphasizes the response any better?

you are within FI's specs, if you know for certain that it is really 4 cubes and that it really is tuned to 32hz, then having your SSF set at 30 and your lpf set at around 80(not 150), you should be fine. IF you are not, then one of the given specs is assumed to be off. It could be possible if you have a very small air leak in your box that it could cause the sub to move a lot more than normal.

ok, go to another shop, you're not an idiot, they just proved they were the idiots! Playing your stereo with the trunk open causes subs to bottom out? Wow, wonder why companies never put in their little warranty notice not to open your trunk while playing???? Maybe because that's Ghetto BS. Stick with gettin your info from here if they got people that retarded where you are. And give me a BTL, i bet i can get it to bottom out with that amp easy. Build a 7cuft box tuned at 60hz with no SSF playing 10hz tones.... wonder what would happen... hmm.

Because you did this, you probably have no idea what it's tuned to now. The sub, as mentioned before, will not move as much right at tuning so don't be worried that you are not getting proper output... Because you cut off part of the port, you've made it harder to fix the problem now. The box is now tuned higher which means you will need to increase your SSF probably resulting in more low bass response being lost. And you got your LPF set so high, i'm wondering if it's moving to much in the higher range. Your sub, if it is ever gonna move too much, will happen more frequently right below tuning if SSf is set too low or if moving too much on higher notes, it needs less power going to it based on box design. I know of no one who sets the LPF that high, that's crazy. Drop it down to 90 at least if not more.

lets say your amp is clipping like crazy, 4 cvrs could take it fine.... it's 4 subs, what r they rated at? 400wrms right? i know it's somewhere around there. They can handle stress off of an amp like that.

got the ultrasound, gotta wait a couple days before they tell me anything. the screen was in view at one point and i could partially see inside of me.... kinda an eary feeling so i stopped lookin at it, hehe I couldnt get her to tell me a broad answer as to whether it's anything bad or not, she said i just had to wait and they were not allowed to discuss with anyone. I have actually felt fine the last 2 days, fine as in completely normal.... i havent felt like this in a month. Had to fast for 12hrs today then immediately went to the closest restaurant to eat....Taco Bell... I know i know, but it didn't hurt at all to eat which is odd.

Usually, the lower the resistance, the more output power, so more power draw... And typically, the higher resistance may give off "tighter" bass because the damping factor is greater.

AA? they have a forum of course... or is that too easy of an answer?

if it's GI Joes.. i'd say 7,

after you get it scoped again, do NOT increase any setting- (volume, bass, gain, bass boost, raise LPF, lower SSF) Remember volume it's set at when scoped for maximum clean output so you do not exceed it. IF all checks out well, it's possible that the smell you smell may be caused from the smell trapped inside the sub box if it is ported.

yep, when i was doin some research on those subs(BTL), i've posted this before a while back but i believe it's only recommended by user experience to use a MAX of 3,000w amp for a fully loaded BTL. Anything bigger requires attention and care. I believe 2,500w is recommended as a general preference fully loaded but 2500...3000 not much difference. Look at it like this, if it wasnt user error and there were lots of faults... you would be seeing topics on this forum and others mainly about poor choice in soft parts and unreliable audio equipment.. You don't see an overwhelming supply of threads like that so don't worry. You only see problems because Fi is one of very few companies like the others who have forums here too who let you see all sides of the business all the time without hunting for answers. If Fi didn't have a forum.... it'd be a lot harder to do research as fast as we can. Conclusion - It's all GooD

well, i cant have dual alt in mine unless i remove AC which isnt happening so only thing left to do is to reroute AC lines and possibly, if necessary, move the compressor itself...

Yea, it prevents me from workin on my car! that's the worst part because i want my stereo setup done and i cant even start! Anyway, i've been doin some research, if they suggest me to remove my gallbladder if that's the problem, it's recommended that i do not have that operation as i will regret it in the future. These websites i've been researchin this on has a lot of people who've had it done and do not like it. Their symptoms now are pain a lot greater than before and they were diagnosed with gallstones at the time they had to have their removed. There is remedies and shifts in one's diet that can actually heal the gallbladder and pass the stones without surgery. Keep the diet change goin and shouldnt have to worry about gallstones again. The thing about me though is it always hurt in the colon which makes me fear that they wont find anything wrong when they do the ultrasound on the gallbladder... But, i'm not one who worries all the time so i don't tend to guess work my possible health issues. I just like to lay out the possibilities and see which ones i fit and gear myself up for some news.

if u find a 400A, holy sheep sh*t, hehe. Only alts i know that high are Leece Nevilles but the alt guy i know who can get em rewinds em up like crap. Just enough idle output to run the car without the lights fluctuating output. That's why it's better to buy from a company rather than a local shop that knows how to rewind. 300A is the largest i know of that's readily available. 200-220A is built by everybody as far as i know.

To put it bluntly, there should or never will be a 5,000w amp kit... why? Amp kits are generally for people who don't really know what they need, can't remember, don't wanna do guess work on what size wire they need... things like that. So they buy these kits because they know that if the kit says it can power up to whatever the kit is rated for, then they just use what's in the box and go... I've seen kits as high as 3,000w... IT doesn't come with any batteries or info about alternator... Kits give off an image that is the "end all" thing someone needs to hook up their amp(s) and that's it when it is far from it. Kits should come free with the rest of the junk amps that are out there in my opinion.

built in protection is like a circuit breaker. Fuses is like a beefy electrical system. Fuses react faster than a circuit breaker. If something goes wrong drastically real quick, protection won't react fast enough.

I know it isn't. Get the BL. I used to own an a2300hct and it only had 160A of fuse. I never metered it's output but wired @ 0.5 ohm nominal in stereo was the only way it put out decent power. It couldn't do it for long though on music, it went into protect in bout 60 second due to heating problems.

They don't make kits that big because they can't get all those batts and cable to fit in that plastic box,

OK, i'm going to announce this so not only but others will know too. THIS TOPIC NEEDS TO EITHER ME MODIFIED OR DELETED. Now, the following site that you listed is ILLEGAL. They have a full streaming copy of a pirated copy of 10,000 BC ready to view for free and does play from a movie group sourced outside of america. Because it is a website, it is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that you cease all activity at this location before you become a possible target if and when this website gets shut down. It is illegal to host or to directly link copyrighted material which has been proven MANY times in a court. If the site gets shut down, all IP addresses that have been logged will be part of the investigation. Just like when TorrentSPY got shut down. Anyone who used the search engine, their IP address was logged and handed over to the MPAA who got them taken down. A little piece of advise, do NOT try to get free stuff via http, ftp, fxp, p2p, torrent or irc without a high level firewall with anonymity service combined. You put yourself at risk. There are other methods besides those but this entire topic due to that link is prohibited and i refuse to help any further. The streaming videos are shockwave based using a .swf extension. All you would have to do is get a queue manager, view the source code, put the link itno the queue manager and force it to download off of their server. If they use CGI or the likes and the link refuses to download through a queue manager, use a program that can snake files right off their server. "snake" is the key word here.

25%!! Wow!, that's hella inefficient. Off of 13.8v, to output 300w at 85% efficiency(class d typical @4ohm), power draw would be 25.58A of current. Off of 13.8v, to output 300w at 20% efficiency(class a example), power draw would be 108.7A !!!!! With 109A of draw on class d amp at 85% efficiency, you could output - 1270w+! That's a big difference!

no you don't, There is software out there that can do desktop video capture with overlay supported to capture live video. But, if you do not want to publicly say, PM me and tell me exactly what you are using to view movies online so i can help get them to DVD for you.

Welcome, another kentuckian, just like me.