shizzzon

hey, i wanted to respond to your post so you wouldnt think nobody seen it. I got the scope and in order to get you the details about it, either tonight or tomorrow i'll use it for ya so i can tell you exactly what to look at\adjust\press when you can't see anything properly.

i would not suggest running no more than a 1200w amp on a stock alternator. I would be looking into 2 15s approx 500w each or 3 12s approx 400w each off of a 1200w amp. You will kill the alt in the long run if you dont upgrade. Also, the l7s are box hogs and require around 2.5 minimum to 6 cu ft max PER sub.

404 soldierz makes bass lines like lil jon songs.

from my understanding, spl alts get hot real quick so it would overheat the alt, from what i assume.

I was at my local shop today. Now, this shop is pretty popular around town. It's a small shop but a lot of 1st and 2nd place bass race and spl comp guys come out of this shop and compete at Carl Casper. There show room is flooded with trophies right now so you would think that they have a LOT of info in the audio world. While i am researching for the best subs that would meet my application, i was just curious as to what they would suggest me. They sell off the top of my head - Alpine, Soundstream, Powerbass, JBL and a couple others but nothin bigger than them that i remember. Anyways, i asked the guy if he could recommend a 10" sub for a ported box that would do well in no larger than 1 cubic foot NET that is rated for 750-1000wrms. Answer - That sub does not exist. um what? The smallest your gonna get a 10" sub in a ported box is 2cubic feet! I also asked him for one that can get pretty low. He said 10s cannot get low in terms of - no 10 can hit 20hz in the world! I told him as long as it could go down to 26hz would put a smile on my face then i told him about Fi's Q10. He said, companies can post whatever specs they want but no 10" sub can drop that low for ya. I don't like arguing with audio reps so i just said thank you and left but i know for a fact that's crap because- I used to own 2 Audiobahn Eternals(i got a story about those if someone wants to hear that) ported in 1.2cuft boxes and they dropped LOW. I used to play 25hz test tones on them and they picked up just fine so i know that was a lie. Well, i know i get more knowledge on here and other boards than in person... that is sad.

i was being funny, seriously, dont use software to attempt to see what it "might" do because it is usually always wrong.

try plugging the sub into an enclosure, you'll get more realistic results that way and you don't even need t/s parameters for that. I believe it was said before that anything over 1200w is not worth it. But like JimJ said, even if you had a 10,000w amp, you can still run your 15 on that amp, amp won't output max power all the time if you don't want it too. If you set your amp up right and the sub is thermally taking abuse, drop the gain a little or drop your preout voltage a tad.

works fine for me. I hope everytime the bass hits, it is cutting the lyrics out on purpose rather than the bass being that loud!

you should be finding out how much room you have for batts and amps first. If you plan on adding approx 1,000 lbs of weight in the car, you are going to need to replace the tires with something that can support more weight. You will need to replace suspension system if weight exceeds 865 pounds. Honestly, if i were lookin for straight out spl and unlimited potential power... If i had the room, i'd run an APXX off of 20kw-30kw of power, if u can fit it.

that doesnt tell us anything... 38.2v @ 1ohm... Is that 1 ohm nominal... pretty hard to get @1ohm exactly. What is resistance during the test? What is amperage output? How much clipping involved if any? What is DCR?

i think he means output from amp turns into dc which is bad.

i have no choice though. Not to completely change the topic but excessive, ohio gen, ho-alt, powermaster... all 4 of these companies either dont make em or dont know how to. I have a newer car and only Iraggi has the brains to do it. I have no problem with customer service since i'm so close to him, within 5 hrs away. That's why i say if you are close like i am, shouldnt worry about it. Now, if i were far away, i dont know what i'd be doin... prob turbo-ing the car.

i thought about doin this a couple yrs ago because a pc is a pc, it can do almost anything, HU maint only does audio or for more can do video and GPS... I am very fluent with building computers but after doin the research about carpcs and the way i am, i always want the best out there as long as it isn't celebrity pricing only, i'll buy it. The prices of prebuilt carpcs vs building your own vs buying a screen\GPS and a phone that has the internet, there was no need for me to do it. I remember i was gonna spend about $1500 on a nano-itx build that i was researchin and i was gonna have the best of everything in there basically. For the trouble, i instead got a double din screen with a dockable GPS(blackbird II) and i can receive and make calls from my stereo as well as external storage(ipod) and DVD-mp3 capability(awesome feature) and it's a HU, it wont crash and it doesnt require maintenance every once in a while. It boots up the same speed everytime i want to use it, it's simple. And, it only cost me $1,200 even which is cheaper than the carpc build itself. I got a full qwerty size keyboard on my phone i use to surf the net so it works out perfectly.

if you are close to Tennessee and want to drive to his shop(Iraggi), do it. I am going to his shop sometime soon so he can mount my alt on my car since nobody else knows how to. I was talkin to Ohio Gen about my car and they were sayin that they believe it's impossible to built an aftermarket alt for my car (scion tc) due to this "hairpin stator". I talked to Iraggi about it, less then a month ago, and he was kinda laughin sayin that technology has been out since 2000 and has personally installed his alts on tCs without problems. I've read about this negativity but not in real detail. I say if he really has gotten shady, there's no better way for me than to have him install it himself, to a test on the alt right there and get the lifetime warranty slapped on that baby. It's expensive but it's the only route i can go.

if we knew answers like that, what's the point of competing? The BL is suppose to be louder than the Q.

it doesnt hurt too but it also doesnt take the place of bracing either. It prevents flex better than single layer but bracing is still necessary.

in a bandpass, it will be hard to smell abuse by the time u got to the sub. gotta give us that weird ohm load. And make sure when u measure it with the DMM that the stereo is completely turned off including the amp.

You are gonna have to lose the double baffle. I do not think it's even required for just that amount of power anyway. I would suggest to do a little bit more bracing because of the loss but this is a tight squeeze design so needed everything i could get. Use your max dimensions- 38x22x12 OK, i think this is right, i'm half awake right now but i'm pretty sure this is right- Internal- 36.5x20.5x10.5 Port dimensions- 10.5" high x 4.25" wide. LEAVE THE PORT WIDTH 4.25" WHEN MAKING A 90 DEGREE TURN IN THE BOX. Length of port- cut port length to 16.25" long and attach it to the wall that it is exiting out of. So the exiting port wall will need to be cut 4.25" wide. You will then make a 90 degree turn to continue port length. Add an additional 3" to the port and still maintaining the port wall to be exactly 4.25" away from the enclosure wall keeping the port 4.25" wide at all times. Specs - 3.62 cubes NET, tuned to 32hz, 44.6sqin of port. If you want to go bigger on the port, let me know. The sqin size of the port is right at what AA recommends per cube but if you want to go a little bigger, you will decrease your internal volume. I think that size port should be fine. If you ever planned on adding more power or going to a couple comps with this setup, i would recommend a larger port so again, let me know if you want it a little bit larger.

only thing i can think of is to start callin alt specialists, like the ones we all consider on this forum and ask them if they have a solution for your vehicle.

got ur message, i'm actually building a test box for myself with ports everywhere on this box so i can test all kinds of box designs at once. Yes... i'm using port plugs on the ports that are not active, hehe. I'll try and get some designs drawn for ya tonight.

if u got a couple hundred dollars or know someone who will diagnose for free, take it to a body shop.

nvm, found you a lot cheaper prices- 1.0 cubes GROSS sealed- $34 http://cgi.ebay.com/12-SEALED-MDF-SUBWOOFE...1QQcmdZViewItem 1.2 cubes GROSS sealed- $60 http://cgi.ebay.com/12-SEALED-MDF-SUBWOOFE...1QQcmdZViewItem 1.1 cubes GROSS sealed- $49 http://cgi.ebay.com/Single-12-Sealed-CAR-S...7QQcmdZViewItem 1.27 cubes GROSS sealed- $51 http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-12-CAR-SUB-BOX-MDF...7QQcmdZViewItem 1.375 cubes GROSS sealed- $100 http://cgi.ebay.com/SEALED-MDF-SUB-ENCLOSU...7QQcmdZViewItem

you should be able to find some 1 cube sealed 12" boxes on ebay for around $70

waiting on results right now, dont even know when they will let me know... I dont expect it to be anything bad. Basically, if i dont take fiber tabs, i feel better... It's just constant bloating no matter what i eat. There might be something stuck but i dont know.. just gotta wait and see.

i got mine for under $700, i'm sure u can get em refurb-d for under $600