shizzzon

Now hold on sundownz, don't offer an idea scrapper yet, hehe, i still gotta look over somethings.

hey bigjon, you r crazy man, i am not the walkin money tree..... Gotta change the subject real quick.. I checked out CM's UL line... 18lbs is CRAZY light, but not for $2k.... hehe, that was a crazy company but i'm not that rich.

Awesome then, don't take this the wrong way but 40lbs is light. I'm trying to get a list of all my equipment that i "might" use and the 3000d was in there... I just figured it weighed 45lbs, hehe, guess not. I was sweatin over here hopin you wasnt gonna say over 65lbs, around 40 is nothing, great. Electrical-(bose301s) For daily use, i'd assume you would need at the very least minimum a single 300a alt, recommended dual 200s\dual 250s. minimum of 250aH worth of batts. This is my assumption.

Ok, just read about this, gotta ask some spec questions as my build will be coming VERY soon but if this amp fits my needs then i wil be more than willing on waiting 3months for it if necessary. You don't have to be exact since these arent built yet so ball park figures are fine. What do you think the weight of one of these will be and will the length be under 40"? I can care less about the output specs since i'm assuming it's similar to the 3000d, one thing that i am curious on is - will this amp feature dual 0/1 power and ground? Thank you for any feedback.

can someone explain this to me in simple terms of how it works? I'm trying to understand how it works but am giving myself a headache. I want this amp to power 2 fronts, 2 rears and 2 "show off" external speakers. Now, by doing a standard wiring job, all 4 in car speakers @4ohm would be receiving as advertised 100w per speaker. I set all the x-overs on the amp the way i want them to be. I then decide to hookup these 2 extra speakers in tri mode by bridging each of the 2 speakers on ch1+2 and ch3+4. This is where i get lost... If the original speakers were receiving 100w before, what are they getting now including the add-on speakers? The amp is rated for 320x2 @4ohm... so i was thinking that all speakers receive 107w a piece? But then again that doesnt sound right either so i'm confused. I need to know how much power the tri-mode speakers will receive so i know how powerful of a pair of speakers i need to purchase for that hookup. ALSO- can't do it if this won't work either- These external speakers are marine speakers mounted behind the grill of the vehicle for show off purposes. They will need to be on a kill switch. Is the proper way to do this in this wiring scenario to just run + or - on the kill switch per speaker? also, if that works, if i decide to turn the speakers on, do i need to make sure the amp is OFF before doing so?

if your design is suppose to have the ports 7" long, then the entire assembly needs to be 7" long. So, if the flare is already 4", for example, then you only need 3" of tubing.

it's a weight issue, need less amps as possible, that's why i want to try the tri mode thing. 2nd, someone told me i needed marine speakers for this application. All it's for is just for louder instrumentation, no bass. I'll have to see if i can shut off the internal amp in this HU i got, never looked yet. That does sound easier, forgot about doin that. Ok then, no tri mode for me, hehe. I am racking on all the equipment in a big list and seeing how much everything weighs so i know what i will actually run in the vehicle. Trying to stay under 400 lbs.

if u really love the low bass, you need to have the box tuned lower than 34hz. Try 28-30hz.

i've never used trickles before but i'm sure that's normal. Remove the charger off the bat and measure it again later. If it's the same voltage then it's holding a charge. I dont know why the charger keeps coming back on for? Is the charger geared toward charging this type of battery?

f1 cars arent street legal either. But you do have a point.

well, that's a good comment. No, i dont like to compete. For fun, non sanctioned events sure, but sanctioned events is just a turn off for me. I hate to ask this so i wont ask it like i'm a noob, hehe. I personally need to aim my goals to the cheaper alternative because i need to buy me some others things soon so that'll save some money. Those AA subs, all of them seem interesting. What has been catching my eye is also the Assassin 8" driver. I have an idea but i noticed that the Fs of the 8 is 38hz and even though they recommend tuning at 33hz, i'm afraid it might not reproduce the lows in the high 20s on up to well... My option was to run either 4 Arsenal 10s or 8 Assassin 8s. I know 8 8s "should " be louder than 4 10s but i know nothing of AA so i'm clueless of the 8's potential.

HAHA

I was thinking about buying a projector for my Nintendo Wii for the weekends only so if anyone has any experience with projectors, come on in and fill me in with some info. Now, this projector will only be used for the Nintendo Wii so i was looking for cheaper priced projectors. The ones i'm looking at are 800x600 so res is compatible with the Wii. These projectors i'm looking at have 1500-2000 lumens and about 2000:1 contrast ratio. The cheaper priced ones are considered business projectors for some reason... Anyways, i wanted to project this projector on our garage door outside during the weekends and have Wii battles out back at night. So gots me a couple of questions. Do i really need a projector screen? I prefer not to have one since all the ones i see are mounted up and pull down. This is suppose to be a quick setup, quick put away type of event. These projectors i'm looking at range from 40-300" large so i figure 100" would be superior quality. Out garage door is all white, smooth coating on it, no windows. I figure i could get by with it fine using a large projected image on there... And i wont want a projector mount either. I don't know exactly how projectors project images angle-wise but i figure i'd just set it on a table outside and adjust it from there. So sound workable?

ur broke but are about to purchase over $4,000 in just subs and another $3000 in amps just for bass? I'd be sayin i'm broke........AFTER all that, not before, hehe.

Here are the results, hope these help in your decisions as they have helped me.

Well, that meter is comin in handy... I've got spreadsheets on my computer right now of multiple setups of what they do from 30hz-52hz in 1hz increments off of a 100w amp. I chose low power so when i make a change i can see it's difference better with low power. So far i've tested 8 different positions(i don't list all of them due to bad output and tested others with failure as well in output potential) using 1 10" sub ported at 42hz(just because it's only box i have at the moment before it gets warmer) (This is daily driver only) I've tested all positions AT THE HEADREST ONLY. So, all the Db ratings below are noticeably low. I've been to comp before in the past but man!, gettin loud at the headrest is ridiculous, hehe. This is really gonna be a challenge. I'm either gonna have to buy me another box or build me one so i can do further testing in a couple weeks from now but this is what i have found out so far- Test is having sub and port on baffle. Measured at headrest, all windows up and doors shut for following measurements- Sub up, port up, passenger side, right behind back seat- 117.6Db 47.7 watts Sub up, port up, driver side, right behind back seat - 117.7Db 47.7 watts Sub forward, port forward, drivers side, right behind rear seat- 115.11Db 56.3 watts Sub back, port back, 15" from hatch door- 118.8Db 47.7 watts Sub back, port back, 11" from hatch door- 119.7Db 47.7 watts Sub forward, port forward, passenger side, right behind rear seat- 118.8Db 47.7 watts Measured at headrest, windows rolled down for maximum reading(sunroof does NOT help being open at any amount) Sub forward, port forward, passenger side, right behind rear seat- 118.6Db 47.7 watts. Note- with having windows down with this setup, the entire test from 30-52hz was within 116.2-119.1Db varying wattage of 5.8 watts - 95.8 watts. This was the most consistent scoring output level. Sub back, port back, 11" from hatch door- 122.7Db 47.7 watts The next box i will be using to test will have port on a different wall. Conclusion- Best results are obtained by- firing back(driver's side), firing forward(subs must me on far left and\or right side with port in middle or there is a significant drop in output), firing up(driver's side) The test box spans to almost full width of car when firing back and forward. When i build test box, i will install wall extenders to see if taking up more volume in the car under certain tests yields higher readings at headrest or not. Again, all tests are at Driver's side Headrest ONLY. The scores you see here will more than likely be higher when measured for competition purposes on dash or kick panel. More updates to come in a couple weeks.

if this sub is nothing around 200w, then this is gonna be awesome. What i'm curious to know is if this 8 can be optimally ran in a 0.5 cu ft ported box. If it can, hell yea because that would definitely beat 1 10 compared to 2 of these 8s.

get me the height and width dimensions for your bed. I doubt i'll need depth. I'll see what i can come up with.

Ok, everything has been typed into word. to be convenient for those viewing this thread, i will take snapshots of all the documents so if you do not have Word, you will still be able to clearly see what is in the docs, This will be posted tomorrow afternoon.

Ok FINALLY, hehe. I got my box testing done. There is a LOT of information i have to type into Word, might take the rest of the day, don't know yet but when it's all done, i will compress all documents into a rar file and post the link to where you can download all the information i obtained. And on a side note real quick, this is a hatchback and sub up port back was NOT the loudest, but close.

i also refuse to help people with car audio install based upon a price that i dont agree is enough. When you get the "know it all" kids sayin "for that much money i could have gotten this and be way louder" crap and others taking that as fact think that we pay too much for what we have. Then they come up to ya and ask you to do a setup as good or better than what u got for like 1\5th of the price it cost you to build your own. IF you don't think the output will be great, don't do it. Tell 'em why and if they don't like it, tell him that's why u dont like it. Have em go to a shop and try to get them to do it when they probably get charged $500 for for doin a 4 15" install.

not quite, you can play a good bit more under tuning than that. its not like you loose all cone control the second you go under tuning by 1hz. and for your inaudibility comment, you're off by a decent margin as well. That's true, last box i built that was tuned to 29hz, i had the SSF set at 25hz and my setup was fine for over a year before i sold the car. And hopefully you can hear below 32hz... Music starts to get interesting in the 20s. Anything below 20hz is inaudible by the average person.

yes, adding an extra port will increase port tuning if adding another of the same size.

That's interesting, didn't know that could happen due to amp being screwed to metal. I've never screwed an amp down to metal either by the way, hehe. I've always mounted amps to wooden shelves and had them mounted to the frame.

you should hook up a good surge protector to the wall with a kill switch on it. Run a cut extension cord from the surge protector to your sub. Make sure the surge protector is turned off when hooking everything up. When you are ready to burp, turn the switch on with something non conductive for safety reasons. Kill the switch the same way. If the sub starts to move out of control on whatever base you have it sitting on, do not move it with your body, again, use something non conductive for safety reasons. Also, voltage output is typically 120v. Maximum amperage output is typically 100A. Resistance for that is - 1.2 ohms. I do not know if anything bad happens, if after rise, resistance is below 1.2 ohms so don't question me about that. What i do know is 120v and 100A = 12,000w of power at the right resistance load. You also must understand that when hooking up a speaker to the wall, to get maximum power, hook it up to the MAIN breaker, not some small 20A breaker somewhere because that thing will trip too quick.