shizzzon

i've never done that, never trusted a setup like that. If i ever show off when i'm parked, it's either car is on or if off, not turned up that loud at all. OK, you've helped out a whole whole lot, thanks.

I am planning on buying HC1800 and 5 HC600s soon. I want to use Knukonceptz Konfused battery terminals on these batteries but it appears that Kinetik's battery posts are for ring terminals only. So... while i was surfing, i found this- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8425_K...P+-KHC-TP-.html So, if i buy those, all i have to do is unscrew the ones off of the batts, put these on and that's it, right?

well, let me ask this- Do you think with these batts and 300a alt that i'd be fine running 4kw bass and a sundown 100.4? I'm assuming that the bass part will be too much to handle for consistent durations anyways since i've never done anything this loud before. If you guys don't think this is enough electrical, i'll back it down to 3kw of bass, but i think 4kw is doable as long as i don't prolong it.

ok found another calculator. It doesn't take into account the maximum amperage a wire can handle before it catches fire but this is what this other one says- if 490A were to pass through single 3/0 wire at 18ft, voltage drop would be - 0.662 volts. measured resistance 0.0013 ohms. But, when fusing from battery to battery, i pretty much just fuse by wire capability or alt rating? So, i'd use 300a or smaller in between batt up front and batt bank in the rear, correct? Then from the batt bank in the rear to amps, each amp is fused externally with regular 1/0 wire. Since i can keep wire short there, voltage drop is very minimal. One other thing also- When grounding all 5 of these batts in the back, i take it it's wise to not only have all batts in parallel but also try and ground them all individually as well for best ground possible?

No, i do not plan on it but this is what i do know- I do not know exactly what the float voltage is of kinetik batteries but whatever it is, the voltage right before the battery better be quite higher than the batts voltage itself. IF it isn't, the alt will never charge the batteries. Now, if the voltage is significantly higher than the float voltage, then all current draw will be supplied via alternator. Quick spurts of current would come from the batts because voltage regulator wouldnt react quick enough for that. I used that calculator from the website you posted. However, i'm trying to find a different calculator to see if i can get better results, dont like theirs, hehe.

Thank you for that detailed response. The reason I keep mentioning multi cable runs is because the more cable u have, the high my voltage will be. Like on a wire calculator- Using a single 3/0 wire compared to 3 2/0 wires is almost a full volt difference. So, if I drop 1.6v using 3/0 but only drop 0.5v using 3 2/0, shouldn't I do multi runs? I know calculators don't take into account that the wire will eventually reach another battery bank which keeps voltage up... But this is mainly so the alt's voltage stays high enough so it doesn't dip into the batts. Isn't that how it's suppose to be?

There is a rule of thumb in terms of if you were competing. Never make the port larger than the total surface area of all subs combined. In your case, don't make it any larger than 175sqin. I do know port area affects output potential. Too small can limit output but too much can also do the same thing i'm sure. Just like installing a super large exhaust pipe on a stock car. You've eliminated a lot of back pressure that it once used. There is no for sure method of knowing too much is too much without testing but for your scenario, there is no way that would be too large.

ok, rockford fosgate carries 500A fuses. So...what should i do. And i got the actual wire specs- 1 wire is stinger's 3/0 wire. The other 2 wires are knukonceptz kolossus wire 1/0. That's the problem with attempting to fuse each line... the stinger line will pull more current.

on my head unit(alpine) turning on HP on HU only high passes speakers ran off of HU's internal amp. So... if yours does that too, then the full range setting on the amp that is powering those speakers is running all frequencies to it.

That's quite a bit of port area you have for what power you're running. Works good, i bet, with higher notes that you probably used in comp.

i have to use the one up front to finish the requirements of batts needed to run this setup. I'm only gonna have 5 hc600s in the rear. I have an hc1800 up front, which u see is needed for my setup. Oh and with a 300A alt too. And there are 12v fuse terminators in this install as well. I "could" use them as my actual in line fuse holders for my multi runs of cable. This would also prevent my batt up front from dropping below 12v while driving to allow me to start the car again. Multi runs of cable is used to have the highest voltage possible by the time it reaches the batt bank in rear.

i had thought about that, but am unsure on the "real world" scenario of doing that. One of the 3/0 wires is different than the other 2 so it will have the capability of pulling more\less than the others. Also, i was unaware if splitting wires like that would actually divide the current up exactly like you say it would. What prevents one of those wires from "trying" to pull the full 500 at a time? that's what i do not understand. Also, if one of those 3 fuses pop, the other 2 should pop relatively quick. IS it possible that before the last fuse pops that the wire could burn\melt or catch fire before fuse pops?

Jesus!

dd and aq's 8 are about the same. there power ratings are slightly different but that's for abuse-sake. AQ recommends running 500w clean power instead of 300. DD's 8 can handle a little bit more for burping but not noticeable to the ear. you can also run the AQ in 0.7 cubes NET compared to DD's 1 cu ft. DJ from AQ said that he has a competitor doin over 150.0 with only 4 8s! I can care less about the details because i'm not goin to comp but that's insane.

After removing all non-wood braces and screws from the box, i use a sledge hammer to break it down.

Thanks man, just wanted to be sure. I like the look of these plus they arent that expensive either. I'll use a local store for a backup purpose.

i seriously doubt the steering wheel or glass will break with 4 8s. I hope u get those 8s on a meter because i was gonna go with those exact 8s but decided to go with who i've always went with in the past.

i take it this is more SQ oriented right? Not from experience, but Ascendant audio has an 8", jl audio 8. If you are goin for just loud, i am about to do an install in my ride with 8 Audioque 8s off of 4,500w. I've talked to DJ about it more than once and says they can handle clean up to 500w all day with burps up to 900w.

...they make thumb drives all the way up to 32gb

thats what it is, it has typical HP/LP/Full. However, since the subsonic filter can go as high as 500hz, it can do bandpass.

# CH 1 & 2 Variable HP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB # CH 1 & 2 Variable LP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB # CH 3 & 4 Variable HP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB # CH 3 & 4 Variable LP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB # 10 Hz - 500 Hz variable subsonic filter (CH 1&2 and CH 3&4) # Subsonic filter allows for band-passed crossover configuration How can it not do bandpass? If someone wanted to run a bandpass between 60-300hz... u can do it with this amp. I plan on buying this amp because it can bandpass.

i had planned and planned on using it but my new setup consists of a final 2 ohm load so i can't use it now. From what i researched, pasmag tested it to do 4,800w @1ohm 14.4v and around 3,600w @1ohm on 12.6v

Well, i was sleeping in the basement and i cant tell if i woke up due to the shaking or because the person upstairs was yelling earthquake, haha. This is the 1st one i've felt and in the basement, it was awesome. Felt like an ultra subsonic rumble that gradually got less and less powerful until it just stopped. Makin me think.... I want this song with that stereo setup, hehe.

dont know how much power you are lookin for but the sundown 100.4 amp does bandpass on all 4 channels higher than what you need so it would fit you perfectly. rated at 100x4 @4ohm 160wx4 @2ohm.

that doesnt mean you should bypass what is recommended to run an amp that can draw 500a or more. As a rule of thumb for music, you should have half the fuse rating of the amps in aH for batts. So, like i stated before, 250aH for an amp that can draw 500a. The long term output alone from the batts is not what to look at(not talking to anyone in specific) but the goal is to have enough power from the batts so if\when it does draw off the batts, their voltage level will stay high even during high current demands where alt just can't do it. The less batt you have, the faster the batt will drain. The faster a batt will drain, the lower the voltage goes. For anyone, noobs and experienced, i would still advise in getting the Cadence FH-8 block as i use it on my amps so if any amp that is ran through it gets sent anything below 12v, the block will automatically shut down power output from it before it gets to the amp so it doesnt potentially damage it. You can get the block for under $50 easily so for a $1,200 intro price, you could actually run one these blocks on a stock electrical system with this 5k amp and be safe... Although it would rarely ever be on since the block would keep it off most of the time, hehe. The block reacts superfast. Think of your cd skipping. Now, instead of knowing it's skipping because it's scratched, think of it as every time is stops, it's your amp being turned off due to low voltage then resuming when voltage rises above 12v. Something to use not as a suggestion but as a hopeful mandatory purchase.