shizzzon

Doctor's office finally called. They STILL have not told me what is the results of the Ultrasound even thoguh i've been slowly getting worse, yea!!! %^%*&(#$^#$. Anyways, they got me scheduled to go in next wednesday for an Upper GI. There gonna stick a colonoscope down my throat.... nah, haha, but i am getting an endoscopy. So, hopefully they can find out what's wrong then if i dont feel worse afterwards.

don't have time to read all that link but you will only notice a difference if the driver was fresh when you got it then broken in at a later date. If it comes broken in then you should never notice a difference. All the things about how to break a sub in, all that is bullcrap. There is no need to baby a sub forever before wangin on it... If everything is set right, let it rip. The longer you baby a sub during a "break-in period", the longer it takes to break it in.

if u buy 2 of the same terminal, some terminals are marked + and - instead of just being universal. You should know which is which without markings since the batteries themselves(factory ones) are marked right on themselves.

All right, now you're makin it harder than what it really is- I'm gonna tell ya what all you "can" do, not necessary to do everything as the more u do, the stronger it gets. All thread runs from one side to the other side...ALWAYS. So, drill 2 holes at the same point on both sides of the box. When you slide the allthred through, put washers and nuts on both the inside and the outside on both walls... So 4 nuts and 4 washers. Use 3/4" allthread. When the allthread is about to be in position, run threadlock all over it and then run glue and then sealant on the outer edges that meet the wood. If u run 2 different directions of allthread, make sure they come together EXACTLY in the center of the box and use a 4way connector as this is the God Grip. Use L brackets every 12" on ALL adjacent pieces on the inside. For parts of the box where allthread is impossible, u have 2 options+ 1- use 2x4s on the outside 2- use some sort of metal countersinking nut with a base on it that does not go through to the other side so it keeps the allthread in there. Double baffle is good. Maybe double up on all sheets. For even more, take 2 sheets for all walls, in between each sheet, fill n pour with sand/saw dust/cement. Hold the sub in- Use hurricane nuts and run the bolts through that. Or run bolts backwards and threadlock em and finish off with nuts on outside. Bolt box from inside to frame of car. Use some sort of tape sealer around outside of sub. Paint the box. If I think of anything else worth mentioning... I'll post it

Someone should form Team NooB and see what happens. I want to get everything but the alt done withing the next 16 days! I'll attenuate the preout signal until I drive down to TN to get my alt installed.

From those who have experience with these batteries- I need a total of about 4000 worth of their model numbers... For instance 2 hc2000s or 3 hc1400s, get me? Ok, i got a small area to put batts in, i had emailed them asking if i'd be all right if i ran 6-7 HC600s in the back... They told me no, it wouldnt last that long before they were completely discharged. They said the HC600\800 are like large caps, not long-term batteries due to their short reserve time(too bad they dont post reserve time on their site!!!) So, i called them up just now and got ahold of someone on the phone who sounds like he has less experience with them than i do... so i come here. For daily driving only, i know 3 HC1400s is good enough but the email suggested that i install 1 HC2400 and 3 HC600s as the HC600s will discharge quicker giving the amps a stronger impact on the subs... The HC2400 is their widest 12v batt and i dont have room for it. Am i really gonna me missin out on some quick hard wangin by runnin 3 hc1400s compared to if i had their caps batts?

dont view me as a noob, Christ, hehe, yes, a 300a alt @2k, 140a @ 750

you would think so.... why would they still have it up there? The only thing i have noticed is telling the program what size width your port is. I think the port width is external which is 100% retarded if that's true. It looks like it is from the picture... Type in 0.75" as port width, it looks like the wood walls join completely, that's what i am talkin about.

i havent gotten the time to test their calculator yet but because that calculator is ONLY for L shaped slot ports, standard port length calculators, including ones in software will actually be wrong unless they have a specific selection for L port calculation. In a slot port, part of the physical length requirement is actually acoustical length because slot port shares a wall which makes the acoustical length longer and the physical length shorter. This is why people may say their calculator may say use a port length shorter than expected. Don't quote me 100% as that's what it's doing because i havent got time to compare it yet.

Your first post has got to be the sh*ttiest post i have ever seen!

oooo daddy came in here and told u turn that Down! hehe. I'd run an XXV Maxximus on 2 of them. Haha, i hope you don't do that. 1,500w amp will do fine.

That's what they're called. Maybe it's some companies way of warning people before buying it.... Warning- draws High current.... terrible efficiency... look at our other lines...... cheap ass <cough...cough> hehe

that's why high efficiency is a good thing, especially if we are talkin about goin over 2kw of power. If you wanted to up to 10,000w of power, for example, but are trying to save money, High Current amps may be cheaper than the class d alternative. So let's say you bought 5 2,400w HC amps for $299 per amp. Well, let's say 5 2,500w class d amps were $500 per amp. $1,500 vs $2,500.. you'd go with $1,500 to save money. Let's say the HC amps are only 65% efficient whereas the Class d amps are 80% efficient. Now, let's say either setup, you have 4 200a alts in there and 5 HC2400s in the rear. 5 HC2400s is good for 12,000w of power. 5 2,500w amps is 12,500w and 5 2,400w amps is 12,000w so we are right on so far. Now, this is where things start to change- Let's say that the fuse ratings for the 2,400w and 2,500w amp are the same at 250A. 250 x 5 = 1,250 \ 2 = 625A which is considered average draw for music. So now we focus on efficiency at 625A of draw- Class d amp= 80% efficient - to draw 625A @ 13.0v 13v x 625A = 8,125w of power draw. @ 80% efficiency, it will output - 6,500w of power! High Current amp= 65% efficient 0 to draw 625A @ 13.0v 13v x 625A = 8,125w of power draw. @ 65% efficiency, it will output - 5,281w So... how much more power is needed for the HC amps to output the same power as the class d amp?- Another 1,219w How many more amps? It would need to PULL 769.2A to output 6,500w which equals a need to pull an ADDITIONAL 144.2A of current. So, what do you need to do electrical system wise for that? Kinetik's battery names are done like taking averages of amp draw by 50% of their max rating. If you have 200A fuse, take half of that, 100A and that should be your battery's aH rating or summed aH rating. 5 HC2400s have an aH rating of 630A, this example was for 625, close huh But because you tried to save money using HC amps due to low efficiency, now it looks like you have a 20,000w setup rather than a 12,000w setup! Remember, the 6,500w output from class d amp is HALF of the maximum installed wattage potential, (going by fuse ratings). So, if the HC's draw an additional 144.2A, you would need ANOTHER HC2400 AND about 1-2 more 200a alts equaling 5-6 alternators! How much money did you save when you bought the amps? $1,000. How much money must you drop into the vehicle now for getting the electrical supported? $330 for the battery. $550 for 2 more alts + custom brackets......again($100) Another large ass amount of wire $80 Total so far- $1060 Plus you gotta remember- the lower the voltage goes from here, the more current it will draw over the class d amp anyway so power requirements might actually be more than this under heavier loads! See the pain involved? Adding extra battery, takes up room, weight, re run more wiring, gotta get another alt.... do u got room for another one, will one very large even fit? Efficiency is a must. Sometimes i wish my car was completely 48v. They were suppose to start doin that soon but havent heard anything about it in years. The reason i wish is the higher the voltage, the smaller guage of wire you can use and the smaller the batts can be. Large this and extra battery that is all blamed on high current draw, nothing else.

contact Kinetik to be sure but i thought you couldnt charge theirs higher than 14.4? The less voltage one can handle max means one of 2 things- 1- it's float voltage is lower than a typical agm battery or 2- it's internal resistance is lower than other batteries.

Damn, I thought that was to scale, hehe

oh i can probably do it anytime, i just cant eat anything before leaving just to be safe. Been waiting almost 3 full weeks for ultrasound results. Called twice, doctor has never returned my call. I'm in a stage right now where i am on a thin line of being able to control the pain. If it really starts affecting me bad, real bad again like it has in the recent past or some new bad symptom occurs, i'm goin half-psycho at the doctor's office, i'm not playin. I will go right in there and go off. The medicine they give me doesnt work, 2 different prescriptions so far, the results aren't in, i could be gettin worse, sometimes i feel like i definitely am and no one returns my calls. That's a good reason isn't it?

haha, you sound like one of my friends replyin like that, haha. whatever amp you choose, make sure that it's the most efficient amp you can get. I'm assuming you're not gonna be install any batts or upgradin your alt so just lettin you know. I would suggest gettin the sundown 1500d also, i know that things efficient.

haha, you wont be able to flex it, but pressure inside the box can. i got a vid on youtube of this one sub i had bolted down to my trunk floor everywhere. You couldnt move that box for nothing... but when the lows dropped, the box was trying to pull the trunk floor up with it shuttering like crazy. The rod is called all-thread and you would want 3\4". I would run L brackets on the corners that need it, space every 12-16" All thread from one side to the other, nuts on inside and outside, washers too. 2x4s on inside or outside depending on where u got room at if necessary.

nothing ever happened really. If you would have asked me that week, i would have said no because of how i felt. The pain comes and goes so you just have to ask and i'll do it, dying or not, hehe. Oh, and i was told the exact same thing about the foam thing..... Only problem is, i dont think i'm putting the side panel back on to get more box room and if i dont put that panel on, there is no where for foam to "fill". It would be a forever gap!

Ok, i've never ran multiple and have come to a barricade here so fill me in. 1 battery up front, 5 batteries in the rear. 400A for bass, 90A for mids\highs. Total Amperage fuses needed- 490A ~ 500A. Ok, first off- I'll have 3-4 runs of 3/0 wire going from front battery to rear battery bank. Right now, i just have 1 3/0 wire ran which is fused with ANL fuse and no fuse at other end because everything is dismantled right now. With 3 runs, i was going to attempt to use a bat terminal that had 3 1/0 connectors on it. I run the alternator to one of those leaving 2 left. The factory electrical wiring goes into the other slot leaving one left. I'm assuming i'll use a distro block with reducers to run 3/0 to 1/0 reducer into terminal, the other end runs into a distro block... In between the terminal and distro block is where i put a fuse holder in.... I CANNOT FIND 500A FUSES! from car audio industry. I have found one... only one and it's ANL actually but main purpose is for gas powered boats with large battery banks. It's on ebay so who knows how much longer it'll be available especially if i ever needed another one. There's one problem... 2nd- Once all these runs reach the rear battery bank, is it ok if i rerun all 3 wires into 1 3/0 wire using distro block, fuse it with unknown fuse then let it go to battery bank? Purpose is to get lowest voltage drop possible but with properly fusing at every point. Also, when i ground all 5 batts in the rear, should i ground each battery to ground rather than just have 1 master ground off the bank?

hehe, that's funny that you say that because DD and AQ are all about saying tiny boxes = tiny output, the larger the box you put our sub in, the larger your output will be.

People keep thinkin i'm going to compete.... i understand why but this is my daily driver. I actually have 2 AQ HD3 15s from a previous install... i'd LOVE to use them in this car but i can only freakin fit one in the back, even with the spare out and everything. After the batteries and amps, the MOST i can get for 2 15s is like 5.5 cubes... that aint enough. Now.... i "could" extend the front of the box over the back seat by permanently folding the backseat down but i don't wanna do that.....do i? My plan is to run 8 Audioque SD2.0 8s off of 2 AQ2200ds. That's how it stands for right now. I got room for that. I've been comparing a LOT of setups. I'm tryin to keep the sub quantity to not surpass 100lbs due to weight issues in the car. 8 of these i think weighs 104 lbs. I've compared the following setups- 4 DC Lvl 3 10s 3 DC Lvl 4 12s 1 AQ HD3 15 8 AA Assassin 8s 3 Fi BL 12s 2 AQ HDC3 12s Out of all those, i strongly believe 8 of these 8s are going to be the loudest of them all. DJ told i can tune as high as 37hz and still drop right under 30hz without problems with these 8s due to their suspension system. Tuning that high saves space inside the box which allows be to run up to 8 of these. The only thing that comes close to surface area is 3 12s but Fi's are a lot heavier and DCs are more expensive than 8 of these 8s are.

well, i got to foolin around and comparin one wall to the other. The wall that's fine has the gas cap there which probably acts like a brace. The other side, if i put my hand right where the gas cap would be if on that side, press hard in that spot, the WHOLE side of the car stops resonating when it's being beaten so i'm gonna try a couple things just in that area. Spectrum is a good idea but due to the amount pressure needed, might even need sludge there. Hopefully sludge can stick to walls without falling.

the Db results that you got posted here, did you test these subs in the order that you posted them? Because if you did, it appears that the voltage was dropping more and more which would indicate the batteries not being fully charged for the next test.

i just got done reading what it does... it doesnt put out more power... it allows you to drive the amp harder and longer and prevents it from clipping so early. It says it's mainly for comp use, Deathmatches probably. I don't have the link on how to do it because it doesnt load for me anymore, i was just reading the result of the mod.