shizzzon

pointless power draw! After so high, i think it might be around 80 or 90, the subs will start to draw so much power, in excess of 200A that it would be better off to let the midbass do it for less than 20A and still be almost just as loud if not the same. Also, i do not know when i will roll off the rear fill either... Won't know til i'm messin with it.

Ok, before i purchase these, let me know if you think it's gonna be loud enough and reasonably par sound quality. The sets i've chosen are TOTALLY different so you might go wtf for a sec as i even did when i made these choices, hehe. Front stage- 6.5" components Rear stage- 6.5" midbass drivers Chosen- Front - Alpine Type X Reference Rear- Audiobahn Midbass Driver Why? I am running 4KW of power, normally about 2-2.5 for longterm daily. I just need something louder that doesn't sound like garbage basically, nothing spectacular that just makes your heart stop quality, nothing like that. I have a Sundown 100.4 already. I was looking at the reference and Pro line of these Type Xs and think i'll be fine with just the Ref line. I chose Audiobahn drivers because these little suckers have always been a hot talk about how good they are in the midbass range. But... those were in enclosures. I have expanding foam, i am going to attempt to put them in an enclosure surrounded by that stuff so hopefully that will work. Cost - $350 for all 4 speakers. Is this the best choice money-wise?

oh no, i dont want 3way, no room. Just narrow midbass in the rear and my main and ONLY main stage up front high passed from whatever on up. I won't know frequency until i get em in. I was just reading reviews on Mach5Audio's 6.5" midbass and for the price, Jesus! that's a helluva deal. I am also attempting to pick up some used Image Dynamics 6.5" mids as well. If the deal falls through, i guess i'll get the Mach5s.

yep, i have 2 12s in the far back, 2 6.5" midbass drivers in rear fill, then front stage 6.5s I won't know exactly the x-over points exactly until i set things up but the front stage probably isn't going to be going under 150hz. The rear stage will probably start off in the 60hz area and work it's way up until i decide to roll it off.

u can strap the sundowns but only advisable at 2ohms.

i know but i was talking about the "Smaller solo x's" that i mentioned above saying that in their manual, kicker recommends running less than rms rating to them in ported enclosure.

i know it can take 3kw daily unclipped. 4kw brief periods, again unclipped. 2kw with slight clipping allowed... SLIGHT clipping.

you know Meade runs 4kw amps to each of his. But you also must know that he doesnt go around jammin it at that level either all the time. The BTLs only have a 3" coil. That right there is a thermal limit that you just cannot surpass. How long is it going to take before that sub starts to overheat? I don't know but i, again, do not recommend doing that. 3kw FULLY LOADED on the old BTLS were the MAX recommended by experienced users who have owned the BTL before. The new BTLs are comin soon. Who knows if they can handle more power thermally... only time will tell.

i wouldnt advise running that much power to one of those for daily in terms of, that's the normal level you plan on playing them at. I don't think they can handle that much power all the time.

Scottie Johnson's van hitting so loud that when i was holding the video camera from about 40ft away it buckled my knees for just those 2 seconds he let it rip! 3 yrs later when a car got metered at doing just over 172db and being SO SEALED TIGHT, i could talk louder than the vibration that emitted from it!

nope, because there is a sealed box enclosure that can handle the full 2500wrms according to manual. the 10s and 12s are 2500w and the 18 is 5000w. If the 18 is like the other ones, it is only gonna handle 3-4kw daily. Really need to know your voice coil option. for a money saver- 1 ohm can get ya 4kw at $700 2 ohm can get ya 4.5kw at $780 1 ohm can get ya 3.1kw refurb'd for $700 If you wanna go crazy, if you got dual 2s, you can get 6KW for $1120 More crazy? Dual 2s again can get ya 9KW for $1,560 Little less crazy? Dual 1s can get ya 7.8KW for $1,400 Let us know ur VC configuration.

oh i know what u r wanting to do. You have a height limit and because this forum uses HTML when making posts, you cannot space more than once unless you made a table but that has to do with...... well nvm, back on topic. Port in the middle..hmm well do this, if u can- Can you turn the box upright so all the subs and port are on one side of the truck? Test it like that behind passenger and driver seat and see what's louder. whichever side is louder is what side you need the port on. You can also try just putting it in the middle as well. So, if it's louder behind the passenger side, then the port goes there and subs behind driver side.

keeping the port in the middle will allow the subs to move more in sync but will not be the loudest. I've never setup a system inside of a truck so with what i'm about to say, you may be able to fill in the blanks. On a ported box, you have the port and sub(s). Driver's seat is on the left obviously. When the port is on the passenger side, the driver side will be louder and vice versa. So, i am "assuming" that if you had the port behind passenger seat and all 4 subs behind you, it would be ungodly but don't hold me to that because i've never done a truck setup before. If you have ever had a ported box in your truck before or still do, play around with it to see if this is true for your truck as well.

how much power can it handle in the box you are gonna put it in? I remember reading their manuals and them stating that for the smaller solo xs, they may be rated for 2500wrms but their recommended ported enclosures only recommended 1,500w... That's why i'm asking that question. Need to know what type of 18 u purchased too, D1 or D2?

Ok, it's getting REAL CLOSE right now- Another forum is suggesting i go with 2 AQ HDC312s because they and i both know they can handle 2K per driver easy. (I've ran and still own 2 HD315s so i know how they sound, which is fine to me.) The ICONs are a no go now since i have too much power and wouldnt get as much potential as i could with a driver that feeds on power. The only thing left that i know of is 3 RE SX 10s or 2 AQ HDC312s. And to be honest, i almost purchased the AQs last night and forgot to make sure there was nothing else that perked my interest. Unless something drastic changes my mind soon, the AQs are gonna be it. 2 of the AQ HDC312s have more surface area than any 3 10s i have looked at. 2 of these 12s actually have about as much surface area as the Alpine Type X's i believe. Well anyway, my build log will be started in about a week or so on this forum so stay tuned. Someone stole my video camera bout 4 months ago so the only thing i have vid cam wise is a picture camera. Never used vid cap feature on it so it probably sucks. I need to buy another vid cam soon though.

I've been putting this off for too long just researching so i forced myself to finalize a box and i did today so there's no turning back now! This is what i have to work with and YOU will decide what goes in my car Box specs- EXTERNAL- Height - 17.75" Width - 36.25" Depth - 17.75" Double Baffle Design INTERNAL GROSS - 5.06 cubes Amps - 2 AQ2200Ds or 2 Opti2000Ds I won't buy the amps until i know what ohm load i'm working with. Both capable of producing 4,000w at 1 ohm or 2 ohm so their's your start. Port spec - This is port displacement based upon power used. IF you pick a design that can't handle 4kw, then port will take up less volume allowing more NET volume. 4KW- 0.87 cubes displaced 3.5KW- 0.75 cubes displaced 3KW- 0.75 cubes displaced I can ONLY use 8s, 10s or 12s. 15s won't fit due to what's in front of the baffle at the bottom. Here is the choice i have right now- IF YOU THINK you know something that can get louder, Post it up! I have chosen 3 10" Alpine Type Xs wired down to 2.33ohmsDC\2.6 ohms Nominal on a strapped pair of amps capable of doing 4,400w @2ohm and 2,600w @4ohm for box rise purposes. Result- They may only see about 3,350w max due to ohm load restriction. That may be pretty loud though, any takers? Before posting, please take into consideration that your choice will FIT my box specs so you already know sub displacement of whatever speaker lineup you choose. The Baffle can hold up to the following- (this doesnt mean i have the internal volume, that's for you to consider, this is just what can fit on the baffle) 3 12s 3 10s 4 8s So far, Alpine Type Xs are winning....

caps are good for use in the following scenarios- using bass amps that use unregulated power supplies. You have enough alt power to run your entire audio system. If you fit BOTH of those categories, then by all means get some. You can actually have regulated amps too as long as you have enough alt power behind it. Caps discharge very quickly so what is this good for? This is good for those quick hard hittin bass notes, to get more power to your amps so they discharge more power to your sub(s). Caps aren't like batts so constant bass lines will cause a cap to drain in no time. It is then up to the alt to charge it back up and run the audio system. Strong enough alt setup can do this but once the cap is drained, the bass line will lose power for a little bit until the cap is recharged. This is why it's suggested to use LARGE cap banks nowadays when running large alt setups. Such as 100-200F minimum. For unregulated amps, when your voltage dips, the caps can help keep that voltage up for a quick spurt but, again, only if your alt setup is powerful enough to run the whole audio system by itself. Batts are a LOT slower at discharging. think of them as voltage regulators and think of caps as split second last resort power. Batts will help keep the voltage up higher because they have a helluva longer reserve time than a cap does by FARRRRRR. It is always suggested that you upgrade and\or add alt(s) and\or batts when installing an audio system that needs an electrical system upgrade but batts definitely over caps. I would suggest calling Iraggi though before buying batts. His average alt costs less than $320 shipped and that should give you around 200a worth of power so see if he can make one for ur ride. I know he's the only one who can make one for my ride that i have found out of all the big names out there.

I have the Viper 5900 with several extra sensors plus Grade 3 bulletproof glass on my vehicle, extra siren with battery backup on the outside, 3 internal Peizo sirens and 2 additional 130db outside sirens INSIDE the vehicle. Total cost- $1,600

Get Kinetik Audio batteries. This was taken from their site- I heard that adding more batteries to my car will lower the voltage and is harder on my alternator, is this true? Adding multiple Kinetik Power Cells to a vehicle will not add extra load on your alternator or lower you voltage in your car like adding

take it to the dealer

Wait, the HDCs have a longer suspension than ordinary drivers do. Get or make a test tone disc with frequencies 28-40hz on it roughly. Start playing at 38hz and work your way down. When the sub appears to be moving more than what you think it should be moving, start to increase the SSF until it stops moving dangerously. DJ has told me those drivers can play a good amount under tuning before over-doin it.

How much does 1 BL 10 weigh? Also, if running 1,400w to one, can i get away with p chamfer or is cooling required?

Also, 3 RE SX 10s, i know the weight of these babies and they seem pretty capable of getting loud.

How about the following since i am still researching-- 3 Fi BL 10s... 3 SSA ICON 10s Subs must be under 100lbs... I think the FIs are more than that but can't confirm that and nobody knows the weight of the ICONs supposedly...

LouD daily driver.