shizzzon

i'd only do it if they promised to sell to SSA members RE's product line for the price they USED TO BE, before US amps decided to come in to play. I've helped 418Fi quite a bit on boxes, he still has my Steak waitin for me in Florida. HEY 418FI!!! DON'T FORGET, hehe I could help you built it yourself. The LEAST required tools to do it right is the following- Skillsaw or table saw jigsaw Drill screw driver That's all you need for minimum. IF you got all of that, then i can help u build your own box for probably under $45, if not, just another sheet of MDF which would put your total cost around $60.

if they can handle 18v system then it will... If it's maximum voltage is 16v, then NO. I'm sure you are wiring those batts in pairs of series then paralleling them together, correct?

that link is just like WinISD, it does NOT calculate what will happen in the car. I'm sure this design you want is going in a car. That link i sent you is accurate. Also, i just got done reviewing the RE calculator, and to my surprise, it's WRONG! WAY OFF. Well, not WAY off but not pleasing. I did a test- 24" high 24" wide 24" deep INTERNAL GROSS so far - 6.59 cuft. Port height - 22.5" Port width - 4" Tuning 34.711 hz OK, this is where everything starts to be wrong! Total port length - 34" (that's wrong, it's suppose to be 32" because it's a slot but for Mike P.'s sake, we'll let it slide) Port length 1 - 19.25" (that is correct) Port length 2 - 8" (this is oh so wrong, not because it's suppose to be 32" total, oh no, it's wrong on it's OWN PART!) See for yourself- Port length 1 - 19.25" The width of the port is 4" so the internal corner is a 4" square. When measuring a port's length, you measure down the center only. So, when the port bends, you measure down the center, but how do you know the length? Simple, Pythagorean Theorem. What is half of a 4" square? 2" square. a^2 + b^2 = c^2 So, 2^2 + 2^2 = c^2 So, 4 + 4 = c^2 c^2 = 2.83" So we add that to 19.25" and get - 22.08" Now remember, Even RE said we need 34" total length, i say we need 32" because it's true. We only have 22.08" now and the L bend has already started, so according to RE, we need 12 more inches... So why does RE say we only need 8" more? That's only 30.83"??? I do not know why but it is wrong. That would increase tuning. Ok, you may think being off 2" raising tuning 1.5-2hz isn't that big of a deal... Well, that isn't the only thing that is wrong. RE's calculated port displacement - 3060 cu inches internal... WRONG!!!!!! wrong wrong wrong wrong wrong... Do you know what it did? It did not calculate the total internal port displacement like it said it did... It calculated internal port displacement as if the port NEVER bent.... that is 100% wrong. And of course we are going by the picture, there is no 45 degree brace in the corner of that port so the whole 4" square is there. The following is if the port never bent to prove how the calculator is wrong( again, in a minute) Total INTERNAL port displacement of 22.5" x 4" x 32" = 2880 cu in (this is what it should be, but only if port never bent) Total INTERNAL port displacement of 22.5" x 4" x 34" = 3060 cu in (this is what it says but it never even reach 34" long... pathetic. Total INTERNAL port displacement of 22.5" x 4" x 30" = 2700 cu in (this is what it told you to make port but what ti calculated and what it told you length needs to be is different so it confused itself!) Now, it then calculated that Port displacement, which is after wood thickness... is only 19 cu in more than internal displacement?? WHAT?!?!? this calculator is full of ignorance! Now you will see what total displacement is after wood thickness- 22.5" x 4.75" x 32" = 3420 cu in (this is what displacement would be if port never bent) 22.5" x 4.75" x 34" = 3633 cu in (RE calculated 3079.8 but it never even achieved this length to begin with...) 22.5" x 4.75" x 30" = 3206 cu in (this is what it told you to make it but still didnt equal it's calculated 3079.8, wrong again....) Now, you WILL SEE TRUE DISPLACEMENT- When a port bends, it's displacement compared to a straight port changes obviously. Compare the total displacements i just showed you above to see how wrong this program is once again. 22.5" x 4.75" x 32" with L bend as shown in pic - 3393.27 cu in 22.5" x 4.75" x 34" with L bend as shown in pic - 3607 cu in 22.5" x 4.75" x 30" with L bend as shown in pic - 3179.5 cu in Numbers are in fact just slightly different then a straight port, less displacement even.. But small miscalculations consistently can and will eventually change something. Oh and also, it doesn't account for sub displacement because hey, why would it? they obviously forgot to put that in there too. So RE's calc is what Mythbusters would say BUSTED! Since it can't do sub displacement... how are you gonna get a precise calculation? simple the reason way how you are gonna get a precise calculation on every other thing it's off on. IT likes to use numbers in the .xxxxxxxxxxx value and still can't get simple math right. I'm ranting but i'm glad i finally tested their calc.

the best one is the link i showed you above. The RE calculator... i am suppose to go over that calculator to see if it has any discrepancies in it's calculations but i have yet had time to check it out. Mike P. difference is small but difference is there. IF someone were in desperate need for perfect accuracy in tuning, this is a must know. Competition is one. If you are pressed for space in your box, this is another good time to know this. I might check that RE calc out now, ..i'll attempt it, heh

Smart A time Pros - it is available to use on BTLs and i assume it's another cooling type option but not a fact yet. Cons - It costs money.

No, a slot is NOT a square port. A slot port is a square port that uses 3 of it's 4 walls from the enclosure wall. Looking into the port from outside, when you reach the end of the port, the acoustical length is LONGER than a square ports because it is still using the enclosure's walls as part of the port. IF you did not know this then the designs that you have done for yourself are actually tuned lower than you think.

Ok man, sorry it took so long, got ur results- Cut port area out 2.75" wide x 14.5" tall Run port back 11.75" back and stop. Turn 90 degrees to make an L shaped port, keeping internal port width 2.75", run port an additional 13" long. Total length required - 27.5" realistic length - 27.445" Tuning 32hz. 40 sq in of port. Looks like enough for what power you have. Not only that, but if i went any bigger, your box size would become non optimal according to Fi specs so this was a close call. OH and in addition- IF you are wondering why 11.75" + 13" don't add up to 27.5, that's because it doesn't, hehe. Internal port length when making the turn inside the corner is 1.945". 11.75 + 1.945 + 13 = 26.695(or 26.75") + thickness of wood, 0.75" = 27.5" long.

T/S parameters have NOTHING to do with tuning a box so pick any sub in there and calculate your port length. WinISD does NOT calculate slot port designs so your design will not be accurate with WinISD.

I got THE THING that you need. Bookmark this site- http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 go down a little and there you have it, make sure you choose slot port because slot port changes the physical length required compared to a square\round port because acoustical length is increased by sharing part of the enclosure. Oh, and the REAL length required is about 11", 11.14" to be exact. (this is for 7.2 cubes net) Remember, slot ports require less physical length as mentioned above. It is rare to find a slot port calculator, that's why i made a thread about it the other day until i found this calculator. Because slot ports use less physical length, they displace less... meaning that you will gain a little volume back inside the enclosure as well.

Thanks guys. I go in tomorrow for mu Upper GI so hopefully yhey do at least 1 biopsy on me because if they don't, there's only 1 other hole to go through and I've left that reserved in case I ever went to prison, lol Forget the pms guys, yea I'm from the PRP area. The new subs will be here Wednesday so pics will be here. My ID will be here soon too so that'll be up here. I keep trying to win ebay auctions on real expensive components but they keep sellin over 200 dollars. If I don't win somethin soon, I'll just go with alpine type-r components.

I want to make sure I calculate this correctly because apparently i am slightly off, either that or other manufacturers are off. When calculating port length, let's say it says to use 26" long and you are, for example, using 12.56sq in of port which is for a 4" diameter port. Radius is 2" I thought to calculate slot port length was to take the 26" depth and subtract from that the sqin radius by converting the sqin value to a circle then finding the radius, which in this case is 2". That would then make the length 24" but when looking at manufacturer's giving you specs like a baby, either their calculations are wrong or i have been told wrong! So, what do i need to know to get tuning one is looking for?

i didnt mean it like that, get it! As long as you do not have a clipped signal, you will be fine. Make sure you set your subsonic filter according to mechanical movement and not to guess. Al you do is setup the amp via o-scope then when you are done, start playing notes right at and below tuning by slowing turning volume up until you reach your maximum unclipped volume level you set the o-scope up at. Once you reach a note that makes the sub dangerously to you, start increasing the subsonic filter until it moves less. Then that will be set.

that amp is more than enough for one of those. Build a box between 4.5-6 cubes NET ported and it'll do wonders.

came across something "odd". This calculator that i posted above, let me give you guys the info and answers it's givin me because somethin is "odd" about this- 3.8 cuft tuning - 40hz 1 slot port Dimensions - 16.25" high x 3.75" wide Required length - 18.69" As mentioned earlier, the height of the slot port effects the acoustical length so i reversed the dimensions- 1 slot port Dimensions - 3.75" high x 16.25" wide Required length - 12.44" The port for both calculations is using 3 walls of the box for the port... Both calculations are the same really, it's just the port is turned to it's side in the 2nd one... I don't understand...Is this accurate? My internal box dimensions are - 16.25" high x 16.25" deep x 34.75" wide So you see, both scenarios max out height and depth(this is width for the port in 2nd calculation)

I wouldn't see why not. As long as your surround setup consists of only running 1 wire to your powered sub, then it will be no problem. However, if u had a setup like a pc system where everything was controlled from the sub amp, then you would have a problem.

No, that's not entirely accurate. I still haven't found the actual formula but JL audio mentioned something about it. I believe they actually have the formula and i was just too tired to do the math. Anyway i found a calculator that will do it for you and yes, if you change the height and width and maintain the same sq in value, the length does change so it must be accurate. http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31

You could do 5 dual 2 ohm subs..... maybe. The DCR load of BLs would be exactly 0.6 ohms, which is only 0.1 ohm shy of 1 ohm nominal. I would rather prefer you try this wiring with an amp that doesn't mind dropping below a real 1ohm for brief periods such as Sundown's SAZ amps but it is possible if you kept rise up.

You could do 10 8s, 11 8s would require side firing. You can do 6 10s, 7 10s would require side firing. You can do 4 12s, 5 12s would require side firing. If you did the 8s, they need to be dual 4 ohm. If you did the 10s, they need to be dual 4 ohm. If you did the 12s, they need to be dual 2 ohm.

I'll see what i can find if u can wait for a few min-few hrs. I know baffle-wise, you can fit 11 8's, 7 10s, 5 12s. Volume-wise, i'm about to research it. Oh and i just looked, i seriously doubt you can fit 3 15s. The outer rim on the 3rd 15 hangs over both the top and side of the box making it impossible to screw down.

it could have ejected the wire too if it was not tight enough! A long time ago, before i knew what i was doing, i had a class d amp go into protection due to the power slipping out of the terminal... When i checked to see what happened because this happened while driving, this is what i saw- Burn marks all around the power terminal which means the wire had arced all around on it's way out. But the most shocking thing is 2 of 3 fuses in the amp got shot out of the amp! I'll never forget that.

I have never liked BP designs for daily use... How are you gonna get the subs out or what if something simple happened inside and needed a fix... there goes the box. Also, that box looks way to complicated for it's purpose. I still don't see an acceptable reason for slanting the subs baffle when he supposedly clearly said it is not a good idea. Maybe this design isnt a good idea? I can see you just runnin a flat wall from left to right or it won't fit, do a tunnel design like Meade did. He isn't the only one who has done that either. I remember seeing one truck with 8 12" XXXs in it like that, all in the bed of course. You can easily get to your subs if need be too.

it is a scion tc. Hatchback style vehicle. In that test i did, i temporarily sealed off any way to fill additional volume behind the front baffle making the remaining volume considerably less. Box was tuned to peak at 36hz sitting right behind rear seat with seat folded down. Tested on both driver and passenger side with same results.

and expensive ones give you destruction.

that's what i use... although mine is massive.

i missed that part. IS everything ran through the same turn on wire and if it is what wire is that?