shizzzon

better too long than too short.

seriously, i think 2 hc2400s with a 300A alt should do it for ya on an average level. 3 hc2400s would put you above recommendation for batteries.

would you know by any chance the length of them? Also when u say bolts, u refer to allthread, correct? they dont actually have a head on them do they or if they do, is it the same width as the thread itself?

check out www.db-r.com He is certified to sell refurb-ed sundown amps. A lot of us have done business with him, excel over excellent in customer service and work.

Welcome! 1 HC2400.. that's it? MAn! I'm about to install about 5kw in mine and plannin on running 1 of those plus 2 more kinetiks and 300A alt.

well, was messin around in the car today just lookin at what my car looks like before i change it, hehe. I grabbed all the pieces of the box that i cut and clamped them all together and put it in the car so i can get a REAL measure of just how much room i have for batts. Surprisingly i have a little more room than expected. OH, and when i closed the hatch door and got inside to look at it... My face just lit up with the smile of the Grinch, This enclosure fits this hatchback perfectly! The amps are timely theft proof but i would be kinda stupid to say why but anyways, the reason why i posted this is this- I am going on 2 weeks vacation starting after i get off work on May 16th which is Friday. I REALLY REALLY REALLY want to get this whole install done sometime while i am on vacation. I need people's feedback to get this project rollin without anymore obstacles! For one- Powermaster users- What kind of terminal posts are on Powermasters? Are they removable like Kinetik's or are they permanently installed? If they are permanently installed, then how tall are they because pics of them look like they are only 1\4" which isn't tall enough for anything! 2nd - does powermaster offer side post brackets and if not, will kinetik side posts work(the powermaster terminal must be removable)? And finally- If i have this massive battery bank in the rear, what is the likelyhood that current draw will also be pulled from the starting battery? A lot of people say it won't but some say maybe... What's the point of an isolator? See my point of confusion...

in the higher end, let's say 50 and up, tuning that low will cause the sub to heat up quicker in my experience. When i've tuned in what exactly u say, high 20s low 30s, the resistance rise in the 30-45hz area is at least double it's DCR. Now, after 50hz, resistance rise starts to heavily drop(i know this is enclosure dependent but this happened in more than 1 enclosure as well) which increases power output from amp. When the sub(s) tend to play these higher notes tuned that low, they don't move that much but are accepting a ton load of power, a lot more than what they were getting in the 30s and 40s for sure. So less movement, more power, more heat buildup. All it takes is for the user to start clippin his amp just showin off and there goes the thermal limits of the sub in a matter of minutes.. or maybe even seconds. Now, when you say use signal processing to help the higher end? What exactly do you mean by help? Attenuating perhaps?

i didn't have that feature with my previous installs, it was just all or nuthin, hehe I got some with my new install though. I don't know how loud 4,900w really is so i got remote gain controls up front for all amps.

and to answer your curiosity anyways- .75 could\can produce some lows but 1-1.25 would have done it a lot better. Myself personally, i've personally owned some low tunes enclosures that were just crazy to me. The last setup i had, i metered 144.3 at 31hz, that setup was the ungodly but lacked anything over 50hz. Those types of installs started ruining my cars. Tuning that low is\was fun and all but i have a new car now, an 07. I wouldnt want it to start going downhill just because of my choice of tuning. I love lows, don't get me wrong but i just don't want to love them strictly anymore. My next setup is going to be tuned to 38hz and i will be able to get down to the low 30s, not with force i'm assuming but audible to say the least. I'm after more of the 40hz area now so i can have the loud effect and still enjoy the music that I listen to that goes down to the low 30s without all that destruction that comes with it.

i'm not familiar with how to calculate port area for aero ports but i do know that if it were just a regular 6" pipe, that surface area would only be good enough for 1 12" and that's bare minimum requirement at that.

exactly.

exactly, i can understand why he says that. A lot of HO type alts run at minimum of 14.4v then of course if u have externally regulated alts, it's up to you how much you want to have. 14.3v isn't fair, in my opinion, for an upgrade and can see why people would have problems. Powermasters can accept up to 15.0v according to their site so that's a lot more convenient.

not if the rca's are shielded you won't. It's best practice to do that but sometimes it's impossible and those are times where shielded rcas come into play.

but what if we had 2 different subs with the same Fs and installed in the same box tuned to the same note? I'm gonna say higher linear excursion also helps but i do not think going by excursion alone can make a final decision.

It's highly unlikely it has anything to do with his alt. I'm assuming it's just that his alt may produce a higher voltage than others without modding anything.

the funny thing is by setting your gain with dmm and listening for clipping, just 1 note isnt gonna cut it. What if the resistance at 50hz was as close to 2 ohms as you are gonna get. Different frequencies have different rise outputting different power. Also, the higher the resistance is, the higher the voltage will be. So, for example, if u had 55v and 14a when measured at 4ohms after rise, that would be - 770w But at the same time, if u measured at 36hz, it might have been 48v and 20a after rise at 2.4ohms which would be - 960w These arent real numbers BUT can be. That's why setting an amp up with dmm isn't accurate. For companies like JL audio and JBL amps that use crown technology and some Phoenix Gold amps, you can do this because of varying acceptable resistances all output same power.

Well see i dont know I was just about to post it's ok for a stock alt but..... that might be correct for older cars... These newer cars like mine, the ECU controls the alt so I can't just say yes or no. But, i can tell you this to help you find the answer quick and easy- Have something in your car that pulls a big load, such as an aftermarket stereo system. Play a test tone at fill tilt. Get a DMM and measure the voltage at the battery terminal on starting battery before the test tone plays, then while it is playing, then about 30 seconds after the test tone is done and ALL loads have ceased. See what your voltage reads during all those. IF it's ever over 14.3v, it's not a good choice to go with a kinetik in that install. Same thing goes with batts in the rear. People have an advantage because there is voltage drop. How much? you must measure and see. I'm gonna be hookin my 3/0 wire up in a couple of weeks and when i do, i'm gonna measure voltage drop from front to rear so i know what product will work best for me.

i see you watching this topic...... Tell us what it was or you're banned! hehe

when the sound goes crazy, does any one of those amps go into protect? Get back there and see if the protect light is flickering.

if u take it to auto zone, do NOT let them disconnect your power wire to your batt from alt while car is running. OH and one more thing, have you ever checked the voltage your alt puts out when above idle? Kinetik's do NOT like anything out of the range of 14.0-14.4v

I recently ordered I'd CX62s to run off of my sundown 100.4. I want to find some 2 ohm comps that can handle around 150wrms and can be had for around or less than 200. I got my IDs for under 150 so hopefully it's possible.

Hey, glad you posted here M5, I would have seriously went with what you decided before with the 3 10 idea but when i went to actually go to placing an order for them, it was between 3 10" icons and 3 RE SXs and both had an issue with my app. The Icons were to be wired right at 1ohm DCR which is odd but was afraid i wouldnt get the power i wanted. The RE SXs were to be wired at 1.2ohm DCR and that setup would have been ran off of a 2ohm stable amp which i was too leary about trying with brute power. Yea, the icons would have actually been wired to a pair of amps that wasnt even gonna exceed 3kw so i decided to just go with this setup instead.

You are not suppose to, I'm warning him NOT TO!!!!! The remote wire is just as active as the power wire because it actually is a power wire, just used for a different purpose. So do NOT ground the remote wire... be very careful.

Good Luck to more than just me, i gotta get some people from Louisville such as phi (i am politely asking, ) to help me lift the equipment in the vehicle when the box is done being painted in fluorescent paint.... Did i just spill another surprise?!?! We'll see when that time comes.

I'll Lube you in a minute! I mean...