shizzzon

if you are using 0.75" of the length as the thickness of the wood when air travels out of the port, then for 38hz it need to be exactly 16" long. Of course if you cut the box to where the port length runs all the way out of the box, then it will need to be 16.75" long. For 34hz, it needs to be 22.5" long if using the outside wall of the box as 0.75" of the port length.

yea, i literally am going to be taking up so much room in the hatch area for this install... i don't even have room for 1 more amp, not even a small one I was gonna work on painting the box today but.... met a friend i hadnt seen in forever and i just got home... Well, STILL havent talked to my alt guy yet, but i WILL monday since i'm on vacation. Also, i gotta contact iraggi one more time before i make my choice with going with him or the other company because i've been researchin his 300A alts in general and someone got one for their SUV and it was just BARELY larger than the stock 110A that was in his and it performed perfectly for his daily driver and a couple other projects were also daily driver with no problems whatsoever so Iraggi may just end up winning this one! Plus i gotta look at it like this- He offers a lifetime warranty. Even if it's my fault for somethin, it only cost me $99 to have anything fixed on it...

if ur not gonna upgrade your alt, then do not install an hc600 or hc800. Any additional devices that store power will be another load on your alt. the problem with these 2 models is they discharge quicker than there other batteries. So, you can look at these as humungous caps. That setup will work if you drive for a period of time all the time without a big laod on the electrical system so u can let the alt charge the batt back up. IF you got a regular batt back there, it would be a lot better but you would still need to let the alt take time to keep the batt in the rear charged as well. Of course the stock alt isn't powerful enough to run the car AND these amps or even just the 800w 100%, your lights may dim slightly but it won't damage anything unless your daily driver consists of daily clipping which would put a bigger strain on the current draw.

Oh, if ur problem is the high notes then I see 1 or 2 problems here. Port area is fine for higher notes. U r tuned lower than necessary to get in the 50s-60s loud and I also believe u could get a lot louder in that range if the box was smaller as well. The very minimum, 5 or 6 cubes net would have been a lot better

Even though Fi may recommend 12-14sqin per cube of port, this also has a factor of how much power u have available too. the purpose of having a large enough port is to prevent audible turbulence for your daily driver. Now, with that large of box, you would normally have quite a bit of power available. That statement has no reference to a single sub, just box in general. So with only 1kw of power, port area can be quite smaller in this scenario. If you were to have a turbulence calculator, it will help greatly! I'm not home right now but I think u may be able to get away with only 45sqin but don't quote me on that until I confirm it!

http://performanceparts.com/product_group....d=4&sgid=21 They do not charge shipping, just handling of $11.xx

Got another update, my front speakers just got here!! Now, remember what my rear fill is? Image Dynamics CX62s... 150wrms @ 2ohm- Now, my front speakers are also Image Dynamics. Image Dynamics CXS65CS - 100wrms @4ohm but more efficient than the rear fill. And now, the front and rear fill together-

The following is going to be presented as Company A and Company B to prevent biased responses. I have been told a LOT of information from 2 different alt specialists about my car so if this were you... what would u do? My car is an 07 scion tC. It uses a special alt that uses a hairpin stator. At this time, there are only these 2 companies that offer alts for this car. The design of the alt itself- it uses square windings to fill more of the gap inside for increased efficiency and to get as most amperage out as possible as well. Now, here goes the specs of each company and what they say, u make the call... Company A- Offers a 300A alt, 140A @idle, $700 warrantied forever, literally. Pros - only 300A alt in existence for this car. the highest output at idle as well for this car. Decent price for only 2 possible choices to choose from. Cons - Says this large rated alt uses standard size casing... Claims it will not overheat because if the wire doesn't get hot then the alternator will never overheat. Has had alts tested before that did not do what they were rated for. Company B - Offers a 225A alt, 52A at real idle, 110A at 850rpm, 225A max, $700 warranty is unknown at this time. This alt is rated for HOT output and is tested on multiple rpm ranges guaranteeing it's output potential. Pros - This company spoke to me on the phone for 19 min explaining in VERY specific detail on how my car's alt technology works and how it is physically impossible to fit enough square winded wire inside the alt to support 300A because of the use of the standard size case and the fact that the heatsink(s) on a standard case are not capable of dissipating the heat generated from such a monster if one were to be created in such a case (if the impossible were done that is). The alt is guaranteed not just by them but the alt technology them self that i would be getting the largest, efficient alt possible for a scion tC. I have not found a single problem with the company and have been in business for over 30 yrs Cons - If everybody was tellin the truth, 225A alt is the same cost as the 300A alt. Does not apparently offer a lifetime warranty. What i am getting at is... even if the 300A alt doesnt do 300A... surely it isnt as the most 75A shy of it's rating, right? The only thing that makes me worry is this- Company A that claims 300A alt using standard factory case may overheat eventually even though he says they have never done so... So maybe i just worry too much, who knows...

i dont know what your net volume or tuning is but u say u got 18.5" of length... Now, this is correct but you have more acoustical length with this type of port than a standard port. You may not audibly hear a difference but here is an example of what i am saying- let's say 18.5" physical length required would tune to 32hz. Well.. when doing slot ports, divide half of the internal width and add it to the port length. So 18.5 + 1.875 = 20.375" This is what it will act like and that, for this example, might tune it down to 30hz. Whatever the tuning goal is, if u do not know this, u will actually be tuned a little lower than you think.

Well, i'm gonna make another thread in more than one website asking this following question so i can get opinions on this but look for the question in the electrical section called Alt choices. I havent had a chance to see about converting my car into the first dual alt setup with AC intact cuz i had to work some major overtime, i'll try tomorrow hopefully.

The only person that hasn't gave me in depth info is Iraggi and I don't wanna come off as a hard-ass questioning his work for the 3rd time over the phone. The only way I see it convincing on Iraggi's claims is if he can prove it's capability before I pay anything meaning I would have to drive down there obviously... That's almost 100 bucks round trip.

i would suggest running 2 10s but in this case, because of what power you have, 1 12" Audioque HDC3 would probably do it. I will HIGHLY suggest to build the box as large as possible, u say u have 3.5, use all of that space. They only require 2.5 but u have just enough power, your in between the enough and wangin line when it comes to power, hehe. You should be able to tune the box around 34hz, maybe even 35hz and be able to drop that low. I wouldnt try it with the HD2.5s because they don't have as good as suspension as the HDC3 does. With those subs, you can tune higher, which means getting the higher notes without a rolloff and still be able to drop lower without bottoming out. That is also install specific as well. It is still up to you to properly set the subsonic filter to prevent damage as no sub is the magic wonder, hehe. U got my choice. I own 2 of these but have yet to see power, the suspension on them right now... SUPER FRICKIN STIFF! These things have an Xmech of 3" and i can barely even move them right now.

Update on build Log- Got my sub cutouts done, FINALLY, i had a chance to use the router before anyone else had to use it! I got all cutouts done on both baffles... Now, it is time to start painting the box and making the cutouts for the baffles for the aftermarket replacement speakers. Gonna finish the box off with 320grit.

Ok, i got time now- So.... i had been talkin to Iraggi for a while now about this 300A alt goin in my car, 07 scion tC. Iraggi was the only one i found that could make one period, regardless of size. Well, i was out measuring something underneath the engine bay and Powermaster had contacted an Alt Specialist called www.mechman.com I asked him why they even contact you to call me? He said you are in search of an alternator, right? I say... well i believe i have already found one and he is the only one who knows how to make one for my car... He, (Matt), says, what kind of car are we talkin about? Scion tC, 2007. Oh yea, we make em for tCs and xBs. So, this is where everything changes. I try not to mention Iraggi but eventually he inquired about it since there was a LOT of confliction in what he was telling me vs Iraggi was tellin me so here is the rundown- My car uses a special alt technology that uses what's called a hairpin stator. This is suppose to be the most Highly efficient alternator period. Meaning output the most amps without loss of amps due to heat. So, we get into this little conflicting debate- Iraggi tells me he can build me an alt for $570 which is 140A @ idle, 300A max using the Standard Alt Case?!?! Matt tells me the largest alt you can make for my car right now is a 225A alt, no ifs ands or buts. But why? here we go- My alt uses "square windings" rather than round. This allows you to fit more wire inside. There can only be so much room before you run out. Because Iraggi mentioned using the factory case, MAtt said there is no way in hell to possibly fit enough wire in there to support 300A. Impossible. He said not only that, but it will eventually start to overheat, even though Iraggi says it won't, there's too much wire inside for it not to. Mechman is asking for $690 for a 225A alt, Iraggi is askin $570 for 300A alt which is impossible. Mechman said at 660rpm, i will only get 50A at idle... but at 800rpm, i will get 110A. You know what that means don't you? NST Overdrive Alt Pulley will need to be purchased also.. So now i'm at a total of $800. Then installation and labor to install the pulley- total of around $1,000... I'm gonna stop by my local alt shop and speak to one of their good ole mechanics over there and see if he can find a way to possibly reroute ALL of my antifreeze lines and some other misc hoses and see about custom fabricating another bracket for a dual alt setup. IT is said it is impossible to do on a tC without removing the AC but i want to see what kind of creativity this guy can think of.

CHANGE OF PLANS! I can no longer go with a 300A alt.... I don't have time to go into why but it looks like i'm gonna be goin with a 225A alt instead which is actually more money, lol.

? I went with the Audioques, Denim. I would have went with the Icons but i wouldnt have got the power to them that i wanted. You know if u buy 4,400w worth of amps, u wanna be able to use that power since it's your money, hehe.

why shouldn't it? Thermally speaking, with a doubt. I know this is goin off a little but the AudioQue HDC3s have been known to take 6Kw for burps according to DJ so asking if a Nightshade can do it is asking if 4awg speaker wire is big enough.... Get my drift?

if i were to have to pick anything bad about Fi, i would say the lack of a phone number. Regardless of the reason, a contact number that actually is available when it says it is speaks for itself. There are times i see on here where people can't get in touch with who they need to and the thing about it is it's not going to be a news flash every time someone leaves to go on vacation or something like that so the customer is left wondering what's going on. Besides that, i don't know of anything else.

Wahahahaha! I found out how i am going to do something Still havent made any progress yet because i am waiting on some necessary tools to become available to me once they are done being used!!! ahh!!! I hate anticipating forever. Ok, back to the something- I was stuck in the - i'm only gonna have 3.8 cubes NET for these 2 12s which is heavily pushing it, bla bla bla... Well, i now got the info saved in AutoCAD and i will have the full 4.0 cubic ft NET and be tuned at 37hz and be able to drop (hearsay, i'll find out later) down to 31hz with ease. It looks like i'll be gettin my batts soon as well....

i typed it right, the board changes it. I don't make typos that bad, lol.. and consistently at that. i know nothing of the coding language but the error says client. If there's a client, there's also a server. But i don't run this site so i do not know exactly how it's setup. The server for the coding language could be hosted at the same place as the company who hosts this site. It could be an add-on feature. This site's owner would just have the client to custom his own choices. Something goes wrong, either coding, or maybe the server. I know i said the client above may be the culprit but i meant the client could be when it comes to coding. The server would have to crash but if that happened, surely there would be a different error message other than blaming the client, hehe.

there's nothing we can do as members. an IPS error involves the forum itself which is powered by Invision but i do not think Invision's scripting is to blame for this problem. The error keeps referring to the MyLSQ client... So, whoever runs this website, , they need to see if they can troubleshoot this on their end via the MyLSQ client. If they cannot, they will have to contact the server administrator(s) and have them fix it or walk him through it. It can be as easy as the client just crashed and needs to be restarted... it's nothing major.

yea it's not that because i've tried 2 different browsers, one of which hadn't ever been used yet until now.

dont u know it, i've always said their 1000w power rating is a joke. What do you think DJ said when he seen an order for 2 of these and 2 of his 2200w amps? I can't remember exactly but i now on the phone he said these things will be performing at their best for copper coils power-wise for daily. I could have went up to 3kw per sub but not all day, just for brief periods. I'd rather be able to play loud at any time for any duration rather than monitor heat all the time. Just bought me a tennis racket and gun for my Wii, I know.. that has nothing to do with the build, hehe, but it passes time when i can't work on the car.

i'm pretty sure i am as well. I gotta call Powermaster tomorrow to make sure everything will fit with my install. If it will, then i'll have a D3100 and 2 D5100s

ok, so just the right size for a battery terminal to fit. ok thanks, gotta go do some planning.