shizzzon

I have a Scion tC and Toyota's warranty goes like this- U can do and install ANYTHING you want to on your vehicle. However, if you ever need to go in for service for something, if something you have done or installed is the cause of the problem you may be having with your car, then it will not be fixed for free. Your warranty is not void, it's just void per service date. You could install a turbocharger on your car if you wanted to. If the ecu malfunctioned, as long as a piggyback or ECM had nothing to do with it, then you are fine...Although if you have an ECM,hehe, your whole electronic system would probably be void permanently...but that's an assumption in that scenario.

i'm gonna be runnin 4,900w and a 300A alt is almost there. I really need a total of about 450A worth of alt power but it's impractical in my car. You would need about 450A worth for 4K + 1K for mids\highs or for 6K + 1K for mids\highs, you would need about 560A worth of alt power. However, since these numbers are just about impossible to get, minimal alt power can be- for 4K setup - 300A alt, for 6K setup - dual alts, 1 200A, 1 250A. For batt power - 4K setup - minimum of 250aH worth or something very close 6K setup - minimum of 350aH worth or something very close. I hope your suspension system can handle such weight. 4K setup for batts will weigh in around 155lbs 6K setup for batts will weigh in around 220lbs

Unless this is old news, ooops but is still nice to know- This is specifically for Californians and if it gets very popular it will go completely national then international. A Hybrid... that will be put on the market as planned by the end of this year... with an expected certified MPG rating(this is an all electric so they must be comparing gas to hours of power maybe?) of 330 MPG! As of right now, they are trying to get there... there last known spec was at 230 MPG which is ungodly incredible. Price tag - under $30K Go ahead and real full article and all pages throughout about the Aptera. You will see that they also take great pride in safety features as well so don't be fooled by it's looks when you see it. The Aptera Hybrid

OK, i got done talkin to Stinger about my setup. He said for me to put 300A fuses at each end of the main power line running from front battery to rear battery bank. So, i am taking it that 2 200A solenoids wired in parallel is not a good idea on this line, correct? Would i be better off running a 200A and an 80A in parallel? I am assuming too much relay is like too much fuse which is bad, correct? Too little relay will just damage the solenoid, correct?

I am tryin to figure out if i should install an isolator in my setup and have been reading a LOT of info about this and have came across a LOT of things that i have never read about before from others. I've read things like- Not using an isolator can hurt the starter by it receiving a superior CA load and may kill it quicker. Showing off with car off will kill starting battery. Now, i've been on Stinger's site and i gotta call them about some things because they got some products and descriptions that are just begging for answers! Such as their SRVG which shuts off power altogether in the rear to prevent front battery from dying.... really? How? And also, their 200A relay solenoid... This is ridiculous, i have never seen this before. Is this really necessary? Stinger recommends running a solenoid in between EVERY aux battery in the rear! Reason - batteries may not have the exact same charge and batteries are never perfectly identical... Um... ok but when the car is on, the solenoid can do nothing but let power be sent to all batteries at the same time for charging... When the car is off, it will allow an independent discharge for each battery but... the alt will charge them back up when car is on so do not understand that recommendation at all.

i'm doin fine right now,still some uncomfortable digestive feelings once in a while but no pain, which is good. Where's pics of the box? GOD, can't i work first!!!, hehe I'll take pics once i put it together. Gotta model some drilling points in CAD so i can start running allthread here, there... everywhere, over there, some in that area... bla bla bla. I should be done in the next couple days with the box.

i'm done painting the box! Next in line is installation accessories... My friend has convinced me to order all my accessories today and try and get this install done ASAP. When i say accessories... u know, things to get the audio equipment installed and wired up, we are talkin over $1,200 of just installation accessories! Now u see how i was just a little hesitant, hehe. That's more money than a lot of people's full setup on here and i'm dedicating it to just wire, blocks and batts.

sending pm.

ur fuse size doesnt matter because it shouldnt be drawing power, especially with the stereo off.

i'm sure the stereo was louder than the crash though, hehe

yea, fuses arent cheap when this stuff happens. I actually keep a whole pack of ANLs in my car in case somethin happens. Must have read over u havin a cap, so either do what john said above or if u fear about spendin more money on fuses or dont have any, let me see the amp for a couple minutes and i'll let u know somethin.

okie dokie, thanks. Looks like i'll be gettin 4 200A solenoids... Gotta call stinger tomorrow(even though i'm gettin PACs 200A solenoid) and see if 200A solenoids are enough... I'm pretty sure they are but just in case they arent... Got 3 batts in the rear, so 2 solenoids go in between each batt. then the other 2 solenoids get wired in parallel which are between the front and 1st rear batt. Those PAC 200A solenoids are almost half of Stingers 200A. I'm assuming the ground lead off of these solenoids doesn't have to be large correct? I noticed the terminal was small so i'm guessin 8 awg is plenty?

the way you are talkin, sounds like when you place the fuse in or reconnect your ground, as soon as you turn the stereo on the amp doesnt come on because fuse blows, right? If that's true then it's not the fuse size. From what you've tried, it doesnt sound good so far. I have a 12v power supply if u can give me your amp, i'll hook it up, fused of course to see if it comes on then. IF it pops the fuse ran off the PSU, then something internal is damaged. I'm afraid that's the case already but that's the last resort i can think of. I'm on vacation for 2 weeks so i am available 24\7 til the end of the month.

Natas - B*tches I like to F*ck. I've showed a few friends how crazy this song is. Throw this song into Audacity and look where it peeks at!!!! Better get your high quality amps out with your sealed enclosures because this song peaks in between 8-11 hz constantly. I have played this song in a box tuned to 29hz and WHOA!, i thought it was loud then, i'd love to hear.. or feel it's real peaks.

well i can help with that too! The IVA-W205 can be had for under $700 and i'm sure you can get an external EQ for around $300, definitely cheaper as well. I bought my w205 for around $640

then just get a double din with an external EQ... why not?

if u want just a single din, fill it up with processors if u want to use them or maybe even a smaller sized screen under or over the single din stereo.

couldnt ask for a better explanation, thanks. So, i was looking and you're right, electrical versions are discontinued and VERY hard to find. So, i'm forced to look into a Relay-type Solenoid. Well, since they come on when the car is on, then they will act like they are not even there... If i were to only play music with the car on, would i not need one? At the least, if that's true, Stinger's SRVG looks like a nice little device. It's only $37 and says it will shut off all aux battery power to ensure starter battery is charged. I don't know how it works since all the wires coming out of it are very small. It doesn't look like you feet the main power line through it at all which makes me wonder how it works.

I'm seein if i can save money but if i cant oh well.... This is for 2 AQ2200ds(200A per) and a sundown 100.4(90A rated about 65A used) Here are choices - Kinetik (i might go with powermaster but prices are bout the same so this is just the sake of kinetik) setup 1- 1 HC2400 (128aH) 2 HC800s (72aH total) Price - $632 setup 2- 3 HC1400s (180aH total) Price - $695 setup 3- 1 HC2400 (128aH) 2 HC1400s (120aH total) Price - $799 Kinetik has told me that their HC800 will give more impact than their batts above that model number meaning quicker discharge, like a cap. A while back, i emailed them requesting their suggestion for a 3,000w setup but obviously i've gone bigger, hehe. They said for 3,000w, they suggest 1 HC2400 and 1 HC600(20aH) for each amp. This would give power AND impact. They said i could also have went with just HC600s... They said it would be great impact but wouldnt last as long... because 5 hc600s is only 100aH. So... what do you guys think? For the time being, it will be off of a 100A alt, stock alt but will never be cranked because i know that won't last... Eventually the 300A alt will be in there. Rated for 140A at idle and 300A at max.

when i secure my box to the car, there is nothing factory about it! Remove all carpet and panels and see where u can secure it. Sometimes, you may have to leave them off too.

little update - I started painting the walls of the box today! yea!!! I'll post pics once all the pieces are done. Reason being is 2 of 6 sides i did, i made custom stencils for graphical images to be displayed in different colors, fluorescent colors actually so they glow at night with UV LEDs. As far as i know, everything should be done being painted by late Monday night so pics might not be up til tuesday morning. I got a friend that is offering to help me everyday to keep me on the ball to get this thing done ASAP. After he came over to see what was being installed, hehe, he wants to hear it to see if it was anything like my last setup which was extremely crazy anyway... I can say this for sure- there will be more pics, probably a lot more pics showing up here toward the end of next week! That will be when i am just about finished with this whole project... minus getting the alternator.

yea thats what i'm sayin because i'm gonna have that problem with my install. I have 4,900w going into this install but only 1 alt.. don't know if it's gonna be 225 or 300A yet and 237aH worth of batts. Whereas the batts will keep the voltage up for a little while, there will be times where i must not wang at full unclipped power so i can let the alt keep the rear bank charged. This is where a voltage meter is required to make sure i am not prematurely killing the batts.

yea, i was on my way to bed, didnt remember the actual depth of the box... But still, 22.5" long is required.

oh yea! Should be or somethin is wrong. it would take 5 12s to equal 2 18s.

it's not called daily clipping, i was saying if you clip your amp(s) daily all the time when you listen to music. Clipping will draw more current which is bad for your scenario and clipping is never good. For subs, it's hard to hear clipping unless it's as high as it can go... Clipping heats up speakers without the proper increase in spl, there are several bad things about clipping. When clipping occurs is when on a simple explanation, you have it turned up too high. A lot of people do this when they have an amp that is not as powerful as they would ever want so they try and get the most out of it and end up clipping the amp(s) because you can't hardly hear clipping in subs so when it starts really getting loud, people just tend to think they've found the amps sweet spot...