shizzzon

what size alt u have or what vehicle u drive so i can find out

well, i can't wait to hear your opinions on the sub since i have yet to go the SQ way yet. Wanna see what an sq guy thinks about em. I own their 12s and 15s. I know when you slightly underpower them that they sound so good. I am about to try to give them some crazy daily power soon so we'll see if they still hold their sound. I don't care if they do but i do just a little, that's why i got the Copper coils.

Audioque HDC315 Dual 2 ohm Copper coil. Audioque AQ1200D 1,470w @1ohm. Under $600 shipped. Put that 15 in 4.5-6 cubes ported for better efficiency. It will destroy your car.

you're right, u ever use AQ before?

Hehe, 8awg is pretty serious there! 12awg should be plenty unless you plan on goin over 3kw. I might suggest if you are trying to get every little watt out of the amp to up it to 10awg but if not competing, you wouldnt audibly hear a difference. Now, if you are running at 0.5 ohms or lower, i would also suggest using a larger wire as the current will probably be greater than normal.

it doesn't have to be that large unless you don't have a lot of power to give it... Recommended 1-1.5.

Well, here in Louisville, Ky, the news has just shown that parts of our downtown area has just hit $4.19 87 Octane and Diesel at $4.69. Now is the time for me to start doing some math and alternative transportation methods to try and save money.

well, i had a reason for assuming so. Low post count goes toward newbies... Well anyways, back onto the topic- 4 of those 8s would work very well in 4 cubes. I see where you are going with it, nice idea but i'd been there too. I was thinkin about doin 6-8 8s before i went with 2 AQ 12s. In your situation, i think 4 8s may have around the same surface area as 2 10s... somewhere close. Although, the 2 10s have a LOT more excursion capabilities than the 8s will. Plus, i'm sure the AQs are cheaper than all 4 8s too, right?

i cant believe you are comparing AB to AQ. You should be banned, lol Honestly, the 4 ABs would work well with that power but u will kick yourself in the ass later in life if you only knew how crazy loud AQs can get. The power ratings that AB gives their speakers are PEAK amplifier rated power, trust me. I've done some thermal tests on their eternal series before, couldnt even take 334w of actual power for a straight minute without thermal failure. They're rated for 900wrms.... yea right. IF you damage those subs... you gotta buy new ones. If you buy AQs, you get to keep em forever and get em reconed when damaged... not just a replacement but can be reconed to different sizes. i bought 2 AQ HD3 15s few yrs ago, i still got em. They still work, they never had a problem, i've never had a problem, they're crazy loud and now i have 2 of their 12s. I will probably never get rid of these either unless someone buys them off of me for more than they are sold for, hehe.

that's just crazy knowing that there is something even more powerful waiting if the current Z couldnt keep up with competitors.

don't forget Mechman

can someone explain how steve meade's 300A iraggi alts measured around 330A of output per alt? Back when he had just 2 300A alts from Iraggi on his Tahoe, they were measured of outputting around 670A of alt output.

u know i am curious... This sub costs so much money... so one would think that this might be the end all sub for just straight brutal spl... Well, why does it only have a 3" coil? A 4"coil would be able to receive a LOT more current. It can't be that a 4" makes it so inefficient that a 3" coil has better potential for higher numbers just because it may be more efficient can it?

if u for some reason do not trust other's test tones, make your own. I don't know if there is any free software out there to, well WinISD can but some "fun" software i use is called Goldwave. You can do a LOT with audio in that program. That and Ahead Nero's package comes with a sound editor too. I don't know if it is a generator but it's a nice editor.

do u have dimming now? Sit there at idle and jam and see if your lights dim. If they do, rev the tach up to 2,000 rpm or if you do not have a tach, just rev it up and keep it there, kinda loud but nothing too severely loud. Play a constant test tone for about 10 seconds when keeping it revved up. your lights may dim for a split second when the test tone tone comes in and should recover quickly. While the test tone is playing for about 10 sec, immediately pause it or stop and see if your lights get brighter. If they don't, then i don't think you need an upgrade.

how many channels and at what ohm load? Also, how do you want it, Class A/B or D?

what tools are u using to cut the wood, maybe i can help you get your cuts more perfect

i believe you would put them in a smaller box. Correct me if i'm wrong but if you had a 15 that was recommended to be put in 3-5cubes NET, putting it in 3 cubes would make it sound "tighter" as you would put it. I know the group delay decreases the smaller you go.

i have a rap song that peaks at 4,5 and 11hz. It also peaks in the low 20s and again in the 40s. The 20s is the highest, 4,5 and 11hz is next highest. I would love to hear that song in the right box.

i sent the amp into clipping and was able to get a 139.26 at the kick @49hz and a 139.11 @34hz. It appears i have 2 peaks in my car. And again, this is not the tlab mic so scores here are lower that a tlab. I do not know by how much though because i have nothing to compare too. The amp itself, i like it. IT appears to completely do rated power. I have high rise evidently but power doesnt mean louder... I should have the other amp in hopefully by this friday but that also depends on me too. The company who made this sensor said that when the tlab reads a 179, their sensor barely broke a 170 so i do not know how close they compare at lower levels.

what was such a PITA? i have 2 knu distros right now didnt have to much trouble with them Getting the compression fittings threaded straight was a pain, but getting them tightened down to where they wouldn't come loose was almost impossible. Oh my god! You aren't lyin! I have their Konfused battery terminals... I already crossthreaded one battery terminal insert because of their impossibility. The idea is a good one, but unless you have 2 hrs of patience, it's ridiculous to the HIGHEST level. It took me just over 2hrs to install the positive terminal on my starting battery. That is just stupid. They better not come loose either. I liked everyone else's terminal's where they're held in by screws but couldnt find any that could accept minimum of 3 2/0 wires.

this is what i do- I use 0db tones on setups that can get the most potential out of the amp(s) without clipping. I sometimes go back through the setup process and use -3 tones so that i can get the most output potential for music. Whereas using -3 tones then playing music might induce some songs into clipping, i don't really suggest anyone do it as a fully reliable way to setup an amp. Reason being is what if you started to play some songs, especially rap songs that have constant, non-stop bass, these are just like fluctuating test tones in a song, which are just as powerful as 0db created tones. Since i listen to mostly songs like that, i have to use 0db tones when i setup my amps so i don't end up killin the speakers in the long run but if you don't listen to music like that, -3 should do u fine. But, i don't use this method as a way to create the best imaging possible. I use this method to get the most safe potential out of the amps as possible. If i want quality, i can adjust settings later as long as i don't surpass what the settings were at when i setup everything.

Audioque is already aware of this so while i wait for shipping delays, i wanna know if u guys can think of how this happened before i have to wait a week before they tell me. I have 2 AQ2200ds strapped together. The power light was always on on both amps so no reverse wiring there. They never went into protect. Voltage sitting at 13.5v Gain half way, subsonic all the way down, lpf at 110hz. Preout voltage 4v, preout maxed out on head unit, Sub output is turned on, bass is on +3 boosted at 80hz. I was on the phone with AW and everything was verified that everything was hooked up 100%. Even the resistance on the terminals read 1.4ohms so everything was perfect. Turned on the stereo, had to crank it very loud just to get an "ok" sound out of the setup. What did it sound like? sounded like the subs were out of phase... But that couldnt be because they are wired in series, then parallel so out of phase is impossible. We checked the rcas, everything had a perfect connection. We left this song playing for about 15 seconds.... All of a sudden, the slave amp just completely started smokin.... BAD. The entire underside of the amp, all vents on the bottom and both ends of the amp were venting smoke. Immediately turned the car off and disconnected the remote wires. The master amp is fine but both are being shipped back... So, what do u guys think may have happened? IT is a signal issue but how could a signal issue cause that kind of damage?

alright i'm back! Here are results- 2 AQ HDC312s wired at 1.4 ohm off of a single AQ2200D. Max frequency - 34hz. Measured at driver's headrest. Everything sealed and rolled up - 131.64 Window rolled down - 137.47 Output - 46.9V 8.7A Impedance Rise - 5.39 ohms Watts - 408w @34hz. Remember, this is measured at the headrest, not the kick or the dash. I still havent measured at my peak Fs which varies between 47-49hz. However at low volume, 34hz was louder, which is weird. This is not the Tlab mic, but something a little stricter. If someone can meet me who has a Tlab mic in Louisville, KY, the score will be higher. Oh, i did not feed it into clipping either. This is underclipped so power output would be a lot higher as well as spl. This is purely safe output. Amp is rated to do 740w clean power @4ohms and at 14.4v I did 408w at 5.39 ohms at 13.2v Sounds on par to me. When i get my other amp in, i'll measure impedance rise over the entire playable frequency range so i can see how much power this thing really is pullin because as of right now, it's not pullin hardly anything.

Ok guys, here i go- I'm sick right now so being bored just sittin around. I was playin the Wii but started to get a headache after grenades starting killin me, hehe. Anyways, as u all may know, one of the 2 amps is not going to be in the install for a short while so i am curious to see what i am doing spl-wise in this pure daily driver right now. I have 1 AQ2200D, stock alt, 3 Powermaster batts and 2 AQ HDC312s. Both subs are wired down to 1.4 ohms to a single 2,200w amp. amp is rated to do 2200w at a real 1 ohm load. This is what i am going to do- I don't feel like spending eternity out there getting every little detail out of this install as this will not be permanent anyway. I'm going to find a few frequencies that play the loudest and measure the spl AT THE HEADREST with LEGAL and OUTLAW measurements. After i get the loudest note, i am not going to recharge the batts or let the sub coil at all. I'm gonna go back there and measure the wattage output and impedance rise on this single note then i'll be done. IT's hella loud on the inside but oh so peaceful on the outside. Legally speaking, that's how it should be so you can enjoy your music anytime of the day. I'm goin out there now.