shizzzon

Hey johnecon, u own a sawstop? I "saw" one of those a couple yrs ago that prevents itself from cutting yourself while cutting, or any foreign object for that matter... That saw is hella expensive, if u own it, how u like it compared to "ordinary" table saws? I own a table saw but is hard to get too a lot of times with all the other tools in both of the garages. For a cheap alternative, i just measure and mark point A and B, draw the line, then clamp a straight edge few inches away from the line and let the skill saw make the perfect cut. Comes out just like a table saw did.

Funky Pups are the car audio world's humor of the decade. Weird name for a sub and are nothing special. They "might" handle 200w, they look like older style home audio subs in a cabinet really. Far from anything special.

Don't forget you can strap 2 amps together to get a stable 2 ohm output. That option is not only cheaper usually but also can obtain more power than a 2500w amp as well. 2 AQ1200ds strapped together is just over 2,900w and just under $500 shipped.

it depends in what vehicle it was in too. the amp is hella expensive because it outputs same power over various loads. But the subs are cheap prices for what they can do. He could have saved a lot of money and went with another amp but besides that, i bet i can get type-rs loud. they are just cheap priced. Me, personally, i wouldnt run them because they can't handle large loads of power but that's the only reason.

Jesus!, there are so many build logs now, i almost had to go to page 2 just to reply to mine, lol Well, i should know why the other amp went up in smoke tomorrow so i'll post here when i know somethin. Also, i just got done installin the image dynamics CX62s in the rear. I haven't done extensive tuning yet because i am missing my other bass amp but for the time being, i got them bandpassed between 80-400hz. I was playin several songs and i still couldn't even tell they were back there. The intended purpose was just so they could pick up the midbass range mostly. I couldnt hear them at all. So i just played them by them self and the midbass output was really crap to be honest. So.... it appears i MUST house them inside of an enclosure for them to be audibly responsive. So, i'm gonna do some foolin around in the middle of the week and see what i can come up with so i can actually use these babies.

I can't believe i am making this thread but there is something not right and evidently i have forgotten. I had this problem before but it was like 4yrs ago and i cant remember what i did. Ok here it goes- I have a sundown 100.4 I am playing a 600hz tone. I hooked up a speaker to chan 4 only to make sure it would output power, it does fine, i even played some music on it so i know the amp works fine. Now, i connect the probe from the oscope to the positive terminal of chan 4 and the ground clamp of the oscope to the negative of chan 4. When i connect just the positive, i get this crazy wave form. When i connect the ground clamp, ... nothing changes. If i connect the ground clamp to chassis ground, the wave form gets even more crazy. If i connect the probe and clamp to same positive wire, reading disappears obviously. I know the oscope works because i use it for my db meter and the wave form is fine on it. I have had this problem before and i cant remember what i did to the oscope but i had to wire it up some weird way to get it have a perfect wave form but i cant remember how that was... I have tried with and without a speaker connected to that terminal and it makes absolutely no difference on the wave form.

u take out the inline fuse and your battery will be the next thing to go and it wont be unnoticed either when it happens! You either have too small of a fuse, you're arcing due to a loose connection in the fuse holder, your power wire is tapping ground somewhere, u are clipping so much it's pulling insane amounts of current, your voltage is dropping so low the current is rising drastically. Look over all that until you find out why it keeps popping. Oh, and replace the fuse holder too since it's melted.

ok i'm an idiot... I got the sundown 100.4 tuned now. What happened was the volume needed to be turned WAY up on the head unit before it got a correct reading. Also, the display setting on the oscope needed some changin. After foolin with it for about 10 min, i finally got that perfect waveform to appear for me so everything is normal now.

ok, i just connected the o-scope up inside the house to an amp and it read out fine so i must have some noise issues in the car i'm assuming...

even if u could use sine sweeps, i don't like using them because for one, whatever your note really is, the sweep is only gonna hit it for a split second which won't give a full potential reading and second, with it playing all the other frequencies before it gets to the one it should play, it is heating the sub up causing increased resistance resulting in lower power output.

Nothing is gonna beat that Gorilla Pitz song but here are some others if u cant get that song- Bone Crusher - Back up Lil Wyte - Acid Three Six Mafia - Talk Ya Ass Off Three Six Mafia - Suck a Nigga Dick Part 2 Three Six Mafia - No I'm Not Dat Nigga Three Six Mafia - Who Run It Anybody Killa - Come Out to Play ClAAs - C_L_Double_A_S House of Krazees - Haunted House House of Krazees - Diary of a Madman Insane Clown Posse - Assassins Jamie Madrox (from Twiztid) - Pledge Allegiance Twiztid - Bagz (very close to same output as Gorilla Pitz song) Twiztid - Leave Me Alone Twiztid - Everybody Diez Twiztid - 4 Thoze of U

Steve doesn't jam on his constantly either.

Gorilla Pitz - Bring it Peaks are superior at 48, 49 and 50hz. VERY LOUD

then he will receive them

that's not really enough info. Turn your stereo back on and see if the power light on the amp comes on or if the protect light does. If neither come on, check the fuses on the amp itself if there are any. Also, check to make sure the power wire, remote wire and ground wire are all connected to the amp and the opposite ends are all properly connected too.

well, most of the lows in rap do not drop below 32hz so yea

i own a scion tc, this will be interesting.

well good, hehe, maybe he does have the electrical then.

it looks like someone using a forklift lowered it down next to that box by accident and smashed corner and quickly raised it back up to prevent the corner of the box from permanently being smashed. Maybe it's just the facilities in your guys area. I work for a warehouse and out of the 3 yrs so far, we've only had 1 package come in that was busted but it was kinda hard to prevent. It was a 6ft long box full of fluorescent bulbs with little packaging... Other than that, all the ups\fedex\dhl delivery trucks that come to drop stuff off, they handle everything perfectly fine. Nothing has ever been damaged. Hell, even when i got all my lights and batts for my car. I was actually up in the ups truck with the guy gettin the batts off and everything in there was situated very neatly and locked in place, not physically locked but wouldnt fall or get slanged around.

it varies. Dual 1s are between 0.6-0.9 Dual 2s i have seen be 1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 1.9 Dual 4s i have seen 2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6, 3.8, 3.9, 4.0, 4.2 On dual 1s, i have really only seen them be 0.6, 0.7 and 0.9 if ALL 4 coils, 2 per sub, are all reading in between 0.6-0.9 then you are ok. Series each sub separately then parallel the connections. You should then get 0.7-0.8 ohms. If you do, then you are all set!

it did all that in a scion tc? well that just put a smile on my face because when my other amp gets here, i have 2 12" AQ HDC3s off of 2 AQ2200ds tuned to peak at 34hz. It already has some pretty crazy lows off of just 1 AQ2200d at 2ohms, i'll post a vid of a hair trick. Just gotta give me 5 yrs, i gotta let my hair grow out,

can it be applied on curved glass? is it just like regular tint and can it be applied onto existing tint or does it need to be put on the glass?

DJ suggests NOT to be using box building software for their subs. Software is highly inaccurate for their product line. It shows that for the original HD3s that you needed a 9 cuft ported box for just 1 15, that was way wrong.

i suggest you purchase a setup that you would use in your next ride and install what will fit in your current ride. You will know if it's too much current draw in the car. Do a quick test at night- Start turnin the volume up while you are sitting there at idle. Once you start dimming, remember that level. Now start driving on a straight road for a while keeping ur rpms at least 2k the entire time. turn it to that volume that u maxed at idle then start turning it up again until you start dimming again. Now you know how much power you can pull at idle and while driving. Do not exceed those volume levels. If you do, don't do it all the time for 10-20 minutes at a time. IF you are super paranoid, every time u get out of the car, check the voltage on the batt. IF it's above 12.4, you're fine. If not, drive it around without bumpin for a while and recheck. If u can't never get it above 12.4, u might wanna buy that new car sooner, hehe

hehe, if u wont have the car much longer, then get what i posted and wire the sub in series until you get a new ride. Or if u go crazy, wire it to 1 ohm. IT's best to buy something that you will keep for a long time rather than just somethin to get u by then have to buy somethin else just because you changed vehicles.