shizzzon

hey bigjon, if u really interested in Powermaster, i know a place where u can get their batts fully warranted and drop shipped to your house from Powermaster with free shipping. That should cut down the cost. You can get D3100s for $311 and D5100s for $186. They only charge an $11 handling fee so if u order more than 1 batt, the rest of the batts only cost their sale price.

i dont know how thick your round ports are... i'm gonna assume they are 1\4" thick. Port displacement is 0.94 cubes which would definitely put you under the minimum requirement. Also, since you are using that program, look at your port velocity, you are using a lot of port area for what power yo u have. You can shrink the port size some to accommodate. Rule of thumb i go by is as long as the velocity is no more than 15% of the speed of sound, then you are ok.

Well, apparently ohm load doesnt matter since not all of those amps do their best power at the same load so lets see here- If u can get em cheaper then thats fine but this is average pricing here- Rockford - 4Kwrms - $1,400 Autotek - 4Kwrms - ... discontinued IA - 3,600w - ~$750 Since price doesnt concern you, get a Maxximus.. hehe no just playin Actually, try this- 4,500w @2ohm = $800 2 AQ2200Ds strapped @2ohms. Or, you might like this- AQ3500D - 3,500w @12.0Volts! @1ohm ~$700 Strappable = 7,000w @12v @2ohm = ~$1,400

1 300A alt with all those batts should let u run between 4k-5k amp fine.

The information i gave is not for competition.

There is this new phone that's about to come out called the Samsung Instinct that has a page full of features on it. The phone itself made me start thinking if this was the best phone feature-wise so i started to do some research... I was wrong. There are other phones out there that are better but i gotta have it on the Sprint \ Nextel network. I was looking at the Nokia N95, and while that phone is AWESOME, it doesnt work for my network. I would use ATT but for the price, i get everything i want that ATT offers for $45 less a month through Sprint since ATT overcharges their plans like crazy. So... i found these Pocket PCs. I am more into computers anyway and these babies just made me want one... until i called up Sprint and was asking them questions about them. This is what they had to say- All Pocket PCs that they are aware that have phone capabilities cannot be activated in the United States as no carrier supports their network technology?!?! She then came to tell me that if i can find a phone like this that uses CDMA technology that there is a GOOD chance that i can get it to work with Sprint but i must find one first... All these PPCs phones use GSM or WCDMA which is not CDMA compatible so if anyone here knows of any CDMA compatible smartphone\PPC phone that is tons better than the Instinct... or the Iphone, then please let me know, as long as it's under $1,000 i'm interested.

you're gonna have dual 300A alts? Well hell, let's say that they could only disperse 250A per alt, that's 500A worth of charging current. For music, you could run around 9-10,000w worth of rated power because after rise, you should be, on average, pullin around 500A of current. I'm goin back to 2 3500ds strapped! Dual 300A alts is perfect to keep these babies goin. I'd suggest for long term music sake to have 3 HC2400s rather than the 2000s if goin with Kinetik but other than at, wang that install!

have u actually used it before? Several reviews are stating it's inaccuracy when doing measurements. Yes, it does take a LONG time to do it with a dmm and ammeter, i have to dedicate an entire day to pen and paper, hehe.

yea, i try to tell people that but i dont know if they actually believe or understand what i'm saying. People may know about impedance rise but they think just because they bought a dual 2 ohm sub that wiring it in parallel is exactly 1ohm and when hooked up to an amp that is stable to 1ohm that the amp at some point will output it's rated power at 1ohm realistically... wrong, hehe. You're right about the dmm, besides making sure you get the right reading to ensure everything is wired right, that's all u need to know for now... Now, once i get my other amp back, what i like to do is when i do an install, i like to keep records of as much info about that install as i can so i have something to compare if i ever changed installs. So when i get my other amp back, i take impedance rise measurements at low volume and max unclipped volume throughout the entire playable frequency range and see what i am actually doing. I also do that for power draw as well so i can if it's pulling a ridiculous amount of current for a frequency that i can barely hear anyway.

AQ= audioque The 4,500w combo strapped is rated to pull at full tilt - 400A There is no info yet on the 3500d in terms of pull but if i had to guess, because it should do 3500 at 12v, you would probably be lookin at around 400A pull for 1 amp @12v or 350A from 1 amp at 14v. So, the 2200ds strapped would be your best unless you wanna do some quick burps, then power draw is irrelevant as long as your car is off.

i thought smaller boxes had higher impedance rise?

2 AQ2200ds strapped together is a LOT cheaper than that amp. You can get this package for way under $1,000. Or... you could wait for the 3500ds to be released. I've been told that they are rated to do 3,500w @12.0v at 1 ohm so strap them together to get 7,000w @2ohms and that package is right around $1,500.

u are wondering just as much as i am... This thread should still be active until it can be compared. I own the meter, this is the thread i started but nobody around here has a tlab.

Hehe, well, ironically, just a few minutes later, the results came in... All along as we suspected, the input signal was "wild" i guess i could put it. No one will know exactly what caused the signal to go wacko but when everything was first installed, no audible signal was present at a pretty substantial volume level. After running it like that for a while, one of the amps eventually just gave out due to a hellacious dirty signal. The problem has been corrected since then and the amp will be here sometime next week. I will do some precautious monitoring when i go to daisy chain them back up to ensure my other daisy chainn signal cables aren't part of the problem either before i finalize the install process this time. Don't want this to happen again obviously. So, while there is time, i MUST get my front stage replaced ASAP before the amp gets here or i won't be able to hear anything but bass, hehe.

my own Pink Floyd Another Brick in the Wall 72hr project. all 3 versions and goodbye cruel world all joined together, slowed and added all new bass lines for a whopping track of just over 15min long and the loudest track i have ever played. All bass lines are 0db created and at frequencies that make you wonder if your sub is still gonna be alive when it's done playing, hehe. There are about 3 areas in this song where the bass drops down to i believe 10hz so if u can pick that up, you'd love this even more. Bass lines focused in the high 20s, primarily in the 30s and Hard impact in the 40s. It is a long track so as long as you got your equipment setup properly, you would have no problem hearin it.

Back on this topic. They have received the amp so it's out of my hands now. As of 6-12-08, they have started inspecting it so i won't have the amp by this week obviously, cross my fingers for next week, maybe? I'll post what the result of failure is too when i am notified about it.

he isn't reading this yet but better get bigjon on there. He's one person that comes to mind with sundown.... oh and Lord Braccus, hehe that SPL-Demon, lol

Whoa, nice site but i agree, i run 1600x1200, soon to be 1920x1200 and well, there's nothing left to say. I already have to use large text size in web browser, hehe.

a quick answer to it though is tuning low. lower frequencies travel further. So, hehe, if u got money to experiment with, build a ported box tuned to 5hz and let us know how far that travels!

Watch out, the Neosporin is deadly! Oh, come closer, her other shoulder is cold.... come, come closer. Man i love this movie.

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i know, i have all this on my car

after you get your alarm, get full or near full bulletproof glass to prevent immediate break-ins. make sure you have tilt, internal proximity, extra battery backup siren(s) on the outside, internal Peizo sirens on the inside and exterior sirens also inside of the vehicle. Make sure your alarm pages you and if absolutely necessary, get GPS tracking but that may be unnecessary as long as you have a good immobilizer.

i dont own a Fi product at all but what frequencies did you test the sub at? I believe, if memory is right, is to tune between 30-37hz. Did you ever try all the way down to 30hz?

I own AQ HDC3s 12s to be exact and 15s but not in this install. Contact the member "phi" here and ask him what he thought of the demo i game him off of just 1 amp wired at a potential 1,300w load being delivered to 2 HDC312s. The Fs of these subs are set at around 40hz. They are not no where near completely broken in yet, HEAVILY underpowered right now and is devastating the lows like crazy. The funny thing is there is about to be 4,500w being delivered to them. If you are worried about losing some low end, HDC3 subs are mind blowing in the low end. Also, i forgot to add, I demoed this install for "phi" when the suspension is still VERY stiff. The low end is just insane. When these subs are completely loosened up, the Fs will drop to around 32hz which is even better for your low end craving.