shizzzon

what kind of power were u running and for how long? Whenever i get this messed straightened out, i'm running an aq2200d per 12

Well, i'm gonna ask them all of these questions rather than assume the worst will happen after they diagnose the problem(s). Now, when i get these back, if something gets damaged again, then it's clearly a wiring issue because they are going to test them strapped after they fix the slave amp again.

it took 6 seconds of power on time, no noises. I'm not here to guess what happened because they will find out within a week or so. It's just odd that the master amp always works and the slave always fails. The master amp had no load either but it never has a problem. That's why they are going to inspect the master amp to determine if it's causing the slave to malfunction. 95honda - thanks for info. Now i understand.

that's what they are working on... they were strapped, not allowing a signal to pass. I had it severely cranked and it was barely passing a signal when the slave amp went out... Couple days later, the signaling issue was fixed, hooked everything back up and the Master amp has worked fine ever since... Weeks later, the slave amp came in(this is what this discussion is about). I wanted to strap them back up but with no load because i've always o-scoped amps before with no load without problem. Within 6 seconds, the slave amp went up again... Now tell me why hasn't the Master amp went out the first or the second time? The slave amp has been tested by itself after repair and is in perfect working condition. This time, they want me to send both amps back to see if the Master amp's output has been damaged causing the slave to burn out. I agree... if it has speaker short protection, it better not have burned up because of a no load scenario because that makes no sense. The volume was on 5.... 5 when the rest of the equipment is setup for volume 27. They think something in the install is messed up but i 100% disagree. IF something was, the master amp would be effected somehow. The only difference the slave have vs the master is it's power and ground connection. I know exactly where they go and nothing is wrong with them. The first time the amp was connected, it used those cables of course with no problem. Everything else, remote line, speaker lines... those are shared with the Master amp. And the daisy chained rca jacks have been tested to work fine so it's not that either. Can someone tell me this- I do not feel like it's fair if the amp got damaged this time because there was no load and it clearly stated it protects from speaker shorts... If that is what caused it, what would you guys say because i'm just going by what the manual says. IF it says it's protected from it, then i don't understand how it could be my fault? You guys say that you've never heard of this before. I have nothing really to base my feeling or point on the subject... if this is why it happened other than it states in the manual it's protected from it.

i wasnt specific with you guys. The oscope wasnt even connected yet. The car was turned on and i immediately started walking to the rear to grab the oscope to connect it to the terminals when the amp then started to smoke. It had no load on it and was only on for about 6 full seconds before smoke. I've been told it was because it had no load but also lower powered class d amps may not get damaged like higher powered amps would with no load... I do not know why but i also do not know why if that's what caused the smoke to get damaged via no load because i have been discussing this with others and can't figure out why the protection circuit doesnt kick on if it really can't handle a no load scenario. It specifically states protects against speaker shorts... That would indicate a 0 ohm load to me unless there is another type of short that i am unaware of. I'm really afraid now if that's what caused it to go up in smoke because what if there ever is a speaker short, there's a possibility that it will fry the amp. Well, the conclusion to the problem will be found by the end of next week.

ok thanks guys. yea it was in car, not a bench tester. The amp was on for 6 seconds then it went out and noticed smoke.

Well, i replaced my factory front stage with ID CXS65CS's ran off of a sundown 100.4 on the front 2 channels and i would have that it would have gotten a little louder but it didnt get any louder.... The sound just got a lot cleaner. No audible distortion, which of course is good, just not what i expected. I have a feeling that i am going to need to do some heavy ass modifying soon but i'll get to that later. MY other amp came in today. I'm about to go out there and install it and hopefully don't mess this up this time.

i'd be glad to test any amp and i'd do it in car, not on a bench either so better real world stats if anyone has an amp around the Louisville area....

It's sad that i can't prove it yet because i am still waiting on my other amp plus i have to purchase a new video camera too but if the 18 doesn't get low, then AQ would have never even thought about producing it! I own 2 of the HDC3 12s and as of right now both 12s are only wired to 1 AQ2200d @2ohms with a 1300w rating. Can they get low? hehe, that's an understatement. My box is tuned to peak at 34hz and i have the subsonic set at 28hz for the time being until the other AQ2200d comes in and i can strap them together. The specs on the site were taken as FRESH, not broken in. When they are broken in , they will drop approx 8hz on the Fs spec. The funny thing is, i started playin em on this one amp at 1300w and they handle the lows perfectly. They want you to tune high because they have been specifically designed to excel in the lows and the higher notes (40-60hz) quite nicely. Tuning as high as 38hz can still get you decent lows down to 30hz. If you are a lowend fiend, then tuning to 35hz will allow it to drop down to the mid to high 20s with ease. They have a very, very, very stiff spider and a 3" mechanical peak to peak excursion rating. I am going to be running an AQ2200d on each of mine. for a 1500w for 1 18, it will get loud for sure but you will not get it to it's max potential unless you keep the amp in a moderate clipping area which isn't recommended really. For the amp you have, i vote whichever is cheaper but if price is no object, i think the BL will reach it's max potential which should get you louder. Now, if u had 2k-3krms non clipped power, i vote HDC3 all day. The sound of the sub is install dependent as well. I let a local member on this forum, phi, demo my setup with only 1300w in it right now and we both are amazed at the transient response of the setup. Although, it has a lot to do with the sound deadening, the box design i built and position\tuning but it is not mudding sounding at all and drops low to an unexpected level. The funny thing is, i only have my 12s in 2cuft each after displacement, common chamber. I was afraid i may not have enough space but apparently i was wrong which is good. I also own their previous HD3 line, i have 2 of those 15s and they got insanely loud. Off of a metered power output of 667w got me a 144.3db on an AC mic @31hz in a crown vic with a walled trunk. That was with 1 15! Pretty damn good for resistive air flow and @31hz. Their subs are no joke, heavy duty ass subwoofers. I weighed everything i ordered for my setup and each of their 12s weigh in at 46.5 lbs! Pretty heavy for a VERY underrated 1kwrms rated driver.

make sure to ask them what is the maximum volume you can turn it up to before it starts clipping. Once you know that, of course don't go past it but also do not adjust any other enhancement devices either as that will cause clipping sooner.

that and the volume as well. I also own an Alpine unit with 4v preouts but i do not have an EQ and i don't output over 4v either. I set up the sundown 100.4 off of my install with the gain just under half before it started clipping at volume 27. Bass is at 0, treble is at 0. Sub is at 15. So with you saying EQ is all the way up... thats horrible clipping and to top it off, your subsonic is set SO LOW that is what caused the lead to snap. You are lucky really. The very next thing was gonna be a thermal issue. I would really have someone else setup your equipment because just turning up the subsonic filter isn't gonna save the next sub you throw on there for long term use.

hehe, looks like before you put that MLA in there your score was dyslexic.

Do NOT put that fuse in between the alt and the stock batt!

to be honest, i think it's time to start considering purchasing all electric or at least 60mpg+ but only if you are gonna buy new. If you buy used, you're not out as much money.

I have 380lbs of added weight on my scion tc 4 cylinder. Some people told me I would drop my gas mileage... I told them, as long as I keep my rpms at the same level as I did before the added weight, which I do, I shouldn't notice a difference... And what do u know.... I haven't been measurin by numbers but I can still drive round trips to work for 2 full weeks before a fill up. I notice a little sluggish take off but I keep my rpms no higher than 3k and I get great mileage.

make sure all speaker wire connections to the sub are TIGHT. Make sure the power\ground\remote line from point A and B and secured tightly. Make sure you have the sub wired to an ohm load not lower than 0.7 make sure your voltage is not dipping super low.

i check and monitor my battery voltage every other day until i buy me a very nice remote volt meter sometime soon. My battery bank has been consistently reading 13.2v float so they are fine.

hold up, you guys are getting things confused. I did research from 3 different companies, Stinger, PAC Audio and Powermaster. Stinger suggested i'd run 4 isolators in my car. PAC Audio didn't know for sure so couldnt give me a definite answer. Powermaster clearly stated to me what i posted to bigjon on my last post. I run the stock batt up front and 3 powermaster in the back. You can run over 300A to solenoids, you wire them in parallel. I only have 2 200A solenoids right now. They are wired in parallel with each other so they can switch up to 400A of current. I went over this about a thousand times just to make sure that it will and every way i worded the question, it all came back as- if you got more than 200A to switch, gotta wire them in parallel or they will get damaged. I made a for sale thread a while back for the other 2 200A solenoids because.... i dont need them. They will always be for sale until sold. It is true that they do all drain at the same time when the car is on, but the alternator is also charging them all at the same time as well or is supplying power to the audio system, one or the other. i was told by Powermaster to only put solenoids between every battery in the back only if i were using the batts with the car off. Don't know why because i never asked, i don't play around with the car off so it wasn't my purpose. I do know that different batts technology and specs will fight with each other. Again, i dont know how long it takes for a full or near full discharge to happen but that's why it's necessary.

i'm not tryin to dog ya but a VERY respectable person at Powermaster told me to always isolate the front from the rear with either isolators or solenoids as long as they were isolated. Of course he chose solenoids since they have no detectable voltage drop. IF all batts were installed at same time AND are of the same brand and line, then yes, it may not be necessary but different brand, different technology, needs to be isolated because they slowly start to drain each other. How slowly? I don't know but they will eventually kill each other off but the time it takes is unknown.

you are going to need more room than 26x18x16 unless you just go sealed.

used with damage, lol There's no point in owning a w205 if u go with GPS other than the Blackbird.

i was gonna say the iva-w205 with blackbird II but the retail on that is about $1750. That's what i've got and some others here as well. The best comes with a price. No money, no best...

Tell me what all batteries you have in your car and which one is the starting battery.

actually i was referring to another company but hey, now theres 2.

thats the only way they are isolated? Then that may be why.. I'm not the expert in batts but am told to always keep the front and rear isolated with solenoids, especially when using different technology or branded batts. Circuit breakers are not an isolation, they are a less tolerant fuse basically. Power runs through it all the time just like a fuse. So when the vehicle is off, it's the same as if it was on, all batts are joined together.