shizzzon

to do circle cut outs, you need a circle jig. go to www.partsexpress.com they have some.

impedance rise shouldnt be the same at different power levels. At a lower level, the rise should be greater.

no dont measure peak. The peak values will not be taken at the exact same time! When resistance rises, the voltage will too. When resistance is lower, the amps go up. What you need to do is hook it back up, do not hold peak or get their values. Start your burp and wait until both meters level out. What i mean by that is wait until the numbers stop changing rapidly and start staying consistent. At this point, visually record both the volts and amps and write em down.

Hey, can you PLEASE force this statement into everyone's head who thinks otherwise. I got tired of tryin to explain the way extra batts work in a vehicle and what all u need for a long term durable setup... Maybe you can be the next teacher for this topic for a while, hehe

As for what i believe, i don't think the end is that soon at all. What i do believe if any according to predictions and some factual evidence from researchers rather than prophecies is that something is gonna happen in between 2011-2013. Something different that doesn't happen normally. It could be anything really, it could be a natural disaster, nothing that would kill us all but somethin along those lines or just something that doesnt effect us at all might happen. IT's just interesting that this timeline has more things happening from all different points of view than just some predictions.

Only thing he knows about them, is how to make them go *poof*. He's blown two of them. Haha, i laughed when i read that. Yea guys, it's not really time to ask me anything about these amps yet since they've been in and out of my hands for about a month so i don't know a lot about them. This is the only thing i can tell you if anybody wants anything from my own experience- The AQ2200D is rated to do 700w @4ohm 14.4v I was able to get it to do 408w @5.39 ohms 13.2v I am assuming that's pretty much right on target. When i do finally get these amps back which is next week, Yea!!!, i am only going to test the amps strapped. I am tired of waiting for these amps so the tests are going to be compared to a strapped pair of SAZ-1500ds since that's what this thread is debatin. I'll make a whole other topic about this so people can find it easier.

me personally wouldnt buy a mechanical hard drive that either is refurbished or doesn't come with a warranty of less than 2yrs. Most of my drives die between 10-24months because i use the hell out of em so i can get em replaced for free. Mechanical devices will fail and i've been through enough failed drives to not want to look at another pc again... so i have 9 drives right now. Some are still IDE so when they die it's all SATAII until SSD comes down in price.

it will bottleneck a system if it can't be recharged fast enough

This came from another site- If one has to pick a year for extinction, the most likely year is 2126. At this time a comet (named the "Swift-Turtle"), which is the same weight (a trillion tons) as the asteroid that caused the mass extinction 65 million years ago, will pass the Earth's orbit at a point at which (if present calculations are right) the earth will be only two weeks distant. If the present calculations are wrong or if causal factors slightly affect the Swift-Turtle, the comet could crash into the earth, causing the 6th mass extinction. So, apparently, i have gotten that comet mixed up with something else that is 3x larger than jupiter. I cant remember and dont feel like readin all that info again, hehe, but somewhere in that site someone predicted something coming at us but not hitting us as to speak. I cant even remember when the prediction was made. It's been several yrs ago since i got really involved with that site then someone i know brought it up recently and i dug it up and it is somewhat refreshing my memory. Something interesting that sparks my interest that i tell people is all of this stuff happens weather-wise or space-wise but... what happens here on earth when all this is about to take place? Again, if all is true, it's quite interesting that the end of the 1st presidential term is right in that timeframe (dec 21 2012). Is the next president elected to blame for somethings that may be catastrophic that is going to happen on this planet that may not be mentioned in doing research? Can things be slowed down but rather dismissed? Quite interesting.

MikeS - that's when a cap can make a difference! I strongly believe that a cap can not be a battery replacement unless the cap is so ungodly large that it takes forever to discharge. You should only use a cap if your electrical system is in top notch shape. At that time, using a cap will give you that extra bit of power for fast responsive bass notes that you wont get from an alt or battery. Competitions - caps can be a major plus as they can discharge so fast. If you want the most out of your system, caps can help but only if your electrical system is ready and audibly, i dont even know if it's worth it.

so u say the power wire touched the ground wire? Do you have a fuse on the power wire? Do you have fuses on the amp itself? Now the stereo won't come on? Did the remote wire interfere with this spark because it's not stated if it did. Pull the stereo out and check all of it's fuses, internal, power and ignition.

well, he's tried the problem amp on a power supply and same thing happened. And i also believe he said he tried another 3000d in his car and same thing happened... I'd be interested in hearing about taking one of these amps, hookin it up to a power supply, then to his car, then back to the power supply. Wondering if something in his car is damaging the amps.

if u cant never get it to work off of your head unit, you can always use the ignition wire as your turn on lead for the amp. Only thing about that is if the stereo wasnt on, the amp would be just sittin there. They dont draw much at idle. Most amps at idle are around 1-2A draw.

i generated a 50hz tone. i input that tone into Audacity, it says peak is 50hz, so that's normal. I own a Creative Audigy Platinum Sound Card. I then Opened the Creative Recorder. I set the recording level to be what looks like 75% which shows it will clip if i leave it there. It's set to record "What U Hear". Update- I just redid the test and now the recorded track now reads 50hz peaking... odd. I dont know... maybe i generated a 39hz clip and thought i was usin 50... who knows. Well, nvm now, hehe

I was wondering if anyone would know why this happened- I was foolin around with Audacity the other day and generated a 50hz tone. I then took an audio recording program and for fun was wondering if recording a playing test tone, if the recording would be clipped or not. Well, the recording was heavily clipped.... but also recorded something different. My course was a non clipped (0db) 50hz tone. The recorded sample was a clipped 39hz tone.... how?

that's not enough for that amp... but if his alt is strong enough to run the majority of that amp, then it isn't that much of a worry.

I said that statement. Reason why i stated it is simply because if that has partially damaged the amp, then you can see why the protect light may be malfunctioned. I'm not stating that's what happened but until the amp gets tested, we can make speculations until the truth is found.

When you modify bass tracks that are sold in stores to peak and work specifically for your install so when demo-ing, every track is designed just for your ride. When you carry with you Db Meter, o-scope and DMMs.... just in case you need to diagnose somethin on the move.

you dont need to know really. Go to Newegg, you can find some decent brands rated in the 300-400w range that should definitely be enough to get that thing goin. They only range in the $40 range for aftermarket PSUs. The original PSU is 180w by the way. I'd personally get a larger output one since it will put less stress on the PSU itself AND give you the option to upgrade in the future. If you tried installing extra things in there, that's one way to kill the PSU months down the road. The OEM replacement is $35 + shipping so gettin one twice the rating for bout the exact same price is definitely worth it. Your required PSU needs to be Micro-ATX and MAKE SURE that the new PSU you plan on buying looks identical in shape and form as the damaged one does on the back(part you plug the power cord in at.) Pretty much, as long as it's Micro-ATX and the power cord is on same side as the old one, it will fit perfectly.

i'd been told that you aren't suppose to turn on a class d amp with no load present, on high output class d amps. They will see 0 ohms and can damage them. This wasn't told to me from or reference to Sundown but just class d amps in general.

Not only does it sound like the Alt, but an alt just don't die because it wants to, find out why it died! Was it trying to charge dead or near dead batts previously? Did you give someone a jump the other day with your vehicle on?!?!?!

i am really interested in this thread because i have 2 12s in a tC and i also peak at 34hz... I have 2 2200w amps but they are in for repair right now. I have yet to meter them via termlab but when they get back, i'd like to see how a pair with your score.

From what i understand, this is prolonged use of overcharging. up to an hour i'm sure won't cause anything significant to happen but if you went on a road trip.... i dont think that's a good idea.

i have 2 12s, not sundowns, in their lowest recommended enclosure size tuned to 34hz and it just dominates the low end. I was shocked at how much low end was there. They see a total of 4.0 cubes NET when they should see 5.0 So you might be surprised if set on 15s. However, larger airspace more equal higher efficiency so the 12s may out do the 15s.

power rating at ANY given resistance if both amps are of same efficiency will pull the SAME current. The ohm load has NOTHING to do with how much it will pull from your electrical system. The lower ohm load you go, typically the less efficient but that depends on the efficiency of the amps as well. Usually, efficiency ratings.. if even given are only at 4 ohms. The lower your load, the lower the efficiency, but in your case, for different amps, you need the efficiency ratings at these specific ohm loads to answer the question precisely.