shizzzon

my 250 for my Scion tC is around $650.

HDC3 Copper coil are meant to be powered with an amp approx 2500w or less. HDC3 Aluminum coil are meant meant to be powered with an amp at least 2500w or more. Aluminum coil is not that musical, i cannot comment on the quality of Aluminum since i have never owned one before. I do know that the HDC3s take 6kw burps from what i've been told. That may be the only high powered test out there though too. They might be able to take more, who knows.

if u fade and\or balance and it goes to the wrong speakers, then you have your rcas plugged into the wrong channels. Unplug ALL of your rcas except for one, just pick one and plug it up to channel 1. Now set your stereo to fade forward and left all the way. If no sound comes up, unplug that 1 rca and plug another rca into chan 1 until u find the right one. Then fade forward and to the right and try the next rca for chan 2 and so on until u get all the rcas hooked up properly.

AQ1200D - 1470w @ 1ohm $249 shipped i believe is the price. Just remember, when dealing with class d amps, they will get damaged if sent into low voltage. AQ amps are capable of working all the way down to 8.5v from what i've been told which is insane. Make sure your electrical system is ready for an amp that can output it's rated power and you shouldnt have a problem. A good way to know is at night, if your lights are dimming to constant bass notes AND you are in motion driving while this is happening, you need to turn it down because your electrical system isn't strong enough.

rated hot as in AFTER heat loss... I can say i have an alt that can do 300A but i may be referring to it's cold rating. If the alt is 83% efficient, then it's HOT rating is 250A, 50A is lost due to heat. HOT rating is what you will actually get in the real world.

I stand corrected for the time being. The information i have wrote down is NOT for the same frequency at varying power levels so i'll remain dormant on this topic until my amps come back in working order for me to test myself.

i know about that company as they are only 1 of 2 that can make an alt for my car. They STILL output low at idle, but that depends on what your idle is. If you idle below 750, then your idle output is only gonna be around 50A but if u get it up in the mid 800s, then their 250A alts start outputting in that low rpm range just over 100A. They are nice, and rated hot by the way.

Awesome!, that deal last another 10yrs, i might have time to save up!!!

it's not about any amp, it's just general knowledge about any amp that outputs different power at different ohm loads which is almost every amp out there. This amp i just recently tested that is rated to do 1300w @2ohms, on a dmm, it would be suggested to set it at 36v for 2 ohms but when the o-scope seen it and was set before clipping, it produced 46.9v but was no where near 1700w of course. I'm just showing that if you used the method of - 1300w@2ohm, set it at 36v because 36x36 = 1296... it's not accurate. I got 46.9v because the actual rise read 5.39 ohms, not 2 ohms. From what you say, i'm sure you know this so i dont understand why you would suggest someone to use the DMM method after reading this? EDIT - i just reread your edit too, hehe, which shows what i am saying. My point is just a dmm won't give the user full output potential. I look down upon that because i have read a number of threads where people buy these amps such as Sundown or any other internet based company in place of a local shop's brand and the output is either no better or worse because they are not getting their full potential out of their setup and so many people who reply with only knowledge of the DMM starts naming off ideas that are so far fetched from the problem that that companies product gets looked downed upon as either being defective or makes the user feel like he\she has attained absolutely no knowledge from doing research online. I'll stand by this and say if you use the dmm method as stated above in one of these posts or in this tutorial that was referenced earlier. IF you are unsatisfied with the output, this is clearly an indication but do NOT just turn it up more and more because it may be underpowered. Someone just called me so i lost what else i was about to say...

you cant properly set an amp via dmm to it's full potential and this is why- Let's make an easy example- Let's say you have an amp that can do 1,250w @2ohms. That's 50v and 25A output = 1250 You wire your sub to 2ohms nominal. You whip out the dmm and set it for 50v. Who's to say what the actual impedance currently is at the given note you are using? IF you had an ammeter, you would see. The impedance rise may be at 5ohm! If that's the case, then that 50v is only going to be ouputting 10A which is 500w but again, it's at 5 ohms after rise. Since rise exists, DMMs won't give you full potential output from an amp. Now, amps that output the same power over varying ohm loads is different. As long as rise stays in the range that it is stated for, you can set those amps up with a dmm as, from what i am told, all register ~8ohms regardless of actual rise value. Don't ask me why but that's what i've been told about those types of amps.

if u cant find a shop or someone to do it for ya, buy an HPS10 velleman oscope and we'll help ya set it up.

Well, instead of posting all this in the build log, i'll just post it here because i have a question anyways. I have\had 2 of these amps strapped together. When i first strapped them up, after several minutes, the slave went up in smoke. It was concluded that the input stage on the amp got damaged. There was no audio coming through either amp when i first tried using these. I tried using just the master. No signal at the time until i unplugged the rcas from the HU then plugged em back in... been working ever since, odd but no probs now. Got the slave amp back in and i did not have any subs hooked up to em when i had em strapped again but the slave amp went up in smoke in 4-6 seconds. The New diagnosis for this problem just came in It is concluded that the slave amp went up this time because a toroid shorted out. The manufacturer was not given an opinion of the problem meaning that the repair company did not make claims in facts as to how it happened but because the amp had been in repair before, they decided to blame it on the previous problem just for the sake of customer service. Now my question is, under what you now know what this amp has been through, what would you think might cause a toroid to short? Shipping damages? previous damages or somethin else?

What does most competitors using your sub or amp have ANYTHING to do with tuning your amp for daily? See where i am getting at... If they don't have an o-scope then they don't have good service... That's ridiculous if that's true. You can't set an amp's gains with hopes and dreams. State what state you are from and it's likely that someone on here may live close enough to you with the right equipment to set it up for you.

The way it sounds, you should get some money together and take your car to an audio shop and set it up with an o-scope. Ask if they setup amps with one. If they don't then they can't help you. You are guessing where settings should be set at and that will most likely damage the ICON and any other sub that gets thrown on that amp.

Of course he is, he's a great person to deal with. He's ALWAYS there when i call. I was thinkin about havin an AQ forum here but honestly, i don't know if that would work because he sounds pretty busy and may not be able to dedicate time like other companies have here.

They wouldnt make up an excuse, that would hurt the company's reputation BIG TIME. Wait til the end of this week guys. I'll be gettin the amps back wed or thurs. They were todl to test them strapped but i was never told that they specifically said that they did just were told to. They did test the master amp and found no faults, i hope that includes the strappable output section too. I seriously cant wait any longer because i gotta test these amps strapped and compare them to the SAX1500ds that i said i was gonna do! Oh, and i am suppose to be getting a Hifonics 1600w amp in soon from a member on here so i can test it as well and see how it does. IT's not to use, just to test.

thats what i figured... Well, gotta rewire em before that alt gets put in there... i hate it when people lie to me.

i'm not posting it over there on CA. I had originally posted the first problem, the input problem, but eventually came to be that i had a problem with the rcas that resulted in failure. I had enough idiotic replies just within that article from people who don't think. If i were to post this over there, they'd probably try to make me believe my car isn't capable of playing music... Somethin stupid. I was talkin with DB-r last night and got this questioned answered on a level i wasn't expecting, hehe. If i have future problems, i'll probably have him take a look at it and if he doesn't like what he sees for future durability... if this happens again, then i'll just switch amps.

Snoopdan used to own either the 15 or 18 and broke a 150 MECA in a jeep cherokee off of the Visonik 4kw amp. If you go to their site, i think they say the daily rating is only like 1250w but i cant remember 100% if u got the top model.

well forget what it looks like then, send me an application.

i was doin some graphin for ya and it seems at 1.1 cubes net- using a 3" circular port(not aero just regular circular port like pvc), tuned to 33hz, you would only be able to use up to about 850w of amplifier rated power before port noise would be a nuisance. I believe you use a rated power of 1000w correct? IF this is true, 3.25" diameter would the lowest i would recommend. 3.5" diameter would be nice as in recommended but would require about 18.25" of port depth displacement if the internal port is not flanged. If it is it's only gonna save like 0.5" length theoretically. a full 4.0" diameter would put you VERY nice but that's not completely necessary and may not be "doable" for your space. Increasing the internal volume but maintaining the same tuning frequency will cause turbulence to increase a lot so if you plan on increasing your box size, it best to use that extra potential space for a larger port.

I'd like to object, your Honor, I've done tests measuring power output from an amp from volume 1 up to where it begins to clip and each time the volume increases, the impedance rise decreases taking for granted that their is no power compression. The latest test i did, i got the notebook out in the garage somewhere, has all the specs wrote down from the last test i did. I had 1 sub wired in series to 7.2 ohms. Test amp was a home audio amp rated to do 100w@8ohms. At volume 1, the resistance was just over 20 ohms if i remember correctly but by the time it got to output around 110w, the resistance was low like around 10 ohms. When i have time, i'll come back on here and post evert single volt and amp reading i got at every consecutive volume increase interval so you can see exactly what i got.

I already made this announcement in person to friends, but if something else happens with these amps that is out of my control... i'm changing equipment. I have been driving 400lbs of paper weight for about a month and am already gonna miss the Street Warriors show tomorrow.... As long as they work this time it's all good. I got enough money to buy whatever so if i have to, i'll go crazy over some sundowns if i have to but this topic isn't about sundown so don't get carried away, Wanna hear somethin funny? I'm such a bass fiend that i have not been completely depressed over no bass since the car show is tomorrow, all kinds of vehicles that i drive with to and from work are jammin their setups everyday so i got some sort of bass with me, hehe, just nothing i can actually hear in terms of what's playin over there.... but i'll get mine soon enough.

Oh I build everything, nobody builds or repairs any of my pcs but me. Here is the purpose behind this build- I run 2 pcs 24/7 nonstop side by side and 1 laptop when those pcs are maxed out processing-wise. None of these pcs are suited for newer games. What I mean by that is I can't even play call of duty 3 at 30fps near the end, it drops to 7fps. I never wanted to supe it back up nor build just a gaming pc because I got a Wii but if I want a HTPC then I might as well make sure it can play games too or I might as well just buy a bluray palyer, know what I mean? Ok now to your qestions- 1- I build.everything myself. 2- as long as the cpu, case and psu fans are quieter than the HDDs and optical drive then I'm fine with it. 3- games? I don't or am not eager to play games on it BUT DO want to have the capability and upgradeability for a long time to come. This is why I was interested in mobos that support 2 or 4 video cards and up to quadcore chips. 4- TV I currently use a 51" 540p HDTV. I sit 8-10ft from it. I will be purchasing either a new 26" lcd for 450 or a new 28" for 540 for my current dual pc setup. Whichever one I choose are both 1080p so I can use it for HD experience. Once I ever replace the 51" I will most likely go with a 50-60" range 1080p or 1600p tv depending on when I buy.

oh i repair and build pcs but i just havent been in the newest realm fo technology lately because i don't need to until i started thinkin about this again. I have heard to playback HD video that i need a minimum of a dual core system... I don't know exactly why though? Is it because of what u say, one processor for video, the other for windows? Is HD that demanding? Quadcore chips arent expensive. I can get the quad 2.4 with 8mb of L2 retail for $208. If you have experience with multi core chips then you can help me understand them better, For one, why is it that HD playback required dual core minimum? 2 - with multi core, does the system itself choose what core to use to process information? IE - watching a movie, system tells it to use core A, running AutoCAD and rendering graphics would use core B, etc... does it go the most efficient way? 3 - when multiple cores are used, what controls what core processes what... the OS or the motherboard. 4 - the OS really doesn't matter since the cases from TT come with Medialab that is a new shell basically just for media. If i didn't like it, i can use others made for carputers. And, i WILL be using a TV, no monitor. I want this thing to be as real as expected. Nah, i customized that alienware box and it came out to be $2199, hehe, and i priced my design at being ~$1,500 with a LOT more than what they offered because i can get things a lot cheaper than what they charge. One thing that was interesting is that ASUS has some boards now that bootup in 5 seconds flat into a multimedia environment... but i don't know if it's some cheesy layout, i'm assuming it is but could be wrong. If it's better to boot directly up to windows, what type of BIOS or hardware would yield the quickest bootup times? Here is a list of things that i know that slows bootup- Ethernet - during Windows loading screen, it will look for a connected internet service if you have ethernet capabilities. What i do not know is if you disable on board LAN and use onboard WiFi if it still slows bootup, anyone? BIOS - set quick POST and disable search for any hardware that you either do not have or do not need verified during each bootup. What BIOS boots up hellafast or what boards do? Does RAIDing 2 HDDs together for faster performance speedup bootup time? Anything that will speed it up? Any Registry tweaks or *.ini files i can edit out contents or remove checks to speed up bootup?