shizzzon

I spent about $650 on SS and other deadening accessories and about $500 from Knu and Stinger... All of the equipment is excellent, perfect choices.

go to www.missinglinkaudio.com for information. Their booster is primarily only for GM or Ford or vehicles that use those type of alternators.

i dont own a sundown 1500d but if they use 2 + and - speaker terminals, then they are internally bridged together basically for the sake of easier wiring capabilities. So... if this is true, if u are trying to hookup just 1 dual 2 ohm sub to your amp, you would run each wire to each terminal... So on your sub, the + and - of one side would wire to the + and - on the amp and the + and - of the other side of the sub would run to other set of + and - to the amp. While you do not absolutely need to use all terminals on the amp, if you do not, the resistance must already be 1 ohm once connected to the amp. Otherwise, you run each coil to the amp which is 2 ohms per side, but internally bridged parallels it down to 1 ohm.

i installed mine in the back with my batteries. They said i could as long as i had a fuse up front near the battery. You have 2 big terminals and 2 small terminals. The cool thing about this is it doesnt matter which one you use for in\out or ignition\ground! So, this is what you do- Run main power line from front battery to BIG terminal. You then run another power ling, same AWG, from other BIG terminal to another fuse block then to all your batteries. This now leaves 2 small terminals left- Choose either one to be ignition turn on. Run your ignition turn on wire to one of the small terminals. This now leaves just one small terminal left. This is going to be your ground. Just run a ground wire from it to ground. The small terminals are small because they do not require very large wire. I used 10 awg for ignition and 12awg for ground. I'm sure that may be overkill but better safe than sorry.

is it an isolator or solenoid? I know solenoids come in 200A but i've only seen 240A isolators go up that high in rating.

I have an amp mounted in a way to where it is 100% in direct sunlight and there literally is no other place i can mount the amp due to space issues. It is about 2" away from the hatchback glass. The back hatch is layered in a sheet of tint and then another layer of blue tint for a graphical image then a clear coat sheet is layed over that. Is it ok, practical, doable, only way u may know of to take a sheet of heatwave or the Pro and stick it onto the tint to prevent the amp from getting excessively hot? I turned the car on today and the amp was in protect. I check everything, voltage is at 13.3v, impedance is right where it is suppose to be but i noticed the amp was in protect. When i touched the amp with my hand, the heatsink was extremely hot, not burning your hand instantly hot but like metal cooking in the sun hot. I'm assuming that is why it went into protect. while i had the hatch door open, all the heat inside was venting out as well. I turned the car off then back on and blasted the AC with all doors shut and the amp never went into protect again so no wires were moved or anything so it had to be a heat issue. Placing the Heat wave on the tinted glass is the only thing i can think of but is there anything bad about that? Will it be able to stick vertically like that and onto tint?

i'm not 100%, the 18 uses a totally separate basket, thats all i know. But, like i've told someone else before, they wouldnt have brought out the 18 if it didnt perform like the rest.

amazing, i use autocad too! Yep, call me today. We discussed this earlier that you are 6hrs behind me so call me sometime after 10:00 am today and i'll be here.

how is the alt being measured at outputting ~20v? Hook up DMM to starting battery terminals with vehicle off. Now reconnect the probes after starting the battery and see what u get at the battery's terminals. If you still get close to 20, or anything over 15.0v, stop driving the car until you get the charging system taken care of. IT may be a damaged regulator unless your alt is internally regulated.

hmm, now i think i'm regrettin on fessin up , lol No, but seriously, if i owned a truck with extended cab... i'd fill the SOB up, quick! I've already researched a little bit about settin up extended cab trucks up for stereo system purposes just in case i ever got a truck. And this research has been recent to.. What else am i suppose to do when i'm waitin on amps to work for the past month...

Haha!! I was waiting for someone to catch that, man, i've had that in my sig for a while now. The car can't possibly fit all that and be decent to drive, hehe. I am still waiting for my amps to come back from repair.... I was told they shipped out LAST FRIDAY!... when in fact, they are shipping out tomorrow.. a whole week off?!?! Somebody doesn't have it together over there, that's for sure. either that or someone isn't paying attention. Oh besides, the AQ3500ds won't be out til August, hehe.

u need a DMM for voltage and an Ammeter for current.

I am (hopefully) about to order an upgraded alt for my car soon. I have 2 200A solenoids in the car and I need to make sure they are wired correctly before i take a chance in the alternator burning them up. EVERY COMPANY i have talked to has told me to wire them the same way but i do not believe them as it doesn't sound right so i want your guys opinion. Here is a pic of them- The top option- this is the way the companies want me to wire them, main wire from batt coming in, running of relay one to input of relay 2 then out of it to battery bank... Wouldnt that just switch 200A into another relay to only support 200A of current??? Option 2, the bottom one is what i am thinking- Main wire from batt comes in to input of relay 1 and 2. Output from relay 1 and 2 are ran together then ran to battery bank.

from what i was told... knock on wood, it depends on how much alternator power you have. Since i will have 250, i needed 2 of them in parallel. It is the purpose of current transferring from front to rear. Since that should only happen from the alt... well u see.

u can get em for like ~$50 per 200A Solenoid. They also are called Relays too. Do NOT get them confused with the term isolator as that has a nasty voltage drop vs Solenoids.

they isolate the front battery from all the extra batts in the rear. You need this because over time, all the batts being tied together will try to all share the same charge level. If using different battery technologies, the batts will drain each other down til they die if not charged all the time. Now, when the car is started, all batts are tied together so the alt can keep them all charged. The isolators are to prevent premature failure of the front or rear battery bank.

i told them that i wanted to wire them in parallel because i had mroe than 200A of current being flown threw there soon. They all told me the same thing- When the wire from front batt comes in, just run it out of the first relay to the input of the second then out of that one to your aux batteries. So i ask again, just in, out, in, out? They said yea. Well, i know the answer now. I thought i was right to begin with, that's why i made this thread before somethin got melted soon, hehe

I've always thought about doin this so i don't have to keep replacing dvd players to hd players to blu ray players to whatever else comes out next. The capability of playing back movies on a pc that only needs the right ROM drive is cheaper than buying a whole new home unit. Plus the fact that the home theater pc can do a LOT more things than a home unit player can. I want some people's feedback on some features that they think would be cool or necessary to make it perfect for using it as intended. Thermaltake is pretty set on home theater cases. Gotta have a remote with a readable screen on front. Without that, it's a pain in the ass. So other words- it has to look just like a typical dvd player- readable lcd screen with controls on the front and remote. Thermaltake makes units like this so that's covered. It also has to accept All forms of video playback via disc which is easy as there are drives out there that can now for pcs. Next - there are motherboards out there that will let you playback music from a disc without even turning the pc on! I can't remember the feature but i know ASUS has it on some of their boards so i know i can find that technology. Motherboard-wise, is there any other feature required to get this thing workin perfect? I know for HD video, i will need dual core system so for longterm durability, i was thinkin about using a Quad-Core setup so i don't have to worry bout it slowin down on me. If this can playback HD video, it'd be nice to play PC games as well. So.. i was also thinkin about getting a motherboard that accepts quad-core and dual vid cards. that way the ability to run 1 card or 2 lower end cards can help keep the setup lasting longer preventing it from being labeled as "old" as quick. Thermaltake's cases come with Medialab so it's ready to do all the movies\music and whatever else there is. The system needs to be able to playback IPODs... Does anyone know of hardware\software that can instantly control an IPOD? I dont know how this would work on a home theater pc? Must have media card reader for access to songs from there as well. These chassis have front USB ports so other mp3 players can hook up to them as well. Quad-core pc would need a silenced cooling solution. I don't keep up with tech everyday but i do remember seein some of thermaltakes heat-piped heatsinks effective enough to be used without a fan. Do not know if they work with quadcore or not but if they dont, i'm sure i can find a quiet fan for the heatpipes. Anything else anyone can think of? Probably RAID 2 SATAIIs together for faster performance. TV Tuner card. Maybe if SSD drives ever come down, i'll use one of those for the main drive and all SATAIIs for AUX drives used for tv capturing.

free shipping is to the lower 48 states. They will come on here or you can email them so they can give you the price specifically.

i'll let someone else comment on bandpass designs. I have little experience with them and can tell you bandpass designs are terrible for sound quality. 2nd, if u have ran sealed before, going ported is a higher efficient box design so it will be louder. In my experience, building a ported box using the least recommended internal box volume yields better sq than the largest box recommended. I do not know why so i may be stating this just for a certain install i did... I just know when i have used large boxes for a single sub, the overall sound is very loose and muddy. This new install i did, i built the box smaller and it sounds incredible. I run 2 cubes per 12 when i should be running 2.5 cubes per 12. I am not lacking on the low end whatsoever... i have people to verify that as well I am tuned to peak at 34hz and can drop below 30hz easy. EDIT - I do know that the larger the box, the higher the group delay which is bad. This may be why my current install sounds better, "tighter" as you would refer to it.

that is referred to as 4th order bandpass 1 amp is better than 2 generally. If one of two goes down, you may have problems. If just the one goes down, nothing else can happen...

hehe, install that in your ride

hehe, I've spent about $7,000 so far on just my stereo install and security.

you're using 6000w? hehe, def get it The X1 probe maxes out at true rms at 80V, X10 true rms is 400V.

Well lets start from the beginning, let us know if you AT LEAST have the following tools- Tape Measure Straight Edge Pencil Jigsaw or Router Skilsaw or table saw Power Drill IF you got at least those, then the build will be easy since you got the right tools to get the job done. Saw horses or any other way of cutting MDF is also a must. If you have the minimum tools, then we can help you for sure.