shizzzon

Well, i was thinkin about that, being used for music and thats the thing. I won't really be using this for "loud session" musical entertainment. Whenever i'd listen to music before, it'd be at low levels. I understand that if i were to go ported that i would have to make sure to have a capable subsonic filter and tuning in the 20s or teens would cause a roll off above tuning which wouldnt be as effective for music but that's fine for me because i don't do a lot of music listening like i would compared to watching television with it. I have my car for music, i need something entertaining at home that i cant do in the car the way i can at home. So, with that sight in mind, you think building ported would then be beneficial, correct? I was doin some more lookin and this is what i'm eyeballin- http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index.php?ma...products_id=181 IT's the IXL-18 from Mach 5 Audio They recommend it to be suited for home theatre apps and say to run it either in 7 cubes sealed or 12.8 cubes ported tuned around 15hz. Now, i'm lookin for more than just inaudible output so i dont know if 15hz is too low but again, i've never done thie before so i dont know. Also, i found an amp i'm interested in. It'a a 1000w Dayton Monoblock. Reviews say it doesnt seem to do the full 1000w but def a good amp for about 400w of output. For a box size that large, i'm sure it's 1kw power rating will be limited quite a bit.

ok been doin some research here tell me what u think- Circuit City sells a 5.1 Onkyo that i can use for my existing satellites that i have. The only thing left is the powered subwoofer section and i want to build it myself. So, this is what i've been lookin at- Dayton Audio products. I was on PartsExpress looking for a ProSound 2 channel amp and they seem a little pricey so i figured i'd stay in between the 200-600wrms range. On PartsExpress, the amp that they sell, it appears that Crown seems to be a pretty decent choice but since all of these amps are not class d amps, their efficiency is pathetic. Am i still going to get good output for the money? I noticed one amp said it would pull just over 900w of power but only output about 330w... Onto the sub choices- The current setup i have is 2 8s with max amp output power of 170w. The Dayton's i'm looking at are 15s or 18s rated 100-300wrms. They have good sensitivity and response down to 20hz with Fs down in the low 20s as well so they should be a great choice for movies. Since i've never built a sub enclosure for home audio movie use, how low should i tune the box too? I figure below 30hz for movies but don't know how low. Am i still suppose to follow the 12-16sq in of port per cube rule even with low powered amps?

if it still smells after he scopes it, then either he didnt set it right or you changed settings on the head unit after he set it up. That amp you have isn't too powerful for that sub.

in terms of guessing- typically - 1.5 10s equal 1 12 2 - 2.5 10s equal 1 15 1.5 - 2 12s equal 1 15 So there, that's cone area equivalent.

That first sub was an MA Audio Hardkore basket, right? I don't know what the 10" basket is.

no that wont work. When people say that your resistance will fluctuate all the time, that means it will fluctuate with what frequency is being played AND because it's playing, it's receiving a signal. When nothing is being sent through the sub, it's Revc value is seen by a multimeter. To see it's live load, it must be playing something. At this time, you would need a multimeter and ammeter and that method was posted above on how to find that.

i do not know if i am following you or not but to measure the resistance, the sub(s) must have a signal going to them, the voltmeter must be either on the speaker terminals on amp or subs terminals and an ammeter must be strapped around only 1 of 2 wires, pick one, positive or negative. You gotta get both values on both meters at the same time and while the numbers are steady instead of moving all the time. The only easy way to do that is by playing a test tone.

good info

There should be a GIGANTIC sticky somewhere on this forum about what i'm about to say. IF your packages require a signature before they leave, open up the box(es) and inspect them before signing. It IS your right to do so. Of course it shouldnt affect the performance at all but damn, that is ridiculous. Guess might wanna start printing Fragile all over the boxes from now on.

oh no, impossible. Whatever the DCR value is, the REvc spec, the active impedance will NEVER EVER EVER be at or below that value. This is why people can run 1 ohm stable amps at 0.25 ohms.... because the resistance is so high. Now, they can't d that for music for certain frequencies may have very high rise which allows running very low loads possible because the amp is still seeing a load much higher then one expects. If you ever want to see this in person, get a DMM and an ammeter and burp a frequency for several seconds. Record the voltage and amperage output at the same time. Do not take peak values, take consistent output values and at the same time. Divide the amps INTO the volts to get active resistance.

you should keep the port area an 8:1 ratio and keep the port more vertical than horizontal. Someone on here a while back stated that but i do not know why. I am unaware of the effects. I am dumbfounded on that part of the topic.. i am completely stumped, i am... I'll quit typing.

well for 2 ohms, that should be enough. For 1 ohm, i'd invest in about 150-200aH. Remember, for 1 ohm, your alt isn't strong enough so it's possible to overwork your alt overtime from either trying to power it at 1 ohm or trying to charge these batts for long periods of time. That's why it's suggested that if u do not upgrade your alt but decide to run at 1ohm that for long term durability, do not bump this setup for long periods of time. LEt the alt charge the batts for about 10-20 min intervals every now and then. It would be very wise to install a remote volt meter so if your voltage ever briefly dips below 12.5v, in my opinion, turn it down for a little bit and let the alt keep the batts in the back in top notch shape.

Ok some more news- I dont think the amps shipped today but it's not like i'm pissed because they didn't. I got in touch with AQ a few minutes ago and they said that the last time they had them in for testing, they were strapped together being tested and 6hrs of constant output, they finally blew each other (hehe that sounds funny) Well, i already stated what the reason was to that but because AQ knows how frustrated i am with waiting so long, the repair center is going over these amps like a mite in a haystack to ensure there is absolutely nothing wrong with either of these amps and WILL be tested in every possible configuration method to ensure 100% working order before they leave this time. Just for the sake of safety, i am going to be running these independently to each sub and using the PAC Audio universal remote gain controller to adjust the gains when i need to attenuate the output, so for my purposes, they will still act strapped. I'll just level match the hell out of them and set the crossover settings perfect with the oscope and i'll be all set.

hmm, i'll give ya a rule of thumb- the 3000d- If ran @2ohms, you will require at least an 80aH batt in the back OR a high output alternator around 130A. You could go as low as 90A maybe but would definitely require that 80aH batt. I wouldnt recommend running a setup like that, longterm for years off an alt that small though. May burn it up. If ran @1ohm, you will require at least 150aH batt in the back OR a high output alternator around 200A. You could go down to maybe a 150A alt but would def need at least 150aH of batt back there. If running at 1 ohm, it's HIGHLY suggested to put some form of battery back there regardless if your alt is 300A. You need a little something something back there for starters for something that powerful.

as in enough power? it'd be enough to get them decently loud, yes. You'd have em wired to a 2ohm load but those subs can actually take one of those amps per sub. IF you are worried about the price of those amps, go here - www.db-r.com you can get ya a used 3000d for pretty good deal. Don't worry, that place is guaranteed through Sundown Audio so you won't get ripped.

I will bet $100 that those subs never see an even 2.0 ohms or lower at any frequency. That's just the way it is. I'm not new to impedance curves. And as stated before, I've seen dual 4 ohm coils rated LOWER than JBLs coils wired in parallel. Why? Because other companies are showing nominal resistance. A resistance guaranteed not to fall below this value. JBL has rated their coils practically at the rest value, i guess for more advanced users. You have compared apples to oranges i'm afraid. They clearly state the 12 uses 6.4 or 6.5 ohm coils. They could have rated these subs as dual 8 ohm. Everyone else would have i'm sure. Just to let you know in the future- a wired load of- 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9 works with a 1 ohm stable amp. 1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0 works with a 2 ohm stable amp. 2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6, 3.8, 3.9 works with a 4 ohm stable amp. I left out some loads because i havent never seen those loads before but am sure they would work also since they fall in between the low and high range readings.

the 3000d would be fine. RE SX's use i believe 1.2 ohm DCR coils so wired in series then all back in parallel would give you a 0.8 ohm load which is pretty perfect for a 1ohm stable amp. I vote 3000d.

well, i wouldnt suggest runnin 4 of those in a single 1500d, hehe, but the point is when people buy amps for their subs, they are trying to get the most for their money. The sundown is rated to do around 800w @2ohms. The kicker is rated to do that at 1500w and the Alpine @2ohms is 2kw. I'm not saying the Sundown is a waste of money, I am saying the sundown is a waste of money for THIS application in my opinion because he won't be getting full potential that he could get for the money he will spend. Those subs are rated to take burps up to 3kw, 700wrms, 1200wrms amplifier rated according to others. JBL states on their site that they give these subs a 100hr test at their rms rating, which is 700w to certify them as being that thermal rating. Now, if you go with sundown, unclipped power would be babying them. You could clip the hell out of them, that would get them movin and "might not" cause damage but i do not care for the sound of excessive clipping so it all reverts back to buying an amp that fits the application, not an amp that is of just good quality. Simply put, we should all buy Class A amps if we choose amps just by quality rather than by application but that is going overboard.

I don't need an amp just for the sub, I neeed an amp for all my satellites too. This is a pc surround sound setup. Bash makes the amp for this klipsch setup but I can't find the bash amp plate anywhere. So I figured some other companies may sell these plates to markets for anyone to buy. I've owned home receivers before but am unfamiliar on how I should shop for them for this purpose. I need a full 5.1 surround amp because I have a 5.1 sound card. I run 3 sets of cabled out of the card to an amp via rcas if I gotta go home audio receiver. I've seen some amps go for only 100 dollars at circuit city but I'm sure the power ratings are overrated. That's what I'm talkin about too. Do home audio reciever companies overrate their amps like some car audio companies do?

Ok guys, hehe, i wake up in the morning and notice people tryin to get my attention in the chat... but i'm ASLEEP! So, if u see me in there between 10pm EST - 5:50am EST, i am asleep. If you see me in there from 5:50am EST - 4:30pm EST on a weekday, i'm at work unless i work til 7 like i did yesterday. So, when it's 2:20am here, don't expect much lively help from me, haha

so that's my only choice then? an actual home audio receiver? I didn't wanna go that route since they have so many features, i figured a lot of my money was goin to 45 sets of rca jacks in the rear instead of performance.

I'm telling you you are wasting money. "the only reason i dont want to get a 2 ohm amp is because i am worried that i might get alot of protection mode problems cause the independance changes as the music plays." Impedance... And THAT'S THE WHOLE REASON i suggested a 2ohm amp because that's what you need. What you are about to do is like putting a single dual 4 ohm sub on a sundown. Those GTis share the SAME DCR value as some Dual 4 ohm subs. 1.6 ohms is plenty high. I've seen 2 ohm coils read as low as 1.2 ohms and still be fine on 2 ohm stable amps. There's nothing else to say, it's laid out for ya as simple as can be. It's your choice as to what you want.

www.amprepaircenter.com

no sub should smell or feel hot because it's hot outside. IT REALLY sounds like you are exceeding it's thermal limits because your JBL amp is probably clipping. As i stated before, you NEED to have your amp setup properly instead of visually guessing where to set the gain. IF you don't eventually get this amp set right, in the long run, you will start to have damaged speakers and end up buying new ones all the time. I know because i went through that numerous times until i finally bought the tools i needed to prevent that from happening ever again. Now, i've never damaged a single speaker because my equipment is set the way it's supposed to be. And no company will warrant burnt spiders or leads because that's considered neglect due to exceeding the thermal limits and that's exactly what's gonna happen if it keeps emitting that smell.

ah Ha! That's what i needed. So, wired in parallel, both of them would get you a 1.6 ohm load. That's perfectly fine to run off of a 2 ohm stable amp. I would be looking for a 1500w amp rated @2ohm. You'd get more bang for your buck. Here is a list of some amps that you can do your own research on that will benefit you - Alpine MRP-M2000 Kicker ZX1500.1 These amps may require you to do what bigjon said because these amps fit your application better so you'd get more power out of them than the sundown.