shizzzon

Thank God!! I have been waiting for someone to not only try out the 2.5s but to run excessive amount of power to them... well, AQs can take some pretty large amounts of power. Can't wait to see how you like this setup.

sorry guys, i know i changed the new time to Mondays at 7pm EST but bowling season starts back up in 1 month and they are lettin us bowl for free all night so i'll be there tonight instead. I bowl on tuesdays so it's still on for Mondays, just not this one. Oh by the Way - One of my 2 amps is here in Louisville already... I'll be pickin it up tomorrow... hopefully the other one will be here too.

You want to know what's safe for the woofer? Practically any size box is safe... what isn't safe is setting your subsonic filter wrong for a ported box or clipping your amp. There is no "safe" box. There are "optimal" boxes which gives best sq\spl output. Now, i don't know what size is best for the 18 but i do know that Fi generally wants people to tune to 32hz, that's for sure.

this is what u do- The power line that runs from your battery up front to your amp, there should be 2 fuse holders. One right after the battery and one right before the amp. Run 1/0 wire all the way from up front through that fuse holder to the back into the other fuse holder. Output 4awg wire from that fuse holder into your amp. The fuse holders right after the battery and right before the amp should be no more than 18" away. Also use about 53 1/0 grounds, lol use 4awg minimum grounds no longer than 3ft.

Diddly diddly do dah.. da da da duh da, hmm hmm, OH, i forgot i was in my build log! Well, i've already said the amps are on their way back to me so hopefully this will be THE final time i'm going to install these amps! In the meantime, i have some other things i have to do to prepare for the finished install- 1 - Sound Deaden the doors 2 - Re-seal the rear fill with expanding foam. 3 - Replace ALL speaker wire with fresh wires for the new install. CHECK I have new speaker wire... 40ft of it actually. I needed 8 runs, 2 subs, DVCs, so 8 runs of 5ft each. Went to the store and picked up 40ft of 10AWG cable for the speakers, that should help get the power out of these amps to the subs a little better. The amp only accepts "supposedly" 12awg wire but we'll see won't we Amp says it only accepts 1/0 power\ground but i got 2/0 in there so i'm sure i can get this 10awg in there too. I have a voltage drop as i have stated before, it's unknown how big it is since my alt voltage level to my float in the rear is only a 0.4v difference so it's hard to tell how bad it is. I'm gonna have some time soon to start tackin that issue and let you guys know what it causing it.

since you say it has corrosion in it, definitely buy a new fuse holder. You dont need a volt readout anyway... you're only gonna see it when you are back there and a DMM can tell u that as most of those meters on these blocks are wrong anyway.

ok, how much power and what speakers are you using for your front stage?

nice! well while you wait, how much room visually would you want to take up? You dont use the cab for any tools do ya or anything else? Can you afford to use the entire width and depth of the cab? Also, how far up you think u can go? To the headrest? All the way up like a wall? Maybe just a couple feet?

Critical Mass... But really, measure the height, width and depth that you would be willing to have a box take up and then we can really narrow your choices down.

i'd def up your ground to 4awg for future reference. Havent you looked to see why it's arcing? Disconnect the ground to your battery and go back there and see what's loose. The fuse size for that amp needs to be no higher than 90A.

Dude, you chose like the worse equipment ever, your install... Is AWESOME! Honestly, did you do the install yourself? That is one of, can't say the best because i dont know, but one of the best installs with Fi\Sundown equipment i have ever seen. You're definitely gettin

From what i've gathered, maybe not... I think the most people ever suggest is 1500w. IF you did use that amp, maybe only for short durations. You should be able to tell if it likes to emit a smell when playing.

ahh, you're gonna make me post it, hehe I currently have a stock alt right now and i don't like abusin it with 4500w of amp on tap... The main reason is that the voltage up front rests at 13.5v with the car on. The voltage in the back rests at... the battery's float whish is usuually between 12.9-13.1v Yes, that is a decent voltage drop, i just havent had time to experiment with what's causing it. the system runs through 2 solenoids and 3 separate fuses.

YAY!!! Some news of GooD!!!! lol Audioque messaged me today saying that one of the amps, i'm assuming the Master, has been successfully repaired and tested both independently and in strapped mode and is guaranteed to work. They are not going to send the slave amp back to me, instead they are shipping me a brand new amp that just came in from the factory. It to was just tested again, independently and in strapped mode and is guaranteed to be in working order. I am to assume they will be in next week for sure, hopefully by next tues\wed. If all goes well... we will have ourselves some extensive power testing!!! ALL Power tests will be posted in a separate thread so this log doesnt get overrun with questions and comments about the results. They will each be ran independently but will be level matched and tested at moderate volume to test for matched output. If the output is slightly different, it will be posted in the thread. I'm not gonna meter each amp, it will be understood that the power outputs are similar once i test that out too. So far, for those just waiting for results, the only number i pulled off so far was this- 408w of output @5.39 ohms, 100% clip free at 13.1v. Amp rated for 700w @4ohm with 1%THD at 14.4v. I will be doing VERY extensive testing- We'll be getting the entire impedance curve over the normal playable range for these subwoofers first before we do power testing so i can choose which resistance loads i want to test at. We will be getting power output clip free, and clipped signals in small increments until we reach system fatigue. We will be getting efficiency levels at each chosen resistance load and will record the battery voltage when done so. The test will ONLY be done with the vehicle off to ensure lowest possible voltage test for more real world scenario or more of a worst case scenario. 2 D5100 and 1 D3100 will be powering these tests for a total of 237aH worth of bank. These amps are sustainable down to an incredible 8.5v but will shut off before then so we shouldnt have a low voltage issue, hehe. I'll go ahead and say that i will not be able to test it's 1 ohm rating due to the wiring configuration and impedance curve but am expecting to be able to hopefully get a load as low as 1.3ohms, we are crossing fingers. The test thread is ALSO SPECIFICALLY dedicated to compare the AQ2200ds to the Sundown 1500ds. I'll compare test loads to that amp's tests that fit the matched resistant load and that's it. I want to make a point to show people 2 choices they may have... or will they?

Definitely!!!! We'll tell ya again, since you are comparing a $3,400 amp to a $10,000 amp, if money is no object, make people's mouths just drop when the Warhorse is in your ride. Reading the features on the Warhorse shows that Kicker didn't cut any corners to make this amp capable of potentially producing 10k, they go as far as to say the formers inside are being babied for what it's rated for... Sounds like a reliability winner to me.

IF money were no object, the Kicker by far but u can get 3 maxximus for 1 kicker. There are WAY better choices out there to get to 10KW than these for cheaper. You also gotta look at it this way- You better hope you get some kind of warranty on one of these amps because the repair cost would be ungodly if something really bad were to happen.

I'm pretty sure i helped him fix his problem. I use recovery as a last resort because i view it as a small reinstall of windows if you know what i mean. They won't know everything they're gonna lose until they boot up up days or weeks ago.. We found that an ati system driver was causing error codes and then we had a BSOD where it's error code specifically referenced a driver issue which i originally suspected. So, since he has a Dell and it's new, i told him to remove the driver from device manager and go to ATI's website, not Dell's and retrieve your video driver from them. I always use the manufacturer's drivers, there's only about 100 extra updates for your card compared to the company who built the computer... Turns out, Dell had the wrong driver installed in his system. I can't remember exactly what the exact name of it was but his card was a PRO version and Dell only had the standard driver version in there. He hasn't had any problems since with that.

Could you please explain to us why the RIAA wouldn't go after you for freely distributing copyrighted material or linking to copyrighted material that can be obtained for free? Also, if you were to be subpoenaed, what type of guarantee can you give the members here and at CA that they will also not be subpoenaed because the server keeps logs of all IPs that has used the site or those who have transferred copyrighted material or executed links that are directed to copyrighted material? The server is located in the USA in the state of California so the RIAA has jurisdiction over what is hosted off of that server.

i'm not trying to imply or start anything about companies who don't but is there anything bad about not plugging it? If other cooling methods are in effect for a particular speaker, what is the purpose of NOT plugging the hole if the intentions for the hole for their purpose wasn't for cooling or at least i am to assume it isnt if other cooling options for a speaker are being used.

Jesus Christ, this is a stupid question, lol I had to...

Ah, you were the one who posted all those comments about Stetsom. Thanks for all those. Now, onto the "burp amp" When i first read it, as i stated in the first page, burp amp is just like that Drag Queen which was banned from competition for obvious reasons. Although the Stetsom can't generate tone(s) on it's own nor has a cap or small batt bank like HL's Drag Queen, if it doesnt have the sufficient cooling or durability to be ran for daily, then i can clearly see how a 200A fuse is recommended for a 7kw amp. I would never trust that amp for daily... it just.. no way. After KU40 posted about larger amps pull more power... The next post was a completely turn around of facts when the RF link was posted... implying that larger amps can use this technology... that wasnt a fair comparison. I noticed u mentioned something about a Z1 on stock electrical. That amp is a 5kw amp, there's no way it can hang with a stock electrical if it's pullin 200A minimum. If it's not, then something in the install, whether it be the box, the load on the amp, or electrical wiring, something isn't right to hang with stock electrical for long term use. That comment about the Z1 running off of stock electrical and then... that was pretty much the end of that statement is what threw me off. I know u said not stock anything but seriously, what stock system are we talkin about? Most good stock electricals that we associate with as good are alts ranging between 100-150A and batts.. i dont know how powerful, lets say a D3100 capable. Even that setup wouldnt be strong enough if the Z1 was doin what it is capable of doing. I guess we had 2 different directions we were goin and then.... we got to the intersection and haven't moved since

I know what amp this is. IF you guys don't know i'll let you know later but i have NEVER seen an amp look so .... well confusingly different. I dont know if i should be scared, shocked, surprised or disappointed.

in a sealed enclosure, as long as there are NO AIR LEAKS, you can leave the subsonic filter off or turned all the way down. LPF, that's your choice, most people set it in between 50-90hz. Bass boost - shouldn't have to ever be used. If you do not have an oscope, then just leave it turned off, otherwise you will probably induce clipping at whatever center frequency it's boosted at. If you have an oscope, set the gains on your amp by checking every other frequency to ensure a perfect, flat output. If, at some notes the output starts to roll off, you can set bass boost in that area to recover the output but you won't see this unless u have an oscope.

OK, i'm gonna change the time i expect to repopulate the chat room. I originally said 7pm EST on Wednesday but that's getting to be impossible for me so let's say 7pm EST on Monday. So, next Monday, you better be in there... I think the last time i was in there, i told lilblacky the long story of how i got crazy drunk, lol, good times.

So, you think because RF uses this technology that DD does too? Because it is patented, could you please show proof that RF has licensed the technology to DD? "Hybrid Technology utilizes multiple power sources to achieve current averaging, extreme dynamic power and unparalleled sound quality." The way the RF amp works is a joke really. IT utilizes multiple power sources... Have you ever seen the inside of that amp? IT's just like a bed of caps. What it's doing is pulling power all the time from anywhere, alt and batt. When it doesnt output large amounts of power, it's still pulling large amounts of current just like a cap to build up it's power. "extreme dynamic power" - We don't view power specs by dynamic power because that's peak power, rarely ever see that. This amp does not run like a normal amp. That's why it doesnt "require" an ungodly bank of batts and alts, but IF you have a large ass battery bank, it could get itself charged up to output some devastating power a lot faster than just a stock electrical. Remember, this is a 15KW amp trying to build up it's power off of a stock electrical system, to achieve that power, it would take a while if you're looking for at least 10kw continuous metered.