shizzzon

Ok, i've got some things to say about the SSA Chat that nobody ever goes in... We need to make up a designated time of the day for a certain day of the week unless everyday of the week is fine where we try to flood the chat room so we can get more members here. No other Car audio forum is like SSA and on top of that, i don't recall anyone having an embedded chat service as well.... if there was one... i'd use it. I've been trying to idle in the chat for days but there is some script running that kicks me out after so many hours, lol. So, i'll make up something and everyone else can adjust this since i dont know 5,000 member's schedules... Let's start trying to do this on Wednesday's at 7pm EST. Just come in the chat and flood the hell out of the chat. We get all the frequent members in there, we can get a lot more information exchanged in this place and get to know people better. I was actually in the chat last night talkin to someone for about an hour and he was only a member for a day or two and helped him out quite a bit I believe. So, as of right now, unless someone wants to change the date or add additional dates, Wednesday, July 23rd, 2008 @ 7pm EST is where i'll be so hope to see more, a LOT more of you there as well.

1 more hour... FLOOD THE CHAT!!!

Just metered the setup with my "unknown strict meter" and got a 145.53Db @34hz. I still believe this meter is more strict than the TLAB especially since me, and 3 other people that heard the setup today was so loud that as soon as the bass lines would output full tilt, we all had to get out of the car immediately because the pressure feeling in our ears feels very dangerous... I don't know if it's just the frequency but i also burped it at 49hz and it did the same thing, just not as loud on the meter. I've heard other setups that metered in the mid 140s but never remember any of them causing a feeling that appears to feel like immediate possible hearing damage.

me too... anything below 12 flat in my eyes is a bad install. my measurements consist of using ac dmm and ac ammeter on the outputs of the amps terminals. RMS values only.

I have just finished receiving my impedance curve measurements for my setup design between 20hz-80hz. Here shortly, the graph will be posted here and in a few hrs, me and a buddy are gonna take a trip to an isolated area where we will be measuring output and efficiency and comparing those numbers with the SAZ1500D as i've always wanted to know if the AQ outperforms the Sundown since it's rated to do more power but only at a higher voltage. As of right now, - Impedance curve ranges from 1.76 ohms to 21.6 ohms. DCR is 0.7 ohms So... i will NOT have any measurements below 1.76 ohms and depending on heat buildup, i'm still hoping to pull some numbers out of the AQ below 2.0 ohms as well.

MONDAY @ 7PM EST 8-11-08

hehe, now i see why porn results pop up practically no matter what you search for sometimes... The end of the world has somehow got shifted to sex, lol, it doesnt get any better than that.

Ok guys, after doing extensive testing here is results- AQ2200D is about 82% efficient at 4.08ohms non clipped. We didnt get any other efficiency readings at lower levels as we lost a meter and couldnt read the right voltage that we needed. We did on and off testing for 3.5 hrs doing 3-12 sec burps and then played a 13 min bass track and the subs STILL have not gave off any signs of thermal stress! The AQ HDC3s are a beast when it comes to handling power. These 2 12s are powered by 2 AQ2200Ds. The following is a visual statement and nothing set in concrete- It audibly appears that XMAX rating for the 12s looks to be about 28-33mm. After that range, the sub changed it's quality output and sounded like it went clipped but didnt. As we turned it up some more the sound slowly faded away about 50% and the more it moved, the more it showed it's SPL potential. OK, now back to the amps. In testing, we couldnt never get a load lower than 2.21 ohms!!! AAAHH! Sorry guys but the following tests are done from 4-2.21 ohms only. Comparison- Sundown using 2 batteries stock alt. My setup using 3 batteries and stock alt. Sundown - 4 ohm nominal = 520 watts @ 88% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 14.1v) Me - 4.08 ohm actual = 503w non clipped (voltage fell from 13.0 to 12.6v) 4.29 ohm actual = 587w clipped (voltage fell from 13.0 to 12.5v) Me - 3.25 ohm actual = 781w non clipped (voltage fell from 12.9 to 12.5v) Sundown - 2 ohm nominal = 960 watts @ 84% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 13.7v) Me - 2.57 ohm actual = 966w non clipped (voltage fell from 12.9 to 12.4v) 2.2 ohm actual = 1,114w clipped (voltage fell from 12.7 to 12.3v) So what do we think? The AQ is rated to do power at 14.4v, even though i wasn't that high in voltage, as you can see in the clipped stages, it should definitely exceed it's rating. The amp still is strong is lower voltage levels which is more typical with average charging systems. The AQ amps can run all the way down to 8.5v so there should be no worry about low voltage issues(DO NOT TRY THIS FOR SAFETY SAKE) The amps appear to be just a little less efficient than the sundowns but can pack a damaging punch. I will be getting a Db reading hopefully tomorrow to see what it says.

I want some people's opinion on this so i get a better understanding... So, i have 2 amps(u guys know the ones, hehe) that i need to hook up soon taking for granted they work. Now, this is how i have it, but was told to change it so they both are wired the same but have a question so here it goes. One amp is grounded through the battery bank. The other amp is grounded to the chassis. Why? Because the other amp's ground length was a LOT shorter going directly to chassis. I have always heard do not use no more than 1 meter length of ground... Why? If i use 2/0 power and ground, how far can that cable be ran using ground before a problem(what problem) arises? They told me to take the other amp and run it to the battery bank as well... Well, if i do that, the ground length will be about 41" long. This is definitely longer than the other amp so are they going to perform differently?

Here is the impedance curve- The setup is tuned to peak at 34hz AND 49hz(Fs of car). It's tuned low, around 32hz. We will be getting measurements hopefully within the next couple hrs. If we get em today, i'll try and have the info posted here sometime tonight.

i got em on the batts. I was able to use Knukonceptz Flex wire and was able to get the ground just under 3ft so it's all good now.

Well, i cant get ahold of anybody for tomorrow either so it's lookin bad test-wise... After i eat here shortly, i'm gonna go out there at low volume( in my neighborhood), and find my impedance curve so i know what frequencies to burp at when testing the output of these amps. I'll start a new thread about all this because this has to do with comparing the AQ2200D to the SAZ-1500D.

I have talked to a tech about this and want to know what i should do... I only have 1 sundown 100.4 to work with so there's my power source. I have 2 Image Dynamic CXS65s that are 100wrms components. I also have 2 Image Dynamic CX62s that are 150wrms @2ohm. They are wired to the sundown. I need more midrange... The tweeter level is bout right but i need more midrange, a lot more. CDT said i might wanna try out their new CenterStage kit which consists of 2 2" midrange tweeters mounted on the dash that drastically increases midrange. They have no power rating or ohm load rating so i dont know if i can hook em up to the amp or not... They want $400 for em and i dont know bout all that without specs... They also have a 6.5" component set which is rated to do 160wrms\320w musical peak and am wondering if this set would work perfect on the sundown bridged at 4ohm... I can get this older model for under $250 but their newer model i believe is more than $400. I have no other way of increasing midrange without modifying my doors and i'm leaving that as last resort.

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Everything has just been installed and wired! Everything works!!! Now, i gotta order my 250A alt from Mechman so in the meantime, all play and tests will be done with the car off when ran at full tilt. On a side note, my spoiler is about to fall off now I am now waiting for anybody who is available to help me meter these amps so i can get all of that extensive testing i said i was gonna do done... i just cant get ahold of anybody now...

the rule of thumb is correct, but from experience, it doesnt have to be used as the box size gets bigger and bigger and bigger unless you are also adding more and more and more power. Now, this isn't true 100% of the time but realistically, 8s cant handle as much power as larger speakers can so it throws off the "rule of thumb". You could always go with 1 large slot port.

i think it would. Unless you plan on running 6kw+, i dont think you need that much port area. i cant tell ya whats ideal because i'm workin on gettin my pc back in order after a crash the other day.

i have the front stage high passed at 50hz. They get loud(only if i drive them into partial clipping), and yes, i do need to work on my current install.

UPDATE--- PS - pay no attention to the previous posts, they're irrelevant. Ok, I got the amps back from repair, one was repaired, the other brand new. I have tested each amp myself one at a time and BOTH amps ARE successfully working now. However, there is one thing i'd like to add, it may be nothing because too many variables right now. I tested each amp at 1 ohm using 1 HDC3 in free air because it's out of the box. The repaired amp was making the sub bottom out or sounded like it. That amp was only turned up a little more than the other amp but still yet, it's odd because the HU volume is far from where it usually is.. I know the sub was free-aired so let's pray that it was popping because of that and not because of some "other" amplification problem. I will be redoing most of the wiring tonight and tomorrow so i can run these unstrapped so i should be up and running soon. I did not test them strapped because i no longer want to risk that anymore.

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you are always suppose to use an isolator or some form of it to isolate the front from the rear... 99% of the time, the front battery compared to the rear battery has been installed and used in different durations. Other factors include different float voltages, different technologies, etc.... A solenoid is cheap and they help prevent premature failure.

Oh man.... You made a bad mistake! Sorry to tell ya but didnt you hear bout the Q18s? They've been gettin people addicted to mind numbing bass more than cigarettes! You makin a build log?

One of the 2 amps came back today... I'm not gonna test it because it's been raining all day. Still waiting on the other one so hopefully it'll be here tomorrow. I'm gonna test EACH one at a time to make sure they work before i secure them in the car. The repaired amp is the one that came in today... I will say it "Smells" different, hehe, it smells newer than the new amps, i dont know any other way of sayin it other than that.

isn't that dangerous? No battery likes or can accept LARGE amounts of charging current... If you only have one battery..., if the battery were to ever discharge a fair amount because you are at idle or the car off, when the alts go to send charge current, depending on how long that is, you could damage the battery.

this is the exact same reason why i always try to stay signed in the chat room. NEXT MONDAY @ 7PM EST, Bumrush login of the chatroom begins.

dont use that calculator, it doesnt account for some things.... like sub displacement for one... Anyways, if you dont think it will fit in the trunk, measure the width and depth of the opening in the trunk and post it here. If you want real quick dimensions, i'll find em for ya and tell ya how to cut and build the box. That way after it's built, then you can do your research so you won't have to ask every time u wanna build one.