shizzzon

I am doin some searchin and plan on posting a lot of amps on here with peoples feedback to them and hee is the first to start- Bazooka MGA11500H This amp has been specifically optimized to produce it's most power @2ohms but still be 1ohm stable! What is so good about this is when your impedance curve rises over areas that you wish were louder, this amp will pretty much make that happen. For example - wire a sub to 1 ohm, put it on a 1ohm amp, it will not hit the 1 ohm mark on the amp but on average may hover around 2 ohms. This isn't exact science obviously but you get the picture. So, the specs for this amp- 810w @4ohms 1,550w @2ohms 1,222w @1ohm Comes with advanced protection circuitry to alert users of potential dangers before they happen, strappable, comes with plenty of tuning capabilities and comes with the capability of being water-cooled. Recommended to use 200A fuse per amp. Price - under $200 shipped, Retail - $500 Now... tell me, this sounds too good to be true for the price but what do you guys think? It says it's class H but i have no idea how that compares to D. I'm assumig it's less efficient if it requires a 200A fuse for a 1,550w amp.

This is why i started the thread with a specific model and other replies i've done with specific models as well. This is true, many brands carry crap, ok, decent and great lines. Many of us are used to that. I know that the sundown amps are all basically on the same level of great without questioning but for the models out there that need questioning... that's what this thread is about.

Here is the layout- 258A alt regulated at 14.95v wired directly to factory starting battery. Wire comes off of the starting battery and goes to the rear through solenoid then to 3 batts in the rear. When the stereo system is ran at full tilt for about 2 minutes straight, at one time recently i got a rotten egg smell that came from inside the engine bay but only under high amperage demands. Local Auto Zone fears that since the alt is ran to the starting battery first before it reaches the rear batts and amps is that it may be overcharging the starting battery. We felt the terminals onthe starting batery and they were scorching hot. So... for those who have setup high powered electrical systems before.... Is it ok if i run 1 cable from the alt to the starting battery then another cable off the same point from the alt to the rear battery bank? If the amps pull excessive current, the alt should disperse that current only through the wire that is running to the rear right? Does that sound like what i have to do?

they are all AGM. the 3 in the rear are all XS power batts. The bat up front is factory agm battery. ALL 4 batts float at 13.0 with car off. There is a solenoid in the rear which isolates the front batt from the rear.

well, i know i'm outputting more current than you are alternator-wise... Even though i cant prove the smell came from the batt, i do know that the terminals were scorching hot and that leads me to believe probable cause of excessive current. They told me that even if the batt is 100% charged, it can still be overcharged. I thought overcharged was just too high of voltage but they're telling me it can\is overcharg(ed\ing) from excessive current as well. I really need to find out for sure if thats what is goin on but all the shops are closed til monday. I gotta be bassless for a couple days to prevent possible battery failure.

You guys are idiots... why would you post this? hehe, Yea this place is great.

i take it they never caught who did it? I'd be leary if they haven't been caught.

for even better expectations, build the box on the small side. Typically, a smaller box will have a higher rise. As long as your calculations are right about it being final at 1.34ohms on a 2 ohm stable amp, i wouldnt see a problem. Thing is, if it does like to dip around 2.1 or so and stay there for long term bass output, like constant bass, it can possibly end up stressin the amp too much if you know what i mean, too close to it's limit. You should be able to tell though if the amp ever starts to get extremely hot.

Looking at another one- Autotek SS1900.1D 1000w @ 4ohm 1500w @ 2ohm 1900w @ 1ohm Price - Under $400 JBL GTO14001 1200w @ 4ohm 1500w @ 2ohm Price - under $400

I dont think so. I believe you are seeing the power and ground connections. Those terminals that are on the alt appear to be welding cable style terminals if that's suppose to be 1/0. If it is dual output.. then there is no ground connection anywhere else on the alt... So, i seriously doubt it.

4 ohm stability on a 2 ohm load is WAY different than 1.34 DCR on 2 ohm stability. There is a good chance that you will be fine, like almost 100%. Most 2ohm coils are 1.4\1.5 ohms.

UPDATE- Got the car in the shop and will be picking it back up tomorrow. In the meantime, i looked at the box that it came in and realized that a lot of paperwork came with the alternator that i looked over. So, when purchasing an alternator from MechMan, here is what to expect- It comes with your invoice stating their location, phone number, fax number and a copy of your order and invoice number. The next paper- This is a MUST for anyone. When you buy an alternator from Mechman, they give you a rundown of all the Do's and Don'ts on how to operate your alternator. It is VERY informative and if followed will keep your alt and car in top running performance. The next paper- Test results- This paper shows the tests that the alternator went through with results to show you exactly what your alternator is capable of doing in your vehicle. Below is 2 RPM readings that you wil see that each test was taken. The test paper shows the actual alternator rpm but to prevent you from doin the math, i already did it for you so u can just read this and drool, hehe. All of the following rpm numbers have been converted for Engine speed. There are 2 engine speed rpms given. The 1st engine speed is using a 3:1 pulley ratio. The 2nd is using a 3.5:1 pully ratio. If you do not know what yours is, just go by the 3:1 as that is pretty standard for a large array of vehicles. 533\457 - 36.2A 600\514 - 69.0A 667\571 - 100.7A 833\714 - 154.4A 1000\857- 185.9A 1333\1143-219.2A 1667\1429-240.8A 2000\1714-254.0A 2333\2000-257.9A 2667\2286-256.6A Alternator rated at 250A Maximum Current - 257.9A Maximum Watts - 3,159w Turn on Speed - 272 RPM Zero Output Speed - 431 RPM Voltage Set Point - 14.957v Voltage Set Point at Double Load - 14.869v Voltage Set Point at Maximum Speed - 15.012v Voltage Set Point After Load Test - 14.737v Requested Load Test Voltage - 13.400v Actual Load Test Voltage - 12.252v Stator Voltage at Load Voltage - 0.132v Field Current - 0.007A Leakage Current - 0.36mA (0.00036A) Leakage Current After Load Test - 0.32mA (0.00032A) Ripple Current at 2500 RPM - 58A Lamp Voltage at Stop Condition - 2.764v Lamp Voltage During Test - 13.799v Pulley Ratio - 1.514 Rectifier Voltage Drop - 2.8v Here are some pics of the alternator - This is a picture of my current STOCK ALTERNATOR. I will have pics of the new one installed when i get it back tomorrow.

ya, i can say it was TL all day long but we aint goin there with that debate again... I've been patiently waiting for over a year, lol, to do a comparison with this mic vs the TL... until then, i dont know what to say.

You want to know what it does or what they say? They say it does around 150A at idle but i could have swore that it was rated to do around 112A at idle. Disregard the numbers though, i'll find out for sure when i clamp it after installation. Oh, and full tilt meaning it's maximum output which should be 1700-2000 RPM engine.

yea, the same thing pretty much happened to me when i got a refurb-ed 100.4 from db-r. All i was doin was unscrewing the speaker terminal screws and putting them in place. I already had the power and ground connected. At some point while unscrewing, the screwdriver touched the case and SPARKS!! I immediately pulled the screw driver away and called db-r and that's what he told me... So i wrapped up the screwdriver and held it as far away from the case as possible and it never sparked again. Works fine too.. actually too fine,

You thought my build log was over? You're wrong. Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha!!! lol I just got my Alt in from Mechman. I told them i would do a nice review of it so stay tuned for pics and performance readings from it. It is rated @ 250A. I ordered it Thursday over the phone. They build per order for my car. Was built, tested, shipped and received the following Tuesday. I highly rated performance tuning shop in my area is going to be installing it as they have first hand experience with my 07 Scion tC. I called 2 other stores and this is what they said about installing it for me- Store 1- No, we don't install other people's alts... My thoughts - apparently you are intimidated or not experienced enough to trust yourself. Store 2- An 07.. what? No.. I've never heard of your car... We can't do it, it's too new... My Thoughts- Quit your job... I'm gonna try to get it installed either this weekend or early next week. Pics by then for sure, hopefully sooner.

Hey Scott, do you still do this for people? I'm researching elternatives for boosting the amount of power i have in my car as i need maximum power at 2 ohms as my impedance curve shows that wired at 0.7 ohms, my lowest drop at full tilt is 2.21 ohms but at moderate levels, the rise drops down to 1.76 ohms so i would need an amp that is lenient or 1 ohm stable as you can see. I know that you have modded these amps before and am sure that even if the procedure isn't 100% full proof, i shouldnt be stressin it as much as my rise is just a hair below the 2ohm threshold. I'm still unsure on what amps to get for certain but this sparked my interest. 4,000w @ 2ohm total is beneficial but i noticed they do 3,600w and i would need 2 of these for 2 Audioque HDC3s. I'm not interested in doing it soon or at all, just curious if you still offer to do this, that's all.

Yes, this is the best option i prefer too. This lets you play EVERYTHING. You have all the available codecs required to play videos\audio and lets you play quicktime and realmedia in mpc and since mpc is so basic, it's so fast loading and is easy to pull specs off of video files such as res ans fps when doing transcoding.

well, the most obvious would be a voltage drop. Regardless of your electrical system get yourself back there with a DMM and watch the voltage while somone else turns on sometin to cause it to go out. Also look at the amp to see if it shuts off or goes into protect as well.. and what the voltage is at the batt when it happens.

MOST of the optis do rated power.... barely but i would run them if i had em. The Opti2000d did 1,940 somethin watts @0.5 ohm which is just shy of it's 2000w rating. The Opti6000D however which is rated for 6,000w @1ohm 14.4v didn't even break 5,000w so i'm wondering if the 4000d is really as powerful as they say. I know the 4000d shared the same board as the 6,500w Soundstream so it prob does it's power then, must be the 6000d which is a lie... How in the world did you get a 4000d for $300? You can't even get a used, refurbished broken amp for that price. Seriously though, that amp should be put on the BTLs, not the SSD unless you wanna run 4 of them.

the only way you are going to filter out frequencies and have the sub play a different range than the comps is to use passive crossovers. If there is another way when running in tri-mode... then it must me new to me. Running an EQ before the amp will result in all speakers being effected by the EQ's settings.

i always use 0db tones when setting up amps. Since music rarely ever reaches the levels of actual tones, it's easy to see how your equipment is safe from such scenarios, especially tones themself since that's what i use to setup the amps. I actually used the subsonic filter for my previous install to set the visual Xmech spec of my setup which is rated for ~80mm Peak-2-Peak. Tuned to peak at 34hz, subsonic is set at 26hz and guarantees that it will not move past xmech... or will not damage the sub that is from over-excursion. Ever since i've owned an o-scope, i've never had a single piece of damaged equipment, a very recommended piece of equipment.

What is everyone's thoughts about the 2011-2013 timeline? In case you have no idea what i am referring to, please do your own research so you have your own opinion about the year 2012, Dec 21. A good place to start is - http://www.diagnosis2012.co.uk/1.htm Not only is there predictions but some actual facts about severe environmental conditions that will change this world forever including us loosing the electromagnetic field that protects us, the sun getting hotter, the Comet Swift-Turtle which has been confirmed by NASA to appear once again in our solar system which is 3x the size of Jupiter which is headed for us in the end of 2012. I don't believe it is predicted to hit us but it's passing can\could cause major damage to earth. The word Annihilation is brought up more than once... I don't expect it to be the end as neither do a lot of others either. This is suppose to be a change, a Major shift point in our history. The real question is what will happen? We are due for an ice age, the Mayan Calendar ends in that yea, scientists say that we are about to enter the fourth density at the end of that year which in what they say- "Laws of Physics will be transformed forever." Like many others, the end has been predicted a LOT and of course has never been right but what if a list of things were presented to you that stated that the end is not being predicted here and not by a prophecy but a multitude of things including FACTS from NASA, scientists, nuclear physicist(if you read the entire website above) that many things ALL point to the end of 2012 as something bad or major happening. They reference the "Second Coming". Christians believe the "Second Coming" is a being returning to Earth when in fact scientists state that different religions will alter what the future has in store for us to come... The "Second Coming" is not to be interpreted as a being returning but as a "State of Being" coming or returning when that time has come. State of being is a shift point on Earth. I can type and type and type about this forever but that website has a LOT of info about it. Don't just stick to one site such as that, keep searching. Even the Philadelphia Experiment, Montank Project are involved which include references to the "greys", a VERY interesting read and if it's true, it's gonna be a wild world soon.

at what note? not enough info to compare, bud. I'm suppose to be tuned about 10hz higher than i am but this is not for competition. This is tuned to almost 30hz AND was specifically built to peak at the driver's headrest. To prove a point, i only scored a 143 next to the windshield and the kick. Sure, i could easily break a 150 but this is for daily driving, not comp. This build is focused on a whole other vision.

It's TIME!!!! CHAT FLOODING...