shizzzon

i guess it's ok to post this. Retails for $649 Call them and inquire about a $50 discount. I bought mine during group buy so the price i paid isn't what you will pay.

I just found out what happened. When i was at work, the generator was running... Something funy happened and caught a couple wall sockets on fire. A day later, when we received power, this is when i found all my things destroyed. Now, i have one question. If i had a line conditioner plugged in, would it have prevented anything from getting damaged? Not everything got damaged though.. As a matter of fact, the sockets that caught fire had protectors on them. some other protectors still work, another one got fried, some things on some protectors work, others dont.

i have no idea what MOV-based is but they are all about 8 yrs old, carried $250,000 insurance.... i dont have receipts for any of them.

where r u located at? And r u sure that is what you are hearing too? That sounds very odd for any speaker to bottom out just because you are driving faster. Your rpms generally would be the same on the highway, just more steady. More wind is happening so more things move and more sounds appear.... may not be speakers. Extra vibrations could be causing a speaker short and you are hearing speakers pop due to a loose connection. You listen to a lot of hip POP and that is what's causing it, lol There's some ideas.

do an audible test, that'll let you find the xmax for sure. Pick a test tone that is definitely lower than tuning, something that'll unload the subs for sure. Start it with the subsonic filter turned all the way down and the volume on the stereo all the way down too. Have yourself next to the subs and have someone else start slowly turning up the headunit. You will eventually hear the subs surpass the xmax range when the sound of the subs sound like they went clipped or they all of a sudden start to emit a odd loud mechanical noise. Once you hear that, turn it back down til it stops, that should be their xmax. If this is purely an all out quality install, make sure your excursion doesn't surpass xmax and that you do not clip your signal either and you will be in good shape.

you probably need some PA subs since that bus is so much bigger than a normal vehicle.

don't do it. As stated before,it would require modification to the rear deck which will weaken the rear structure. You could do 1 21 without cutting the rear deck but now you still have the problem of everything getting damaged in the long run. I've damaged a Catalytic Converter... 3x in the same car a few years ago due to the excessive low end from a stereo install. IF you don't know you've damaged it, it can cause severe breathing issues for your engine. I have another car's transmission fail in the long run that i blame the stereo system for. So much horsepower was lost in this 4 cylinder i had a long, long, long time ago that it struggled to switch gears.

your mom vs my mom

in my experience, if you are looking for nice quality sound, a 1000-1500w amp per HDC3 is perfect. Anything higher, you'll probably go outside of the linear movement. They can take upwards of around 3k per sub but at these levels, you aren't worried about linear response.

it is recommended to break them in at moderate power levels for 8-10 hrs of use. They can take an ungodly amount of power.

No, i use XS Powermasters. I would use Lifeline but they are just a little big bigger than what i could fit in my car.

hehe, if u want to know kille batts... Check out Lifeline batteries. Their Group 8D is rated for 255aH and i can get those batts for around $400. They float around 13.2-13.4v and can burst from 1100 to 1900 CA from 0 to 68 degrees so perfect for daily bumpin. They weigh about 165 lbs per batt but are the best price to performance spec-wise i have ever seen.

Ok, just go tback with the test results and here they are as follows- When car is sitting at idle, full blast constant bass, the voltage drops 1.1v from rest point. When car is revved to 2700rpm, full blast constant bass, the voltage drops 0.9v from rest point. What does that mean? IF your regulator currently read 14.9v, while driving at full tilt, you would still have worse-case scenario, 14.0v and thats with constant amperage draw from lil jon songs, for example. IF you were at idle at 14.9v blastin it with the same type of songs, worse-case scenario would drop you down to 13.8v. That is still higher than the float voltage of the batts so that's all alternator powering that current demand. We didnt measure it just now but when i set these amps up via o-scope, me and a friend started to do current measurements so i could get an idea of how much power i was lookin at. Because i have high rise i nmy box, the current isnt that great from 5,000w worth of amps but the following is interesting for the alternator from what you now know above. The most power we were able to get out of the amps clipped to hell and back in my application was about 182 amps. So, that tells me than with 182A of draw...., PLUS whatever current my sundown 100.4 draws...., PLUS the amount of current my car draws while running... the alt can still handle it without it dipping into the batts. That's a Hoss.

thats what i use. It's a switch. When it is switched off, (no 12v power source such as ignition), anything that is wired before and after it is isolated from each other. So in my instance- My stock batt up front is isolated from my 3 batts in the rear. When it gets a 12v power source to turn on, everything wired before and after it is seen together. For batts, it is to allow the alternator to charge all batts at once. the terminals up top can be wired in almost any order so i'll break it down for ya. You got 2 large posts and 2 small posts. The 2 large posts are power in, power out. Either one is in and out. The 2 small posts are 12v turn on via ignition and the other is ground. Again, anyone of those 2 that you choose can either be turn on, or ground. When wiring in series and\or parallel, each solenoid is independent so you can always choose with pair of posts shoudl be used for whatever purpose.

sure i dont care i'll pm you my phone number.

i cant answer what voltage i drop to because i need 2 people for that and cant never get 2 people, me being 1, at a convenient time to test that out. My electrical- Stock battery up front. Powermaster- 2 D5100s 1 D3100 1 250A Mechman alt The idle output varies because if there is a need for charging at idle, the voltage will boost to 14.9v. If there is no load present, it will idle at 14.0v. I already posted it's current capabilities at engine speeds above. I know you want the voltage drop but because it's so loud, i have to drive very far away to find that out and doing that plus finding somebody is an obstacle.

They aren't some small company. They are big business.

Well, so far, When all the batteries are charged, i get a steady 14.0 voltage. When any batt needs to be charged or if current is being demanded for the stereo system, the voltage sets at 14.9v. The batts are keeping charged like they should be and i can run both of my 2200ds and my 100.4 for as long as i want to without worry.

Those Immortals are not designed to be used for music for one so it will sound terrible. The original immortals are a different story. The power ratings Audiobahn gives is musical peak power. This means, do not put more than a 2200w amp on it unclipped.

that's not 70w. You have no idea what the output current is. Anyway, why don't you measure the DC voltage coming in rather than the output... The output has nothing to do with your protection issue if all you have is a DMM. Secondly, what is the DCR value at the speaker leads?

I would have recommended more but in my experience, if they do not make an alt for your vehicle, they can probably tell you who can. They were the only legitimate business that makes an alt for my car. Powermaster is limited on the vehicles that they do. They are the ones who actually referred me to them. Ohio Generator is a big company but if Mechman doesn't do it, i'm sure they won't either. OG told me straight up that they did not know how to build an alt for my car but i found someone who did, Mechman. HO Alternator is another big company. Then you have others that aren't as big - Excessive Amperage Mr Alternator Mean Green Mechman does deal with imports a lot so out of the country requirements are a plus for you.

www.mechman.com

That's interesting to know.

wow, i feel like a genius, can i be moderator? hehe

I'm surprised nobody caught this but he said they hooked this amp up at 1ohm and it sounded the same as a kicker 1500... Kicker 1500 is only stable to 2ohm so he had to have it wired at 4ohm which is rated for practically the same power so he actually conned himself if that's true, lol. And besides, you do not know what the impedance curve is in this design he is testing. You can go out and get a 10,000w amp and in some cases, it may only put out 2,000w if the resistance is high enough. The only way to see true power is with meters, not by ear.